[SOLVED] Will an EVGA N1 550 PSU hold up with an RTX 3070 installed ?

[TheUltraMarine]

Hello again!

My friend is upgrading his 1660 to a new RTX 3070 that's on its way in the mail, just one slight issue, I forgot about his power supply. His build is packing an EVGA N1 550W PSU, though I have no worries that it'll be able to power a 220W card running a Ryzen 3600 alongside it, as PCPartPicker has the total estimated wattage at 389W. However, the PSU has no rating at all, while reviews list it as a decent budget option, I am concerned about its longevity trying to power such a card. So will he be fine, or will he need to upgrade his PSU?

 

[rolli59]

nope http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm
It is a low quality unit as well

 

[TheUltraMarine]

nope http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm
It is a low quality unit as well

I am a tad bit reluctant to follow that guide as some of the information seems a bit.. off? It states that an RTX 3070 only needs a single 8-pin connector, when I clearly can see on my friend's model that it needs two (MSI Gaming GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 2 Fan), is this type of discrepancy normal?

 

[DSzymborski]

I am a tad bit reluctant to follow that guide as some of the information seems a bit.. off? It states that an RTX 3070 only needs a single 8-pin connector, when I clearly can see on my friend's model that it needs two (MSI Gaming GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 2 Fan), is this type of discrepancy normal?

You're conflating the power requirements for a stock GPU with the configuration of an aftermarket GPU, many of which are clocked more aggressively. The RTX 3070's spec calls for 220W which can be handled with a single eight-pin connector (75W for the PCIE slot and the eight-pin connector is cleared for 150W by itself). In fact, the 3070 FE only requires one eight-pin connector with the 12-pin adapter.

As to the initial question, I've never seen an actual review of the N1 that isn't absolutely horrid. Consumer reviews of PSUs aren't actually reviews; consumers don't have the technical equipment and typically, the knowledge base, to separate a good PSU from a poor one. Actual reviews will involve use of a load tester and an oscilloscope.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-650w-n1-power-supply-review

It's a very cheaply made unit from hec. A double-forward group-regulated unit is the equivalent of a Yugo in 2022, and add in cheap capacitors and poorly configured over current protection. It's actually a bit shocking that this PSU is being used with the current GPU, let alone an RTX 3070. This GPU has long been considered a "never buy" type of PSU. There's a significant likelihood that the lifespan of the current GPU has already been shortened, possibly considerably. If the old GPU is being resold, I would feel the need to disclose in any listing the PSU it was powered by, for ethical reasons.

 

[TheUltraMarine]

You're conflating the power requirements for a stock GPU with the configuration of an aftermarket GPU, many of which are clocked more aggressively. The RTX 3070's spec calls for 220W which can be handled with a single eight-pin connector (75W for the PCIE slot and the eight-pin connector is cleared for 150W by itself). In fact, the 3070 FE only requires one eight-pin connector with the 12-pin adapter.

As to the initial question, I've never seen an actual review of the N1 that isn't absolutely horrid. Consumer reviews of PSUs aren't actually reviews; consumers don't have the technical equipment and typically, the knowledge base, to separate a good PSU from a poor one. Actual reviews will involve use of a load tester and an oscilloscope.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-650w-n1-power-supply-review

It's a very cheaply made unit from hec. A double-forward group-regulated unit is the equivalent of a Yugo in 2022, and add in cheap capacitors and poorly configured over current protection. It's actually a bit shocking that this PSU is being used with the current GPU, let alone an RTX 3070. This GPU has long been considered a "never buy" type of PSU. There's a significant likelihood that the lifespan of the current GPU has already been shortened, possibly considerably. If the old GPU is being resold, I would feel the need to disclose in any listing the PSU it was powered by, for ethical reasons.

Goodness, I never thought it could be that bad when I put together his part list, speaking of which, could a bad PSU really affect the components of a PC if a surge or anything bad hasn't happened? That aside, would you recommend an EVGA SuperNOVA G1+ 850W or a SuperNOVA GA 850W? (Or any personal recommendations would also be much appreciated!)

 

[DSzymborski]

Goodness, I never thought it could be that bad when I put together his part list, speaking of which, could a bad PSU really affect the components of a PC if a surge or anything bad hasn't happened? That aside, would you recommend an EVGA SuperNOVA G1+ 850W or a SuperNOVA GA 850W? (Or any personal recommendations would also be much appreciated!)

