Water Cooling, HAF-X, Virgin

[kjriot]

As the topic states i'm A) a water cooling virgin (H100 dont count). B) using the Cooler Master HAF-X pc case.

I've tried randomly searching boards and vids for what I need to do and such but i always run into the problem of, it's over-detailed, or not detailed enough. I'm an idiot. An idiot who just spent around 4000$ on a PC, and wanting to spend a little more. My set up
Cooler Master HAF-X
i7-2600k @ 4.6 Ghz
SLI (2) GTX 580 3GB
Asus Maximus IV Extreme-Z
Samsung 820 series 256gb SSD
Seagate 750 GB SSHD (HDD)

So, my biggest problem at the moment is figuring out, piece by piece, what i'm going to need to water cool this machine. I meen fittings, Radiator(s), Pump(s) e.t.c. I was hoping at first to not get rid of the H100 and just cool the gpu's but it looks like it would be easier to just replace the H100 and do the CPU and GPU with the same loop or w/e. If i'm wrong feel free to correct me. Not really caring about HDD cooling. Even mounting options seem horrible, especially if i dont remove the h100. So if anyone would be kind enough to help yet another board cluttering noob with these specific details, it would be much appriciated, thanks.

 

[rubix_1011]

2 360 RAD (180$ each)

Should be at most $90-$100 each.

2 GTX 580 waterblocks (150$ each)

What blocks are these? Most full cover blocks are at most $125 or so.

1 CPU block (90$)

What CPU block? Most are $55-$75

You also don't need 2 pumps- I run a loop almost exactly the same size with a single MCP655 pump...and those are around $75/each.

 

[kjriot]

The rad and cpu block are the ones mentioned in my post above with links in it, and the waterblocks i just decided to go with the EVGA GTX 580 Hydro Copper 2. They look nice and supposedly are very good. but im open to suggestions on anything. I've been lookin and reading all morning it's getting hard to decipher things apart.

edit; thot id need 2 pumps, for 2 360 rad's, but if i only do 1 thats still a huge price tag.

 

[wolfram23]

Hah yeah don't buy $180 aluminum rads. Not a good buy.

Hell, Swiftech MCR320 Quiet Power rads at $65 each would be enough.

 

[rubix_1011]

^ That's what I run...two MCR320's.

Even at around $90 XSPC RX360s or Magicool thick 360's would be a better choice.

If the cards are reference nVidia cards, you can get reference GTX 580 blocks. Otherwise, you can consider universal GPU blocks and add appropriate heatsinks where needed. (also what I do).

 

[fb39ca4]

lol at the virgin terminology :lol:

 

[kjriot]

Waterblock i wouldnt mind spending the lil extra on since it was made specifically for the card in question thats why i just picked those. Reviews i find are all very nice for them.

The extra money for a better performance would be fine, so 2 of the XSPC 360 would be fine if they fit the haf-x and dont crush my ram sticks.

any reccomendation on CPU block?

 

[rubix_1011]

To be perfectly honest, you aren't going to be able to tell performance differences between almost all CPU blocks and GPU blocks by well-known brands, so most of the selection will be personal preference and budget. There is really only 2-5C difference in performance across the board and in many instances, it's give/take on which is better in each category. Radiators are a little bit more distinguishable (but not a lot), but Skinnee has most of those covered in his radiator reviews. Most 360 rads will dissipate 525-600 watts or so on average with 1200-1500 rpm fans; even more with higher speed/static pressure fans.

 

[kjriot]

ok so

Rad: 2
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8523/ex-rad-146/XSPC_RX360_Triple_120mm_Radiator_Rev_2.html

Pump: 1
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2128/ex-pmp-27/Swiftech_MCP655-B_12v_Water_Pump_w_38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html

GPU waterblock: 2 (unless theres a cheaper full block with as good performance)
http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=400-CU-G580-B1&family=Accessories%20-%20Hardware&sw=4

CPU block: 1
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14525/ex-blc-1007/Alphacool_HF_14_Yellowstone_-_Copper_Edition_Sockel_775136611561155.html?tl=g30c85s139

Resovoir: (had no input here so chose this)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11219/ex-res-232/XSPC_Dual_525_Bay_Reservoir_-_Laing_D5_MCP655_w_Blue_LED_Light_-_Clear_Silver_Black.html?tl=g30c97s168

Tubing/fittings/clamps/coolant:
Not sure what fittings i need given the above parts, coolant i havent looked at yet. and tubing i havent looked at yet cuz im not sure what size it needs to be given parts above.

