Very very high CPU temperature HELP! 87 C in BIOS alone!

[wingall]

I better tell the whole story..
So couple days ago now I closed my PC and went out. Once I got back and tried to boot up my PC nothing happened. No matter how many times I tried. No life from it. So I figured that the PSU had died on me. Which was plausible as it was I have had it replaced once before but with an old unit too..
So I bought a new one. Installed it correctly and got some life into my PC again. It booted up normally...ish. I first of head the CPU fan go absolutely insane, at this point I figured that it was just due to boot up as it calmed down after the PC booted up. But after I opened google chrome or any program for that matter the CPU fan went insane again. And I'm speaking MAX speed on the fan by the sound of it. Which hasn't happened before this incident on this PC. I had this program called Speccy installed and I noticed that the CPU was running pretty hot. I'm talking about.. 60 degrees idle and shooting up to 90 whenever I opened ANY program. So I freak out and close down my PC and google on my phone and talk to my friend about it..

We tried everything we could find.. Cleaning up the fans.. Removing the fan + heatsink, cleaning them and the old thermal paste (that was pretty dried up) and reapplied some thermal paste too. But then we ran into the issue of my PC not booting again.. So we google some more. Reset the bios by removing the battery on the motherboard, doing the whole discharge thing with the pins (I forgot what they are called now) on the side of the motherboard, reseating RAM and my PC boots up again.

HOWEVER! It gets stuck on bios now. No biggie, checking the bios.. The fan goes insane.. Temps are at 87 degrees celcius.. In bios screen alone. And if I boot it up, check the temps on Speccy while the PC is running. The temps are around 90!!!! So I have been keeping my PC off while trying to look more things to try out. But honestly. I have ran out of ideas. Please help me.
I know this was a lot and more of a rant but it shows what it's been trough and where it's at now. I'm actually afraid to turn it on anymore as the temps get too high.

PC INFO:
I got a prebuilt old PC (about 5 years old by now) Something along Asus Essentio CM6650.
New PSU Corsair C450M
New GPU MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Ti
Besides that the PC is as it was stock. I don't know if you can still find some info of it online.
So it's i7 2600 with 8 gigs of RAM as far as I remember.

I'll appreciate any ideas.

 

[CompuTronix]

... the PSU had died ... bought a new one. Installed it ... CPU fan went insane ... 60 degrees idle ... 90 whenever I opened ANY program ... Removing the fan + heatsink, cleaning ... old thermal paste ... reapplied ... Reset the bios ... reseating RAM ... i7 2600 ...

wingall,

On behalf of Tom's Moderator Team, welcome aboard!

Throttle temperature for the i7 2600 is 98°C, which is the Core temperature limit at which the processor will Throttle (reduce Core speed and voltage) to prevent thermal damage.

The problems you've been experiencing are directly related to the last physical actions taken. Sometime during the PSU replacement, the stock CPU cooler was bumped which caused a push-pin to pop loose from the motherboard. When the cooler was reinstalled after being cleaned and re-TIM'd, a push-pin problem was again introduced into the system.

Push-pins can be deceivingly tricky to get them fully inserted through the motherboard and properly latched, which is a very common problem inherent to push-pin coolers. A faulty push-pin causes poor contact pressure between the cooler and the CPU, resulting in high temperatures in BIOS, as well as in Windows at idle, and especially when running any workload.

You can troubleshoot this problem by pushing firmly on each corner of the cooler for about 30 seconds while watching your load temperatures. When you see a significant drop, you've found the loose push-pin.

(1) To re-seat a single loose push-pin, rotate the latch mechanism in the direction of the arrow counterclockwise 90° then retract the pin by pulling upward. Rotate the latch clockwise 90° to reset the pin, but do NOT push on the latch yet.

(2) To get the pin fully inserted through the motherboard, push only on the leg, NOT on the top of the latch.

(3) While holding the leg firmly against the motherboard with one hand, you can now push on the top of the latch with your other hand until the latch clicks.

(4) If you're re-seating the entire cooler, then be sure to latch the pins across from one another, rather than next to one another. Use an "X" pattern, so as to apply even pressure during installation.

Intel Stock Cooler Installation - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qczGR4KMnY

Once again, welcome aboard!

CT

 

[wingall]

... the PSU had died ... bought a new one. Installed it ... CPU fan went insane ... 60 degrees idle ... 90 whenever I opened ANY program ... Removing the fan + heatsink, cleaning ... old thermal paste ... reapplied ... Reset the bios ... reseating RAM ... i7 2600 ...

wingall,

On behalf of Tom's Moderator Team, welcome aboard!

Throttle temperature for the i7 2600 is 98°C, which is the Core temperature limit at which the processor will Throttle (reduce Core speed and voltage) to prevent thermal damage.

The problems you've been experiencing are directly related to the last physical actions taken. Sometime during the PSU replacement, the stock CPU cooler was bumped which caused a push-pin to pop loose from the motherboard. When the cooler was reinstalled after being cleaned and re-TIM'd, a push-pin problem was again introduced into the system.

Push-pins can be deceivingly tricky to get them fully inserted through the motherboard and properly latched, which is a very common problem inherent to push-pin coolers. A faulty push-pin causes poor contact pressure between the cooler and the CPU, resulting in high temperatures in BIOS, as well as in Windows at idle, and especially when running any workload.

You can troubleshoot this problem by pushing firmly on each corner of the cooler for about 30 seconds while watching your load temperatures. When you see a significant drop, you've found the loose push-pin.

(1) To re-seat a single loose push-pin, rotate the latch mechanism in the direction of the arrow counterclockwise 90° then retract the pin by pulling upward. Rotate the latch clockwise 90° to reset the pin, but do NOT push on the latch yet.

(2) To get the pin fully inserted through the motherboard, push only on the leg, NOT on the top of the latch.

(3) While holding the leg firmly against the motherboard with one hand, you can now push on the top of the latch with your other hand until the latch clicks.

(4) If you're re-seating the entire cooler, then be sure to latch the pins across from one another, rather than next to one another. Use an "X" pattern, so as to apply even pressure during installation.

Intel Stock Cooler Installation - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qczGR4KMnY

Once again, welcome aboard!

CT

Alright. I double checked and it indeed does look like one of the pins on one of the sides were bent outwards (so it was completely outside of the hole). Not snapped at least, I bent it back, redid the thermal paste just in case as I had disturbed it again and it should be firmly in place now. I double checked the other 3 corners and they seemed to be fine. So far on boot up the fan didn't go insane, PC just got stuck on bios for 2 restarts but after that booted up normally and the temps look much much better now. Can't believe I missed such a simple little thing. But little things in PC's make big differences by the looks of it. So I thank you for this! I will definitely come back to the forums if I have any further issues!