[SOLVED] Very high temperatures on Ryzen 5 2600x. 104 degrees.

[gazza1988]

Hi, many apologies, this is likely to be long

First off I'll get the specs out of the way (Pcpartpicker link to current build if more info needed)
MSI B450 tomohawk motherboard (default BIOS except x-amp is enabled and the 3000hz memory is set to 2933hz)
Ryzen 5 2600x cpu with stock wraith spire cooler
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB GAMING OC Video Card
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory (cmk16gx4m2b3000c15)
EVGA GQ 750 W PSU

Because this is related to temps the case is on the desk next to me but is sideways on. By that I mean the tempered glass window points out to the room and there isa good gap between the wall and the front fans and the rear fan just blows out into the room. My case came with 3 fans on the front and 1 on the back.

Note: In the link to pcpartpicker it also shows Hypex ram, I took these out a few weeks ago which reset bios to stock settings)


All of the items are 2 years old (bought May 2019 and were new parts)

RIght so onto the issue.

I used dragon centre alot. I purposefully use the silent option because my PC will not shut up otherwise it locks the cpu to 3.2ghz and fan speed to 20%. During games dragon centre will swap to "extreme performance" which locks the clock to 3.7ghz and fan speed is 100% at all times. Temps are high whilst the kids are on fortnite on "extreme performance" for but only 80-85 degrees high (which isn't that high and well in performance parameters).

Now if I don't use dragon centre and let it "manage itself" like some would say it's supposed to. I get high temps, mainly because the CPU spends 90% of it's time "boosting" to 4.2ghz, even when Idle. I've just watched a youtube video without dragon centre on and my temps, with 4 chrome tabs open and "CPUID HWMonitor" running in foreground, is at 61 degrees which for me is a bit high for a system like mine to only have youtube on. My fan is running at 100% to keep it in the high 50s on temps. I'd doing nothing but type this out.

What prompted me to possibly look into it was earlier when temps hit 99 degrees whilst fortnite was on. I then had the game on again and max temp hit 104 degrees on HWMonitor.

2 days ago I suffered a crash, not a BSOD but the cpu warning light came on with blank screen on my monitor. I turned the PC off using the power button and pressed it again to turn on and the PC booted fine. Immediately loaded dragon centre ( has built in hardware monitor) and the temps were in the mid 80s and dropping.

I have read that the hardware monitoring app I'm using misreports clock speeds but it is currently reporting that my lowest clock speed on the CPU is 2000mhz-2936mhz as minimum (6 cores) and the maximum is 5303mhz on 5 out of 6 cores with the other core hitting 4809mhz maximum.

So apparently I'm overclocking this CPU to ridiculous levels. Like I said I read that it reports incorrect levels so it may not actually be that. Having said that though the maximum voltage is 1.5v on one core so maybe I am. at present my core voltage is 1.431v and fluctuates between that and 1.413v, at Idle still typing this out.


Does anyone have any idea what is wrong? I'm gonna swap to dragon centre now (as I typed it) onto extreme performance. The clock is fixed to 3701mhz and fan is fixed to 100%. the temps dropped to 49 degrees in about 2 seconds (was at 62 when I swapped over). Switch to silent mode (The fan FINALLY shut up) and temps went down to 46 degrees after a minute.

I've got some thermal paste left so I was considering replacing that. I was also considering upgrading the CPU cooler as well.

Steps taken.

1. Panic
2. google
3. Post here....

Joking, I've done a virus/malware scan (only used kaspersky and malwarebytes though) and really cannot think of anything else to do apart from change the paste which has been sat in my drawer for 2 years (noctua NT-H1) which is borderline useable so may just buy more new?

 

[gazza1988]

Oh...well...it's too late I guess to do much about it but.... that case looks to be the poster child of what not to do for proper ventilation.

First is the solid front panel...and top panel! Then the very narrow side vents. That's just not going to breathe easily, you'll need all 7 fans blowing pretty hard to ventilate it well. That's got to be a big reason you have a CPU temp problem too since the tiny Wraithe cooler is doomed to using the hot air from that fire-breathing 2080super to cool the CPU while gaming. Air coolers can only work well if the case is well ventilated.

