Water cooling suggestions

TheErkish

Honorable
Apr 9, 2013
31
0
10,540
In the planing phase for my first custom watercooling. I have a fairly strict budget, especially with the crazy price of watercooling components here in Norway. It also seems like the only avaliable manufacturer is EK, unless I buy from ebay or abroad. I've had my eyes on the L360 kit from EK, as it looks like its cheaper to buy that than the individual parts. I would also like to watercool my GPU (7970 DC2), shame that its waterblock is so damn expensive :/ The kit and the waterblock in total is just within my budget, but I'm completely open for suggestions. (Case is CM HAF X, if that's relevant)

Thanks in advance :)
 
Solution
Ek makes really good stuff phobya is a really good option as well for the kits. You would need to search around on sites but this kit I have used before a total of about 7 times if I'm doing a basic non acrylic loop http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22865/ex-wat-295/Phobya_Pure_Performance_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_-_360LT.html?tl=c83s137b189 I would stick with the ek water block and just buy this kit if you are trying to save some money. Unless there is a look that you are going for with the EK. They both are really solid brands, and both do an amazing job cooling your system. If you are looking for color I would recommend the meyhams pastel. http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/pastel.html This stuff with the block will probably be around $360 USD...

lfkfkfkffs

Admirable
Ek makes really good stuff phobya is a really good option as well for the kits. You would need to search around on sites but this kit I have used before a total of about 7 times if I'm doing a basic non acrylic loop http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22865/ex-wat-295/Phobya_Pure_Performance_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_-_360LT.html?tl=c83s137b189 I would stick with the ek water block and just buy this kit if you are trying to save some money. Unless there is a look that you are going for with the EK. They both are really solid brands, and both do an amazing job cooling your system. If you are looking for color I would recommend the meyhams pastel. http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/pastel.html This stuff with the block will probably be around $360 USD but just convert that to your currency. But EK or the one I suggested both have the same cooling potential. You also will want to plan out and consider how and where you are going to mount things. You will also want to look into stuff like this for mounting the stuff http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=44_1187_80 Not all water cooling kits will install easy, so you need to take into consideration the alternatives for mounting with mod smart kits etc
 
Solution

TheErkish

Honorable
Apr 9, 2013
31
0
10,540


Thanks for the answer :) In Norwegian prices its actually closer to $460 (uggh...) I was looking at some used stuff, and a guy was selling a Swiftech Apogee Drive 2 (built-in pump) + some fittings and a reservoir, fairly cheap. I dont know alot about the Drive 2, and I'm abit sceptical to buying used watercooling gear. But it is a chance to get a better deal. Colored fluid is not needed, going with Primoflex Red tubing anyway
 

lfkfkfkffs

Admirable
I really wouldn't suggest buying a used water cooling kit online, mostly because you don't know how well it was taken care of, and if they did anything to help with the mixed metals that are in the water cooling systems. In one of my builds a customer bought a water block online used and it had some discolor to the metal inside of the block. For the most part when you buy a water cooling kit make sure that it comes with a piece of silver in the res, normally it will just be a little piece of metal standing up in the middle, but that helps with the mixing of metals so you don't get weird gunk build up in your system. and it also helps by preventing discolor. The other thing that you will want to consider with colored tubing is the fact that leaks can be harder to spot, because when the water leaks out it will sit around the compression fitting or barb fitting for a while before it drops and you won't be able to see it. I run all of my systems for about 30 minutes for leak tests, but for someone just starting I would recommend 12-24 hours. Watch it carefully for about the first 10 minutes and then check back every 30 minutes after that. You also will want to use a dedicated power supply when you first fill your loop, preferably one that has an on off switch, while you do that disconnect the 24 pin from the motherboard if you can access it after your loop is installed while you fill it. If I am able to reach it I will disconnect the 8 pin from the cpu, as well as the cmos battery, because that also puts out a little bit of power.