[SOLVED] Why does my system keep freezing everytime I open something?

Jun 23, 2019
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I just built my new gaming PC yesterday. Everything seemed fine until I booted it up today and hooked it up to the internet.

I tried installing a game, it crashed in the middle of installing. I open Edge, it crashes. I open anything, it crashes. I took out the network USB, and now it seems fine. I doubt it would be causing the problems though. A notification pops up that says "Default Radeon WattMan has been restored due to a system error", that's if it recovers without making me hard reset. Can someone help me out?

PC:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1800x
GPU: XFX Radeon RX580 GTS Blackcore
RAM: Corsair Vengence RAM 16GB 2666MHz
PSU: EVGA 450 BT
Cooler: Corsair H60 liquid cooler
Case: Antec 900
Motherboard: MSI B450 Tomahawk
SSD: Kingston 250GB
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB
Windows 10 PRO 64 unregistered (Registering it thursday)
All of the drivers are installed and up to date. Everything is hooked up properly, I'm sure. It just keeps freezing and crashing
 
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Solution
I pretty well knew that was the problem too, which is why I said it wasn't normal behavior, but I wanted you to be able to try all the options before having to go to the final resolution if possible. I guess the good thing is that you know now. Yes, hopefully it IS still under warranty. Most cards have a three year warranty but it's best to find your original purchase information and then check with the manufacturers website. If it's under warranty, don't hesitate to contact them right away.
First of all, you have a seriously under capacity power supply for that graphics card, and it's not a terrific quality unit to begin with. It's not "bad", for a seriously budget option, but it is not the right power supply in terms of capacity or quality to be used with your RX 580 that should be paired with a very good 550w or higher capacity unit.

Chances are good your freezing might be related, but obviously there are no guarantees. Even if that's not causing ALL the crashing, it's almost a certainty that any problems you experience when the graphics card is under a demanding load will be related to that. I'd replace it with a higher quality unit even if something else is causing the crashes.


IF you have not updated the motherboard BIOS, that is probably the very first thing you need to do. If there are any non-beta BIOS updates newer than what you have installed, do yourself a favor and install the most recent one before looking for any other solutions.

If there are any steps listed here that you have not already done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility.



First,

make sure your motherboard has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release.


Second,

go to the product page for your motherboard on the manufacturer website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, storage controllers, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates.


IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.


Third,

Make sure your memory is running at the correct advertised speed in the BIOS. This may require that you set the memory to run at the XMP profile settings.

Also, make sure you have the memory installed in the correct slots and that they are running in dual channel which you can check by installing CPU-Z and checking the Memory tab. For all modern motherboards that are dual channel memory architectures, from the last ten years at least,

if you have two sticks installed they should be in the A2 (Called DDR4_1 on some boards) or B2 (Called DDR4_2 on some boards) which are ALWAYS the SECOND and FOURTH slots over from the CPU socket, counting TOWARDS the edge of the motherboard EXCEPT on boards that only have two memory slots total.

In that case, if you have two modules it's not rocket science, but if you have only one, then install it in the A1 or DDR4_1 slot.


Fourth,

Make sure the problem is not just a bad cable or the wrong cable IF this is a no display issue. If it is NOT related to a lack of display signal, then skip to the next step.

This happens a lot. Try a different cable or a different TYPE of cable. Sometimes there can be issues with the monitor or card not supporting a specific specification such as HDMI 1.4 vs HDMI 2.0, or even an HDMI output stops working but the Displayport or DVI output still works fine on the graphics card. Always worth checking the cable and trying other cables because cables get run over, bent, bent pins or simply were cheap quality to begin with and something as simple as trying a different cable or different monitor might be all that is required to solve your issue.


The last thing we want to look at,

for now anyhow, is the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.


If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.

 
Jun 23, 2019
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I guess I’ll upgrade my PSU on Thursday when I get paid. PC Part Picker lied to me when they said 450 would be enough. Enough to run File Explorer maybe. Well, thank you for your help. I’ll update you if something goes wrong even after I get my power supply and update everything
 
Right now, if you are in the US, this is the model I'd probably most recommend at the moment based on price for a quality unit. In a week from now, things could change, so I'd recommend we revisit this a the time you are able to upgrade.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: EVGA - 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $59.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-06-23 13:40 EDT-0400



And if that does not help the problem, then we can go forward from there and try to figure out what else is going on that might be a factor.

I'd take a look at doing the other things I've suggested in the meantime, as they are often successful in resolving a variety of issues both large and small.
 
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Jun 23, 2019
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I got a 700w bronze PSU, updated all of my drivers, and it still keeps freezing and saying default Radeon WattMan settings have been restored due to a system error. Is it a bad card or is something plugged in wrong? This is getting ridiculous
 
I got a 700w bronze PSU, updated all of my drivers, and it still keeps freezing and saying GlobalWattman has restored settings due to a system error. Is it a bad card or is something plugged in wrong? This is getting ridiculous

How many watts it is doesn't necessarily matter, at all. There are 1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a light bulb, a strip of LEDs or even a raspberry pi, much less a full system with a high end graphics card.

What is the EXACT model of the power supply you purchased?
 
That BR unit isn't very good either, so it's a good thing it's about 150w (On paper anyhow) higher than what you actually need.

The 650w GQ model I linked you to would have been a much better purchase in terms of quality and reliability. I'd return that unit if possible. It would be advisable to read my PSU recommendations below.

Let's start with the biggest misconception out there, which is that if a unit has high watts it will be ok or is good. Well, that couldn't be further from the truth.

There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a light bulb and might in fact be more dangerous due to their supposedly high capacity due to poor or non-existent protections inside the unit.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, how many watts or amps it says it can support is irrelevant.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it is a PSU platform that we already know is good anyhow. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, whether or not it has an 80plus certification or not is irrelevant.

Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far there are very few very good units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Seasonic. Seasonic isn't just a brand, they are a PSU manufacturer, unlike many of the PSU brands you see they make their own power supply platforms AND a great many of the very good PSU models out there from other brands like Antec, Corsair and older XFX are made by Seasonic.

Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.

Most common currently, in order of preference, would be the Seasonic Focus series, then Focus plus, then Prime, then Prime ultra. It's worth mentioning that there are generally Gold, Platinum and Titanium versions within each, or most, of those series, but that does not necessarily mean that a Focus plus Platinum is necessarily better than a Prime Gold. It only means that it scored better in the 80plus efficiency testing, not that the platform is better.

Again, don't let yourself get tangled up in the idea that a higher 80plus rating specifically means that it is a better unit than another one with a lower rating, unless you know that it is a good platform from the start. All these Focus and Prime units are pretty good so you can somewhat focus on the 80plus rating when deciding which of them to choose.

Super Flower. Super Flower is another PSU manufacturer. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.They also make most of the good units sold by EVGA like the G2, G3, P2 and T2 models.

Super Flower doesn't have a very broad availability for the units with their own brand name on them, and are not available in a lot of countries but for those where there is availability you want to look at the Leadex and Leadex II models. The Golden green platform is fairly decent too but is getting rather long in the tooth as a platform AND I've seen some reviews indicating a few shortcomings on units based on this platform.

Even so, it's a great deal better than a lot of other platforms out there so you could certainly do worse than a Golden green model. Units based on the Leadex and Leadex II platforms are much better though.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.

Antec Earthwatts Gold units are very good also.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.

Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (Most models failed testing), BQ, BR, BT (BT probably ok for low powered budget builds but don't expect it to be a high quality unit) and G1 NEX models.

Good models are the B2, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP.
They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master.

They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JonnyGuru for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.

Cooler Master Masterwatt Lite 600W review

And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.

Power supply discussion thread

The Powerspec units sold my Microcenter are a mixed bag. Some of them are fairly decent using the same platform as the Sirfa High power astro lite platform, so not total dumpster fire type units, but not particularly good either, and some of their units are simply garbage and should be listed below in the DO NOT USE category, but I'm leaving them out because there are really no reviews of them and since there are a few units from them that are ok-ish, I'm giving them a "use at your own discretion but buy a better model if you can" grade.

A gray label CX or CXm unit would probably be an upgrade from one of those Powerspec models, without any doubt.

Certainly there ARE some good units out there that you won't see above among those I've listed, but they are few and far between, much as a hidden nugget of gold you find in a crevice among otherwise ordinary rocks and don't EVER assume a unit is good just because of the brand.

If you cannot find an IN DEPTH, REPUTABLE review on Tom's hardware, JonnyGuru, HardOCP, Hardware secrets (Old reviews by Gabe Torres), Kitguru (Only Aris reviews), TechPowerUP, SilentPC crew or a similar site that does much more than simply a review of the unboxing and basic tests that don't include reliable results for ripple, noise, voltage regulation and a complete teardown of the unit including identification of the internal platform, then the unit is a big fat question mark.

I recommend not trusting such units as companies generally always send out review samples of any unit they feel is going to get a good review, and don't send them out if they know they are going to get hammered by the reviewer. No review usually equals poor quality. Usually.


Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include

A-Top, AK Power, Alpine, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, Chieftech, Circle, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Eurotech, Evo labs, EZ cool, Feedtek, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, High power, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Kolink, LC Power, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, Rave, Rocketfish, Segotep, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Spire, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.
 
Jun 23, 2019
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So far everything is working. I finally got the right drivers by using the disc that came with my motherboard (I should have done that to begin with). Bad new is, I have to have the side of my case off, my window AC unit set to 64F, and a fan blowing into the case just to get it to be stable. Otherwise, it will crash. That graphics card just doesn’t dissipate enough heat. Is there a way to clock it down or something?
 
How many case fans do you have installed?

In what direction is the airflow oriented for each fan?

WHERE is each fan installed?

Have you installed a GPU tweak utility like Afterburner and configured a cooling fan profile for your card? If you have plenty of case airflow, and the fans on the card have a reasonable fan curve configured and you are overheating (Which you need to check by using a utility for thermal monitoring, again, like afterburner) then there is a problem with the graphics card and you should return it or at least speak with XFX about the problem. You should not have to do what you are doing just for it to be usable. DO those things, and it would be good as well to make sure your motherboard has the latest BIOS version installed, and then if it isn't remedied I'd return or RMA the card.

Also, do the clean install of the drivers as outlined in the link I posted earlier. A bad driver could make all the difference in the world.
 
Jun 23, 2019
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I actually sent it to a repair shop for a diagnostic. Everything was going wrong. It acted like it wanted to work, but it was still having the same issues. The CPU was locked at 99% or 100% (on a Ryzen 7 at idle!). I tried everything! I tweaked with the setting on after burner, turned on Game boost, nothing was working
 
Jun 23, 2019
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The verdict is in. Did you guess it:

Bad graphics card

I knew that had to be it, but I was in denial hoping it was just software. Oh well, hope it’s under warranty
 
I pretty well knew that was the problem too, which is why I said it wasn't normal behavior, but I wanted you to be able to try all the options before having to go to the final resolution if possible. I guess the good thing is that you know now. Yes, hopefully it IS still under warranty. Most cards have a three year warranty but it's best to find your original purchase information and then check with the manufacturers website. If it's under warranty, don't hesitate to contact them right away.
 
Solution
Jun 23, 2019
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Well thank you for all of your help. I put in a support ticket on XFX. They found my card, so hopefully they will get back to me about a warranty repair or replacement. I just want to game, you know? I guess I should mark this complete or something