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adamgeo66

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Hi, I was on my computer playing a game when all of a sudden my computer blue screened with the VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE error. After looking it up, the usual cause is outdated drivers (I needed to update my drivers, I haven't done it in a few months) or intensive GPU usage (like I said, playing a game.) After turning my PC back on to update my drivers, it wouldn't post. Another thing to add, is that my AIO wasn't lighting up with the rest of my PC, but it did seem to be functioning. After doing some google searching I couldn't really figure out what the issue was, so I decided to reseat my CPU, all the cables connected to my AIO, and my GPU. Now, only my ram lights up, it doesn't post, and the EZ-Debug light for DRAM on my motherboard is on. I tried reseating my ram to no avail, and I couldn't find anything about my issue online. I've never had a problem like this before. Does anyone know what to do?

Specs:
CPU: Ryzen 9 3900x
GPU: RTX 3080 FE
MOBO: MSI MPG x570 Gaming Plus
AIO: NZXT Kraken x73
RAM: TridentZ RGB 2x16G 3200Mhz
 
What is your EXACT power supply model number and how long has it been in service?

Did you try removing the memory entirely and trying just a single stick in the A2 slot which is the second slot over from the CPU socket?

Which slots, starting at the CPU and going 1, 2, 3, 4 towards the edge of the motherboard are your DIMMs installed in right now?

How long has it been since this system was assembled and been running, or did you just assemble it and the problem started not long after?

Do you have a four pin PWM fan you can use to plug into the CPU_FAN header (While the the AIO is completely disconnected from everything) temporarily for just a very short time so that the system will get an RPM signal on that header and you can see if perhaps it is something related to a failure on the AIO? Just to see if it will POST and then immediately power back off. If so, try unplugging the AIO from power and CPU fan header, plug PWM fan into CPU_FAN header and try briefly to power on to see if there is any change.

How old is that X73?
 

adamgeo66

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What is your EXACT power supply model number and how long has it been in service?

Did you try removing the memory entirely and trying just a single stick in the A2 slot which is the second slot over from the CPU socket?

Which slots, starting at the CPU and going 1, 2, 3, 4 towards the edge of the motherboard are your DIMMs installed in right now?

How long has it been since this system was assembled and been running, or did you just assemble it and the problem started not long after?

Do you have a four pin PWM fan you can use to plug into the CPU_FAN header (While the the AIO is completely disconnected from everything) temporarily for just a very short time so that the system will get an RPM signal on that header and you can see if perhaps it is something related to a failure on the AIO? Just to see if it will POST and then immediately power back off. If so, try unplugging the AIO from power and CPU fan header, plug PWM fan into CPU_FAN header and try briefly to power on to see if there is any change.

How old is that X73?
The model number is 220-G3-1000-X1, and here's a link to the specs. I did try one stick in the second slot, but unfortunately it led to the same result. The DIMMS are installed in 2 and 4, which is where my MOBO says to put them. I assembled the machine in 2019, with a different GPU. The X73 was bought new in 2019. I can try that with the fan, but I'll have to do it tomorrow. Also another thing, I am sure the BIOS is up to date since I did an update a few weeks ago and I checked the product page for my MOBO to make sure I had the latest version when the problem appeared.
 
How long has that EVGA G3 power supply been in service?

When did you install THIS graphics card? Did the problems start immediately or not long afterwards? Did you buy this card new, or used, and where did you purchase it from?

It might not be a bad idea to pull the CPU and make sure you didn't bend any pins and make absolutely certain that you didn't plug any of the connections to the AIO into the wrong header, including the RGB or ARGB headers, or misplug anything else. Make sure you TRIPLE check everything here:

 

adamgeo66

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How long has that EVGA G3 power supply been in service?

When did you install THIS graphics card? Did the problems start immediately or not long afterwards? Did you buy this card new, or used, and where did you purchase it from?

It might not be a bad idea to pull the CPU and make sure you didn't bend any pins and make absolutely certain that you didn't plug any of the connections to the AIO into the wrong header, including the RGB or ARGB headers, or misplug anything else. Make sure you TRIPLE check everything here:

The G3 is the power supply I've been using with this PC since 2019, and I've used it a lot. I read about the G3 just now, and do you think that the lack of good OTP may be the cause? I bought the GPU new from Best Buy and installed it in Aprill of last year. I've already reseated the CPU and checked the pins, so no worries about that front. I've also probably quintuple checked all the headers and everything that's plugged in, I've had slightly unplugged cables be the cause of too many problems in the past, haha
 
So you bought it new in 2019?