A liquid cooler is definitely your best choice, on the front pulling in as much cool air across it as possible when the CPU gets hot. Three fans on top, a fourth in the rear to suck all the hot air out they can. The big advantage a liquid cooler offers comes down to simple physics: water has enormous capacity to take on heat. Even with poor airflow across the radiator you might get a couple hours before CPU temps begin to rise up to where they do pretty quickly now (10-15 min's?). Hopefully you'll get enough airflow across the radiator that it won't at all since you have a 2600x CPU.

I can remove that front panel, I'll link the photo ( I tried adding as image but it was huge on the screen) apologies for the glare from the now exposed lighting.
Link to view photo

I've left it like that for around half an hour and minimum temps have dropped by 1.6 degrees but are still middling around 50 degrees or so.

I had forgotten about that panel coming off. It is filthy behind those vents like it looks grey until I run my finger over it and it turns black. That wont help matters either.

I don't think I can remove the top panel due to the power button and USB ports.

 

[drea.drechsler]

...
I've left it like that for around half an hour and minimum temps have dropped by 1.6 degrees but are still middling around 50 degrees or so.
...

That's helping probably because it's pushing a little more cool air into the case, but it still has to be extracted. Do you have any fans at the top and/or back? I'd try moving at least one fan there to help extract the hot air, two fans in both locations (two in front blowin in/two in back and top rear blowing out) to balance things out.

 

[gazza1988]

I have a rear fan. I only have space for 1 rear fan. I do have space for up to 3 in the top, but there is nothing there at the moment.

 

[gazza1988]

I cleaned out that front panel. Re attached it and temps seem to be lower than before (I mean before I took the front off and cleaned it).

We are talking 1 - 2 degrees warmer with the front on as opposed to off. I'll keep the front on, there's nothing stopping dust and whatever else getting inside the case with it off, except the fan blades.

It's gone midnight where I am now so I'm just gonna leave it idling overnight and see what max/min/average temp it gets to overnight.

I do have an old cooler master cosmos s case but that thing is huge and not practical for the space I have.



I'm contemplating reinstalling windows. I've just had a culminative update and whenever I've had an update to the operating system (not on drivers or net framework etc) my stem slows down and games refuse to open and give error codes. The error code is a corrupt install. I run sfc /scannow and it finds and fixes integrity violations then I can play games (online multiplayer games, I assume a anti cheat system?) after every update I have to do this. Tonight I did a scan before updating and it found no error. I update then restart and it finds an issue. I know I'm in cpu section but thought I'd ask while I remember.

 

[drea.drechsler]

....
I'm contemplating reinstalling windows. I've just had a culminative update and whenever I've had an update to the operating system (not on drivers or net framework etc) my stem slows down and games refuse to open and give error codes.
...

Updates have caused problems in the past, but not like those and not so consistently. I'd agree that a fresh install is probably advised. But before that you might try doing a repair install with in-place upgrade here's instructions for how to do it. it's not really hard and avoids having to re-install apps and games and settings. And I've almost always had SFC /scannow find and fix corruption after a major update (I assume this was the 21H1 update? type winver in cortana search to check that) so I tend to think it's pretty common.

I think you'd want to run with the case front on too. It's the look that you paid for, after all. Getting an AIO is going to be your best option for upgraded cooling; along with more fans, rear and top to exhaust. Avoid tucking it away in a cubby or corner where it's not getting fresh cool air as that just makes it worse, and keep it dusted out. Blowing it out with the shop vac every month or so should do that nicely.

 

[gazza1988]

I have been backing up all my data and downloaded installers for all my apps and I'm ready to fresh install windows. With your recommendation to avoid dragon centre and remove it from my system. I only uninstalled it by right clicking and clicking "uninstall" and reset CMOS. would a repair install remove all traces of the program or would a fresh install (which I have prepared for) work out better.

