Hello. I'm using the Amazon.com: Alphacool 11286 Eisbaer 360 CPU - Black Water Cooling Kits, Systems and AIOs: Computers & Accessories but the tubes don't reach the front of my pc case. Someone recommended to me I extend the tubes and add this: Amazon.com: Alphacool 15273 Eisstation VPP - Solo Reservoir Water Cooling Reservoirs: Computers & Accessories so it will reach and said it's needed to avoid air pockets in the extended lines. The issue is, I'm not sure of what parts I need to make this work. What tubes and fittings and parts do I need? Thanks as always. The people here have always been a great help.
Question What liquid cooling parts do I need?
- Thread starter Victel
- Start date
- Oct 7, 2009
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What is the make and model of your case and how are you orienting the AIO in said case? The tubes on any AIO are standardized whereby if you have the radiator mounted to the front with the tubes exiting out the top or have the radiator on the top of the chassis(internally) you shouldn't be having a problem.
Might want to pass a couple of pictures of your build and your potential loop in order for us to prevent you wasting money and probably solve the problem with out spending any more money on it.
Might want to pass a couple of pictures of your build and your potential loop in order for us to prevent you wasting money and probably solve the problem with out spending any more money on it.
I apologize for not providing the needed details. My case is the corsair 1000D. The cords simply aren't long enough. Here is a picture:
https://ibb.co/LrJrDG5
Last edited:
- Jan 12, 2007
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Can the radiator not reach the top of the case?
Otherwise, you'll need tubing that meets the inside and outside diameter of the fittings used, which won't be possible without disconnecting from the G1/4 fittings (not to be confused with the quick disconnect. Otherwise, I found the PDF by doing a bit of Google search - please make sure this is part of your fact-finding in the future:
https://www.performance-pcs.com/pro...9/name/Alphacool_Eisbaer_360_CPU_-_Black.pdf/
Page 4:
CPU Performance: Excellent
Hose dimensions: 11/8mm
Manufacturer: Alphacool
Prefilled: Yes
Radiator Thickness: 30mm
Radiator size: 3x120mm
Socket: AMD 604/771/G34, AMD 939/AM2/AM2 /AM3/AM3 /FM1/FM2, Intel 1150/1151/1155/1156, Intel 1366, Intel 2011, Intel 775
Otherwise, you'll need tubing that meets the inside and outside diameter of the fittings used, which won't be possible without disconnecting from the G1/4 fittings (not to be confused with the quick disconnect. Otherwise, I found the PDF by doing a bit of Google search - please make sure this is part of your fact-finding in the future:
https://www.performance-pcs.com/pro...9/name/Alphacool_Eisbaer_360_CPU_-_Black.pdf/
Page 4:
CPU Performance: Excellent
Hose dimensions: 11/8mm
Manufacturer: Alphacool
Prefilled: Yes
Radiator Thickness: 30mm
Radiator size: 3x120mm
Socket: AMD 604/771/G34, AMD 939/AM2/AM2 /AM3/AM3 /FM1/FM2, Intel 1150/1151/1155/1156, Intel 1366, Intel 2011, Intel 775
The top can't house a 360 radiator, only 140, 280 and 420. What tubing do I need and do I need a water reservoir? and what if i buy a 140 radiator, would I have any issues replacing the current one with a bigger one or a 140 such as this one:
Amazon.com: Alphacool 14555 NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 140mm Radiator V.2 Water Cooling Radiators: Computers & Accessories
Last edited:
- Jan 12, 2007
- 16,707
- 660
- 60,190
I can't tell you that, this is for you to determine your needs. This is why understanding what is needed for watercooling is best served to knowing for yourself.
What happens if I was actually someone who had no idea but gave you really bad information? Would you use that and buy my recommendations only to find they were all wrong?
As for top mounting, I find it interesting it can support a 420 but not a 360. A 420 rad is essentially a 3x140 where a 360 is a 3x120.
