Discussion What do you think about these visual upgrades?

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Karadjgne

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No. If it has 'Lite' anywhere in the name it's guaranteed a cut-down, cheapest component and manufacturing process possible. None of the Lite psus or aios are built to last. 3 year throw away products.
https://gigatron.rs/kuleri-i-oprema...sor-freezer-34-esports-duo-acfre00075a-402083

Arctic sealed up the sides of that tower, forcing all the air to travel the full length of the cooler. With traditional towers like the hyper212, much of the air bleeds out the sides, after really not going through the finstack or past the heatpipes where the fins have the highest concentration of heat. Much more efficient, and therefor effective.

The Duo is on the same level as a Cryorig H5, Darkrock 3 or 4 etc. One step up from budget class 140w coolers. It goes toe to toe with a Noctua NH-U12S at a fraction of the cost.
 
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No. If it has 'Lite' anywhere in the name it's guaranteed a cut-down, cheapest component and manufacturing process possible. None of the Lite psus or aios are built to last. 3 year throw away products.
https://gigatron.rs/kuleri-i-oprema...sor-freezer-34-esports-duo-acfre00075a-402083
Perfect,thanks for the input.
Is there a performance difference between the black version you linked and the red one i wanted?
I think red would match my build and setup better.
 
I noticed now that the one you linked is DUO,which means 2 fans instead of 1.
I can just paint the cooler a bit in red to follow my theme if i want,since im sure you linked the DUO for a reason.
 
Not really that efficient cooler. For 4core/4thread cpu it's fine. 10400F is 6core/12thread cpu. You'll need a better cpu cooler.
The 10400F has fairly moderate clocks though, and isn't an unlocked processor, so one won't be pushing the silicon to its limits and producing a disproportionately large amount of heat. Even a 212 Evo is significantly better than the tiny stock cooler Intel includes with that processor, so I would hardly say that a better cooler than that is "needed". A better cooler might be able to manage lower temperatures while keeping its fans running quieter at lower speeds, but shouldn't likely be a requirement for one of these locked i5s.

I noticed now that the one you linked is DUO,which means 2 fans instead of 1.
I can just paint the cooler a bit in red to follow my theme if i want,since im sure you linked the DUO for a reason.
Based on reviews from around its release, the Freezer 34 eSports tends to perform almost as well with one fan as it does with two, so both are viable options. At the time of it's release, there was often only like a US $5 difference between the versions with one fan or two though, so the dual version made some sense, even if just to use the second fan somewhere else, though that may depend on what kind of prices you are seeing. You also might consider a Freezer 33 if you can find one at a lower price, as it's a slightly older version of the cooler that tends to perform fairly similar, though with somewhat different fans.
 
The 10400F has fairly moderate clocks though, and isn't an unlocked processor, so one won't be pushing the silicon to its limits and producing a disproportionately large amount of heat. Even a 212 Evo is significantly better than the tiny stock cooler Intel includes with that processor, so I would hardly say that a better cooler than that is "needed". A better cooler might be able to manage lower temperatures while keeping its fans running quieter at lower speeds, but shouldn't likely be a requirement for one of these locked i5s.


Based on reviews from around its release, the Freezer 34 eSports tends to perform almost as well with one fan as it does with two, so both are viable options. At the time of it's release, there was often only like a US $5 difference between the versions with one fan or two though, so the dual version made some sense, even if just to use the second fan somewhere else, though that may depend on what kind of prices you are seeing. You also might consider a Freezer 33 if you can find one at a lower price, as it's a slightly older version of the cooler that tends to perform fairly similar, though with somewhat different fans.
While they perform the same,what are the noise differences?
I suspect since there are 2 fans,they have to work less to cool the cpu,but on the other hand,since there are 2 of them,running them close to 100% would be a noise nightmare.
 
