[SOLVED] Why can’t I get my pc to start

[Dockterr]

Case: in win A1 Mobo: ASUS ROG Strix B550-1 Cpu: ryzen 5 3600 GPU: EVGA 1660 XC single fan PSU: integrated power supply 650w 80+ gold Storage: Samsung 970 evo 1tb I started this build a few months ago and have only got it to start a few times out of case, however it doesn’t work everytime I had only got it to bios maybe 2 times and the rest of the time it won’t start I have tested the psu and all connectors replaced the mobo, case, and CPU to no avail. I have tested the power button tried to start ot from the pins and it doesn’t work. I’ve cleared the cmos and swapped for a different SSD. Someone suggested updating the bios but if I have gotten it to the bios before that means it is compatible right? The thing that baffles me is how inconsistent it is there’s no issue I can think of that solves this. I need a second opinion before I throw more money out the window

 

[jojesa]

What's the RAM, PC case and PSU models?
How did you test the PSU?

If were able to get it to start outside the PC case then maybe somethings is wrong with the PC case or how the components were installed.

Did you check that the PC case standoffs matched the motherboard installation holes?

 

[Dockterr]

My case is an In Win A1 and I have 2 sticks of 16gb oloy sticks at 3200 the psu is an integrated psu which is 650w 80+gold I tested it by jumping it and then I brought it to a shop so they could officially test it and it was fine and I have replaced the case and the holes match and when I brought it to the shop he took it apart and put it back together and he found nothing wrong with instillation if it is the case what are some common issues?

 

[Dockterr]

What's the RAM, PC case and PSU models?
How did you test the PSU?

If were able to get it to start outside the PC case then maybe somethings is wrong with the PC case or how the components were installed.

Did you check that the PC case standoffs matched the motherboard installation holes?

And also it wouldn’t always start outside the case too

 

[Dockterr]

What's the RAM, PC case and PSU models?
How did you test the PSU?

If were able to get it to start outside the PC case then maybe somethings is wrong with the PC case or how the components were installed.

Did you check that the PC case standoffs matched the motherboard installation holes?

Sorry just resending this so you see it
My case is an In Win A1 and I have 2 sticks of 16gb oloy sticks at 3200 the psu is an integrated psu which is 650w 80+gold I tested it by jumping it and then I brought it to a shop so they could officially test it and it was fine and I have replaced the case and the holes match and when I brought it to the shop he took it apart and put it back together and he found nothing wrong with instillation if it is the case what are some common issues?

 

[jojesa]

Sorry just resending this so you see it
My case is an In Win A1 and I have 2 sticks of 16gb oloy sticks at 3200 the psu is an integrated psu which is 650w 80+gold I tested it by jumping it and then I brought it to a shop so they could officially test it and it was fine

So, the shop tested the PSU by connecting it to another (similar built) computer and it powered the computer and they stressed the PSU.

... I brought it to the shop he took it apart and put it back together and he found nothing wrong with instillation...

The shop took the PC apart, then assembled it back, and found nothing wrong. So the computer was working at the shop when it was assembled it back?

if it is the case what are some common issues?

Installing the motherboard without standoffs or with more standoffs than the ones matching the motherboard could prevent the PC from working properly.
Connecting the PC case front I/O connections incorrectly or faulty front I/O cables or ports, could prevent the PC from powering on.

At any point did you record the motherboard diagnostics LED to see which component could be causing the issue?

Test the motherboard outside the PC case.
Reset the BIOS first, by removing the CMOS battery. Leave it outside for at least 10 minutes then plug it back.
Install only the CPU, one stick of RAM (slot near the CPU) and the GPU and make sure to connect the 24-pin ATX, 8-pin CPU and the PCIe power to the GPU.

It could take 3-5 minutes for the system to post after powering on, and it could power cycle several times...do not interrupt it.
See if you are able to get into the BIOS.
Pat attention to motherboard diagnostics LED and see if any stay lit.

 

[Dockterr]

So, the shop tested the PSU by connecting it to another (similar built) computer and it powered the computer and they stressed the PSU.


The shop took the PC apart, then assembled it back, and found nothing wrong. So the computer was working at the shop when it was assembled it back?


Installing the motherboard without standoffs or with more standoffs than the ones matching the motherboard could prevent the PC from working properly.
Connecting the PC case front I/O connections incorrectly or faulty front I/O cables or ports, could prevent the PC from powering on.

At any point did you record the motherboard diagnostics LED to see which component could be causing the issue?

Test the motherboard outside the PC case.
Reset the BIOS first, by removing the CMOS battery. Leave it outside for at least 10 minutes then plug it back.
Install only the CPU, one stick of RAM (slot near the CPU) and the GPU and make sure to connect the 24-pin ATX, 8-pin CPU and the PCIe power to the GPU.

It could take 3-5 minutes for the system to post after powering on, and it could power cycle several times...do not interrupt it.
See if you are able to get into the BIOS.
Pat attention to motherboard diagnostics LED and see if any stay lit.

