Water loop practicality

[Flibbi_boi]

Will buying a loop help me with cooling or will it not really make a difference with my current setup? I already have a aio cooler for the CPU and fans for gpu. My Pcpartpicker list is here

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/xX_D4NK_MEMES_Xx/saved/yVtvK8

My cooling list is here

https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/shared/oW595d004a30b11

And my gpu water blocks are here

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-GB1080TiGB.html

Please ignore the fans, (I already have some), radiator, (getting a 360mm one), and the water blocks on the ekwb list (am getting phanteks blocks)

 

[Snipergod87]

Second link is you personal cart on EKWB we cannot see it, it is just a generic link.

 

[Flibbi_boi]

Second link is you personal cart on EKWB we cannot see it, it is just a generic link.

Ok, I released that right off the bat and I updated the list

 

[JackNaylorPE]

The loop is more practical than many of the component selections but again, w/o stated goals the "practicality" can not be judged. For example "what are you reasons for going to water cooling ? Performance ? Noise ? Aesthetics ? What will the PC be used for ... workstation ? Gaming ?

1. The AIO means you get to tell your friends "I have water cooling" ... outside that, it brings nothing to the table. The 100i gets outperformed, both in thermals and noise by much cheaper air coolers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYKdKVxbnp8&t=1435s

At 22:55, we see the the H100i trails the Noctua NH-D15 by 3C and to get even that close, it needs to be 11.3 times as loud.

2. There's no explanation as to what "feature" the MoBo contains that a $175 cheaper board does not provide so it is hard to assess whether it will "make a difference"

3. The two separate packages of RAM on your list are not guaranteed to work together. You onlt get that guaranteed when you purchase RAM in a single package, You could get a set guaranteed to work for less money:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NgJkcf/gskill-memory-f43000c15q32grbb

4. With the budget all out on everything on the list, the mechanical HD should be an SSHD.

5. With this kind of investment, I wouldn't be investing in 60 Hz 4 K monitors. The new 4k monitors are expected to drop in August ... these will be 144 hHz support HDR, IPS and 4k. This is the state of the art. When they drop the investment in all existing 4k monitors will take a hit because everything else will not support the huge improvements in the image, and smoothness of game play.

Next, you have a Freesync Monitor with G-Sync GFX cards meaning that you can take advantage of neither technology. The monitor is also poorly reviewed, as would be expected for the price. From a budget standpoint, if your budget is limited to $250 - $300, I would steer a user to 1080p. If "budget" is limiting this choice, then i would in no way be considering water cooling until the build could accommodate better monitors.

6. To play all of the games in the typical games used in review test sites @ 60 fps, it takes two 1080 Tis to "cu the mustard". Three (3) 3k screens is out of range for any combination of GFX cards.

7. Twin 1080 Tis requires an 800~950 Watts power supply unit. If overclocking everything, I'd go with a premium 1050 watt unit ... something better than the Thermaltake Bronze.. here I like the Seasonic Snow Silent 1050

8. As to the water cooling ......

Like AIOs, the universal water block doesn't cool the VRMs and memory, and the temps of these components often control how much OC you can get. The Phanteks full cover blocks are a better choice


A thin 480 rad is insufficient for twin OC'd 1080 Tis and a OC'd CPU

 

[Flibbi_boi]

The loop is more practical than many of the component selections but again, w/o stated goals the "practicality" can not be judged. For example "what are you reasons for going to water cooling ? Performance ? Noise ? Aesthetics ? What will the PC be used for ... workstation ? Gaming ?

1. The AIO means you get to tell your friends "I have water cooling" ... outside that, it brings nothing to the table. The 100i gets outperformed, both in thermals and noise by much cheaper air coolers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYKdKVxbnp8&t=1435s

At 22:55, we see the the H100i trails the Noctua NH-D15 by 3C and to get even that close, it needs to be 11.3 times as loud.

2. There's no explanation as to what "feature" the MoBo contains that a $175 cheaper board does not provide so it is hard to assess whether it will "make a difference"

3. The two separate packages of RAM on your list are not guaranteed to work together. You onlt get that guaranteed when you purchase RAM in a single package, You could get a set guaranteed to work for less money:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NgJkcf/gskill-memory-f43000c15q32grbb

4. With the budget all out on everything on the list, the mechanical HD should be an SSHD.

5. With this kind of investment, I wouldn't be investing in 60 Hz 4 K monitors. The new 4k monitors are expected to drop in August ... these will be 144 hHz support HDR, IPS and 4k. This is the state of the art. When they drop the investment in all existing 4k monitors will take a hit because everything else will not support the huge improvements in the image, and smoothness of game play.

Next, you have a Freesync Monitor with G-Sync GFX cards meaning that you can take advantage of neither technology. The monitor is also poorly reviewed, as would be expected for the price. From a budget standpoint, if your budget is limited to $250 - $300, I would steer a user to 1080p. If "budget" is limiting this choice, then i would in no way be considering water cooling until the build could accommodate better monitors.

