What's dying in my PC

[ultimadwarf]

Hi, so recently ( past few weeks ) my PC when reaching heavy load ( not the CPU, when the GPU is really pushed with higher end games ) the PC locks up and the main display loses signal but the second display connected to my iGPU stays on.

Specs:
Windows 10 64-bit
i5 4570 Stock clocks
8GB 1600MHz
TurboDuo 280X ( Powercolor )
700W Corsair PSU

I contacted CCL, the place I bought my card from and sent it back and they returned it a few days later saying they found nothing wrong with it. They said they tested it on FurMark and Witcher III ect.

While the 280X was away, I used my old GTX 560 Ti 448 for games and it ran perfect, no crashes even when being pushed. When I got the card back, it worked fine for a few days but suddenly it crashed and when I opened the system to check the power cables where in fine, the GPU was extremely hot ( never felt that hot ). Same with CPU heatsink ( when I booted the PC, CPU was at 99C according to bios. I turned the PC off again and pressed the Heatsink to the CPU and after booting 10 mins later, it was fine ).

Pretty sure it's the PSU atm. My 448 Core takes either 190W or 210W ( can't remember ) TDP while the r9 280X has a TDP of 250W ( I read that it can draw up to 330W under load tho ). Power supply handled the card perfect for 1.9 years.

What exactly is wrong with my PC? I don't have equipment to test the PSU safely and I'm worried it's not the PSU or GPU at fault as I'm soon to replace the 280X ( May 27th, I'm coming fo you ).

I just want to make sure what the problem is EXACTLY incase I did need to replace other parts. After searching the internet for advice, I'm extremely confused on what the exact problem is because it could be many things

Thanks

P.S - Both GPUs had newest drivers installed.

 

[lakimens]

Well, since your GPU crashes on high load, you could say that the GPU is broken.
The recommended PSU for that GPU is 750W.
What you can do to prevent this is underclock the GPU and see if it works.

 

[geofelt]

Are you using the stock Intel cooler?
At idle, I would expect to see a cpu temperature of 10-15c. over ambient if the cooler is mounted properly.
Your pressing the cooler indicates to me that you have a problem there. 99c. is a thermal slowdown point for the cpu.
Nudge the cooler. If it wiggles you need to remount it.
Check the back of the motherboard and verify that all 4 pushpins are through and locked.

Here is my stock directions for mounting a intel stock cooler:
----------------how to mount the stock Intel cooler--------------

The stock Intel cooler can be tricky to install.
A poor installation will result in higher cpu temperatures.
If properly mounted, you should expect temperatures at idle to be 10-15c. over ambient.

To mount the Intel stock cooler properly, place the motherboard on top of the foam or cardboard backing that was packed with the motherboard.
The stock cooler will come with paste pre applied, it looks like three grey strips.
The 4 push pins should come in the proper position for installation, that is with the pins rotated in the opposite direction of the arrow,(clockwise)
and pulled up as far as they can go.
Take the time to play with the pushpin mechanism until you know how they work.

Orient the 4 pins so that they are exactly over the motherboard holes.
If one is out of place, you will damage the pins which are delicate.
Push down on a DIAGONAL pair of pins at the same time. Then the other pair.

When you push down on the top black pins, it expands the white plastic pins to fix the cooler in place.

If you do them one at a time, you will not get the cooler on straight.
Lastly, look at the back of the motherboard to verify that all 4 pins are equally through the motherboard, and that the cooler is on firmly.
This last step must be done, which is why the motherboard should be out of the case to do the job. Or you need a case with a opening that lets you see the pins.
It is possible to mount the cooler with the motherboard mounted in the case, but you can then never be certain that the push pins are inserted properly
unless you can verify that the pins are through the motherboard and locked.

If you should need to remove the cooler, turn the pins counter clockwise to unlock them.
You will need to clean off the old paste and reapply new if you ever take the cooler off.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[ultimadwarf]

Well, since your GPU crashes on high load, you could say that the GPU is broken.
The recommended PSU for that GPU is 750W.
What you can do to prevent this is underclock the GPU and see if it works.

I'm going to put the 280X back in and underclock it to stock speeds ( 850MHz ) and give it a go for a while. Will report back later. Something tells me it's the GPU though as it's been fine with the power supply for just under 2 years now.

 

[ultimadwarf]

Are you using the stock Intel cooler?
At idle, I would expect to see a cpu temperature of 10-15c. over ambient if the cooler is mounted properly.
Your pressing the cooler indicates to me that you have a problem there. 99c. is a thermal slowdown point for the cpu.
Nudge the cooler. If it wiggles you need to remount it.
Check the back of the motherboard and verify that all 4 pushpins are through and locked.

Here is my stock directions for mounting a intel stock cooler:
----------------how to mount the stock Intel cooler--------------

The stock Intel cooler can be tricky to install.
A poor installation will result in higher cpu temperatures.
If properly mounted, you should expect temperatures at idle to be 10-15c. over ambient.

To mount the Intel stock cooler properly, place the motherboard on top of the foam or cardboard backing that was packed with the motherboard.
The stock cooler will come with paste pre applied, it looks like three grey strips.
The 4 push pins should come in the proper position for installation, that is with the pins rotated in the opposite direction of the arrow,(clockwise)
and pulled up as far as they can go.
Take the time to play with the pushpin mechanism until you know how they work.

Orient the 4 pins so that they are exactly over the motherboard holes.
If one is out of place, you will damage the pins which are delicate.
Push down on a DIAGONAL pair of pins at the same time. Then the other pair.

When you push down on the top black pins, it expands the white plastic pins to fix the cooler in place.

If you do them one at a time, you will not get the cooler on straight.
Lastly, look at the back of the motherboard to verify that all 4 pins are equally through the motherboard, and that the cooler is on firmly.
This last step must be done, which is why the motherboard should be out of the case to do the job. Or you need a case with a opening that lets you see the pins.
It is possible to mount the cooler with the motherboard mounted in the case, but you can then never be certain that the push pins are inserted properly
unless you can verify that the pins are through the motherboard and locked.

If you should need to remove the cooler, turn the pins counter clockwise to unlock them.
You will need to clean off the old paste and reapply new if you ever take the cooler off.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yes, I'm using intel stock cooler. I've noticed for a while now that the heatsink was on the board but wobbly when touched. Since my PC hasn't died up till this point and from what I read online, I thought all was normal. I'll give it a look. I might just install my 212 Evo early. I was keeping it for a while back ( was gonna upgrade CPU/Mobo/RAM and bought it for that ) but since I changed my mind, I should probably get use out of it.

 

[ultimadwarf]

I changed over to my 280X again and tested it on FurMark at stock. PC locked up at 720P test. I then underclocked the card to the reference card's speeds ( 853MHz ) and it survived 720P but failed the 1080P test.

 

[lakimens]

I don't know what could be causing the problem, except the GPU might be broken and probably is.

 

[ultimadwarf]

I don't know what could be causing the problem, except the GPU might be broken and probably is.

Ok, thanks. I'll be replacing it soon but also going to replace the power supply just as a precaution ( It's been 5 years, I have a feeling it will die sometime shortly anyway ).