Question Why is my CPU jumping in heat and then going back down to normal

Jun 7, 2020
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So i noticed a weird pattern in my cpu heat , It seems to jump up about 10 Degrees and then slowly drop back down . But the wierd thing is that its like clockwork , it never stops doing it and doesnt matter wether its under load or idle , its always does the jump and slowly comes back down . It jumps about every 5 or 6 seconds . I also noticed that when the heat reading jumps so does my cpu wattage , they both increase and then slowly come back down. I Just built my pc and it was not doing this at the start , it would have a constant temp reading with the normal flucuating rises .I have been keeping a close eye on it to monitor any changes .

Im running
Gigabyte B450m
Ryzen 5 3600(stock cooler)
Rx 580 Nitro 8gb
No overclocks on anything .
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
Make sure you have the MOST recent BIOS version for your motherboard installed.

Make sure you have THIS chipset driver installed.

https://www.amd.com/en/support/chipsets/amd-socket-am4/b450

Since you are using the stock cooler, I would also go into the BIOS after you update if you need to update, and DISABLE PBO (Precision boost overdrive). Do not confuse Precision boost OVERDRIVE with Precision boost. One is the stock boost behavior while the other is the default factory overclocked boost behavior. The default setting for PBO is normally "Auto" which means that in most cases it WILL use PBO. Disabling PBO will reduce maximum boost profile by a small degree but it makes a big difference on thermals. Enabling PBO should really be reserved for configurations that have substantially better than stock cooling, same as any type of CPU overclocking.
 
Jun 7, 2020
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Make sure you have the MOST recent BIOS version for your motherboard installed.

Make sure you have THIS chipset driver installed.

https://www.amd.com/en/support/chipsets/amd-socket-am4/b450

Since you are using the stock cooler, I would also go into the BIOS after you update if you need to update, and DISABLE PBO (Precision boost overdrive). Do not confuse Precision boost OVERDRIVE with Precision boost. One is the stock boost behavior while the other is the default factory overclocked boost behavior. The default setting for PBO is normally "Auto" which means that in most cases it WILL use PBO. Disabling PBO will reduce maximum boost profile by a small degree but it makes a big difference on thermals. Enabling PBO should really be reserved for configurations that have substantially better than stock cooling, same as any type of CPU overclocking.
So i dowloaded the new chipset drivers and its still doing it . Now for the PBO, Is "Core Performance boost" the same thing? There is no precision boost overdrive or precision boost anywhere in my bios . I already have the latest bios . It doesnt seem to be "normal" temp spike . Would bad temp sensors on the MB cause this to happen?
 
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Jun 7, 2020
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Its a Gigabyte B450M DS3H . I turned off the "Core perfomance boost" and it actually seemed to work . I dont see a temperature jump at all . Its kinda strange .
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
Core performance boost is the XFR2, or stock boost profile. You do not want to disable that as CPU performance will reduce significantly.

This BIOS on the B450 Aorus Pro Wi-Fi should be the same, as should most all Gigabyte B450 BIOS, as yours. This should help you to find the setting.

 
What are temperatures you are getting ? Some jumps are normal if they don't go over limits.
Processor speeds up according to demands from OS and SW, for that it needs higher voltage so power (in Watts) raises temperature, CPU is not going to do that by itself, needs OS to tell him what to do. For any large jumps in demand and temperature, look in windows and see what they are doing to cause it.
 
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Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
That's true Mike, but the behavior he's describing, cycling every 5 or 6 seconds repeatedly, indefinitely, is not normal. At some point, no matter what applications are installed, unless there is a hardware level setting or issue, or an infection of some kind, resource usage SHOULD flatten out and not continuously rise and fall. Certainly processes will continue to run off and on, causing load on the CPU to rise and fall even after it has been sitting unused for some time, but not cyclic and rapid with a clockwork aspect like he's describing. Also, if disabling XFR2, which is what he did, caused the behavior to stop, then it's absolutely not due to any process or resource demands from OS services or applications because then they'd still be demanding resources and raising temperatures, they'd just be doing it more slowly since it would be running at the base clock rather than at the boost clocks.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
Yes, I agree. But he needs to make sure he has the most recent BIOS version installed. There could be an issue there that was resolved. That's the whole point of BIOS updates aside from adding support for newer hardware.