Thinking about it my OS was on the sandisk SSD and I copied it to the WD m2 drive I have, Could that be part of the updates being iffy, it was 14 months ago though so perhaps not?

I searched my case and saw someone had a r5 3600, arctic freezer 34 esports duo and bought 3 arctic P12 PWM PST 120 mm case fans and put them on the front moving the existing ones currently on the front to the top to exhaust the air. They get 60 degrees when gaming, Obviously they could live in the arctic circle for all I know where ambient temps are somewhat lower. Also they could just be lying.

Temps wise, since cleaning that front panel I reset the values in hwinfo and the pc has been on every since. min is 44.8 and max is 76.5 and average of 52.1 degrees. I have not ran a game on it yet though just loads of tabs locating drivers etc for reinstalling windows.

I can't tell what fans they are in the front, I know they are msi but no idea if they are any good.

That link my mate sent me for the masterliquid isn't working. is there any others at a similar price point that would work? £50-60-ish.

 

[drea.drechsler]

I have been backing up all my data and downloaded installers for all my apps and I'm ready to fresh install windows. With your recommendation to avoid dragon centre and remove it from my system. I only uninstalled it by right clicking and clicking "uninstall" and reset CMOS. would a repair install remove all traces of the program or would a fresh install (which I have prepared for) work out better.

Thinking about it my OS was on the sandisk SSD and I copied it to the WD m2 drive I have, Could that be part of the updates being iffy, it was 14 months ago though so perhaps not?

I searched my case and saw someone had a r5 3600, arctic freezer 34 esports duo and bought 3 arctic P12 PWM PST 120 mm case fans and put them on the front moving the existing ones currently on the front to the top to exhaust the air. They get 60 degrees when gaming, Obviously they could live in the arctic circle for all I know where ambient temps are somewhat lower. Also they could just be lying.

Temps wise, since cleaning that front panel I reset the values in hwinfo and the pc has been on every since. min is 44.8 and max is 76.5 and average of 52.1 degrees. I have not ran a game on it yet though just loads of tabs locating drivers etc for reinstalling windows.

I can't tell what fans they are in the front, I know they are msi but no idea if they are any good.

That link my mate sent me for the masterliquid isn't working. is there any others at a similar price point that would work? £50-60-ish.

I'm really not sure of dragon center as I didn't install it...ever...on my MSI boards. But, I did make the mistake of letting the install of Armoury Crate proceed on my new Asus board and regretted it. It's extremely intrusive with a large number of services that install and won't uninstall without another special app that I only found out about on their forums. Even then, it left behind hooks...there's even one in the BIOS that makes the OS 'phone home' to Asus, not MS, to check on updates for their apps. That is scary, at least there's a BIOS setting to turn that off but it should be off by default.

So, if that's any guide I'd say a fresh install is the best way to make certain there are no dregs left behind. Also, when you do the fresh install have the chipset drivers available from the AMD web site to install, not those from the MSI web site. You can probably even get along without MSI's LAN and audio drivers by using the default drivers that Windows will install.

Those temps seem far more reasonable for a 2600 that's not working really hard under stock cooling so it's promising. But the real problem comes up when that furnace (the 2080super) kicks up it's heat output while gaming.

I'm in USA so I really haven't any good ideas about bargain, and safe, computer parts shopping in the UK. I'd suggest Amazon, since they have a big presence there. They're a bit dodgy as they can change prices after a first visit, but it's just as likely to go down it seems. I got a good deal on my motherboard that way...first hit it was $145 (pretty much the going price anywhere) then hit the same Amazon ad a half hour later and they offered it for $128. I jumped on it as it was a great deal. Just don't put it in your shopping cart until you're ready to buy as that price will stick.

 

[gazza1988]

I have This 1660ti graphics card but I'd imagine it's not too far off?

I'll keep that in mind. As you can imagine my ads are just fans and coolers everywhere now .

I did wonder why when the page eventually loaded I had a different price. It's just annoying that I could "get it by 1pm today" last night and now it's 9th june. Could have sold out I suppose.

