Want you guys' opinion. $3000 new build

cmcghee358

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So the wife is coming in to some money, so I think I'm going to pass on my AMD build to either her or my daughter.

I have a really rough idea what I'm going to buy, I'd like to see what you guys come up with.

Approximate Purchase Date: May-July

Budget Range: $3000 don't include rebates I never do them

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming

Parts Not Required: Mouse, I also have a 5870 2GB that I would consider Xfiring. But I'd prefer a 6xxx or 7xxx series(or nVidia equivalent 5xx 6xx). But if I can get good performance by cheaply adding another 5870 that's ok too.

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: newegg.com only. Loyal.

Country of Origin: USA

Parts Preferences: Because of the budget, I prefer Intel. I have a mild preference for AMD for GPUs just because of the power efficiency. But I'm posting this to get other viewpoints so do what you please for build recommendations. I'd like a Noctua NH-D14 air cooler and 80 PLUS GOLD PSU. Also my preference is for a single card GPU solution. But Xfire/SLI will be considered. Motherboard should be 8x/8x minimum

Overclocking: Yes

SLI or Crossfire: Maybe

Monitor Resolution: Will need 3 monitors 1920x1080 each totalling 5760x1080

Additional Comments: (e.g.: Need to have a window and lots of bling, I would like a quiet PC)
 
Solution
You've heard about the whole vertex 2 fiasco right cmc?

I'd go with an Intel 320 personally.

The NZXT fan controller have a pretty limited range of control, as in it'll go down to I think 6v and that's it. So long as you're ok with that it's fine.

As for the mobo, if you don't plan on getting a 3rd GPU, Tom's did an article few weeks ago where they showed the NF200 chip only netted a 2% improvement over a standard x8/x8 mobo, so if you're getting it for the increased performance may not be worth the ~$65 over a GA UD4P or p8p67 pro.

I'd also spend the extra ~$210 and upgrade to IPS monitors, but that's just me.


banthracis

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7XXX series? You time traveling on us again? =D

Anyway, don't really need a whole $3k to do a very nice build. Here's what I'll be doing in the near future for a near silent eyefinity PC.

I would recommend waiting till Z68 comes out though.

optical $21 free ship w/ promo code
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136236

Case
Silverstone FT02 $240
http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Aluminum-Uni-Body-Computer-CS-FT02B-W/dp/B0030MHEKY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1303765861&sr=8-2

$10 cheaper and free ship on amazon over newegg.

HSF
Thermalright HR-02
http://www.amazon.com/THERMALRIGHT-HR-02-FANLESS-DESIGN-HEATSINK/dp/B003XRAKNE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1303766400&sr=1-1

Fanless CPU cooler. Not passive since it's btwn the AP 181 fan below it, and exhaust fan above it, it's getting plenty of airflow.
If you want a fanned one, a thermalright silver arrow is the new top active air cooler.

HD
Spinpoint F3 1tb $65
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185

SSD Intel 320 120gb $210 w/ Promo Code
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167050

GPU
MSI 6950 2gb x2 $275 each, $550 total
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127555

I don't like MSI that much, but they're the best stock cooler option.
Alternative is sapphire ones on amazon for $8 more each.

Mobo/RAM
GA p67a ud4 and g skill ddr3 1600 8gb cas 8 $275
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.632698

CPU/PSU
Corsair AX850 and i5-2500k $380
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.624958

don't really need the 850, but thanks to combo, ends up cheaper than AX750.

OS
win 7 $100
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986

Monitor
Dell Ultrasharp 21.5" 1080p IPS x3 $218 each $654 total
http://www.provantage.com/dell-468-7485~7DELL0L9.htm

Grand total $2564, $2624 w/o the promo codes

I'd also suggest trying 3240 x 1920. I actually like it more than 5760x1080. Less space wasted on peripheral vision and more immersive really.
 

banthracis

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banthracis

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The issue with using those with a FT02 is that the blower ends up blowing in the opposite direction of the AP181 fans, resulting in deadspots for airflow.

Idle noise of that GPU is definitely quieter than stock by a few DB, though load is the same.
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/HD_6950_Twin_Frozr_II/27.html

I've been playing around with an Asus Direct CU 5850 and stock cooling 5850 in a borrowed RV02-E to try and figure out which HSF type is quieter. Technically, the direct CU is supposed to be quieter by a few db, though I haven't been able to tell.

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/EAH_5850_TOP_DirectCu/27.html

Temp wise they're about the same though I'll need to do some more thorough testing to eliminate slot placement and whether being primary or secondary card makes a diff.

