Spitfire72,
As with Intel's stock coolers, the Artic Freezer 13 uses the problematic push-pins to secure the cooler to the motherboard. Coolers that use proper fastening hardware with a back plate are highly preferred over coolers which use push-pins. Regardless, whenever you remove the cooler, always check that the thermal compound has a spread pattern that's evenly distributed across both surfaces.
(1) It's very likely that your AF 13 has a push-pin that's either damaged or has popped loose from the motherboard, which is a very common problem. This causes poor contact pressure between the cooler and the CPU, resulting in high temperatures in BIOS, as well as in Windows at idle, and especially when running just a moderate workload.
You can troubleshoot this problem by pushing firmly on each corner of the cooler for about 30 seconds while watching your load temperatures. When you see a significant drop, you've found the loose push-pin.
The push-pins are easy to damage and can be deceivingly tricky to get them fully inserted through the motherboard and properly latched. Even the best and most experienced of us have botched a push-pin at one time or another, so always use a strong light, patience and attention to detail.
(A) To re-seat a single loose push-pin, rotate the latch mechanism in the direction of the arrow counterclockwise 90° then retract the pin by pulling upward. Rotate the latch clockwise 90° to reset the pin, but do NOT push on the latch yet.
(B) To get the pin fully inserted through the motherboard, push only on the leg, NOT on the top of the latch.
(C) While holding the leg firmly against the motherboard with one hand, you can now push on the top of the latch with your other hand until the latch clicks. If your case allows you see the back of the socket, you can closely examine and compare the pins to one another.
(D) If you're re-seating the entire cooler, then be sure to latch the pins across from one another, rather than next to one another. Use an "X" pattern, so as to apply even pressure during installation.
Just for reference purposes, here's a short tutorial that includes dealing with the push-pins -
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qczGR4KMnY
(2) Another possibility which will cause poor contact pressure between the cooler and the CPU is if the retention bracket is loose, which users rarely ever check. Confirm that all 3 allen screws are tight. You'll find that the 2 allen screws near the hinge are a different size than the single screw for the end of the latch plate. If they're even slightly loose and remain unchecked, you'll never find the problem with high Core temperatures.
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3) A third possibility is that Intel's infamous Thermal Interface Material (TIM) between the top of the Die and the underside of the Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS) has lost its thermal bond. As Intel's TIM degrades over time, some 3rd and 4th Generation 22 nanometer processors, (launched 2012 through 2014), may no longer cool as well as when new. Delidding restores and upgrades thermal performance similar to that of soldered processors. Delidding is a last option, but that's how it is.
CT
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