Am I on the right track finaly?

 

[wolfram23]

Pretty good. Strictly speaking, you don't need a resevoir with that much radiator - there's already going to be lots of water in the loop. Not that it's a bad idea or anything, and that one is nice because the pump goes right inside it.

 

[kjriot]

i didnt even notice that the pump sticks in that..but i think that would be ideal if its safe, i dont really have a clue where id stick the pump given my current set-up, maybe i shud just provide pictures of my case and its insides.

Just looking at fittings now..trying to decide barb or compression i hear they are the same really so just lookin around. but quick question on that, do both use clamps? and how does each 1 rly work i cant find a clear awnser.

 

[wolfram23]

Same thing. There's a 1/2" barb on one end, that sticks inside your tube. You clamp on that. On the other end is a G1/4" thread, which goes into your rad/block/pump. A lot of items come with barbs already, like your pump, so you only need to purchase a few where they are not included, unless you need to buy special 90 or 45 degree fittings.

 

[kjriot]

alright i picked some tygon tubing i guess last question in all of this would be, coolant. i was looking at some EK EKoolant Premium Liquid Cooling Premix Coolant - 1L - Blood Red (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14161/ex-liq-191/EK_EKoolant_Premium_Liquid_Cooling_Premix_Coolant_-_1L_-_Blood_Red.html?tl=g30c337s1547)
mostly cuz i want it to be colored, pref red or blue, cant figure out how much this resovoir takes or if this coolant is wat i need, shud i get the and an addative..?

 

[wolfram23]

You can just buy destilled water from the grocery store and use a colored anti-bacterial additive. Or just buy colored tubing.

 

[kjriot]

destilled water..rly? Buddy was tellin me its better to go with these coolants as they arent conductive and im a noob...basicly. but i did pick out some red tubing.
Danger Den DreamFlex Value Pack - Tubing / Clamps / Tube Cutter ( 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD ) - UV Red ($30)

believe thats the right size, i made all my fittins in my cart 1/2" (1/4 barb) or w/e

 

[rubix_1011]

No, any liquid becomes conductive once in contact with metals in the loop, so that validity is easily null after a while. Most of it is marketing hype, anyways.

FWIW...distilled water is 'non-conductive' out of the jug, so have him put that in his pipe and smoke it. Almost all enthusiasts run distilled and either biocide and/or a killcoil. If you want color, get colored tubing that is UV reactive and some LED/UV reactive lighting. Some additives/coolants break down under high-stress/high-load environments which clogs waterblocks and gets lodged in other components.

Reservoir size doesn't make a difference on temps, so don't let that impact your decisions. Some reservoirs allow for an integrated pump, some do not...some are res/tops for a pump, others are simply just standalone.

 

[kjriot]

awesome. I grabbed some distilled water it may be cheaper at a store but more convenient for me to order, ill just find some addative and what nots for color. Think im all set.


ex-blc-1007

Alphacool HF 14 Yellowstone - Copper Edition Sockel 775/1366/1156/1155 $49.95 $49.95
fan-642

Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm x 25mm Fan - 1150 RPM (D1225C12B3AP-13)

Sleeve The Cable(s): Yes (Select Sleeve Color Next) ($3.99)
Select Your Cable Sleeve Color: Kobra High Density Black
Select Your Heatshrink Color: Blue UV Reactive
Replace Connector: Yes ($2.99)
Select Replacement Connectors Colors: UV Blue
$22.93 $137.58
ex-tub-990

Danger Den DreamFlex Value Pack - Tubing / Clamps / Tube Cutter ( 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD ) - UV Red $29.95 $29.95
ex-rad-146

XSPC RX360 Triple 120mm Radiator Rev 2.

Select G 1/4" Fittings (Qty. 2): 1/2" ID Barb - Black ($7.00)
$101.99 $203.98
koo-278

Koolance 1/2" (13mm) ID G1/4 Threaded Barb Pair w/ Hose Clamps (NZL-V13BP) $10.99 $21.98
ex-liq-202

Alphacool Ultra Pure Water - 1000mL $11.99 $11.99
ex-liq-37

PrimoChill Liquid Utopia - Blood Red

Color!: Blood Red
Utopia!: Utopia Clear
$9.99 $9.99
ex-res-232

XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir - Laing D5 / MCP655 w/ Blue LED Light - Clear / Silver / Black

Select a Swiftech MCP655 Pump: Swiftech MCP655-B ($89.95)
Select G 1/4" Fittings (Qty. 2): 1/2" ID Barb - Black ($7.00)
$156.90 $156.90
Subtotal: $622.32


thats my current cart i THINK i have everything.

