[SOLVED] What can I do when suddenly my games perform worse?

[ficholinie]

So I have my PC for around 2 years and it always was able to play the newest games on beautiful graphics and smoothly. Like GTA V or Star Wars Battlefront 2. Recently all of my games started to look uglier, render slower, have much shorter drawing distance/LOD. Even graphically inferior games which require hardware which is a decade old. I even fully defragged my PC and formated it. I got all of my newest drivers and I even tried overclocking (which always causes a crash). The biggest issue is that games just render things very slowly nowadays.
Specs:
OS:Windows 10 Home 64-Bit
Processor: Intel Core i7 6700 @ 3.40GHz
RAM: 16,0GB Dual-Channel Unknown @ 1064MHz (15-15-15-36)
Motherboard: MSI H110M PRO-D (MS-7996) (U3E1
GPU: 8192MB ATI Radeon RX 480 Graphics
PSU:HEC-300TC-2WB

 

[Ralston18]

PSU = HEC-300TC-2WB, 300 watts - correct?

Disk drive(s): make and models?
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If that PSU is only 300 watts and around 2 years old then the PSU would be my first suspect.

Add up the wattage requirements for all installed PC components and add 25%. Be sure that the PSU is able to support the wattage load being required of it.

Have you physically opened your computer for cleaning and maintenance.? Ensure that all cables and components are fully and firmly connected. Blow out accumulated dust and debris.

Determine if cleaning and maintenance ends or reduces the problems.

 

[ficholinie]

PSU = HEC-300TC-2WB, 300 watts - correct?

Disk drive(s): make and models?
\
If that PSU is only 300 watts and around 2 years old then the PSU would be my first suspect.

Add up the wattage requirements for all installed PC components and add 25%. Be sure that the PSU is able to support the wattage load being required of it.

Have you physically opened your computer for cleaning and maintenance.? Ensure that all cables and components are fully and firmly connected. Blow out accumulated dust and debris.

Determine if cleaning and maintenance ends or reduces the problems.

Yes, the PSU has 300 watts. And how do I add up wattage requirements? If there is a programm for that it would be nice.

Hard Disk Drive: Hitachi HDS721010CLA332
I cannot say when it was made since my PC was purchased from the previous owner.

And yes, I did cleaning and maintenance. I vacuumed it carefully.

 

[Ralston18]

To get the required wattage total make a list of all installed components.

Then check the respective manufacturer's websites for the recommended/required wattage for each component per make and model. Remember that those recommended wattages were likely established under ideal conditions.

Or you can use/try average power consumption for individual components.

For example:

http://www.buildcomputers.net/power-consumption-of-pc-components.html

Use the high end if a voltage range is presented. For GPU use the Load Power draw.

Remember to include any additional power demands for overclocking, extra cooling fans, etc. May be minor in some ways but it all does add up very quickly.

There are also online calculators to help do the calculations but you still need the applicable make and model information. And there are mixed views about the reliability and/or accuracy of such calculators.

I recommend you do your own manual wattage tally plus the results from two or three online calculators with the intend being to achieve some general consensus with respect the wattage total.

 

[ficholinie]

To get the required wattage total make a list of all installed components.

Then check the respective manufacturer's websites for the recommended/required wattage for each component per make and model. Remember that those recommended wattages were likely established under ideal conditions.

Or you can use/try average power consumption for individual components.

For example:

http://www.buildcomputers.net/power-consumption-of-pc-components.html

Use the high end if a voltage range is presented. For GPU use the Load Power draw.

Remember to include any additional power demands for overclocking, extra cooling fans, etc. May be minor in some ways but it all does add up very quickly.

There are also online calculators to help do the calculations but you still need the applicable make and model information. And there are mixed views about the reliability and/or accuracy of such calculators.

I recommend you do your own manual wattage tally plus the results from two or three online calculators with the intend being to achieve some general consensus with respect the wattage total.

Alright, so 2 calculators seem to recommend me to use at least 442W, so it means I have to switch out my PSU, correct? There is no other way around? Also thank you for your help.

 

[Ralston18]

Doubt that you can avoid getting a new PSU.

If the existing PSU is having problems it is not going to get better under the current circumstances.

FYI:

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-psus,4229.html

 

[ficholinie]

Doubt that you can avoid getting a new PSU.

If the existing PSU is having problems it is not going to get better under the current circumstances.

FYI:

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-psus,4229.html

Alright, I will give it a shot and buy a better one, I will keep you informed how it went so other people may can use it too. But I am curious why the PSU worked perfectly back then and now is the issue.

 

[Ralston18]

PSU's, like all other electronic products and products in general, can and do fail.

Many possible reasons but most likely poor quality, some design flaw, cheap components, and actual usage - even if within stated specifications.

Final assembly testing, inspections, etc. are likely cursory if done at all. Quality Assurance very much a rubber stamp process, There is a rush to get things done and out the door. Shipped on time is one thing, shipping the correct, working product is another.

Counterfeit products are a big problem in many places.

All in all it is cheaper to replaced a failed product than to repair it.

And with so much being purchased online the buyer no longer has the option to physically look at the actual item being purchased. On a store shelf you at least have the ability (sometimes) to assess if the product is damaged, low quality, a previous return, or not exactly as advertised. (Beware the words "compatible with"....)

As for RMA's companies, vendors, etc. can make that as easy or as difficult as they wish. They already have your money.

"Caveat emptor".