WATERCOOLING DIAGRAM (comments needed)

[09rodney17]

guys, i need some comments on this water cooling system. it is a stock cooling system of a powermac g5 dual 2.7 Ghz and i would like to add some parts on it to cool it down.

thanks in advance!

 

[simon12]

I am no expert (and not familiar with the case or stock cooling on your machine) but if you want to cool it just a bit you could just get better fans on the existing radiators or add another small rad to the loop. If you want to cool it alot leave the loop you have for 1 processor and add another for the other.

 

[welshmousepk]

You've got rads in all the right places, just add better fans or replace with bigger rads.

 

[09rodney17]

I am no expert (and not familiar with the case or stock cooling on your machine) but if you want to cool it just a bit you could just get better fans on the existing radiators or add another small rad to the loop. If you want to cool it alot leave the loop you have for 1 processor and add another for the other.

my unit is apple powermac g5.

 

[09rodney17]

You've got rads in all the right places, just add better fans or replace with bigger rads.

does the thermaltake turbo fan 120mm works great?

 

[welshmousepk]

Yeah they should be fine. are your temps too high? or are you just looking for better cooling?

with that setup, i wouldn't expect any issues. a better CPU waterblock would probably help though, but im not familiar with that particular model or its quality.

 

[09rodney17]

im after a better cooling. the stocks peaks at 88 deg C before. im going to replace the cpu waterblocks with enzotech SNBW- SLi waterblocks because the core area of the Procs was the same exactly as the northbridge chipset of the PC mobos.

check out my new diagram.

is there any issues about the pressures in my 2nd revision? it is having a 3/8 fittings.

 

[simon12]

Definitely not good as all or most of the water will only cool 1 processor.

 

[rubix_1011]

OK, first, I am not sure what is supposed to be the front/back since you have airflow labeled on here. Second, what size are these radiators, what kinds, what size tubing, what fans, what CPUs...?

CPU blocks...run in series, not parallel.

Edit: I did a quick Google on your G5. It looks like a mess to work with, however, what components are you getting rid of and what is being replaced...what is going to be left stock? You could make this work, but its going to be a lot of DIY depending on the components. You'd almost be better off tossing most of the stock cooling system and seeing what you have left.

 

[Motopsychojdn]

The first thing you want the water to hit after the pump is your cpu's, not your Rad,
I cant say what rad sizes to use etc, you know your case better than I,
but order of flow should (Imo) be,
Res>Pump>Cpu1>Cpu2>Rad>Return to Res,
You'll get much better pressure on the chips than if they are last in the loop, thereby getting the heat away from them faster
The 2 fans on the right side of the picture aren't going to contribute to cooling the water at all,maybe look to moving them where they will be cooling something like blowing onto gfx card?
And set the fans hugging the Rad to exhaust, you really want to blow all the hot air INTO your case?
Moto

 

[rubix_1011]

In reality, it doesn't matter much where in your loop each component actually goes since the water remains fairly consistent in temps throughout the loop...prob within 1-5 degree Celsius range. There isn't a sharp spike when water leaves a block in the loop like is thought.

 

[Conumdrum]

Actually Skinnee has tested many loops. He verified it when he vetted this article.
http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/

In a normal loop it's only 1-3 C and many loops will be closer to 2 C.

Splitting the loop can really hurt the CPU block performance. You need xx flowrates to cause turbulence.........................bahhh, explained here... can't find post grrr.

Turbulence is needed inside modern blocks. You need every molecue you can get to touch the copper and absorb heat. If the flow rate (yours because your splitting it and it ain't high with that pump they have) is low the flow lazily flow in the block, and it performs poorly.

You sir, need bigger radiators. You use the word mini radiator. I think that case is HUGE. Please look up a Swiftech MCR 220 or a 320. Use it.

 

[09rodney17]

here's my 3rd lay-out

i hope this would work. i removed the reservoir because my rad will serve as the reservoir. it (rad ) has the dimensions of 7 in (height) X 6.5 in (wide) approximately. and its 2 rows aluminum.

 

[simon12]

It looks better but why do you want to remove the reservoir it will make the system hard to fill?

 

[09rodney17]

i am thinking about the loss of temp from the rad to the pump. if i add the res between the rad and pump what will be the differences?

or insulate the reservoir from the outside temp? what do you think?

 

[simon12]

I am no expert (I have never watercooled but should get my 1st setup later today) I just thought there is no advantage to have no reservoir and I thought the having more water in the system was always better.

 

[09rodney17]

up

 

[Conumdrum]

The res has no fins. It's ability to dissipate or absorb heat is soooo small don't worry about it. Or the pump heat. It's 24 watts from that pump. Filling a loop without a res right before it has a tendicey to burn out the ceramic bearing. It HAS to have water on it at all times. Use the res please. A res is a very important part of a loop. You need to remove the bubbles as it bleeds for a few days and to fill the loop.

The radiator is aluminum channels too? Then you have to worry about dissimilar metals, copper and aluminum. Corrision buildup on the copper blocks.

The stock G5 rad is very very inefficient too. Get rid of it. Get a proper watercooling rad that is copper/brass and MUCH more efficient.. Your blocks and pumps are real watercooling parts, finish it off.

 

[09rodney17]

Best answer selected by 09rodney17.

 

[09rodney17]

thanks conum!

 

[09rodney17]

The res has no fins. It's ability to dissipate or absorb heat is soooo small don't worry about it. Or the pump heat. It's 24 watts from that pump. Filling a loop without a res right before it has a tendicey to burn out the ceramic bearing. It HAS to have water on it at all times. Use the res please. A res is a very important part of a loop. You need to remove the bubbles as it bleeds for a few days and to fill the loop.

The radiator is aluminum channels too? Then you have to worry about dissimilar metals, copper and aluminum. Corrision buildup on the copper blocks.

The stock G5 rad is very very inefficient too. Get rid of it. Get a proper watercooling rad that is copper/brass and MUCH more efficient.. Your blocks and pumps are real watercooling parts, finish it off.[/quotemsg]

PS:

(Your blocks and pumps are real watercooling parts ) do you mean the stock blocks? or the enzotech snbw-sli?

 

[09rodney17]

PS:

(Your blocks and pumps are real watercooling parts ) do you mean the stock blocks? or the enzotech snbw-sli?

 

[Conumdrum]

Dunno about the stock blocks. If they are copper and your not overclocking why not continue using them.

I replied about the enzo blocks in your other thread.