And disabling PBO while leaving the default boost/XFR2 enabled should not hurt performance all that much anyhow. It may be that with the right cooling and an updated BIOS it won't even be necessary to have it disabled.

If we're being honest, the three Ryzen builds I did that started out with the stock cooler last month, ALL had this exact problem. Upgrading to better cooling and disabling PBO solved the issue completely as well as erradicating the annoying hum and cyclic up down of the wraith cooler and performance was still extremely good with only the stock boost profile.
 
Jun 7, 2020
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Ok , so i have found the Option to turn PBO off and i turned back on the core performance boost and im going to see what happens( thanks dark for giving me directions to that ) . Now I know the core boost allows the cpu to run at higher frequncys but only when needed . I was findimg that my cpu was always running at 4.1ghz rather than the base at 3.6 . And as far as temps go mike . When i game it stays between 75-80 never went any higher , but now with the jumping 10c it reaches 90c . But i dont know if thats a real reading because it lowers back down to 80 and does a jump back up to 90 and so forth
 

Zerk2012

Titan
Ambassador
Ok , so i have found the Option to turn PBO off and i turned back on the core performance boost and im going to see what happens( thanks dark for giving me directions to that ) . Now I know the core boost allows the cpu to run at higher frequncys but only when needed . I was findimg that my cpu was always running at 4.1ghz rather than the base at 3.6 . And as far as temps go mike . When i game it stays between 75-80 never went any higher , but now with the jumping 10c it reaches 90c . But i dont know if thats a real reading because it lowers back down to 80 and does a jump back up to 90 and so forth
That temp is to high and limiting your boost speed. I would buy a decent aftermarket cooler. For the temp spikes that could be the BIOS on the motherboard since the B450 boards were not originally made for that processor, this could also change or improve with future BIOS updates. Some temp spikes are normal because the way Windows tries to use the best cores back and forth.

The boost clock speed on that processor is 4.2.

Just to be honest the stock coolers just SUX their barely adequate and loud under load. Some will hate on me for saying that but it's true. In my opinion they should stop making all stock coolers or at least put 10/15 more bucks into the production cost to at least put out a good product. It's the same on Intel and AMD at least Intel just gave up on their K processors since you buy one to overclock anyhow.
 
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Jun 7, 2020
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I do agree zerk , Im not liking the temps but i dont know if the 90 jump is actually at 90 since it just drops right back down . So i turned back on core boost and took off the PBO and the Jumping returned . Why is it only when core boost is on ? Im looking into getting a closed loop liquid cooler but im still puzzled by the clockwork like jumping and falling . It was never doing this when i first built the PC . Im pretty sure i have the latest BIOS at F50 and on the box it does say that the MB is Ryzen 3 ready
 
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Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
It jumps right back down because the system is throttling the CPU frequency to reduce the temperature. As soon as it cools below the allowable thermal envelope it turns the boost back on and of course then it heats right back up.

Get a better cooler. That will almost certainly solve your issue permanently AND you can then likely run the PBO boost for that little bit of additional performance gain as well. So far as I'm concerned the stock Wraith coolers are simply NOT up to the task of keeping anything larger than the Ryzen 3 or four core APU models cool.

Below is my list of preferred CPU AIR coolers, also known as Heatsink fans (HSF).

Do not look here for recommendations on water/liquid cooling solutions. There are none to be found.

A good air cooler works just as well for most applications. There are very few instances I can think of where an AIO will work better than a good air cooler, and even fewer where an AIO will outperform an air cooler if you are willing to buy the right air cooler and then level up by adding some even higher end fans to it.

Loops leak. Heatsinks don't. Pumps fail, FAR more often and usually with far worse consequences, than fans do.

And unlike a heatsink fan assembly, when your pump fails for 99% of AIO coolers, you will be replacing the whole thing, for another 100+ dollars, rather than just a 25 dollar investment for the failure of a fan. Especially since I've rarely seen dual fan coolers have both fans fail at the same time, but even if you factor in two fan failures that's still only about fifty bucks compared to the 100+ it will cost to replace an AIO with a failed pump. And you WILL have a failed pump on most AIO coolers within three years of purchase. Seeing one last longer than five years is possible, but it is not particularly common and we often, very often, see them fail at around the 3 year mark. Sometimes much sooner.

