What motherboard for i7-3930k with 8 ram slots should i choose?

[jaquith]

It's not that complex and NewEgg has an excellent Building 3-part video; parts 2 and 3 are worth watching. Also, I'm here obviously to help!

Start here - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_56kyib-Ls

 

[Shad0w]

Yeah I hope I won't run into too many problems - I appreciate your help very much

 

[WrekCreation]

Hi there. sorry to thread jack but no one is answering my thread..

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/310350-30-which-motherboard-1600

all i want to know is a recommended motherboard that takes 1600 RAM.
These are my specs:
MSI GeForce GTX560Ti Twin Frozr II OC 1GB
Intel Core i5-2500 Sandy Bridge
8GB 1600 RAM
600w PSU
Asus Intel P67 (B3 Stepping) Socket LGA1155 uATX Motherboard (P8P67-M)
1TB HDDrive
23" LED Monitor

again. apologies for the thread jack

 

[Shad0w]

I just got all the parts today, though I'll have to wait till Sunday for assembling (not enough time) - but I was thinking about testing the H100 cooler to ensure it's not leaking or something (maybe not necessary, but I'm thinking why not?), however, I'm a little unsure on the best way to test it. Do you think it would be ok if I connect it to my psu from my current computer and then let it run outside the case while I'm using the computer? Or is there a better way?

 

[jaquith]

You can plug it into your PSU and see if she leaks, you'll have to also loop a wire or more often referred as 'Paper Clip Test' to get the PSU to power-up; see - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4

/edit - keep in mind IF you loop to the wrong pins you WILL damage your PSU. I have never seen an H100 leak, and IMO those that have shown leaks are from folks purposefully damaging their H100.

 

[Shad0w]

Ah yeah that test, I actually did that a while ago to test my psu (since my computer was completely dead) - but is it safe/ok to leave it running with the paper clip and nothing else connected to the psu apart from the pump?

 

[jaquith]

^Shouldn't be a problem, if it doesn't leak (it won't) after 10 minutes you're good to install.

 

[Shad0w]

I thought about taking out a quite old psu from an old Dell computer I got (never in use anymore) - it's probably around 6-7 years old - then I wouldn't have to do any trickery with my brand new psu - do you think this would be fine for testing too? I assume it can't damage the H100?

 

[jaquith]

IF the PSU is 'bad' then sure it can kill an H100 pump motor. If the PSU is known good, proper Molex voltage, and 'can' power the H100 then sure test it. The H100 are factory sealed to the only way it's going to leak is IF you start yanking on the tubing to the head unit or radiator i.e. man handled the H100.

More than likely you'll need to paper clip even the old PSU...

 

[Shad0w]

Hm okay, well I don't really know if the psu is ok, it's quite old, but the computer appeared to work fine when it was used the last time (but that's about 3-4 years ago). I know I would have to paper clip this one too, but for some reason I'm a little more worried about doing this with my brand new psu - but maybe I shouldn't worry too much about that and just test it with that one - is that how you would normally leak test a custom water setup? And would you just use the new psu rather than the old one?

 

[jaquith]

On a custom water loop no power is going to the MOBO, CPU or GPU(s). In my instance I have a small PSU just to power the Pump(s) and Fans and I prep the MOBO with lots of paper towels just in case. Knock on wood I haven't run across a leak in a long time, and use low conductive fluid.

If there's a leak I'm prepared and you simply mop up the fluid,allow to dry and obviously correct the problem.

If your H100 leaks then the unit IMO was purposefully damaged.

 

[Shad0w]

Okay Yes I know that the H100 probably won't leak, but I'd just like to do a small test to be sure everything looks ok.. if the old Dell computer still seems to boot up just fine then the psu is probably ok just for testing purposes? I could maybe leave the psu in the case, connect the pump and then boot up the computer as normal?

 

[jaquith]

If the PSU on the Dell can power-up then it can power the H100. Yes, you cam simply attach the H100 to an available Molex while the Dell is running.

Good luck, let me know how it goes.

 

[Shad0w]

I just tested it and it was working fine, didnt see any leaking or anything However, I noticed the screws for the fans are quite long so in some of the mounting holes they will hit and smash the fins a little bit - is this how it is supposed to be?

edit: it seems that the screws will damage the fins at all mounting holes except for one where i can see straight through.