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Ok i have this idea.
Since i currently have RAIDMAX NEON RGB case, and as m`2uch as you think the front looks cool with the RGB fans, trust me its disgusting since the front is all dusty and you can see the dust its just yuck.
Now on the psu shroud, you can see that there are wholes who just by chance fit 2x120mm fans perfectly.
Im thinking of moving 2 of the fans on the front (top one and the one in the middle) and while it will almost certanly look better imo, how will it affect GPU temps tho?
Do i mount them to be intake or exhaust,or does it even matter?
 
A9ZNS201111i3276.jpg

A9ZNS2011117xt6b.jpg

there is only a bottom vent directly under the PSU. so you will get little to no cool air intake from these fans.

if you want to do a little modding;
remove the drive tray and drill out a few hundred holes to create your own air vent in the bottom-front.
then have one fan pulling air directly from the bottom, and another pulling cool air into the front-bottom.
plus another two in the PSU shroud to ensure the air gets into the case interior.

this type of setup can drastically lower GPU temps, having cool air pushed directly into it's own fans.
while still providing some cool air for the rest of the components.

so this would mean;
1x intake in the front-bottom
1x intake in the bottom-front
1x exhaust in the rear
1x exhaust in the top
2x PSU shroud mounted, pushing air upwards
Wrong case, i linked the one i have.
 
Should i buy the newer version of the case?
i wouldn't. it's still not a very good design and got some pretty bad user reviews.

if you're interested in a new case, i've got a "wish" list i created over a year or so of searching for a new one.
all of them are from mid to full size ATX, with very nice airflow, good fan mounting options, and good interior space to work with. most ranging from ~$70+.

even with all of the hardware shortages currently going on, there' still quite a few available there on NewEgg and most can be found on Amazon or other retailers.
NewEgg, Cases shopping list
 
i wouldn't. it's still not a very good design and got some pretty bad user reviews.

if you're interested in a new case, i've got a "wish" list i created over a year or so of searching for a new one.
all of them are from mid to full size ATX, with very nice airflow, good fan mounting options, and good interior space to work with. most ranging from ~$70+.

even with all of the hardware shortages currently going on, there' still quite a few available there on NewEgg and most can be found on Amazon or other retailers.
NewEgg, Cases shopping list
Your linkdoesnt show the cases for me, can you create a pcpartpicker list or something?
You dont need to, just if you want : )
 
this should be a "public" link to the same list, see if this one works.
https://secure.newegg.com/wishlist/pd/34786767

i would suggest sorting it by lowest price, some of them are currently listed insanely expensive
This one works.
Sadly the ones that are available in my country are above 150$.
Hmmmm....
I cant decide yet for sure, maybe i will go with the HAF X after all, who knows.
So can i move those 2 fans under the GPU, as i dont think it will matter for the GPU?
Just aesthetic reasons...
 
having fans pulling from or pushing to a solid surface will create a lot of noise.
if the fans have separate RGB cables, just don't plug in the RPM control and only use their RGB cable.
but if you only want them for aesthetic reasons, maybe just get an aRGB light strip or something.

if you are up to modding the case yourself, you could still make it work.
though it's a bit difficult to get everything perfect when working with metal.
sometimes involves quite a bit of shaving and re-painting to really appear as manufacturer quality.
considering that it was a cheap case you may not be keeping anyway, you could just treat it as an experiment or learning experience.

drill holes in the top for proper exhaust ventilation.

you could still mod the bottom in the same way i mentioned for the NEW version.
but you'd also have to do the same for the entire PSU shroud to allow the cool air into the interior.

or possibly the easiest solution;
as i mentioned earlier, just totally remove the clear front panel,
create your own screen\mesh front panel that could be anchored in place that would really just be a simple dust filter,
leave the 3x front intakes there,
and still create a top-rear vent and place a second exhaust fan there.
you should be able to find some pretty fine mesh\window screen at any decent hardware store for fairly cheap.
Sadly the ones that are available in my country are above 150$.
consider that you really get what you pay for with quality PC cases.
when i'm looking for one, i usually plan on paying between $100-200.
 
