[SOLVED] What is dying on my system?

Sheev Palpatine

Prominent
Dec 20, 2019
43
5
535
Can anyone help explain what might they think is dying on my system. For around a year now I have had to switch on and off the PSU switch quickly to power on the system once I have clicked the main power button. Also for around that period of time my GPU has had issues with two screens, where one is connected via HDMI which works fine but the DVI sometimes disconnects I have had to unplug and plug and sometimes mess around with it. The GPU fans work too, but CPUZ does not recognize it, and every time I plug the HDMI in my monitor takes longer than normal to say no signal. On top of that my internal integrated graphics is working, (for now) but it has very very faint fuzzy lines on screen. On top of that recently, my sound card will not work and also programs are starting to fail with no pre warning. HDD and SSD’s are completely fine, I test them every week.

So the motherboard, PSU or GPU, am so confused, at first I thought it was the motherboard but now am thinking is the PSU giving enough power to all components? I would not be surprised as it has been on 24/7 since 2013 but still want everyone’s opinion.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Solution
A dying PSU can cause all sorts of problems, the most common of which being trouble getting the system to turn on. That's often the first sign of a dying PSU.

The most common way PSUs die, especially models using low-quality capacitors like the old CX, is that capacitors dry up, reducing their ability to absorb switching transients. As those transients get worse, you may get glitches due to local regulators failing to filter the leftovers well enough to prevent glitches or trip protections and you get random crashes/reboots. Eventually, the transients may get bad enough to fry components. The DVI port on one of my monitors died due to me taking too long to open it and fix its dying PSU, only works on VGA input now.

Most vendors have...
Can anyone help explain what might they think is dying on my system. For around a year now I have had to switch on and off the PSU switch quickly to power on the system once I have clicked the main power button. Also for around that period of time my GPU has had issues with two screens, where one is connected via HDMI which works fine but the DVI sometimes disconnects I have had to unplug and plug and sometimes mess around with it. The GPU fans work too, but CPUZ does not recognize it, and every time I plug the HDMI in my monitor takes longer than normal to say no signal. On top of that my internal integrated graphics is working, (for now) but it has very very faint fuzzy lines on screen. On top of that recently, my sound card will not work and also programs are starting to fail with no pre warning. HDD and SSD’s are completely fine, I test them every week.

So the motherboard, PSU or GPU, am so confused, at first I thought it was the motherboard but now am thinking is the PSU giving enough power to all components? I would not be surprised as it has been on 24/7 since 2013 but still want everyone’s opinion.
Almost sounds like the power supply is tripping. If it’s kinda dusty I’d try to blow it out with a vacuum or can of air, I’ve also had similar issues with various cards plugged in over the years I’ve had faulty graphics cards trip the powersupply ,
 
Almost sounds like the power supply is tripping. If it’s kinda dusty I’d try to blow it out with a vacuum or can of air, I’ve also had similar issues with various cards plugged in over the years I’ve had faulty graphics cards trip the powersupply ,
Yeah it's been proper werid, never seen anything like it, took me weeks to try to see how to make it work, always have it switch on and off quickly XD. I cleaned it around two weeks ago with an air compressor from a few feet away from it. Not sure as half of me is like its the PSU and half is GPU but am thinking my sound card is not working sometimes, and my corsiar keyboard looks like it not getting enough power.
 
A dying PSU can cause all sorts of problems, the most common of which being trouble getting the system to turn on. That's often the first sign of a dying PSU.

The most common way PSUs die, especially models using low-quality capacitors like the old CX, is that capacitors dry up, reducing their ability to absorb switching transients. As those transients get worse, you may get glitches due to local regulators failing to filter the leftovers well enough to prevent glitches or trip protections and you get random crashes/reboots. Eventually, the transients may get bad enough to fry components. The DVI port on one of my monitors died due to me taking too long to open it and fix its dying PSU, only works on VGA input now.

Most vendors have better and worse PSU models often made by different PSU OEMs. The old Corsair CX were be passable if not poor quality, the new ones (2017 CX/CX-M 450/550/650W) are much better. SeaSonic's worst PSUs are on par with many lower-tier vendors' best and SeaSonic is the OEM behind many vendor's best PSUs too. Anything from SeaSonic would be way better than old CX.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sheev Palpatine
Solution
A dying PSU can cause all sorts of problems, the most common of which being trouble getting the system to turn on. That's often the first sign of a dying PSU.

