UPS with PSU

[Snapcrackl3pop9]

I need help figuring out if my computer will be alright with using a UPS. I've been trying to find one but have been reading a lot of the sine wave. I've heard some people have no problems with pure sine wave and some have problems. I've heard some people have problems with step approximated sine wave and some don't. and this list goes on. I'm looking at getting a APC br1500g (link will be at the bottom of the post) and this UPS uses a stepped approximated sine wave from what I've read in the review section. In my computer currently i have a EVGA supernova 650GS 80+ gold PSU (link will be at the bottom of the post). I've heard some people say as long as you have a quality PSU you shouldn't have any problems at all such as buzzing/humming when running off the battery or the computer shutting down.

Could someone knowledgeable in this area let me know if these will work together?

http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-Back-UPS-10-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU?ie=UTF8&keywords=apc%201500&qid=1462980848&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Continuous-Crossfire-220-GS-0650-V1/dp/B00UVN20AO

 

[Rogue Leader]

Active PFC PSU's require pure sine wave UPS's. Your PSU is Active PFC so you should be getting a sine wave UPS. Problem is in the switching to battery power, the PFC power correction freaks out because of the change in power delivery and flicks the system off in an attempt to prevent damage.

You should look at this model:

http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462981623&sr=8-1&keywords=cyberpower+sine+wave

I have the same one at home its excellent and works properly in a power loss situation.

 

[grimfox]

No. That UPS does NOT have a sine wave output. It might work or it might work for a little while and then catch your PSU on fire. I'm not comfortable with a might in a power reliability device. Anyone who has problems with a pure sine wave UPS has problems with the power draw not the pure sine wave. If they had problems with a pure sine wave then they would have problems with the power coming out of their wall too. I will say that device is apporpriately sized for your power supply. So you need to find something with a similar power rating but with a pure sine wave output.

 

[Snapcrackl3pop9]

No. That UPS does NOT have a sine wave output. It might work or it might work for a little while and then catch your PSU on fire. I'm not comfortable with a might in a power reliability device. Anyone who has problems with a pure sine wave UPS has problems with the power draw not the pure sine wave. If they had problems with a pure sine wave then they would have problems with the power coming out of their wall too. I will say that device is apporpriately sized for your power supply. So you need to find something with a similar power rating but with a pure sine wave output.

that's why i wanted clarification. I don't like maybes. Especially since my computer is expensive.

 

[Snapcrackl3pop9]

Active PFC PSU's require pure sine wave UPS's. Your PSU is Active PFC so you should be getting a sine wave UPS. Problem is in the switching to battery power, the PFC power correction freaks out because of the change in power delivery and flicks the system off in an attempt to prevent damage.

You should look at this model:

http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462981623&sr=8-1&keywords=cyberpower+sine+wave

I have the same one at home its excellent and works properly in a power loss situation.

I might be going with the bigger version of the model you shared unless i can find a similar spec one for cheaper.
Have you tried running your computer full load and unplugging the UPS from the wall to see if there are any hiccups?

 

[Rogue Leader]

Active PFC PSU's require pure sine wave UPS's. Your PSU is Active PFC so you should be getting a sine wave UPS. Problem is in the switching to battery power, the PFC power correction freaks out because of the change in power delivery and flicks the system off in an attempt to prevent damage.

You should look at this model:

http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462981623&sr=8-1&keywords=cyberpower+sine+wave

I have the same one at home its excellent and works properly in a power loss situation.

I might be going with the bigger version of the model you shared unless i can find a similar spec one for cheaper.
Have you tried running your computer full load and unplugging the UPS from the wall to see if there are any hiccups?

As a matter of fact I have!

The computer did not even notice it was disconnected (well other than the software which knows to force shut down after 5 minutes).

That said yes make sure you get enough wattage to cover your use. Even for when you are not on battery. For example I have the 1000va/600w one, my psu is 750 but my system draws at max about 650ish. Even when plugged into the wall if you go over 600 watts it doesn't like it, Cyberpower and APC both confirmed you need to match the unit to your draw. It never shut down on me, but it gives some very loud warning beeps.