Either way, sounds like you need additional tubing. I gave you the tubing dimensions - I literally did the Googling for you. Now you need to go find tubing that meets these ID/OD (inside diameter and outside diameter).
The pump has a built in reservoir right on top - read the instruction manual - it discusses this. You don't need a separate reservoir unless you absolutely want one.
Fittings need to match the ID/OD of the tubing you are getting, again, the hard work done, you just need to select what is needed.
Why would you be getting a 140 radiator? This makes no sense - you already have the 360 from this cooler. What is a 140 going to get you?
Not saying Tom's hardware is perfect but they've never steered me wrong before. I've been using this site for years and it seems like you know what you're talking about in this example.
What's interesting about the top being able to support 3 140s? The screws are too wide spaced for my 360. Are you suggesting there might be a way to mount it to the top?
coworker told me disassembling the AIO and adding more tubes can invite air bubbles so I assumed this to be the case.
Amazon.com: Alphacool AlphaTube TPV Tubing, 12.7mm OD/7.6mm ID,3.3 Meters, Matte Black: Computers & Accessories
What tubing should I go with for this AIO? and im guessing ill be replacing these:
Amazon.com: Alphacool 12563 Hardware Cooling Accessories - Black: Computers & Accessories
with rubber or plastic? Thanks for the help
- Jan 12, 2007
- 16,707
- 660
- 60,190
Normally when a case supports a 420 radiator, it also supports a 360 since a 360 is smaller in dimensions and would fit in a smaller size opening as a 420. Of course, this depends on whether the case design is lazy and does not have both mounting possibilities, but you could drill out your own mounts if you wanted.
You won't be disassembling it, it is meant to come apart for expansion. This means you can expand as needed. This also means that when you expand you just have to work to make sure air is displaced correctly and filled with coolant.
The flexible tubing you have listed is the wrong size, its 12.7mm/7.5mm which likely would work for the ID of the tubing, but not sure the compression rings will fit over the exterior of the tubing. The second link looks like just another set of the same sets of tubing already on the cooler, but how are you going to make these work? Stop and look at the fittings and tubing on both the cooler and the link you sent...
You won't be disassembling it, it is meant to come apart for expansion. This means you can expand as needed. This also means that when you expand you just have to work to make sure air is displaced correctly and filled with coolant.
The flexible tubing you have listed is the wrong size, its 12.7mm/7.5mm which likely would work for the ID of the tubing, but not sure the compression rings will fit over the exterior of the tubing. The second link looks like just another set of the same sets of tubing already on the cooler, but how are you going to make these work? Stop and look at the fittings and tubing on both the cooler and the link you sent...
I don't know what I'm looking for, that's why I'm here. There's nothing on my AIO about the specific tubing I need to change it. I know the fittings are g1/4. I've researched this a couple days now. I'm not getting anywhere and that's why I'm posting on these forums. I talked to coworkers about it, I asked on Amazon. This has been a last resort. I just need to know what parts to buy so I can set this up.
- Jan 12, 2007
- 16,707
- 660
- 60,190
Trying to be helpful, but at the same time, trying to inspire you to do a bit of digging and research and understand what is needed. That is a very large part of custom watercooling - figuring out all the pieces and how it works the way you want it to work. I realize that this is 'an AIO' but at the same time, it really isn't because it is designed to be expandable and an entry-level segue into custom watercooling.
There are a couple ways of doing this, but both will require disconnecting tubing and fittings and draining the coolant - also will likely require you to refill with additional coolant/new coolant or top off with distilled water. If you get new coolant, try to flush the old coolant with tap water in the event there are any chances the 2 coolants are chemically incompatible, but most glycol based coolants are pretty inert.
