Water Cooling Issue

[drjackool]

Hi
I heard open loop water cooling systems need to change every year the tubes and the water.
But EK-Tube ZMT tube is Zero Maintenance, Is it means we do not need to changes the tubes?

My current cooler is CoolerMaster ML240L, i worry about it quality and life span because i heard closed loops works only 2 or 3 years. I planning to buy a EK Liquid 240.

How to detect EK Liquid 240 Version from package box?

What is your recommendation? buy EK or keep current. Also i fear from leakage of open-loops because i heard if we do not change the coolant or tubes it occurs.

Please Help

Thanks

 

[Lutfij]

You're fine with what you have. They don't need to be opened or maintained apart from cleaning out the radiator's grills. You should also read up on the watercooling sticky to get a better grasp of custom watercooling.

 

[The Original Ralph]

rubix-1011 put up a pretty decent water cooling guide sticky at the top of this forum http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-3038208/overclocking-cooling-water-cooling-sticky-index.html

yeah, some folks feel the system should be cleaned every 9-12 months, suspect they're the hard core OCers running 5.9
others feel every 2-3 years

Never heard of any changing the tubes, basically they run a cleaning solution they buy or mix themselves (80% distilled water/20% white vinegar) - just watch your temps - if they climb over time (ie 1-2 years, learn how to drain your system and refill with a cleaning solution to run in it for a bit

 

[rubix_1011]

My sticky is a bit old and probably needs a bit of cleaning up, but the overall principles still apply.

I've personally run up to 2-3 years with proper coolant or anti-microbial. If you don't see visible problems, chances are good that you are OK...seeing is believing.

Either way, if you are you going to change tubing or coolant, we are speaking of $40-$50 at most in cost for all new tubing and coolant...and this is being extremely generous. Otherwise, if you drain coolant, just be absolutely certain that any tubing that is removed is also just as secure when you reconnect to the fittings. Over time, tubing can disform and conform to the fitting and might not fit as snugly the second, third or fourth time.

 

[drjackool]

You're fine with what you have. They don't need to be opened or maintained apart from cleaning out the radiator's grills. You should also read up on the watercooling sticky to get a better grasp of custom watercooling.

In fact my problem is itching to build and fun.
I try to turn off my itching and keeping this. I think closed loops are safer from leakage. When ML240L get damages i buy a Corsair that time.

 

[rubix_1011]

Closed loop coolers are probably not going to leak because there isn't a need to be exposed to building or filling them with coolant, so by nature, this is correct.

Custom watercooling offers greater expansion and customization that isn't typically offered by normal AIOs, but your success is dependent upon your loop build quality and ensuring proper fitting/tubing seals.

Liquid cooling - regardless of the form - offers some risk that is inherent of the nature of the cooler design using liquid coolant inside the PC. I've seen photos of leaking AIOs and have heard of people using cheaply produced 'custom' loop products without success. I've also seen people who have had coolant leaking problems with high-end components, although most of the time, this is less of an issue due to the amount of quality assurance testing prior to sales...and ends up being more of a user error problem. AIO leaking is largely something that was much more common 10 years ago when we first started seeing these components...they have undergone a lot of development and improvement in that time. Also, most AIOs are actually made by the same 2-3 manufacturers...the actual branding, fans and software just differs based on what box they are sold in.

 

[drjackool]

Closed loop coolers are probably not going to leak because there isn't a need to be exposed to building or filling them with coolant, so by nature, this is correct.

Custom watercooling offers greater expansion and customization that isn't typically offered by normal AIOs, but your success is dependent upon your loop build quality and ensuring proper fitting/tubing seals.

Liquid cooling - regardless of the form - offers some risk that is inherent of the nature of the cooler design using liquid coolant inside the PC. I've seen photos of leaking AIOs and have heard of people using cheaply produced 'custom' loop products without success. I've also seen people who have had coolant leaking problems with high-end components, although most of the time, this is less of an issue due to the amount of quality assurance testing prior to sales...and ends up being more of a user error problem. AIO leaking is largely something that was much more common 10 years ago when we first started seeing these components...they have undergone a lot of development and improvement in that time. Also, most AIOs are actually made by the same 2-3 manufacturers...the actual branding, fans and software just differs based on what box they are sold in.

Thanks, In my country, EKWB Liquid 240 and Corsair H100i price is same Which you recommend?

 

[rubix_1011]

Not even a contest. EK 240

Might perform similarly, but EK build quality and expansion are the main benefits.

 

[drjackool]

Not even a contest. EK 240

Might perform similarly, but EK build quality and expansion are the main benefits.

Thanks, A fun question: EK Liquid 240 V2 box is green and Version 1 is Orange? is this correct?

 

[rubix_1011]

The L and P kits are different.

The L version uses a DDC pump and 38mm thick rad. Edit: also Supremacy MX block

The P version uses a D5 pump and 40mm thick rad. Edit: also Supremacy Evo block

They could be first/second gen, but not sure if that is how they are intended to be denoted since both are still available....just a little different kits.

 

[drjackool]

The L and P kits are different.

The L version uses a DDC pump and 38mm thick rad. Edit: also Supremacy MX block

The P version uses a D5 pump and 40mm thick rad. Edit: also Supremacy Evo block

They could be first/second gen, but not sure if that is how they are intended to be denoted since both are still available....just a little different kits.

L or P is not matter. The Version is matter.
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-l240-1

As i mentined the price is same to H100i pro and i doubt that may be Version 1

 

[rubix_1011]

What is the link to the v1 kit? I can look at it and compare, but I'm still going to stand by EK vs. H100, regardless.

 

[drjackool]

What is the link to the v1 kit? I can look at it and compare, but I'm still going to stand by EK vs. H100, regardless.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-l240

 

[rubix_1011]

Primarily the pump, DDC in the v2 vs the DCP in the v1, although the DCP is still a form of DDC...just a lower performing/lower wattage form.

 

[drjackool]

Primarily the pump, DDC in the v2 vs the DCP in the v1, although the DCP is still a form of DDC...just a lower performing/lower wattage form.

Thanks, I think you not understand my question. my question is just the color of the package. because the seller does not know the cooler is version 1 or 2?

 

[rubix_1011]

Seller, (EKWB) knows it is v1 or v2, which is why it is listed as v2 on the second version. Buyer might not.

Color does not mean anything as you can also see orange and green color scheme used for other product lines.

Either version is very good, so that shouldn't be of concern - sometimes manufacturers just deprecate a product and release a newer one because they simply offer different components due to pricing or availability.

Knowing what version each of these kits are isn't as important as knowing the components within them.