 

[drea.drechsler]

I have This 1660ti graphics card but I'd imagine it's not too far off?
...

Ahh...well somehow I got the idea you had a 2080super. you can wish I suppose.

A 1660ti should be a lot less power hungry...and so less heat output.

Yah, Amazon does that, probably because of how they partner with third party suppliers. It amounts to 'bait and switch', in my opinion, since your page will still have a ton of similar products you could still get...just more expensive. There should be a big expose on their tactics, but that kind of journalism is no longer in vogue.

 

[Flayed]

That link my mate sent me for the masterliquid isn't working. is there any others at a similar price point that would work? £50-60-ish.

https://www.awd-it.co.uk/cooler-mas...piry=1629739681&source=webgains&siteid=206719

Although I think I would rather have a mid range air cooler than a budget AIO cooler

 

[gazza1988]

Yeah I keep dreaming of updating the graphics card and processor. But then I reign myself in and figure if I can play on high settings with good fps on my 1080 monitor at 60hz then there's not really much point. The rig is 2 years old now (wasn't a high budget one back then) and still pretty good (not the greatest nowadays but adequate).

That kind of journalism isn't profitable anymore. Spend months investigating to write one article that will get lots of hits or write 100s of "articles" along the lines of "OMG LOOK AT THIS CELEBRITY AND WHAT THEY LOOK LIKE NOW" and break it up over 15 pages with 100s of ads.

just trash journalism but it pays better than real journalism.

 

[gazza1988]

So I've replaced all the fans. I now have 7 fans. The old fans were msi 12025L fans (non RGB on the front) they've gone on top and the 3 p12s have gone on the front. My temps are now good (I think) minimum temp after an hour is 38.9. Which is a big improvement. I've yet to reinstall windows and order a new cooler.

 

[drea.drechsler]

doing

So I've replaced all the fans. I now have 7 fans. The old fans were msi 12025L fans (non RGB on the front) they've gone on top and the 3 p12s have gone on the front. My temps are now good (I think) minimum temp after an hour is 38.9. Which is a big improvement. I've yet to reinstall windows and order a new cooler.

That temp's looking a lot better which is great. Now try playing a game, or download Valley demo, and let it run for a while to see where temp goes with everything working and better case ventilation.

I've no idea what the MSI fans are like but if those are Arctic P12's they've been reviewed pretty well...very nearly as quiet as Noctua's famously quiet NF-f12 fan at a fraction of the cost. I'm thinking of buying a 5-pack to replace the ones in my case, including the AIO fans.

 

[Flayed]

You may not need to buy a new cooler. The wraith coolers aren't bad as long as the case has good airflow.

 

[gazza1988]

doing

That temp's looking a lot better which is great. Now try playing a game, or download Valley demo, and let it run for a while to see where temp goes with everything working and better case ventilation.

I've no idea what the MSI fans are like but if those are Arctic P12's they've been reviewed pretty well...very nearly as quiet as Noctua's famously quiet NF-f12 fan at a fraction of the cost. I'm thinking of buying a 5-pack to replace the ones in my case, including the AIO fans.

I'll get on the game testing later on with the new fans. With kids and work there's not alot of spare time to focus fully on it.

I will say though that the p12s do seem to pull in more air. With me having those side vents on the front before I couldn't feel the air being sucked in but now I can. Only slightly but I can feel it trying to pull my hand in (if that makes sense).

I'm tempted to upgrade the rear exhaust to a p14. It's got an RGB version of the 12025L at present. That slot can take a 140mm fan.

However I think I'm about there with the case cooling. 3 intake fans and 4 exhaust should be plenty, if not overkill. I probably should have got 3 p14s instead because my case front can take 3 140mm fans. Oh well.

I might have found a cooler. A friend of mine is going to get a custom loop for his computer because he's got a 5900x and his arctic freezer 34 esports duo isn't cutting the mustard. He said I can have it because I helped him move house earlier in the year. Free is a good price, its only 6 months old. Plus if it doesn't work and I need a aio it's better what the wraith spire I currently have and it's not cost me anything. Win-win in my book.