The standoffs line up and are the ones included in the case no extra standoffs either and I apologize for the confusion the shop didn’t get it to start either he just verified that my installation was correct and he tested the psu using a tool they have to make sure it’s working properly and just to clarify the mobo doesn’t turn on the thing looks dead other than the mobo lights on the audio ports but it doesn’t power on no fans or anything no noise. I stripped down the mobo to what you said and cleared the cmos and nothing happened. one of the times when I did get it to power on the mobo light said vrm so I reinstalled my SSD and it worked properly for that time and then I couldn’t get it to turn on. And I know the front IO is connected right because it is a single connector that holds all of the pins. Sorry if I don’t make much sense I ramble whatever I’m thinking and thank you for all the help

 

[itsdigger]

I would RMA the MB as faulty .

 

[Dockterr]

I would RMA the MB as faulty .

I would if I haven't already replaced it once, I'm skeptical to buy another incase there's another issue

 

[jojesa]

...he tested the psu using a tool they have to make sure it’s working properly ...

If the shop connected the PSU to a cheap $5 tester, that only shows that the PSU powers on and that it delivers the voltage is says. But that won't test if the PSU could power a PC and deliver constant voltage and the wattage when connected to a PC.

and just to clarify the mobo doesn’t turn on the thing looks dead other than the mobo lights on the audio ports but it doesn’t power on no fans or anything no noise.

If the motherboard diagnostic lights (Q-LED) are not lighting up then the motherboard is faulty.
The motherboard diagnostic lights will stay lit depending on component with the issue (DRAM-yellow, CPU-red, VGA-white, Boot Device-green).
The diagnostic lights are located near the 24-pin ATX, close to the RAM slots.
Example:
If you power on without the RAM or there is a RAM issue the yellow RAM LED light stays lit.

I stripped down the mobo to what you said and cleared the cmos and nothing happened. one of the times when I did get it to power on the mobo light said vrm...

I don't remember seen a VRM light on that motherboard.

Have you tried updating the BIOS in case it got corrupted?

 

[Dockterr]

If the shop connected the PSU to a cheap $5 tester, that only shows that the PSU powers on and that it delivers the voltage is says. But that won't test if the PSU could power a PC and deliver constant voltage and the wattage when connected to a PC.


If the motherboard diagnostic lights (Q-LED) are not lighting up then the motherboard is faulty.
The motherboard diagnostic lights will stay lit depending on component with the issue (DRAM-yellow, CPU-red, VGA-white, Boot Device-green).
The diagnostic lights are located near the 24-pin ATX, close to the RAM slots.
Example:
If you power on without the RAM or there is a RAM issue the yellow RAM LED light stays lit.


I don't remember seen a VRM light on that motherboard.

Have you tried updating the BIOS in case it got corrupted?

Would the bios being outdated stop the pc from turning on? And I have gotten it to the bios before doesnt that mean it is compatible?

 

[jojesa]

Would the bios being outdated stop the pc from turning on? And I have gotten it to the bios before doesnt that mean it is compatible?

I did not say it wasn't incompatible. I say it could have gotten corrupted and that will prevent the motherboard from working properly.

 

[Dockterr]

I did not say it wasn't incompatible. I say it could have gotten corrupted and that will prevent the motherboard from working properly.

Okay I will try that tomorrow and I’ll let you know how it goes thank you for your help I’ll keep you posted

 

[jojesa]

You do not need to install any components (CPU, RAM or GPU) to perform a BIOS FlashBack update.

Get a USB flash drive (formatted to FAT32).
Download the compressed BIOS file and extract the BIOS file.
Run the BIOSRenamer from the extracted folder and the BIOS file will be renamed to something like SB550IG.CAP.
Copy that file to the root directory of the USB flash drive.
Plug in the USB flash drive on the USB port next to the FlashBack button on the ASUS motherboard.
Make sure the 24-pin and the 8-pin CPU are connected to the motherboard but do not power on the system.
Press the BIOS FlashBack button for 3 seconds, The BIOS FlashBack LED will flash 3 times to show that the update started.
Wait for the lights to go out...it could take up to 7 minutes for the update to finished.
If the BIOS FlashBack LED flashes and then become solid lit, then the update failed.

 

[Dockterr]

You do not need to install any components (CPU, RAM or GPU) to perform a BIOS FlashBack update.

Get a USB flash drive (formatted to FAT32).
Download the compressed BIOS file and extract the BIOS file.
Run the BIOSRenamer from the extracted folder and the BIOS file will be renamed to something like SB550IG.CAP.
Copy that file to the root directory of the USB flash drive.
Plug in the USB flash drive on the USB port next to the FlashBack button on the ASUS motherboard.
Make sure the 24-pin and the 8-pin CPU are connected to the motherboard but do not power on the system.
Press the BIOS FlashBack button for 3 seconds, The BIOS FlashBack LED will flash 3 times to show that the update started.
Wait for the lights to go out...it could take up to 7 minutes for the update to finished.
If the BIOS FlashBack LED flashes and then become solid lit, then the update failed.

sorry for the wait i had to purchase a usb stick, just performed the bios update and the update worked and still no power on the pc

 

[jojesa]

sorry for the wait i had to purchase a usb stick, just performed the bios update and the update worked and still no power on the pc

If the update went without issues, then I don't think is the motherboard.

 

[Dockterr]

If the update went without issues, then I don't think is the motherboard.

Okay should I replace the case then?

 

[jojesa]

Okay should I replace the case then?

It doesn't power outside the case.
I think you should try another PSU.