Thank you for the suggestions @JohnBonhamsGhost , but i think i would rather buy a new case.
The thing is the that the total cost of all the materials that are needed for the driling and repairing are going to cost more than a new case in my country atleast.
I still havent decided if im going to go with a new case, or mod the HAF X.
Im more a DYI guy, but this case is really a disaster, and i dont have much money to waist.
Do you happen to know how load the HAF X gets?
And are the fans that come with it PWM or just molex fans?
 
If im going with the HAF X, i would probably go for this fan and change it to be my front panel one, but i will see about that since i might like the RED LED 230mm one.
For the rear im probably going with this one.
And add another 200mm one the top since the case comes with only 1x200mm in the top.
So i will have one big 230mm on the front, 1x140mm on the back, and 2x200m on the top.
So that are the fan replacements.
Now as i said above, im going to cut the existing side panel and leave 1 or 2cm around the edge, and in that big cutout i will fit one big tempered glass panel.
There is one problem.
How do i mount the glass panel to the cutout?
 
Do you happen to know how load the HAF X gets?
And are the fans that come with it PWM or just molex fans?
most cases that came out in that time period had low quality DC fans, possibly molex or just regular 3-pin.
if Cooler Master still has a product page for that case, it could list what fans are included.

i had a couple Corsair cases from that time period that came with 200mm fans and though they were static(non-PWM), they were fairly quiet.
most large(180mm+) fans are fairly quiet because they don't run at very high RPM. but they still move quite a bit of air so even at lower RPMs they should be good.

if the case specs states what fans are included, you should be able to find those fan's product specs and see what the decibel rating is. the same with any others you would want to purchase.
 
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most cases that came out in that time period had low quality DC fans, possibly molex or just regular 3-pin.
if Cooler Master still has a product page for that case, it could list what fans are included.

i had a couple Corsair cases from that time period that came with 200mm fans and though they were static(non-PWM), they were fairly quiet.
most large(180mm+) fans are fairly quiet because they don't run at very high RPM. but they still move quite a bit of air so even at lower RPMs they should be good.

if the case specs states what fans are included, you should be able to find those fan's product specs and see what the decibel rating is. the same with any others you would want to purchase.
The cooler master still has the HAF X on their page, ill take a look at what fans it has.
Thoughts on the glass panel 'issue'?
 
There is one problem.
How do i mount the glass panel to the cutout?
you would have to totally remove the side panel and cut the glass to use the same screws and fit the same space that the original side panel did.
just totally replacing the panel.

there would be no easy way, if any, to just attach it to a space cut out of the existing side panel.
*it really depends on the thickness of the metal side panel and the thickness of the glass if the side panel could support it being directly attached to a smaller cutout space.

you could glue some foam around the inside of the cutout space. and then bolt the glass to the metal on the inside of the side panel. utilizing the foam to keep the glass from vibrating against the metal.

but it should be much easier and nicer looking to just totally replace the side panel with a glass one that fits the same space and uses the same screws.
 
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you would have to totally remove the side panel and cut the glass to use the same screws and fit the same space that the original side panel did.
just totally replacing the panel.

there would be no easy way, if any, to just attach it to a space cut out of the existing side panel.
*it really depends on the thickness of the metal side panel and the thickness of the glass if the side panel could support it being directly attached to a smaller cutout space.

you could glue some foam around the inside of the cutout space. and then bolt the glass to the metal on the inside of the side panel. utilizing the foam to keep the glass from vibrating against the metal.

but it should be much easier and nicer looking to just totally replace the side panel with a glass one that fits the same space and uses the same screws.
"but it should be much easier and nicer looking to just totally replace the side panel with a glass one that fits the same space and uses the same screws."
Already thought about that.
There are no screws on the side panel, and drilling wholes in such a small space is almist imposible, hence my decision.
 
Or maybe something like this.
On this page, you can see many cutouts for the side panel to slide in.
Can i actually drill wholes in those tiny cutouts that will secure the side panel?
My biggest risk is that the side panel might not be safe, but who knows.
The case weighs 15kg so i asume these cutouts are not some chinese crap, and that they are actually solid.
If i could drill 4 holes and mount the glass panel safelly that would be the best and the easiest thing.
What are your thoughts about that?
 

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