What to Choose?Liquid or Fan?

[purple stain]

Is their any difference between Liquid Cooling and Regular fan heatsinks besides noise?
Also i have a phenom ii 965BE and i've read that the max temp is around 65c even at stock everything my computer is running around 66c while playing SC2 and around 60c for Black Ops, i know SC2 is very CPU demanding but that just doesn't seem right.I have an Asetek H50 Liquid Cooling and i justt applied Arctic Silver 5 yesterday but that didn't help none I'm thinking it has something to do with the no-name brand H50 so what should i choose between regular heatsinks or Liquid Cooling,i'm leaning twards the Regular Fans and heatsinks because they seem to be cheaper.

 

[rubix_1011]

H50 is one of the worst performing closed loop coolers. The H70 is better as it improved the radiator, fans and not sure on the pump. H50 is prone to leaks and failures, so keep an eye on it.

For $50 or less you can get a really good air cooler that will perform as well as the H50. If you added some high CFM fans in push/pull to the radiator of the H50, you'd see some improved performance. For about $130, you can get into real, entry-level watercooling with the XSPC Rasa kit for the CPU only. Let me know what you choose and we can help get you going...either air or water.

 

[ortoklaz]

@OP what are you using to monitor your temps ? Try HWmonitor ,if you still get the same temps..don't hesitate to get new heatsink or new cooling unit ,your temperature is way out of wak

EDIT; if you could provide screen shot of HWmonitor ,that would be great

 

[rubix_1011]

Yeah, curious to know what idle temps are as well...even ambient...maybe he lives in the boiler room of a steam ship?

 

[tx-jose]

H50 is one of the worst performing closed loop coolers. The H70 is better as it improved the radiator, fans and not sure on the pump. H50 is prone to leaks and failures, so keep an eye on it.

For $50 or less you can get a really good air cooler that will perform as well as the H50. If you added some high CFM fans in push/pull to the radiator of the H50, you'd see some improved performance. For about $130, you can get into real, entry-level watercooling with the XSPC Rasa kit for the CPU only. Let me know what you choose and we can help get you going...either air or water.

what ever you do...listen to rubix!!!

i have him to thank alone for pointing me to the proper threads and stuff to read just waiting for more tubing and fittings to fire it up rubix

 

[rubix_1011]

^Thanks for the kind words, I just try to help...I don't claim to know everything, but there are ways to find it...that's the best way to help.

Hopefully everything gets up and running for you tx-jose...let me know if you run into any issues.

 

[ortoklaz]

Yeah, curious to know what idle temps are as well...even ambient...maybe he lives in the boiler room of a steam ship?

I have known few people to have bad bios settings ;wrong core voltage (main cause to overheat) ,multiplier and they will claim to run all stock

 

[rubix_1011]

Voltages is where you run into heat problems. Sure, clocking your chip up is always fun, but if you are running higher voltage than needed for the sustained clock speeds, you are only shortening the life of the chip and generating more heat than necessary. Which, is why there are guides and stickies out there on how to properly overclock...not just using the BIOS dummy features or a GUI application.

If you are going to take the time to do it, take the time to do it right, and take the time to learn how to do it.

 

[tx-jose]

rubix is right......


i have sen people get to 4Ghz but run like an ungodly 1.5v on their CPU. yah thats just WAYYY too much. im still new to overclocking my self and you will always be learning new methods and ways to OC but good ol BIOS is the way to go

 

[rubix_1011]

BIOS is always the best way to OC your CPU; don't let anyone tell you that a GUI app is better...no way.

But, there are also a lot of motherboards that have dummy settings like 5%, 10%, 20% OC...etc. These work temporarily, but still not the best way. The best way is to understand the voltages needed to sustain the clocks with stability as well as balancing out everything else including FSB, RAM, etc.

 

[tx-jose]

yes my mobo had that turbo and twin turbo button on the GUI and it would reboot nd the OC was applied to the BIOS......


that lasted like 2 days before i did it all manually

 

[saint19]

Do you want overclock?

List 1st the things that you want do with the CPU, because if you only want slow down the temps you DON'T need liquid cooling, get a decent air cooler and problem solved.

 

[ortoklaz]

Do you want overclock?