6. To play all of the games in the typical games used in review test sites @ 60 fps, it takes two 1080 Tis to "cu the mustard". Three (3) 3k screens is out of range for any combination of GFX cards.

7. Twin 1080 Tis requires an 800~950 Watts power supply unit. If overclocking everything, I'd go with a premium 1050 watt unit ... something better than the Thermaltake Bronze

8. As to the water cooling ......

Like AIOs, the universal water block doesn't cool the VRMs and memory, and the temps of these components often control how much OC you can get


A thin 480 rad is insufficient for twin OC'd 1080 Tis and a OC'd CPU

Ok, but ekwb said a 480 mm was sufficient and I tried to save money by going smaller. And yes I am goin for performance and silence. And I don't think getting 2 packages of the same ram modules wouldn't work.

 

[JackNaylorPE]

Radiator Selection

GPU = 266 watts peak gaming (stock)
GPU Power Limiter Range = +50% w/ OC
CPU Power = 130 watts (OC'd)

let's forget the 50% thing and assume your GPU OC only draws an extra 20%.

Heat Load = 130 (CPU) + 2 x 266 x 120% (GPUs) + 12 watts (pump) or 780 watts.

Your radiator core will be expected to handle roughly 60% of that load or 468 watts, the rest being radiated from component and block surfaces or can be written off by all components not being at peak load at the same time.

Using the test info determined here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator

We see that, using those extreme rpm fans, a 480 radiator can handle about 425 watts ... leaving you a bit short, even at these extreme speeds. And hence the question at the beginning... what are the goals for the system ? When we build custom water loops for folks, the designs are based upon 1200 rpm fans such that under most usages (including high end gaming), the fans will spin from 350 - 850 rpm and thereby be totally inaudible. With that build, I would be looking at 7 or 8 x 120mm of rad or 7 x 140mm in order to obtain a "quiet room" . Again, your goals may vary, if you will be playing games with headphones on, you won't care about noise but again, noise reduction is what pushed people to custom loops.

If as you said, you are going for silence, then 2200 rpm fans will not deliver that. This is what 2000+ rpm fans sound like (H100i)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTf0Vq1j4Ec&feature=youtu.be

When CPU load hits 55% I gonna leave the room.

As to the RAM, the likelihood of two separate packages working together decreased w/ increased speed. With DDR3, 1333 and 1660 were almost never a problem, 1866 was a reasonable bet + 2133 was iffy and 2400 was asking for trouble.

I don't as yet have as much experience with DDR4, mostly because buys have wisened up and i don't have to deal w/ separate packages. But I don't understand why you would make this choice

Option A - But two separate packages and YOU take the risk that they will work. if they don't you have no warranty coverage so an exchange with the manufacturer is out of the question.

Option B - You buy the same RAM from the same manufacturer at the same speed, at the same timings in a single package. You pay less money and you have full warranty coverage. If any stick ever fails, they send you a new compete set of 4 sticks.

The question therfore has to be asked, what is it in Option A that makes it a better choice.

 

[Flibbi_boi]

Radiator Selection

GPU = 266 watts peak gaming (stock)
GPU Power Limiter Range = +50% w/ OC
CPU Power = 130 watts (OC'd)

let's forget the 50% thing and assume your GPU OC only draws an extra 20%.

Heat Load = 130 (CPU) + 2 x 266 x 120% (GPUs) + 12 watts (pump) or 780 watts.

Your radiator core will be expected to handle roughly 60% of that load or 468 watts, the rest being radiated from component and block surfaces or can be written off by all components not being at peak load at the same time.

Using the test info determined here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator

We see that, using those extreme rpm fans, a 480 radiator can handle about 425 watts ... leaving you a bit short, even at these extreme speeds. And hence the question at the beginning... what are the goals for the system ? When we build custom water loops for folks, the designs are based upon 1200 rpm fans such that under most usages (including high end gaming), the fans will spin from 350 - 850 rpm and thereby be totally inaudible. With that build, I would be looking at 7 or 8 x 120mm of rad or 7 x 140mm in order to obtain a "quiet room" . Again, your goals may vary, if you will be playing games with headphones on, you won't care about noise but again, noise reduction is what pushed people to custom loops.

If as you said, you are going for silence, then 2200 rpm fans will not deliver that. This is what 2000+ rpm fans sound like (H100i)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTf0Vq1j4Ec&feature=youtu.be

When CPU load hits 55% I gonna leave the room.

As to the RAM, the likelihood of two separate packages working together decreased w/ increased speed. With DDR3, 1333 and 1660 were almost never a problem, 1866 was a reasonable bet + 2133 was iffy and 2400 was asking for trouble.