The most common way PSUs die, especially models using low-quality capacitors like the old CX, is that capacitors dry up, reducing their ability to absorb switching transients. As those transients get worse, you may get glitches due to local regulators failing to filter the leftovers well enough to prevent glitches or trip protections and you get random crashes/reboots. Eventually, the transients may get bad enough to fry components. The DVI port on one of my monitors died due to me taking too long to open it and fix its dying PSU, only works on VGA input now.

Most vendors have better and worse PSU models often made by different PSU OEMs. The old Corsair CX were be passable if not poor quality, the new ones (2017 CX/CX-M 450/550/650W) are much better. SeaSonic's worst PSUs are on par with many lower-tier vendors' best and SeaSonic is the OEM behind many vendor's best PSUs too. Anything from SeaSonic would be way better than old CX.
Seems to make sense, in that case am suprised it lastest this long considering the amount I used it. I am worried now if I have damaged my GPU, or the motherboard. I forgot to mention my GPU is a MSI Radeon R9 270X Gaming Edition OC 2048MB GDDR5 PCI-Express. I migght buy a PSU for tomorrow and see how it goes.
 
Maths isn't exactly my strong point but pretty sure if you bought it in December 2012 that would make it 7 years old :)
My bad my maths is terriable, I got an F in school, XD. I was on my Nokia playing Snakes most of the time haha. I feel old having this rig for 7 years. Keep saying to myself am gonna buy a Corsair 900D or a Cosmos II but never get round to it.
 
Eww, absolutely no need for either one of those old, giant full towers. They had 2 design features of any importance back then. Massive ability for hdds and optical bays, and plenty of space for upto 4 gpus in sli/cf.

With the advent of the ssd, multi-Tb hdds etc, storage needs are less than ever for physical impact, you get more out of a single ssd than 4 old hdds in raid setup. Little need for anything more than 2 optical bays at best, most media is on USB now, it's faster by far than burning a cd/bd and more reliable data transfer.

And with gpus as capable as an rtx2060 for mainstream, and a RTX2080ti for uber enthusiasts, and DX12 having no support for sli, multiple gpus aren't necessary.

Using a full tower, when all that's necessary is an mATX mid tower would be like throwing a hotdog down a hallway, a massive waste of space.
 
Eww, absolutely no need for either one of those old, giant full towers. They had 2 design features of any importance back then. Massive ability for hdds and optical bays, and plenty of space for upto 4 gpus in sli/cf.

With the advent of the ssd, multi-Tb hdds etc, storage needs are less than ever for physical impact, you get more out of a single ssd than 4 old hdds in raid setup. Little need for anything more than 2 optical bays at best, most media is on USB now, it's faster by far than burning a cd/bd and more reliable data transfer.

And with gpus as capable as an rtx2060 for mainstream, and a RTX2080ti for uber enthusiasts, and DX12 having no support for sli, multiple gpus aren't necessary.

Using a full tower, when all that's necessary is an mATX mid tower would be like throwing a hotdog down a hallway, a massive waste of space.
XD am that kind of buy though. I have a 330R ATM, when I get a nerw rig I would probs just use it as a second or for the work. Do you think my GPU might be fried?
 
UPDATE: Bought the CX650 and no longer need to do that werid bypass to start the PC anymore. The fuzzy lines are still here, (MSI Intel onboard GPU). However the AMD GPU is not recognized by PC or even BIOS. The fans work but it doesn't connect. So am half thinking is it the motherboard or GPU card but no other issues exist on the motherboard. Might try and ask a mate if I can try the card in a rig of his.
 
Yeah the CPU works completely fine, no lag or anything, never been overclocked. I am on my way to CEX see if they have used 4GB until I get a proper system. I might ask them to test this one first. There is no signs of damage that I can see I might take it apart and see when I get another GPU.
 
If the GPU died from a momentary over-voltage due to excessively noisy PSU output freaking it out, there won't necessarily be any visible signs. If you have a multi-meter and probe voltage rails though, you may find that GPU core or memory voltage has a sub-0.5V reading in diode mode or sub-10 ohms reading for resistance, which both point toward an apparent short.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sheev Palpatine
If the GPU died from a momentary over-voltage due to excessively noisy PSU output freaking it out, there won't necessarily be any visible signs. If you have a multi-meter and probe voltage rails though, you may find that GPU core or memory voltage has a sub-0.5V reading in diode mode or sub-10 ohms reading for resistance, which both point toward an apparent short.
I see, I might test it tomorrow, went to CEX they could not help because I would have to sell it to test it when all I wanted is to plug it in XD. They had a EVGA 660 3GB but not much better than mine so figured I would go all out of OcUK. I might call it a day in this case and just buy another GPU, or I might try and test it tomorrow. Thanks for the advice though! an to every other person on here, much love.