Option 1-
The only issue with getting the 2-piece quick disconnect tubing would be that you'd really have to disconnect the tubing on the existing setup, and run both sets on a single run, while using both pieces of this set on the remaining side.
https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-Eisbaer-Extension-Straight-Connectors/dp/B01MFC1QWP/ref=sr_1_18?tag=georiot-us-default-20&dchild=1&keywords=alphacool tubing&qid=1612550271&sr=8-18&ascsubtag=tomshardware-us-1197667786771355100-20&geniuslink=true
Meaning, take the part of tubing that does not have the disconnects and remove it, connecting it with a female/female butt connector to the end of the pieces with the quick disconnects, and then reconnecting back up. The Amazon 2- piece disconnect would be connected as one long piece and form the other side of the loop between the pump and radiator.
So, you'd also need something like this for the butt connector: https://www.amazon.com/BXQINLENX-Computer-Cooling-Through-straight/dp/B01DXMELMY/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=water+cooling+g1/4+butt+connector&qid=1612671629&sr=8-8
This would go on the G1/4 fittings on the original AIO disconnect piece and the original non-disconnect length to make a single, long leg. Use the 'new 2-disconnect pieces, connect as 1 large piece, that is your other side.
Option 2 -
Replacing all the tubing with new fittings and tubing. Tubing sizes are measured in BOTH inside and outside diameter (ID/OD) and either in metric or imperial measurements. If you need to convert, use an online metric/standard conversion calculator or the calculator length conversion feature in your Operating System.
Determine tubing size. For an AIO, 3/8" (10mm) ID is probably just fine....no need to try and run large 1/2" (13mm) ID tubing.
Depending on inside diameter, the fitting will need to fit that, if using a barb, you just need the ID to match the tubing ID. So, 3/8" (10mm) ID tubing will fit a 3/8" (10mm) ID barb. Just need a hose clamp or zip tie to secure.
For compression fittings, you need to not only know the ID of the tubing but also the outside diameter (OD) so you know what size the collar needs to be to secure the outside of the tubing once screwed on. This matters, so match the ID and OD to the ID/OD sizes for the compression fittings you like.
Refilling the cooler -
Either option means draining and refilling the cooler once you are done. Given that the pump and reservoir are both in the same housing, you are likely better off mounting the radiator (assuming all tubing is connected) and leaving the pump disconnected from the CPU mount. A power strip with a toggle switch makes the next part much simpler.
Then, you will need to jump the 24-pin ATX power on the PSU by disconnecting from the motherboard and using a jumper tool https://www.amazon.com/s?k=psu+jumper&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 or by using a small piece of wire or paper clip to jump green to black. If your PSU does not have multi-colored wiring, your safest bet is a jumper tool so you don't short the power supply and possibly electrocute yourself in the process.
With the power definitely turned off - fill the pump reservoir until it is full. Do not screw the fill cap on. Flip the power strip toggle to kick on the PSU, powering the pump. Let the pump push the coolant through the lines, but turn it off as soon as it gets low and before it runs dry. Refill the reservoir and repeat these steps multiple times. To help with the priming process, you can get a fill bottle and slowly fill the reservoir while the pump is running if you are so inclined. https://www.amazon.com/1000ml-Bottl...rds=coolant+fill+bottle&qid=1612672438&sr=8-5
Continue this fill/cycle/stop/fill process until the cooler is as full as you can make it. Cap the fill plug and cycle the power back on. Rotate the case/radiator to dislodge air pockets and keep the pump higher than the radiator to allow air to collect, if possible. Kill the power, fill with coolant to displace any air, recap. Should be good to mount the pump back to the CPU, remove the ATX jumper and connect the 24-pin ATX back to motherboard.
Start up the system and make sure everything is going smoothly.
If you can do all these steps above, you can technically build, prime and fill a custom watercooling loop - the steps are exactly the same, just slightly different depending on what is in the cooling loop.
There are a couple ways of doing this, but both will require disconnecting tubing and fittings and draining the coolant - also will likely require you to refill with additional coolant/new coolant or top off with distilled water. If you get new coolant, try to flush the old coolant with tap water in the event there are any chances the 2 coolants are chemically incompatible, but most glycol based coolants are pretty inert.
