Very High Temps i7 7700k with H105

[Spookyz]

Well, I left a 2600k i7 for a 7700k i7.

I bought this processor have 1 month.

My temperature before the maximum was 68º in FullLoad. Now it reaches 95ºc.

I have a H105 cooler, Artic MX4 thermal paste. I've reapplyed 3x correctly (Just a small drop in the Center), cleaned radiators, check everything. It's all OK.

Iddle temperature: 28-32ºc.
FullLoad Prime95 temperature in 25 minutes of use .: 88-95ºc

Core Voltage: 1.36v
PLL Voltage: 1.15v.
Core Ratio: 50x
Core Ratio Cache: 42x
AVX: -2

Clock: 5.0ghz in normal use / 4.8ghz in stress test

FANS:
TOP: H105 with PushPull / (Exhaust)
REAR: 1 Cooler / (Exhaust)
FRONT 2 Coolers / (Intake)
BOTTOM: H75 with PushPull (Intake) for GTX 1080.

 

[nitinvaid20]

what are the temp of the AIO cooler? when you have situations like this make sure that the cooler is working properly

 

[Spookyz]

what are the temp of the AIO cooler? when you have situations like this make sure that the cooler is working properly

Tube of H105, are a little hot.


Because I used this same cooler on the 2600k and it worked perfectly.

And also the temperature in iddle is 28-30 degrees.

And I also feel a small vibration in the tubes. But one of the tubes vibrates a little more than the other.

 

[Danra]

That CPU is inherently hot, because Intel no longer uses solder between the IHS and CPU die. Your CPU looks close to mine, a moderate overclock capable CPU. There are tricks in BIOS to lower temperatures and voltage, however, by a vast margin the best thing to do is remove the CPU IHS and apply liquid metal.

The following is an image of the hottest I can get my CPU, just a FEW seconds after the benchmark ran. I am using a Noctua U-14S, an air cooler, that is why the CPU temperatures dropped so quickly.

My CPU at 5.2GHz ~1.47 volts ran from 74 to 77 degrees C on a very CPU demanding benchmark, after applying Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/26-conductonaut-en

There are YouTube videos on how to apply this, although some are better than others. Thermal Grizzly provides instruction for the tool.

NOTE: Cut a tiny portion at the tip of the applicator to let liquid flow slower. For much more flow control, hold the plunger in your right hand between thumb and for finger [at the "wings" on the tube]; that will permit very positive flow control - otherwise the liquid metal can squirt out, a lot of it, and exactly what you do not want. Use very little. Also, cover the resistors on the PCB [that will be covered by the IHS] with liquid tape, or common black electrical tape will work as well [use scissors to cut a small amount, that is all you need].

I use delid, relid tools from Rocket Cool https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/products/rockit-88

I use a very thin line of head gasket maker or any good high temperature silicone with an extended tip applicator in the package. I only put the silicone on two sides of the bottom of the die. I do not cover the entire bottom edge for two reasons. 1.) Two sides is more than enough to secure the CPU to the die. 2.) Any gas buildup has a chance to escape under the sides not covered with silicone [that is the reason Intel leaves a small area with no sealant].

Instructions are at Rocket Cool and can be found on YouTube.com

Without applying liquid metal there is little chance of lowering your CPU temperature further. Take your time and follow instructions and you will accomplish the process successfully.

I hope this helps.

 

[Spookyz]

That CPU is inherently hot, because Intel no longer uses solder between the IHS and CPU die. Your CPU looks close to mine, a moderate overclock capable CPU. There are tricks in BIOS to lower temperatures and voltage, however, by a vast margin the best thing to do is remove the CPU IHS and apply liquid metal.

The following is an image of the hottest I can get my CPU, just a FEW seconds after the benchmark ran. I am using a Noctua U-14S, an air cooler, that is why the CPU temperatures dropped so quickly.

My CPU at 5.2GHz ~1.47 volts ran from 74 to 77 degrees C on a very CPU demanding benchmark, after applying Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/26-conductonaut-en

There are YouTube videos on how to apply this, although some are better than others. Thermal Grizzly provides instruction for the tool.

NOTE: Cut a tiny portion at the tip of the applicator to let liquid flow slower. For much more flow control, hold the plunger in your right hand between thumb and for finger [at the "wings" on the tube]; that will permit very positive flow control - otherwise the liquid metal can squirt out, a lot of it, and exactly what you do not want. Use very little. Also, cover the resistors on the PCB [that will be covered by the IHS] with liquid tape, or common black electrical tape will work as well [use scissors to cut a small amount, that is all you need].

I use delid, relid tools from Rocket Cool https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/products/rockit-88

I use a very thin line of head gasket maker or any good high temperature silicone with an extended tip applicator in the package. I only put the silicone on two sides of the bottom of the die. I do not cover the entire bottom edge for two reasons. 1.) Two sides is more than enough to secure the CPU to the die. 2.) Any gas buildup has a chance to escape under the sides not covered with silicone [that is the reason Intel leaves a small area with no sealant].

Instructions are at Rocket Cool and can be found on YouTube.com

Without applying liquid metal there is little chance of lowering your CPU temperature further. Take your time and follow instructions and you will accomplish the process successfully.

I hope this helps.

Hi, I bought Conductonaut, and Rockitcool. Now wait to arrive.

Would you have any tips to remove the silicone that comes from the factory that stays on the PCB?

 

[Danra]

ArctiClean [1&2] does an outstanding job. Use 1 first, 2 second. You can wipe as much TIM off as possible with a paper towel, be careful not to tare it and leave paper debris. Finish the job with coffee filters, they leave no lint or small debris of any kind.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100010&cm_re=arcticlean-_-35-100-010-_-Product

 

[Danra]

Another note, you can use ArctiClean on the old sealer used by Intel. It softens it and makes it easier to remove. If you get any ArctiClean 1 on the bottom of the PCB, do not worry, it will clean completely off with ArctiClean 2. For a completely pristine finish you can finalize by using 91% alcohol and coffee filters.

Note, I am very cautious and fastidious when it comes to computer hardware and use every possible means that yields perfection.