The G3 is a good power supply. Plus, that unit is several hundred watts larger than even the over estimated size we'd recommend when factoring in potential spikes, so that aspect should definitely be fine and really it shouldn't see a lot of high temperatures anyhow.

Do you have semi-passive mode enabled or disabled?

I assume this build is still in the case but it might be a good idea to work it on the bench, countertop or table.

 

adamgeo66

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So you bought it new in 2019?

The G3 is a good power supply. Plus, that unit is several hundred watts larger than even the over estimated size we'd recommend when factoring in potential spikes, so that aspect should definitely be fine and really it shouldn't see a lot of high temperatures anyhow.

Do you have semi-passive mode enabled or disabled?

I assume this build is still in the case but it might be a good idea to work it on the bench, countertop or table.

Sorry for the late reply, life got in the way. The G3 was bought new in 2019, along with the AIO. Also, I was wrong about the model of AIO, its actually the Kraken X72. I tried doing the thing you said with the PWM fan, but instead I used the stock cooler that came with my CPU, and there was no change. Do you think it may be the motherboard?
 

adamgeo66

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It certainly is looking like it might be but I'd really bench this per my guide and see if anything changes.
Hi, I’m sorry for not updating for so long. I’m a student so with school starting I haven’t had a lot of time. After benching it, I’ve gotten a variety of results. I figured out that one of my RAM sticks became faulty, but this does not mean the end of the issues. I can post with one stick, which is good. Every time I’ve managed to post throughout the entire process, the computer suddenly restarts on the windows loading screen, be it the normal loading page or the automatic repair page or any other. Also, it just started to not recognize my M.2 drive in either slot. It recognizes it in the bios, but its just called “M2_2 2282 1.0GB”. The M.2 drive is 1TB, and was being recognized just fine beforehand. I’m slightly confident in that my CPU is not the issue, since the EZ Debug light never comes on for it, neither for the GPU. I’m not sure what to do next since the issues keep changing. Do you think I should try buying a different motherboard?
 
Well, board might still be under warranty depending on when you bought it. Motherboards usually have a three year warranty in most regions.

But I'd say it's definitely looking more like a motherboard issue to me. Specifically because of the variety of symptoms including storage devices not being recognized properly, etc., but, all those could be attributable to a bad drive as well. Have you tried removing the M.2 drive and see if you can POST and access BIOS without similar issues? If you have another drive, trying that, even temporarily installing or trying to install Windows on another drive first (Even if you have to buy a cheap one, since, well, having extra drives is never a bad idea and if you don't already have a backup drive for creating backup images of the OS and other important files it would be a REALLY good idea to have one, so it never seems a waste to have additional drives especially if it might help eliminate the need to buy a much more expensive motherboard.) might be a good idea as a step to avoid buying a whole new motherboard unnecessarily.

Windows seeming corrupted and boot drive not being properly recognized in BIOS could be either drive or motherboard. Drive is cheap and is not a waste of money so seems the better first choice but it's your money, not mine. Another option might be to create a bootable Seatools for DOS or WD lifeguard tools for DOS disk and check the drive by booting to the bootable flash drive or optical disk and running the short drive self test (DST) or quick test, and then if it passes run the Long generic/Extended test. Probably better to simply remove it from the motherboard and try a different drive though if possible.
 

adamgeo66

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Well, board might still be under warranty depending on when you bought it. Motherboards usually have a three year warranty in most regions.

But I'd say it's definitely looking more like a motherboard issue to me. Specifically because of the variety of symptoms including storage devices not being recognized properly, etc., but, all those could be attributable to a bad drive as well. Have you tried removing the M.2 drive and see if you can POST and access BIOS without similar issues? If you have another drive, trying that, even temporarily installing or trying to install Windows on another drive first (Even if you have to buy a cheap one, since, well, having extra drives is never a bad idea and if you don't already have a backup drive for creating backup images of the OS and other important files it would be a REALLY good idea to have one, so it never seems a waste to have additional drives especially if it might help eliminate the need to buy a much more expensive motherboard.) might be a good idea as a step to avoid buying a whole new motherboard unnecessarily.