 

[jaquith]

You really don't want the screws to 'smash' into the exchanger's cooling fins, as I recall there are Washers for just this purpose.

Typical mounting is through the Screw -> |washer(s) if needed| -> Fan -> Case -> Exchanger

 

[Shad0w]

There are 8 washers included, but in the manual it says they should be used at the top for mounting to the case and not for the fans (http://www.corsair.com/media/cms/manual/forWeb_8.5inx11in_H100.pdf) - even if I used them for attaching the fans I think the screws would still hit the fins..

 

[jaquith]

Personally, I didn't need the washers, mine is installed Screw -> Fan -> Case -> Exchanger --- I placed the fans in the case blowing out the top with the case metal sandwiched in between.

 

[Shad0w]

In that way you probably got the necessary distance, though I'd like to have it on the inside.. it's not like I can't screw in the screws, I actually didnt notice it before having already screwed two screws in (was carefully following the procedure in the manual), so I see the fins have been bent/mashed a bit after removing the screws.. I hope it didnt cause any damage that could cause leaks? The screws didn't hit the metal grille (where I assume the water is flowing)..

 

[jaquith]

My H100 is inside the case, I chose to use the exchanger as a 'muffler' to the two fans. The fins have no liquid, the liquid is only in the 12~14 long chambers running its length. Damage is done and it's no big deal...

 

[Shad0w]

Ah I see your case got a little room on top, I ended up with the Antec P280 and it doesn't have that sort of design - I will try to find some additional washers that I can use (as I would need 2-3 of the supplied for each screw).

I googled the issue too and seems there are other people with the problem, the most "official corsair" response I could find was here http://forum.corsair.com/v2/showthread.php?t=98199 (seems to be the same issue), and looks like it is ok just screwing them in even though they will hit the fins

 

[jaquith]

Kinda what I said...

 

[Shad0w]

Yes, so all should be good

I've ran across a problem with the case fans though, the H100 radiator blocks the little "fan-hub"" - don't know what to call it but the case fans were plugged into this and then I need to plug a molex in too. Could I get a 3-pin to 4 pin-molex converter or something so I completely skip that little hub (only one fan is connected to it anyways)?

I also wanted to use the two case fans that were preinstalled in the top in the front instead, so I would probably need such converters for those too (the cables are not long enough to reach the motherboard).

Also the power cable to the cpu is really short for some reason so it looks like I can't do proper cable routing for this cable..

 

[jaquith]

It's best to run the 2 H100 fans off the pump/controller unit otherwise the fans will run at full speed. Tuck the wires in behind the exchanger with some cable ties. If the case controller is blocked then install the case fans first.

I'm not sure what you mean in the 2nd paragraph? Use the supplied H100 fans for the exchanger; you need high CFM fans with high pressure.

Most 8-pin CPU [strike]fans[/strike] ^leads are going to be run diagonally across the back side of the case to 'reach', all that matters is they reach.

 

[Shad0w]

I see my post was a little confusing, sorry about that.

I don't think it will help connecting the molex to this first before mounting the radiator because it's really tight - it doesn't look like there will be room for the connection. That's why I thought a solution could be to connect the fan to a 3 pin to 4 pin molex converter and routing that to the back of the case where I can connect the molex?

Two fans were preinstalled in the top of the case, I removed those to make room for the H100, and my plan is to use these two fans as intake at the front of the case (as no fans are preinstalled here). But how do I connect them? I was thinking I should get two additional 3-pin to 4pin molex converters for this (will have to order them though as I don't seem to have any).

You mean 8-pin cpu power? The thing is I can't route the cable behind, because then it can't reach the connector on the motherboard - I can't see any other way out than getting a longer cable or having it run across the graphicscard etc, but that doesn't look very neat

 

[jaquith]

Yeah I meant '8-pin CPU leads' - I had 'fans' on the brain.

As far as the front fans, the ASUS's have a CHA_FAN connectors or you could get (buy) a Fan Controller or get (buy) 3/4-pin extension or "Y" cable.

Examples - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=40000011&Description=FAN%20CONTROLLER&bop=And&CompareItemList=11%7C12-123-321%5E12-123-321-TS%2C12-123-298%5E12-123-298-TS%2C12-123-297%5E12-123-297-TS%2C11-998-065%5E11-998-065-TS%2C11-998-055%5E11-998-055-03%23