List 1st the things that you want do with the CPU, because if you only want slow down the temps you DON'T need liquid cooling, get a decent air cooler and problem solved.

dude he claims to hit 66c on stock..you guys have to stop with heatsinks/LC. I don't think thats the problem
@Op show us the screen shot of HWmonitor

 

[saint19]

dude he claims to hit 66c on stock..you guys have to stop with heatsinks/LC. I don't think thats the problem
@Op show us the screen shot of HWmonitor

I know that, DO you read this?

I have an Asetek H50 Liquid Cooling and i justt applied Arctic Silver 5 yesterday but that didn't help none

Even with overvoltage, the H50 with AS5 @ stock should not go over 50ºC.

 

[ortoklaz]

I know that, DO you read this?

I have an Asetek H50 Liquid Cooling and i justt applied Arctic Silver 5 yesterday but that didn't help none

Even with overvoltage, the H50 with AS5 @ stock should not go over 50ºC.

do you even know where is he getting this temps from??

 

[Onus]

Anytime I even start to think about liquid cooling (typically to reduce noise), I see another thread in which someone is crying over his liquid cooling system (anything from simple closed system to custom loop) taking a leak all over the inside of his PC; stick to air. A 120mm-fan cooler will not be that loud, and will do a decent job.

 

[rubix_1011]

Even with overvoltage, the H50 with AS5 @ stock should not go over 50ºC.

It would if he did a poor job of remounting the block.

Anytime I even start to think about liquid cooling (typically to reduce noise), I see another thread in which someone is crying over his liquid cooling system (anything from simple closed system to custom loop) taking a leak all over the inside of his PC; stick to air. A 120mm-fan cooler will not be that loud, and will do a decent job.

Great, you stick to air, i'll stick to water.

No offense, but why are you trolling the thread instead of either offering good information/help or just reading and moving on?

Watercooling isn't for someone who simply can't change their own oil, iron a shirt or shower themselves. It isn't rocket surgery...just some common sense, information, understanding and patience.

 

[saint19]

do you even know where is he getting this temps from??

No, but i'm pretty sure that if he know which is the max temps supported by the CPU, he can know where look that temp in software or BIOS.

It would if he did a poor job of remounting the block.

What do you mean with poor job?

 

[ortoklaz]

I can't believe this..
I remember helping this guy few weeks back..he purchased this PC with Asetek in it,already told him to change this old unit but before, I told him to reapply thermal paste and see if that will make the difference .He said.." he just find out how to monitor the temperature "

 

[rubix_1011]

^Yeah, now that you say this...it's vaguely familiar...

What do you mean with poor job?

If the block isn't fully seated after reapplying TIM.

I'm not saying this is necessarily the case, but it's always a possibility.

 

[saint19]

I can't believe this..
I remember helping this guy few weeks back..he purchased this PC with Asetek in it,already told him to change this old unit but before, I told him to reapply thermal paste and see if that will make the difference .He said.." he just find out how to monitor the temperature "

:lol: Why you don't mention that in 1st place? :lol:, never mind, we need wait until the OP's reply.

 

[saint19]

^Yeah, now that you say this...it's vaguely familiar...

What do you mean with poor job?

If the block isn't fully seated after reapplying TIM.

I'm not saying this is necessarily the case, but it's always a possibility.

Not very possible I think.

 

[rubix_1011]

You'd be surprised...anything is possible.

However, i'd not place money on this being the issue...

 

[tx-jose]

i would almost bet money the thermal compound was applies improperly. I have seen this before on another thread that the OP's friend only applied it to the sides of the CPU and not the thing as a whole.

 

[purple stain]

Wow,thats alot to respond to let me just say what i rember reading...
My abmeiant temps are 75F and my computer idle's at around 38F has been near 65F for the longest time past 6 months i've only recently discovered how to use AMD Overdrive and where i saw the temps for the first time and saw this problem.I thought a new coat of thermal paste would help but i think it is just the Cooler itself.It is made by Asetek which i couldn't find anything on,and from what i've heard the H50 is mainly made by Corsair,i'm sure the Corsair version works great but this one does not,you would think they would put a decent cooler in it with running a 120watt CPU.
I have read temps both in HWmontior and AMD Overdrive and they are both saying the same thing.I'm planning to O.C. alothugh i am still learning last time i tryed to O.C. was 6 months ago and i got it up to 3.7 before it crashed and i havent tryed it since,i must do something about this cooler because i am sure it is the problem before i can start to O.C.