Windows seeming corrupted and boot drive not being properly recognized in BIOS could be either drive or motherboard. Drive is cheap and is not a waste of money so seems the better first choice but it's your money, not mine. Another option might be to create a bootable Seatools for DOS or WD lifeguard tools for DOS disk and check the drive by booting to the bootable flash drive or optical disk and running the short drive self test (DST) or quick test, and then if it passes run the Long generic/Extended test. Probably better to simply remove it from the motherboard and try a different drive though if possible.
I have a laptop drive with Windows on it, so I’ll try that.
 

adamgeo66

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I just tested my PC with another drive, and it’s the same results, so I guess it’s the motherboard. Unfortunately, after checking the email receipt from when I bought it in 2019, the board only had a 1 year warrantee, though I’m still glad that I finally found the problem. Thanks so much for your help! Any recommendations on a new motherboard?

EDIT: I decided to buy the Asus AM4 TUF Gaming X570-Plus
 
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adamgeo66

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Well, that's a drag. So, did you get the new board yet?
Yes, and I have bad news. Even with the new motherboard, the issue still persists. Since my one stick of ram died, do you think the other one could be bad too, even if it posts? I had to order another kit of ram anyway (old ram’s warranty expired) because I couldn’t find an individual stick of ram that matched mine. The new ram comes tomorrow. Since the new motherboard didn’t fix my issue, should I return it?
 
I mean, that's your call. It's not a bad idea to have an extra motherboard around in case you DO have a board problem or failure later. Generally, if you plan to keep the system in use for a long time, the motherboard is usually the first thing that is going to eventually fail and later down the road the cost of a board that isn't already used is going to be prohibitively expensive. Not to mention, even if you DO upgrade the platform in a couple of years, if you decide to sell what you have now it's probably worth more with an extra board included.

On the other hand, it's money. And it's money that can be used towards whatever is actually causing the issue.

I'd try pulling the graphics card completely out of the motherboard and see if it still fails to power up properly. Obviously you won't have any display since you don't have integrated graphics on your CPU, but it should tell you at least if the graphics card is related to the problems you are seeing.
 

adamgeo66

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I mean, that's your call. It's not a bad idea to have an extra motherboard around in case you DO have a board problem or failure later. Generally, if you plan to keep the system in use for a long time, the motherboard is usually the first thing that is going to eventually fail and later down the road the cost of a board that isn't already used is going to be prohibitively expensive. Not to mention, even if you DO upgrade the platform in a couple of years, if you decide to sell what you have now it's probably worth more with an extra board included.

On the other hand, it's money. And it's money that can be used towards whatever is actually causing the issue.

I'd try pulling the graphics card completely out of the motherboard and see if it still fails to power up properly. Obviously you won't have any display since you don't have integrated graphics on your CPU, but it should tell you at least if the graphics card is related to the problems you are seeing.
I did try this, and the PC just sits with the VGA light on (duh, no display) so not much that’s telling me. Also, the PC will post just fine, and I could sit in the BIOS fine, as well as the menu that appears after a few unsuccessful boots. The problem only happens when it hits the Windows loading screen, including the safe mode one, with my normal drive or a different one. You’re right about keeping a spare motherboard, but I think I’ll use the new one from now on since the ethernet port on my old board doesn’t work (broke it a while ago accidentally). Do you think the issue is likely with the GPU since that’s what originally caused this whole mess with the VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE?
 
Have you considered or tried to do a clean install of Windows?

Is your drive still being recognized incorrectly in the BIOS?

Do you know anybody with a graphics card, even a very basic one that is not specifically for gaming but just for display (Or any type really), that you could borrow from just to test the bad graphics card theory? If not, you might have to try and find a super cheap one used somewhere or buy something very low end and basic, for example, you can get a GT 710 off Amazon for like 50 bucks, but again, it's 50 bucks and money doesn't come easily I know.

I'd certainly wait until the new memory kit arrives and you try that before moving on to other things though unless you do know somebody that can loan you a graphics card to try.
 

adamgeo66

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The drive isn’t recognized by the new board. I do know someone who may be able to let me borrow their GPU. I’ll update after trying the new ram, it’s coming today.
 

adamgeo66

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If possible I'd also try that drive in another machine to see if maybe it's a drive issue. Feels like starting to go in circles now.
The issue with the drive is isolated because it happens on both motherboards and the main issue still persists even without it in the PC. I got the new ram today, and it didn’t change anything, but at least I have 2 working sticks of ram. My friend is going to bring his PC to me this weekend and we are going to test his CPU and GPU on my board. Between the two parts I’m hoping the CPU is the problem because that’s cheaper to replace (my CPU is out of warranty.)
 
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