Option 1-
The only issue with getting the 2-piece quick disconnect tubing would be that you'd really have to disconnect the tubing on the existing setup, and run both sets on a single run, while using both pieces of this set on the remaining side.
https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-Eisbaer-Extension-Straight-Connectors/dp/B01MFC1QWP/ref=sr_1_18?tag=georiot-us-default-20&dchild=1&keywords=alphacool tubing&qid=1612550271&sr=8-18&ascsubtag=tomshardware-us-1197667786771355100-20&geniuslink=true
Meaning, take the part of tubing that does not have the disconnects and remove it, connecting it with a female/female butt connector to the end of the pieces with the quick disconnects, and then reconnecting back up. The Amazon 2- piece disconnect would be connected as one long piece and form the other side of the loop between the pump and radiator.
So, you'd also need something like this for the butt connector: https://www.amazon.com/BXQINLENX-Computer-Cooling-Through-straight/dp/B01DXMELMY/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=water+cooling+g1/4+butt+connector&qid=1612671629&sr=8-8
This would go on the G1/4 fittings on the original AIO disconnect piece and the original non-disconnect length to make a single, long leg. Use the 'new 2-disconnect pieces, connect as 1 large piece, that is your other side.
Option 2 -
Replacing all the tubing with new fittings and tubing. Tubing sizes are measured in BOTH inside and outside diameter (ID/OD) and either in metric or imperial measurements. If you need to convert, use an online metric/standard conversion calculator or the calculator length conversion feature in your Operating System.
Determine tubing size. For an AIO, 3/8" (10mm) ID is probably just fine....no need to try and run large 1/2" (13mm) ID tubing.
Depending on inside diameter, the fitting will need to fit that, if using a barb, you just need the ID to match the tubing ID. So, 3/8" (10mm) ID tubing will fit a 3/8" (10mm) ID barb. Just need a hose clamp or zip tie to secure.
For compression fittings, you need to not only know the ID of the tubing but also the outside diameter (OD) so you know what size the collar needs to be to secure the outside of the tubing once screwed on. This matters, so match the ID and OD to the ID/OD sizes for the compression fittings you like.
Refilling the cooler -
Either option means draining and refilling the cooler once you are done. Given that the pump and reservoir are both in the same housing, you are likely better off mounting the radiator (assuming all tubing is connected) and leaving the pump disconnected from the CPU mount. A power strip with a toggle switch makes the next part much simpler.
Then, you will need to jump the 24-pin ATX power on the PSU by disconnecting from the motherboard and using a jumper tool https://www.amazon.com/s?k=psu+jumper&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 or by using a small piece of wire or paper clip to jump green to black. If your PSU does not have multi-colored wiring, your safest bet is a jumper tool so you don't short the power supply and possibly electrocute yourself in the process.
With the power definitely turned off - fill the pump reservoir until it is full. Do not screw the fill cap on. Flip the power strip toggle to kick on the PSU, powering the pump. Let the pump push the coolant through the lines, but turn it off as soon as it gets low and before it runs dry. Refill the reservoir and repeat these steps multiple times. To help with the priming process, you can get a fill bottle and slowly fill the reservoir while the pump is running if you are so inclined. https://www.amazon.com/1000ml-Bottl...rds=coolant+fill+bottle&qid=1612672438&sr=8-5
Continue this fill/cycle/stop/fill process until the cooler is as full as you can make it. Cap the fill plug and cycle the power back on. Rotate the case/radiator to dislodge air pockets and keep the pump higher than the radiator to allow air to collect, if possible. Kill the power, fill with coolant to displace any air, recap. Should be good to mount the pump back to the CPU, remove the ATX jumper and connect the 24-pin ATX back to motherboard.
Start up the system and make sure everything is going smoothly.
If you can do all these steps above, you can technically build, prime and fill a custom watercooling loop - the steps are exactly the same, just slightly different depending on what is in the cooling loop.
