Watercooling Questions

[Bephwyn]

Currently thinking about buying an i7 rig and watercooling the CPU and video card.

Planning to get GTX 295 and i7 920, and just have a question about quick-disconnects.

Case : Coolermaster HAF 932

Radiator: http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=585

ID 1/2" Clear Tubing from Koolance

GTX 295 Waterblock: http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=778

i7 Waterblock: http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=755

566 ml Reservoir: http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=653

My questions are that do I need barbs and quick-disconnects, or just quick-disconnects? Where can I find 1/2" ID quick-disconnects on Koolance's website?

 

[Conumdrum]

Two things. That rad will not keep even just your CPU cool, especially if you overclock. It has aluminum in it, mixed metals in a loop cause corrosion down the road with the copper parts etc.

The GPU block and CPU block are pretty well rated. Unfortunately the CPU block is very flow restrictive and should be run in it's own loop. Meaning it's own rad and pump etc.

The GPU is a very hot one, and at load will generate quite a bit over 300 watts of heat by itself.

If you do attempt to make one loop you will need a rad like this, and I'm not kidding.

http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=371&cat=99&page=1

And you'll need a strong pump. The DDC 3.2 with a quality aftermarket top is as low as I would go. Thats $100

I went top notch and spent close to $600 to cool my CPU and GPU.
First you gotta learn about WC. It's not like walking into Best Buy.
Spend a while (weeks is best for your sanity) at these links.
Look at the hundreds of loops close to your case and components in the stickies, read a couple 50 or so threads over the next week or so, you'll be on the ball to make the right choices and by then know how to put it together.
Not 'Roket Sience', but basic knowledge is required.
And you should spend a few hours on this site reading threads. It's how we learn. Once the goodies show up on your doorstep your on your own.
For your benefit please spend a few days reading a LOT. At the busiest places for WC masters. Guys who have done it for YEARS at OC forums and xtreme forums. It took me a while (I was OCing on air, aftermarket stuff, bios settings, best chipsets etc etc) to learn the language and the tricks to a easy install.

Don't expect miracles or SUPER DOOPER over clocks. What you will get is a quiet system that can handle OC to the max of your hardware IF you buy quality and buy smart. And minor maintenance too, a bonus for the water cooler.

Also while there please read on case mods etc. The radiators are not for small cases, pumps and hose routing, wire management and other things are important. Google your planned case and the word water-cooled in one line. You might get lucky.
.............................
Edit: The next paragraph was from 2008. With the advent of the HOT i7 and bigger GPU's, it has changed. A 220 size MIN for an i7, you want good temps and have warm summers, better go 320 sized rad for the CPU.
...................................

IF you just cool your CPU and your NB if you want, you can get by with a 120.2 sized radiator (RAD). And MAYBE fit in inside depending on your mod skillz. You want to cool your GPU too, you'll need a 120.3 sized rad, and it probably won't fit inside. The rear external rad really works great. No matter what your adding 15lbs to your PC, maybe 20lbs.

Once you got an idea of what is good/bad then start getting your system for WC put together and we'll be glad to help.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/index.php? Not a noob site, but great stickies
http://www.skinneelabs.com/MartinsLiquidLab/
http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/inde [...] opic=20277 A GREAT Europe site
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/
http://translate.google.com/transl [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing
http://skinneelabs.com/
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=282232

Stores
http://www.dangerden.com/index.php [...] e&Itemid=1
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/

 

[Bephwyn]

What you said...

Wow, would have thought Koolance would have been smarter and used copper in the radiator. Gonna avoid that, because galvanization (sp?) sucks.

I could do 2 separate lines in the HAF 932, with 2 x 240mm radiators on the side panel. High CFM fans (100+ and 37 DBA) or Lower CFM fans (50 CFM and 15-25DBA)? Going to buy the dual 5.25" bay reservior, put 2 of those in there.

Would that work?

 

[rubix_1011]

Are you meaning 2 separate loops, or just splitting and running parallel? You really don't need a reservoir, let alone 2 of those monsters, but it's your build...it won't hurt anything. A T-line would work as well. You can probably get away with running a single loop, even with your GTX295, but make sure you have enough cooling capacity of your radiators to handle the heat dispersion. You are going to want at least a single 320 rad just for the card alone...220 or bigger for that i7, like Conumdrum stated. I personally haven't used Koolance, but there is a reason...anyone who has done watercooling for any length of time knows it's pretty much junk or low end as far as potential.

Ditch the Koolance stuff and go with DangerDen (GPU blocks), Swiftech, EK, D-tek, Thermochill, Feser...etc.

 

[Bephwyn]

Are you meaning 2 separate loops, or just splitting and running parallel? You really don't need a reservoir, let alone 2 of those monsters, but it's your build...it won't hurt anything. A T-line would work as well. You can probably get away with running a single loop, even with your GTX295, but make sure you have enough cooling capacity of your radiators to handle the heat dispersion. You are going to want at least a single 320 rad just for the card alone...220 or bigger for that i7, like Conumdrum stated. I personally haven't used Koolance, but there is a reason...anyone who has done watercooling for any length of time knows it's pretty much junk or low end as far as potential.

Ditch the Koolance stuff and go with DangerDen (GPU blocks), Swiftech, EK, D-tek, Thermochill, Feser...etc.

Yeah, took a look at the DD stuff, going to buy from there. Bye, bye Koolance .

http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=338

Thinking about putting 3 of these rads together, with 2 on the side for the GTX 295 and 1 at the top for the i7. Gonna use 2 T-junc's for the GTX 295 loop. Or is that too much, and 2 rads will just be fine?

http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=175&cat=23&page=1#tabs

Two of these pumps should be enough for 2 1/2" ID tubing loops, right?

 

[Conumdrum]

Actually, now your looking at a complex loop. I dunno your background.

What do you mean a T junction? If you mean a parellel loop I think it's a BAD idea. if that's what you meant you got some reading to do. Pay attention to the importance of flow rates.

Two of those rads and good fans will be close, but might work. Bump one rad to 320 sized and you'll be fine. I'd make TWO loops, but whatever. Physics and rad capabilities and a thing called 'Delta T' mean a lot.

I spent a few months learning before I went water. I gave ya all the links to get ya started. Whats the rush?

 

[stoner133]

Actually your first setup would have been excellent if you would have just used a different radiator. Now you want to buy everything from DD which on the pump alone is going to cost you more then what it would have cost you to buy it from Koolance (same pump). Instead of the CPU-350 waterblock from Koolance for the single loop you should run the CPU-345.

On a side note: Has anyone been able to get to the xtremesystems.org site? Haven't been able to get to it for the last three days here.

 

[Conumdrum]

Fugger was going to SSD drives on the site, guess he's having major issues. I miss it to greatly.

And Beph, if you meant parelling rads it's a uncommon but okay usage. Seen it done. But series is best. Remember every fitting, clamp, ft of tubing reduces your flow rate. Try to keep the loop as simple as possible. It gets complex for flow rates, but 1 GPM min is advised. Easy to test, once all hooked up add extra tubing and get a 10 gallon container, fill it for suction, the other end in the sink, ack after the loop is bled of bubbles etc.... too much work for me.