 

[gbkinum1]

destilled water..rly? Buddy was tellin me its better to go with these coolants as they arent conductive and im a noob...basicly. but i did pick out some red tubing.
Danger Den DreamFlex Value Pack - Tubing / Clamps / Tube Cutter ( 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD ) - UV Red ($30)

believe thats the right size, i made all my fittins in my cart 1/2" (1/4 barb) or w/e

oh you.. I mentioned coolant in my first response to you

Pure water is actually not very conductive at all, as a matter of fact.. the purity of water is often based on how conductive it is (the less conductive.. the more pure), but any liquid you are looking at will become conductive the moment it leaves the loop and picks up any dust/particles etc that it touches. On top of that, many coolants available have additives that either gum up your blocks or just flat out don't perform as well as distilled water.. just use distilled water with colored tubing.. you'll thank yourself later

Don't forget some PT Nuke/silver coil to kill any critters/algae in there

 

[rubix_1011]

Pure water is actually not very conductive at all, as a matter of fact.. the purity of water is often based on how conductive it is (the less conductive.. the more pure), but any liquid you are looking at will become conductive the moment it leaves the loop and picks up any dust/particles etc that it touches. On top of that, many coolants available have additives that either gum up your blocks or just flat out don't perform as well as distilled water.. just use distilled water with colored tubing.. you'll thank yourself later

Don't forget some PT Nuke/silver coil to kill any critters/algae in there

Yep, completely agree.

 

[kjriot]

Im being told again that having 1 loop for the cpu and 2 gpu and 2 360 RAD is completly useless, that i shud do 2 loops, cpu by itself, and 1 for the gpu's, 2 seperate water systems, a 360 and a 240...im just..so confused now.

 

[rubix_1011]

No...who are you being told by?

There is no benefit of dual loops over a single serial loop, or even dual shared loops. A single loop or even dual loops that share a reservoir take advantage of all the radiator space in your system which is ideal instead of wasting extra space that might be under-utilized in a dual loop.

Where are you getting this info? Gabe from Swiftech as posted some detailed test results (I have them linked in the WC sticky) that go over these facts. Please link to the advice you're getting.

Edit: Link to information discussed above: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?254683-Dual-Loop-versus-Single-the-facts

Conclusions:

Under extreme performance scenarios, and from a pure performance standpoint, dual loops versus single loop are neither better nor worse, under the strict condition that the load ratios are evenly balanced.
Under the most commonly encountered loads though, single loops do win.

Under both of the above use scenarios, single loops also win from a reliability standpoint because of pump redundancy.

The choice is yours to make.

 

[kjriot]

buddy of mine was tellin me this and referred me to that site.

his logic is that by going over the cpu ur taking just hot water to the gpu's, and that both require seperate flow, cpu high, gpu low, meening 2 systems not 1 big loop

 

[Motopsychojdn]

I'm going to upset your mate then, I plan on throwing the water through my two 6950's, then a 480, then the Cpu before a final rad
I also have three resses atm, it will be four when the cards go in
Moto

 

[rubix_1011]

Can you link the site? Every good watercooler knows that there isn't such a thing as 'hot water' in a watercooling loop. If your loop is designed with any planning, the actual water temperature should be within 10C or even 15C of room temperature. This would make the water at most, lukewarm: example- 75F = ~24C with a 10C delta, would be 35C = 93F...at most maybe human body temps of 98.6F or 37C. Your water temp should never really be warmer than this...your CPU/GPU temp measurements will be different and higher, but doesn't equate to actual water temps as 1:1.

Sorry, but your friend is incorrect. A serial loop with the exact same components will out-perform and out cool the same exact components in a dual loop setup with segregated CPU and GPUs.

 

[kjriot]

Wasn't on a site was on a game, but think we came to the 1 loop going
res>pump>cpu>rad>gpu>rad>res
Edit) or res/pump > rad > cpu > rad > gpu > gpu > res/pump, so it goes thru a rad b4 a new component

 

[rubix_1011]

Ahh, I see.

Loop order does not matter when it comes to temps...the biggest concern is making sure your pump doesn't suck air, so having the res > pump (with the res being higher than the pump inlet) helps tremendously. This isn't a golden rule, just a very *strong* suggestion by most watercooling folks as it makes filling and bleeding air from the loop easier.

My loop goes: res > pump > cpu > gpu > gpu > rad > rad

You really won't see more than 2-5C difference in actual water temps at any single point within the loop.