Pump quality and longevity is an area that needs GREAT improvement before AIO coolers will become a primary recommendation for me.

I see a lot of AIO coolers leak and damage hardware as well.

Certainly there are situations where an AIO is called for, or even preferred, but those are MOSTLY aesthetic considerations, because let's face it, a build with an AIO or custom loop generally "looks" a lot cleaner than one that has a big heatsink taking up half the real estate inside your case. When that is the case, I have recommendations for those as well, but I don't offer them unless somebody is specifically asking to go that route.[/B]

They are basically listed in order of preference, from top to bottom. To some degree that preference is based on known performance on similarly overclocked configurations, but not entirely. There are likely a couple of units that are placed closer to the top not because they offer purely better performance than another cooler which is below it, but potentially due to a variety of reasons.

One model might be placed higher than another with the same or similar performance, but has quieter or higher quality fans. It may have the same performance but a better warranty. Long term quality may be higher. It may be less expensive in some cases. Maybe it performs slightly worse, but has quieter fans and a better "fan pitch". Some fans with equal decibel levels do not "sound" like they are the same as the specific pitch heard from one fan might be less annoying than another.

In any case, these are not "tiered" and are not a 100% be all, end all ranking. They are simply MY preference when looking at coolers for a build or when making recommendations. Often, which HSF gets chosen depends on what is on this list and fits the budget or is priced right at the time due to a sale or rebate. Hopefully it will help you and you can rest assured that every cooler listed here is a model that to some degree or other is generally a quality unit which is a lot more likely to be worth the money spent on it than on many other models out there that might look to be a similarly worthwhile investment.

Certainly there are a great many other very good coolers out there, but these are models which are usually available to most anybody building a system or looking for a cooler, regardless of what part of the world they might live in. As always, professional reviews are usually an absolutely essential part of the process of finding a cooler so if you are looking at a model not listed here, I would highly recommend looking at at least two or three professional reviews first.

If you cannot find two reviews of any given cooler, it is likely either too new to have been reviewed yet or it sucked, and nobody wanted to buy one in order to review it plus the manufacturer refused to send samples out to the sites that perform reviews because they knew it would likely get bad publicity.

IMO, nobody out there is making better fans, overall, than Noctua, followed pretty closely by Thermalright. So if you intend to match case fans to the same brand on your HSF, those are pretty hard to beat. Of course, Corsair has it's Maglev fans, and those are pretty damn good too, but since they don't make CPU air cooling products, only AIO water coolers, they cannot join the party.


Noctua NH-D14 (Replace stock fans with NF-A14 industrialPPC 2000rpm)
Noctua NH-D15/D15 SE-AM4
Noctua NH-D14 (With original fans)
Thermalright Silver arrow IB-E Extreme
Phanteks PH-TC14PE (BK,BL, OR or RD)
Cryorig R1 Ultimate or Universal
Thermalright Legrand Macho RT
Thermalright Macho X2
Deepcool Assassin III
Scythe Ninja 5
Thermalright Macho rev. C
Thermalright Macho rev.B
Thermalright ARO-M14G (Ryzen only)
Thermalright Macho direct
Scythe Mugen 5 rev.B
Deepcool Assassin II
Be Quiet Dark rock Pro 4
Noctua NH-U14S
Thermalright true spirit 140 Direct
FSP Windale 6
Scythe Mugen max
BeQuiet dark rock (3 or 4)
Thermalright Macho SBM
Cryorig H5
Noctua NH-U12S
Arctic freezer 34 eSports Duo
Phanteks PH-TC14S
Phanteks PH-TC12DX (Any)
Cryorig H7
Deepcool Gammaxx 400
Cooler Master Hyper 212 (EVO, X, RGB. I'd only recommend this cooler if no other good aftermarket models are available to you.)