Unfortunately that'll have to wait until I get PCIe 1/5 slot z68 mobo.
 

cburke82

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Your going to want to pay attention to these results:

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/HD_6950_Twin_Frozr_II/31.html

The OC ability of this card is crazy. And I can tell you that I have had a reference version and have tried OC/unlocking the reference 6950 and both work but they get very hot and when they get hot thats were you see the difference in sound. I would bet my next 10 paychecks that this card would out perform the 5850 no prob just look here.

http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/2011-gaming-graphics-charts/compare,2668.html?prod%5B4828%5D=on&prod%5B4824%5D=on&prod%5B4823%5D=on&prod%5B4849%5D=on

Im not just saying this card is great because I have it im saying it because I swapped out 4 different cards in 2 months and this one is great. Also the chart comparing performance does not count the OCing ability on the MSI card. Unless your trying to save money gong for the older card will only hurt your system going forward.

So if your looking for free performance increase from OC this card is awesome and cheap. If you will never OC this card still gets better ratings as far as performance goes than any 5850 out there. And its more open as far as the shroud goes so if you had a 200mm side case fan ( 20mm should be plenty quiet) the extra airflow would cool these cards were as a sealed shroud does not benefit from extra airflow because all it gets is what the blower can pull.
 

banthracis

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I'm playing around with the 5850's because I have them on hand. Haven't started building new PC yet. I'm trying to figure out cooler type/placement that'll work the best before buying new parts. I obviously won't be using 5850's for a 3240x1920 build.

I've been playing around with an Asus Direct CU 5850 and stock cooling 5850 in a borrowed RV02-E to try and figure out which HSF type is quieter.

FT02 doesn't have a side fan. It's a 90 degree rotated motherboard design with air sucked in the bottom and exhausted out the top. Blower type coolers perform poorly in this design because it ends up pushing air down against the AP181 fans, which are pushing air up, leading to thermal dead zones.

That card makes sense in a traditional PC case, in a 90degree rotated mobo case, it makes less sense.

I'm not sure what cmc's plans are, but mine are to have a system that runs under 20db at idle, and if a blower style GPU ends up requiring a higher fan speed to get the same temps as a shroud type, I'll go with a shroud type.
 

cburke82

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I guess if the OP wants to go with that specific case I see the problem however 98% of the cases he has to choose from will not have that issue and will still be plenty quiet.

The reason I recommended that card is for way more than the fact its quiet. It OC's like a beast from both other sites benches and my personal experience. It is by far more than a few db's quieter than reference cards when in real time use IF you are trying to keep temps down.

You see the reference card will allow temps to get up to 90c without turning the fans up in order to keep it quiet. Thats ok but if you would prefer a cooler case overall you will want to turn the fan up to about 50% now at 50% I can tell you that the reference cards are by far loud were I can turn this card to 60% and not hear it over my case fans.

If I was going for a silent case this card would still win. Because it will be ok up to 90c you could turn fan speeds all the way down to 25% and the card would not over heat and be super quiet. At a set speed of 25% you will not here this cards fans unless you are not playing the game and instead have your ear to the case lol.

It seems he wants to go as new as possible and Nvidia cards are both hot and loud so for a quiet card he would want AMD. And to get the most performance from AMD he will want to go for a 6970 or OC/unlock a 6950. Going the 6970 route will be louder and I can tell you based on Benchmarks from 3D Mark 11 and Metro 2033 the overclock I have on this 6950 it out performs the stock 6970 wile being quieter and cooler :).

AS far as quiet cases go I dont know what the OP is looking for exactly But my case ( HAF 922 it big though so not for everybody lol) Is plenty quiet if you were to use all large fans. You could have the front fan add a second 200mm side intake fan and keep the stock 200mm top exhaust fan. That would be quiet and keep this case super chilly, then pick your mobo of choice depending on what CPU you want and add a quiet CPU cooler with this MSI Twin Frozer 2 6970.

That would give you great perfomance low temps and a quiet setup. I would take the point of view that the ultimate goal is perofrmance so picking a case first and then picking part to work with that case is sort of backwards. Instead pick the parts that will give you what you are looking for IMO the GPU im recommending with a quiet CPU cooler will give you max performance with low temps and noise. If you choose that setup you then find a case that will hold all of those parts and meet you sound/space/cooling requierments.

If you start with the case then all of a sudden you cant use this card even though its the best choice. Well Im sure you could I would be willing to bet if you built this card into that case with a good CPU cooler you would be fine in the temps as fas as your CPU and GPU but if your picky about temps in the case why would you stop there and not be picky about temps on your GPU and CPU. You rarely get to have your cake and eat it to, it seems with that case you get a quiet case at the expense of the case being much different than what most components are designed for. Most fans and cooling solutions are not designed for the mobo to be turned a diff way there by changing the airflow coming from the GPU AND CPU so it would seem for that case yu give up cooling for the quietness (is that a word lol)
 

UmeNNis

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Gaming? As for monitors, I must suggest 120hz. Worth the extra money, I can't go back. Seems to make a difference, and you will also be 3d ready, should you decide to attempt that route.
 

cburke82

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Ill take a shot at a $3000 build here lol.

CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115070 $314

Mobo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131714 $269

RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145312 $229

GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127575&cm_re=6950-_-14-127-575-_-Product X2 $600

PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139015 $182

SSD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148348 X2 ( raid 0+1) $400

HDD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136514 $84

BRD/DVD/CD BURNER: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136226 $109

CASE: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119197&cm_re=haf_922-_-11-119-197-_-Product $99

CPU FAN : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103057 $29 ( this is quiet you could go els were for better cooling)

TOTAL PRICE: $2313 add $99 if you need windows

This would be plenty quiet as is and you also have a lot of room to choose a diff case and diff fans and what not. This would also demolish most systems out there BTW lol.
 

banthracis

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Um, Cburke, the OP doesn't want a silent gaming case... I posted for him the silent gaming case I'm working on.

For my scenario, the only way to get enough airflow and keep it under 20db is by using a FT02 or Raven 2 case. The reason being any case with fans at the edges will transfer a ton of noise into the air because there's nothing to insulate the user from the sound. The Silverstone designs avoid this by having the big fans at the bottom of the case with tons of components and metal to insulate the sound.

This isn't something I've been just theory crafting, I've been talking with Mike Chin over at SPCR, who's got a 11db floor anechoic chamber to actually test things.

For cases with large fans right at the edges + side fans, you're looking at 24 dba minimum such as the Antec 1200 for ex. It's actually even higher for a 932, in the 26-27dba range, much too high for my build.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article993-page4.html

20dba is VERY quiet, equivalent of a recording studio. Mike managed a RV02 system at 21dba at idle with a dual 4870 setup.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1002-page7.html
With the addition of acoustipack I'm hoping to get a xfire system to under 20dba.

For comparison, a side/front fan case with identical setup was 32dba at idle, which is the equivalent to a suburban bedroom at night, but too high for my goals.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article993-page6.html

Mike hasn't tested a 922, but in his experience nothing with a side fan or front fans w/o an insulting panel has hit below 28dba with that setup. Even with a front insulating panel like the P183, it still hit 23dba at idle.

Basically, as far as I know, there is not other air cooling choice for me besides a RV02 or FT02, or perhaps the new RV03 to possible get under 20dba with a xfire setup.

User experience over at [H]ocp and silverstone own testing has pretty much agreed that shroud type coolers give the best performance for the 90 degree rotated cases.

Unfortunately, there really isn't much info out there for building silent eyefinity xfire gaming PC's, hence why I'm experimenting with a borrowed RV02-E.
 

cburke82

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The OP does not need a silent case he does want a quite case. What I dont understand is why you would post recommendations based on your needs and not his? See I was posting a recommendation for a GPU based on what the OP had posted and you replied to that as if I was talking about your silent build and that reply could have made the OP think that card would cause issues when in 99% of the cases it will not.

Anyway the build I posted will work and has room left over for the OP to customise part to his/her need based on performance and space requirements it will be quiet and cool wile performing better than most systems and not using the full $3000. He could add another card for 3Xcrossfire and still be under the $3000 mark :)
 

cmcghee358

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Your build is pretty close to what I had in mind. Just gotta add 3 monitors to it. Also to settle the case debate, I'll either be getting a HAF-X or a Corsair 800D
 

cburke82

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I wanted the corsair case it was out of my budget :( lol. I think that build would have room for 3 monitors and that case? I didnt even look at any rebates or anything so with that build I would be 100% jealous of your PC lol.
 

banthracis

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Additional Comments: (e.g.: Need to have a window and lots of bling, I would like a quiet PC)

cmc didn't write they quiet PC window and bling part, that's just part of the instructions copy/pasted from the default form.

He didn't give any other major concerns besides eyefinity gaming and asked for others idea's for a $3,000 build so I just gave him mine.

I don't get why you're attacking my post and idea's when I clearly stated that it was for MY future near silent eyefinity gaming build.
 

cburke82

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WELL......... I recommended a GPU that works great and you wrot this.

""The issue with using those with a FT02 is that the blower ends up blowing in the opposite direction of the AP181 fans, resulting in deadspots for airflow.

Idle noise of that GPU is definitely quieter than stock by a few DB, though load is the same.
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews [...] II/27.html

I've been playing around with an Asus Direct CU 5850 and stock cooling 5850 in a borrowed RV02-E to try and figure out which HSF type is quieter. Technically, the direct CU is supposed to be quieter by a few db, though I haven't been able to tell.

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews [...] Cu/27.html

Temp wise they're about the same though I'll need to do some more thorough testing to eliminate slot placement and whether being primary or secondary card makes a diff.

Unfortunately that'll have to wait until I get PCIe 1/5 slot z68 mobo."""