Trying to be helpful, but at the same time, trying to inspire you to do a bit of digging and research and understand what is needed. That is a very large part of custom watercooling - figuring out all the pieces and how it works the way you want it to work. I realize that this is 'an AIO' but at the same time, it really isn't because it is designed to be expandable and an entry-level segue into custom watercooling.
There are a couple ways of doing this, but both will require disconnecting tubing and fittings and draining the coolant - also will likely require you to refill with additional coolant/new coolant or top off with distilled water. If you get new coolant, try to flush the old coolant with tap water in the event there are any chances the 2 coolants are chemically incompatible, but most glycol based coolants are pretty inert.
Option 1-
The only issue with getting the 2-piece quick disconnect tubing would be that you'd really have to disconnect the tubing on the existing setup, and run both sets on a single run, while using both pieces of this set on the remaining side.
https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-Eisbaer-Extension-Straight-Connectors/dp/B01MFC1QWP/ref=sr_1_18?tag=georiot-us-default-20&dchild=1&keywords=alphacool tubing&qid=1612550271&sr=8-18&ascsubtag=tomshardware-us-1197667786771355100-20&geniuslink=true
Meaning, take the part of tubing that does not have the disconnects and remove it, connecting it with a female/female butt connector to the end of the pieces with the quick disconnects, and then reconnecting back up. The Amazon 2- piece disconnect would be connected as one long piece and form the other side of the loop between the pump and radiator.
So, you'd also need something like this for the butt connector: https://www.amazon.com/BXQINLENX-Computer-Cooling-Through-straight/dp/B01DXMELMY/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=water+cooling+g1/4+butt+connector&qid=1612671629&sr=8-8
This would go on the G1/4 fittings on the original AIO disconnect piece and the original non-disconnect length to make a single, long leg. Use the 'new 2-disconnect pieces, connect as 1 large piece, that is your other side.
Option 2 -
Replacing all the tubing with new fittings and tubing. Tubing sizes are measured in BOTH inside and outside diameter (ID/OD) and either in metric or imperial measurements. If you need to convert, use an online metric/standard conversion calculator or the calculator length conversion feature in your Operating System.
Determine tubing size. For an AIO, 3/8" (10mm) ID is probably just fine....no need to try and run large 1/2" (13mm) ID tubing.
Depending on inside diameter, the fitting will need to fit that, if using a barb, you just need the ID to match the tubing ID. So, 3/8" (10mm) ID tubing will fit a 3/8" (10mm) ID barb. Just need a hose clamp or zip tie to secure.
For compression fittings, you need to not only know the ID of the tubing but also the outside diameter (OD) so you know what size the collar needs to be to secure the outside of the tubing once screwed on. This matters, so match the ID and OD to the ID/OD sizes for the compression fittings you like.
Refilling the cooler -
Either option means draining and refilling the cooler once you are done. Given that the pump and reservoir are both in the same housing, you are likely better off mounting the radiator (assuming all tubing is connected) and leaving the pump disconnected from the CPU mount. A power strip with a toggle switch makes the next part much simpler.
Then, you will need to jump the 24-pin ATX power on the PSU by disconnecting from the motherboard and using a jumper tool https://www.amazon.com/s?k=psu+jumper&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 or by using a small piece of wire or paper clip to jump green to black. If your PSU does not have multi-colored wiring, your safest bet is a jumper tool so you don't short the power supply and possibly electrocute yourself in the process.
With the power definitely turned off - fill the pump reservoir until it is full. Do not screw the fill cap on. Flip the power strip toggle to kick on the PSU, powering the pump. Let the pump push the coolant through the lines, but turn it off as soon as it gets low and before it runs dry. Refill the reservoir and repeat these steps multiple times. To help with the priming process, you can get a fill bottle and slowly fill the reservoir while the pump is running if you are so inclined. https://www.amazon.com/1000ml-Bottl...rds=coolant+fill+bottle&qid=1612672438&sr=8-5
Continue this fill/cycle/stop/fill process until the cooler is as full as you can make it. Cap the fill plug and cycle the power back on. Rotate the case/radiator to dislodge air pockets and keep the pump higher than the radiator to allow air to collect, if possible. Kill the power, fill with coolant to displace any air, recap. Should be good to mount the pump back to the CPU, remove the ATX jumper and connect the 24-pin ATX back to motherboard.