It may not be obvious, but is probably worth mentioning, that not all cooler models will fit all CPU sockets as aftermarket coolers generally require an adapter intended for use with that socket. Some coolers that fit an AMD platform might not fit a later AMD platform, or an Intel platform. Often these coolers come with adapters for multiple types of platforms but be sure to verify that a specific cooler WILL work with your platform before purchasing one and finding out later that it will not.
 
Jun 7, 2020
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Ok thanks for the tips guys . Im going to look into those coolers and see what fits the best . I do know that the stock coolers arent that great so i will definitely get an aftermarket and see what happens .
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
What is your case model?

How many case fans do you have?

WHERE is each case fan installed and what orientation, intake or exhaust, is each fan configured for for each location?

It's also very possible that you are simply not getting sufficient airflow through the case or that something is configured incorrectly in that regard. You don't know how many times I've seen people unknowingly and incorrectly install rear or top fans as intake, or all fans as intake, or all fans as exhaust or some other equally silly mess. Typically front, bottom and side fans should always be intake except in a very small handful of niche configurations, and top or rear fans should be exhaust.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
Unfortunately just about every halfway decent cooler on the market right now is either sold out or grossly overpriced due to the current lack of supply to meet the demand.

If possible it would be a really good idea to try and wait a week or two to see if the supply is restored and prices come back down as we expect them to now that container ships are being sent to the US again from China. At least, that's what I've heard from friends who live out on the coast.

In the meantime you can easily determine if your case cooling is playing a role here by removing the side panel and seeing if your thermals improve measurably or not. If they do, and if you can live with the side panel off until you are able to make some upgrades to the cooling, it wouldn't hurt anything.
 

Karadjgne

Titan
Ambassador
Op described the temp jumps of 10ish°C every 5-6 seconds under idle and loads. Idle, that's normal behavior to bump with services stopping and starting, but not with such regularity. It's not normal for loads to do that either. I'm not so sure it's a temp caused cyclic event. It'd be more common if it was software or malware events. There's software like Cam (yes Darkbreeze, your favorite software lol) that initiates intervaled reports, and there's always malware or Trojans that'll do similar.

Might want to sit in task manager /processes and services tabs for a while and check to see if anything is starting up with those time periods. Also do a full malware sweep including root kit's.

That regularity is too even not to be odd. Thermals would by their nature be more responsive to loads, get faster cycles as the heat builds.
 
Jun 7, 2020
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Yea dark , that is my case and I have the MB in the horizontal position rather than the vertical I have the 200mm fan facing the MB and CPU and then the small fans as exhaust . The three fans actually do a really great job at getting rid of heat My MB or Memory never gets hot enough to be of worry . I am also doing a rootkit scan to see if there is any anomallys . Its hard to see in task manager what pops up at the exaxct time that the temp rises . I Also find it strange that when Im in my bios it doesnt shown the jumping of the temp .It just stays at its normal 40°c
 

Karadjgne

Titan
Ambassador
There's no software in bios, just hardware and drivers. You don't get software until after the OS is loaded. Just points further to a software related issue.

Have you used ccleaner and cleaned out the temp/internet temp files and cleaned up your registry?
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
The BIOS/UEFI "IS" software. There isn't any extra software running, but the fact that it is software is pretty clear as in "BIOS setup PROGRAM" or "Unified extensible firmware interface" which is a specification that defines a software interface between an operating system and platform firmware.

I'm sure you didn't mean it like that, but your statement was misleading to me, as I read it. Certainly would be to somebody who didn't know better.

Hit ctrl alt delete and run task manager. Click on the More Details link at the bottom if nothing is showing. Click on the Processes tab. Click the top of the memory column to sort from highest to lowest usage. Take a screenshot. Now do the same thing for CPU. Next, click on the Startup tab and take a screenshot of everything listed there. It MIGHT take more than one screenshot to get everything on the starup tab if you have a lot of programs with startup routines installed.

Post the screenshots here. Instead of pasting a link to an imgur gallery here, actually click on the image in your account images folder so that it brings up this, then copy the code for "direct layouts" and paste THAT here.

Full directions here.



That way we don't have to visit your imgur link to see a full sized version of the image. Either way works I guess.
 

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