So it seems to me that you were confusing my reco for the OP with a reco for your PC wile I never addressed you. So im simply stating reasons as to why this is a good card and for the OP none of the reasons you list as to why it may not be apply. Any that si all
 

cburke82

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Additional Comments: (e.g.: Need to have a window and lots of bling, I would like a quiet PC) so is that him saying he would like a quiet pc? Anyhow I was not commenting on your build sorry for any confusion :)
 

banthracis

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Thanks fine, apology accepted, and glad we were able to clear all that out.

As for monitor choice, I do recommend grabbing some IPS monitors and trying portrait mode eyefinity.

Before the whole, but IPS monitor has 8ms response time, a 120hz 2ms TN monitor is better for gaming, stuff gets in I'll explain.

TN panels have 2 reason's for their popularity; fast response time and extremely low cost. However, TN monitors depend upon that fast response time as they can only output 6-bit color per channel (red/green/blue are channels). What this means is that instead of producing 8-bit per channel like PVA and IPS panels for a nice TRUE 16 777 216 colors, it can only produce 262 144, and to produce the mention 16.7 million colors, it takes 2 colors from it's pallet and switches between them really fast to trick your eyes into seeing the proper color. An IPS monitor can just display the correct color. While this doesn't mean quite halving of response time, a 8ms IPS panel is equivalent to ~5ms TN panel.

This trickery is also why you don't see the right colors. Red can be orange, or/and Green is yellow green'ish, and so on. Now imagine the color switching happening in games WITH a moving picture... well the response time appear a tiny bit slower than the mention 2ms. Either way, at <10ms you really don't see any difference unless you are a pro gamer with lightning fast reflexes.

Also, TN makers aren't exactly honest with response time ratings. Raymond Soneira, PhD wrote up a great article on the marketing myths companies use for 120hz monitors.
http://www.maximumpc.com/article/features/display_myths_shattered?page=0,2
 

cmcghee358

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That's some interesting information about the TN IPS monitors.

I am fairly ignorant on the specifics, but I thought that the response time directly translated into refresh rate. Such as, 5ms monitors usually have a 60Hz refresh rate, where-as 2ms monitors usually have a 120Hz refresh rate.

Now these refresh rates act as a ceiling for FPS, regardless of the GPU output. So if I get an 8 ms IPS monitor, I guesstimate it will be around a 30Hz refresh rate, wouldn't that limit my FPS to 30? Albeit a very fancy and nice 30 FPS
 

banthracis

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Nope, response time and FPS are different measurements. the Dell ultrasharps are 60HZ.

Response time refers to how quickly a monitor can cycle through it's color spectrum.
The technical definition is the time required for a liquid crystal to change orientation.

What that means in reality is how long it takes to to go from gray to white and back to gray. The problem is without a standard for measurement, companies often pad their numbers to look better for TN monitors.

Refresh Rate's technical definition is actual a mathematical equation where Refresh Rate=The time alloted for each frame of video to be displayed on the screen/ (divided by) one second

In real terms it to how many times a second a monitor can synch with an input. This of course then leads to the question of, well if my monitors displays 60FPS, wouldn't a 1/60 or 16 MS response time be enough to mean no blurring at all?

The answer is YES, IF the rated specs were slowest possible rather than best case scenario + padding numbers. In reality a 8ms monitor can take anywhere from 8 to 30 MS depending on a buncha factors.

For TN panels it's worse because if it's displaying a color it can't normally do, (ie most of them) and have to rely on a quick color switch trick, you're effectively doubling the response time to depict that color.

The other thing to consider is that a 120hz monitor isn't really 120hz, that's part of the marketing nonsense. 120Hz monitors still only synch 60 times a second, what is does is drop an interpolated frame into the picture stream.

That's just a fancy term to describe something that's been used in animation for a long time. Basically, lets imagine a dude doing a fast 1 second wave. You can do this by displaying 20 frames of the hand down, 20 of the hand up in the air, and 20 with the hand back down.

Another way is to do 10 with hand down, 10 of hand halfway up in the air, 20 of the hand in the air, 10 of the hand halfway down, and 10 with hand down. You're still only displaying 60 frames, but by adding those half way down images, it theoretically looks smoother. If you've ever used a flipbook to simulate animation you'll have an idea of what this is.

Now, monitor companies in marketing consider these in between frames as the equivalent of 2 frames (sounds better than a 60hz monitor that automatically does in betweening).

To get a true 120 synchs per second, you'll need to go back to CRT. LCD tech is limited to 60 refreshes a second due to a buncha technical stuff having to do with the RC constant of the capacitors/resistors that make up the LCD. This is being worked on, though I'm not aware of any practical solutions yet.

TL:DR version - Response rate and refresh rate are 2 different things. A 60hz TN for ex is commonly found with 2-8ms marketed (not true) response time. Those Dells are 60HZ.