 

[drea.drechsler]

...
arctic freezer 34 esports duo
...

If case ventilation is enough now that should be a good cooler for a 2600x, and a lot quieter than the spire at higher fan RPM's.

The secret to make a cooler fan unobtrusive with Ryzen is to set flat fan curve. I run it flat up to 65 or 70C at a speed that's not annoying and then bump it up to a speed that's noticeable but still not too bad. Only let the fans scream (probably won't on an esport duo) at high temp, around 85 or so.

 

[gazza1988]

Ah, I've not had a look yet but is the fan curve changeable in bios? Or is it software?

I'll Google how to set it properly when I get it but just curious for now.

 

[drea.drechsler]

Ah, I've not had a look yet but is the fan curve changeable in bios? Or is it software?

I'll Google how to set it properly when I get it but just curious for now.

B450 Tomahawk? I'm pretty sure fan speeds can be configured in BIOS, they are on my B450m Mortar, the mATX variant of the Tomahawk.

Just be using the motherboard fan headers: there's three for case fans and a fourth for the CPU. You can use splitter or Y adapters to put more than one fan on a header, but no more than two 120mm or 140mm fans on one header. But if your case fans are quiet enough you can simply attach them directly to a SATA power connector out of the PSU with an appropriate adapter.

 

[gazza1988]

I'll have to re-jig mine then. I've got 4 headers + 1 for cpu and 1 for a pump for watercooling.

7 fans. On 4 headers. However I've got 4 fans on 1 header. The p12s I got have a built in splitter. So I've basically daisy chained them all and put one of the old fans on it as well. Oops. Would it be an issue if I put each msi fan with a p12 even though 1 is exhaust and the other is intake?

 

[drea.drechsler]

I'll have to re-jig mine then. I've got 4 headers + 1 for cpu and 1 for a pump for watercooling.

7 fans. On 4 headers. However I've got 4 fans on 1 header. The p12s I got have a built in splitter. So I've basically daisy chained them all and put one of the old fans on it as well. Oops. Would it be an issue if I put each msi fan with a p12 even though 1 is exhaust and the other is intake?

Probably wouldn't be any issue for the fans, assuming they're all PWM controlled. PWM is identified by 4 wires on to fan, DC controlled fans have three or two wires.

The problem might be to the motherboard fan header...overloading it with too many fans can lead to burning it out. It may go immediately in a puff of smoke if grossly overloaded, or in a while as the controller just fades away. That's why it's best to keep to two unless you know exactly the ratings of all the fans as well as the header controller.

7 to 4 would be workable. They pump header might be fixed at +12V constantly since that's what they need to operate correctly.

 

[gazza1988]

Yeah a quick Google shows headers are 1amp and according to the product page they draw 0.1a each. Should be good? I'll still switch them up through because I don't know what the msi fan draws.

 

[drea.drechsler]

Yeah a quick Google shows headers are 1amp and according to the product page they draw 0.1a each. Should be good? I'll still switch them up through because I don't know what the msi fan draws.

So that means a motherboard header can hold 12W which seems feasible. Fans at 1.2W each...so up to 10 fans on a header? That just seems too much, but if that's what it says then..... do you trust the info? The product page for the fans should be mfr. furnished data and pretty reliable.

 

[gazza1988]

On the arctic website, I looked at the wrong one for my fans. Turns out they are 0.08a/12v DC. From arctic's own data sheet.

It's a new motor system apparently. The f12 fans are 0.24a per fan.

 

[gazza1988]

Finally got round to testing with the kids playing a solid 2 hours gaming on fortnite. Max temp was 85 degrees.

Pretty good considering at was nearly 20 degrees hotter a couple of days ago.

 

[drea.drechsler]

On the arctic website, I looked at the wrong one for my fans. Turns out they are 0.08a/12v DC. From arctic's own data sheet.

It's a new motor system apparently. The f12 fans are 0.24a per fan.

Not much difference...they'll still come within the 12W limit for a header. Just spread 'em out and you can't go wrong, I think.