I searched for a while this is the cheapest pure sine wave unit I could find. Everything else was more money, but this still has good reviews too.

 

[Snapcrackl3pop9]

Active PFC PSU's require pure sine wave UPS's. Your PSU is Active PFC so you should be getting a sine wave UPS. Problem is in the switching to battery power, the PFC power correction freaks out because of the change in power delivery and flicks the system off in an attempt to prevent damage.

You should look at this model:

http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462981623&sr=8-1&keywords=cyberpower+sine+wave

I have the same one at home its excellent and works properly in a power loss situation.

I might be going with the bigger version of the model you shared unless i can find a similar spec one for cheaper.
Have you tried running your computer full load and unplugging the UPS from the wall to see if there are any hiccups?

As a matter of fact I have!

The computer did not even notice it was disconnected (well other than the software which knows to force shut down after 5 minutes).

That said yes make sure you get enough wattage to cover your use. Even for when you are not on battery. For example I have the 1000va/600w one, my psu is 750 but my system draws at max about 650ish. Even when plugged into the wall if you go over 600 watts it doesn't like it, Cyberpower and APC both confirmed you need to match the unit to your draw. It never shut down on me, but it gives some very loud warning beeps.

I searched for a while this is the cheapest pure sine wave unit I could find. Everything else was more money, but this still has good reviews too.

The surge part of the UPS is just a pass through right? If it is would it matter how much I'm pulling from the wall? Like the UPS i might be getting is 810watts, could i run more than that on the surge side of the unit? Or is that for the whole unit itself?

 

[Rogue Leader]

The surge part of the UPS is just a pass through right? If it is would it matter how much I'm pulling from the wall? Like the UPS i might be getting is 810watts, could i run more than that on the surge side of the unit? Or is that for the whole unit itself?

Right only the battery side is limited even on wall power, the surge side can take whatever (but TBH what else could you possibly be hooking up that will draw that much power?)

 

[Snapcrackl3pop9]

The surge part of the UPS is just a pass through right? If it is would it matter how much I'm pulling from the wall? Like the UPS i might be getting is 810watts, could i run more than that on the surge side of the unit? Or is that for the whole unit itself?

Right only the battery side is limited even on wall power, the surge side can take whatever (but TBH what else could you possibly be hooking up that will draw that much power?)

I got a lot of stuff in my room. but what I'm super worried about is my computer since its on all the time since I run a server for family and friends. But if everything running off the same socket at whatever the max it can draw would probably be 1800+ (maybe i might not be accurate) watts. That's just what I got based off the specs online for everything I use. But realistically I'm probably drawing 500 watts average.

 

[Rogue Leader]

The surge part of the UPS is just a pass through right? If it is would it matter how much I'm pulling from the wall? Like the UPS i might be getting is 810watts, could i run more than that on the surge side of the unit? Or is that for the whole unit itself?

Right only the battery side is limited even on wall power, the surge side can take whatever (but TBH what else could you possibly be hooking up that will draw that much power?)

I got a lot of stuff in my room. but what I'm super worried about is my computer since its on all the time since I run a server for family and friends. But if everything running off the same socket at whatever the max it can draw would probably be 1800+ (maybe i might not be accurate) watts. That's just what I got based off the specs online for everything I use. But realistically I'm probably drawing 500 watts average.

So yeah on the battery side just keep your PC and monitor, and then plug whatever else into the rest.

 

[Snapcrackl3pop9]

The surge part of the UPS is just a pass through right? If it is would it matter how much I'm pulling from the wall? Like the UPS i might be getting is 810watts, could i run more than that on the surge side of the unit? Or is that for the whole unit itself?

Right only the battery side is limited even on wall power, the surge side can take whatever (but TBH what else could you possibly be hooking up that will draw that much power?)

I got a lot of stuff in my room. but what I'm super worried about is my computer since its on all the time since I run a server for family and friends. But if everything running off the same socket at whatever the max it can draw would probably be 1800+ (maybe i might not be accurate) watts. That's just what I got based off the specs online for everything I use. But realistically I'm probably drawing 500 watts average.

So yeah on the battery side just keep your PC and monitor, and then plug whatever else into the rest.

Alright. Cool. Thanks for the help.