Start up the system and make sure everything is going smoothly.
If you can do all these steps above, you can technically build, prime and fill a custom watercooling loop - the steps are exactly the same, just slightly different depending on what is in the cooling loop.
Very informative, I'm impressed with the detail. My eisbaer I think is filled with distilled water it seems like and the extra two-piece disconnect i bought came with more distilled water so I'm guessing I can just add that if needed. I guess I'm looking at getting custom tubing so here's what I picked out:
Amazon.com: PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8in. ID x 1/2in. OD Tubing Bundle (10ft Pack) - Elegant White: Computers & Accessories
Before I go on, I'm a bit confused with matching the tubing to the correct fittings. These corsair fittings seem to be the right size but I'm not sure. Are these what I need?
Amazon.com: Corsair Hydro X Series Xf Compression 10/13mm (3/8"/ 1/2") ID/OD Fittings Four Pack, Black, Model Number: CX-9051002-WW: Computers & Accessories
I have other questions but I want to make sure I'm on the right track first. Thanks
- Jan 12, 2007
- 16,707
- 660
- 60,190
Yes, those are correct ID/OD fitting and tubing matches, if you are planning to use compression fittings.
I'll need to match the fittings on my radiator with proper sized tubing or I'll need to match tubing to the radiator fittings. Is the tubing I chose the proper fit for my radiator fittings that are currently on the eisbaer 360 or should I buy all new fittings? If so, how many will I likely need for this setup along with the water reservoir I picked out?
- Jan 12, 2007
- 16,707
- 660
- 60,190
If you are replacing all tubing and getting new fittings, just get all new fittings to make it easier overall.
You will need 2 fittings for each component, so if this includes an added reservoir, 2 for the pump, 2 for the radiator and 2 for the reservoir, along with the tubing that fits the fittings chosen.
You will need 2 fittings for each component, so if this includes an added reservoir, 2 for the pump, 2 for the radiator and 2 for the reservoir, along with the tubing that fits the fittings chosen.
I received everything now. Before I begin I have some questions. my pump and fans are plugged into my motherboard. If I disconnect the motherboard i won't be able to run the pump. Where should my reservoir be located in my case? When I set this up, what tubes should go where? In my research I have the out tube going from the pump directly to the radiator and the in tube going from the radiator through the resevoir and to the pump. Is this correct? My last question is should I get rid of my old liquid and use all new distilled water? Thanks
- Jan 12, 2007
- 16,707
- 660
- 60,190
Loop order does not matter. Reservoir and tubing location is really up to you, but it might be helpful to have your reservoir at the highest point in the case above all other components in the liquid cooling loop. This will allow air to collect there as well as prevent the pump from having air collect there.
What is the need to remove the motherboard?
What is the need to remove the motherboard?
- Jan 12, 2007
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Not disconnect the motherboard, disconnect the motherboard ATX 24-pin power.
The motherboard stays installed. The jumper plug will power the needed items to start the pump and fans, but not provide power for the system to boot or anything like that.
The motherboard stays installed. The jumper plug will power the needed items to start the pump and fans, but not provide power for the system to boot or anything like that.
- Jan 12, 2007
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CPU won't boot because the MB doesn't have ATX power. GPU also won't power but the cooling fan might spin, could disconnect the 6 or 8 pin power as it won't get power from MB PCI-e.
The fan headers should still work - are you using the PWM header to power the pump, or is there a SATA/MOLEX for power on the pump in addition to 4-pin?
The fan headers should still work - are you using the PWM header to power the pump, or is there a SATA/MOLEX for power on the pump in addition to 4-pin?
- Jan 12, 2007
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None of your 4-pin headers work when you use the jumper? This seems really odd, not sure I've seen this before.
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