I don't as yet have as much experience with DDR4, mostly because buys have wisened up and i don't have to deal w/ separate packages. But I don't understand why you would make this choice

Option A - But two separate packages and YOU take the risk that they will work. if they don't you have no warranty coverage so an exchange with the manufacturer is out of the question.

Option B - You buy the same RAM from the same manufacturer at the same speed, at the same timings in a single package. You pay less money and you have full warranty coverage. If any stick ever fails, they send you a new compete set of 4 sticks.

The question therfore has to be asked, what is it in Option A that makes it a better choice.

So basically I need like a 1200 watt psu and a 480 mm radiator at the least? Please tell me the parts I might need to make a loop

 

[JackNaylorPE]

No...

A. As I had recommended above, you need a 800 - 950 watt 1050 watt PSU if overclocking

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/gigabyte_aorus_gtx_1080_ti_xtreme_gaming_review,8.html

Here is Guru3D's power supply recommendation:

Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti - On your average system the card requires you to have a 600~650 Watts power supply unit.
Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SLI - On your average system the card requires you to have a 800~950 Watts power supply unit.

If you are going to overclock your GPU or processor, then we do recommend you purchase something with some more stamina.

B. If you want a silent system, you would need TWO 480mm radiators.

To go any further, you'd have to decide on a case. For something of this magnitude, I'd star looking at the Enthoo Primo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIpoC65bpX4

Here's a build we did back in 2013 in a Primo with 5 x 140mm of radiator ....

420 x 140 (45mm thick) on top
280 x 140 (60mm thick) on bottom

Pic taken before the pull fans were installed and before custom cables were done

You can download a dimensional drawing here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/990#post_21100122

 

[Flibbi_boi]

No...

A. As I had recommended above, you need a 800 - 950 watt 1050 watt PSU if overclocking

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/gigabyte_aorus_gtx_1080_ti_xtreme_gaming_review,8.html

Here is Guru3D's power supply recommendation:

Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti - On your average system the card requires you to have a 600~650 Watts power supply unit.
Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SLI - On your average system the card requires you to have a 800~950 Watts power supply unit.

If you are going to overclock your GPU or processor, then we do recommend you purchase something with some more stamina.

B. If you want a silent system, you would need TWO 480mm radiators.

To go any further, you'd have to decide on a case. For something of this magnitude, I'd star looking at the Enthoo Primo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIpoC65bpX4

Here's a build we did back in 2013 in a Primo with 5 x 140mm of radiator ....

420 x 140 (45mm thick) on top
280 x 140 (60mm thick) on bottom

Pic taken before the pull fans were installed and before custom cables were done

You can download a dimensional drawing here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/990#post_21100122

Ok there is a case that can support 3 480mm radiators. I have a thermaltake core p5 case currently can the radiator that can support that is a core p7. It's basically the same thing with an extension on both sides. Do you thing it's possible to upgrade my case to that?

 

[amtseung]

If you're going to use soft tubing, I wouldn't use the thin-walled 10/13 stuff. Kinks/collapses really easily. 10/16 is much easier to work with, albeit stiffer and less floppy. In American units (not imperial, American), that would be 3/8 ID 5/8 OD for a 1/8" wall rather than a 1/16" wall.

I also wouldn't get a core P7 right off the bat just to shove radiators onto. Since you're using soft tubing, which makes it much easier to add/subtract loop components, I'd start with the single 480 and experiment with noise/temps. If it's not enough, then maybe it's time to expand. This way, you spend less up front and end up with what's actually needed. I highly doubt a 480 rad can't handle all of that at stock settings while more goodies are on the way.

I'd also recommend getting some 90 degree rotary fittings. Makes the process of forming cleaning tubing runs way easier.

 

[Flibbi_boi]

If you're going to use soft tubing, I wouldn't use the thin-walled 10/13 stuff. Kinks/collapses really easily. 10/16 is much easier to work with, albeit stiffer and less floppy. In American units (not imperial, American), that would be 3/8 ID 5/8 OD for a 1/8" wall rather than a 1/16" wall.

I also wouldn't get a core P7 right off the bat just to shove radiators onto. Since you're using soft tubing, which makes it much easier to add/subtract loop components, I'd start with the single 480 and experiment with noise/temps. If it's not enough, then maybe it's time to expand. This way, you spend less up front and end up with what's actually needed. I highly doubt a 480 rad can't handle all of that at stock settings while more goodies are on the way.

I'd also recommend getting some 90 degree rotary fittings. Makes the process of forming cleaning tubing runs way easier.

Thx, will I need dual pumps if I get dual radiators

 

[amtseung]

Thx, will I need dual pumps if I get dual radiators

Depends largely on layout, so I cannot say for sure without seeing it in person. Most likely not though. I wouldn't worry about dual pumps right now, and focus more on having enough raddage and having enough case to fit said raddage.