Yes. Group-regulated PSUs are notoriously awful at dealing with crossloads. They're basically suitable for Pentium III era PCs with GPUs or office rigs. In a modern gaming rig, the vast majority of power needed is +12V power and when you have large loads on +12V and small ones on +3.3V and +5V, group-regulated PSUs fall apart, resulting awful voltage regulation and ripple mitigation, frequently completely out of spec. That includes this one; in Aris' review above, the PSU completely failed ATX spec for ripple when there was a crossload, and ATX spec is notoriously loose on what it allows. You also find a lot of cheap 85-degree capacitors.

Junk PSUs do long-term damage, like eating a pound of bacon for every meal. There's damage long before anyone ends up in a hospital.

The GA and G1+ are better, but not exactly what I would call on the level of a high-end GPU. These were cheaper platforms after EVGA ended their relationship with Super Flower to save money. You want the newer G6, maybe by SeaSonic if EVGA. Or something like a Corsair RMx, SeaSonic Prime, or Super Flower Leadex III. There are lots of ideas in Tier A of the PSU tier list stickied in the PSU forum.

 

[TheUltraMarine]

Yes. Group-regulated PSUs are notoriously awful at dealing with crossloads. They're basically suitable for Pentium III era PCs with GPUs or office rigs. In a modern gaming rig, the vast majority of power needed is +12V power and when you have large loads on +12V and small ones on +3.3V and +5V, group-regulated PSUs fall apart, resulting awful voltage regulation and ripple mitigation, frequently completely out of spec. That includes this one; in Aris' review above, the PSU completely failed ATX spec for ripple when there was a crossload, and ATX spec is notoriously loose on what it allows. You also find a lot of cheap 85-degree capacitors.

The GA and G1+ are better, but not exactly what I would call on the level of a high-end GPU. These were cheaper platforms after EVGA ended their relationship with Super Flower to save money. You want the newer G6, maybe by SeaSonic if EVGA. Or something like a Corsair RMx, SeaSonic Prime, or Super Flower Leadex III. There are lots of ideas in Tier A of the PSU tier list stickied in the PSU forum.

I was actually considering the Corsair RM850x, decided if I was gonna recommend him one, it'd be one that was actually good, at least according to this website.

 

[DSzymborski]

I was actually considering the Corsair RM850x, decided if I was gonna recommend him one, it'd be one that was actually good, at least according to this website.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-rm850x-2021-power-supply-review

It can't be easy to upgrade a platform that was already among the best in the Gold efficiency category, but Corsair managed to do it with CWT's help. The new Corsair RM850x achieves higher overall performance than its predecessor thanks to its amazing ripple suppression, tighter load regulation and higher efficiency, especially at light loads. The hold-up time is also longer, while inrush currents remain at the same low levels. The only sections where the old RM850x prevails are transient response at 3.3V, which is not of great importance, and noise output because of the more aggressive fan speed profile and the new ML fan of the new unit. Despite the increased overall noise output, we still prefer the new ML fan because it is super reliable even under high operating temperatures.

 

[Viking2121]

Yeah I wouldn't trust it, even if it does work, it probably wont work long, I've tripped one of these PSU's with a HD5870 before and a old Phenom II x6 1100T.

I'd probably say you'd be fine if it was a quality unit, but its pretty low end, plenty for a 1660, but i'm afraid that 3070 would just push it to far and it could take the entire system with it if it does go out, PSU isn't something you should play around with.

 

[Bob.B]

Hello again!

My friend is upgrading his 1660 with a new RTX 3070 that's on its way in the mail, just one slight issue, I forgot about his power supply. His build is packing an EVGA N1 550W PSU, though I have no worries that it'll be able to power a 220W card running a Ryzen 3600 alongside it, as PCPartPicker has the total estimated wattage at 389W. However, the PSU has no rating at all, while reviews list it as a decent budget option, I am concerned about its longevity trying to power such a card. So will he be fine, or will he need to upgrade his PSU?

Upgrade.
The 550w should be fine....bigger won't hurt.
Shop for a quality unit.
One of the areas to look at is warranty.
Ranking good/better/best........5yr/7yr/10yr.
When you find something you like read the reviews.

 

[rolli59]

I am a tad bit reluctant to follow that guide as some of the information seems a bit.. off? It states that an RTX 3070 only needs a single 8-pin connector, when I clearly can see on my friend's model that it needs two (MSI Gaming GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 2 Fan), is this type of discrepancy normal?

Others have already answered but that is a good chart as a baseline of what you need. The numbers in there are generous because of not all PSU units are high quality. The 550N1 is not a quality unit and going for the RMx 850 is a good choice.

 

[TheUltraMarine]

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-rm850x-2021-power-supply-review

By the way, how would he go about testing his components to see if they've been damaged? I also had recommended for his father's build an EVGA 750 BQ for his 5600X and 1660 Super when they built it, the PSU is nothing special according to the Tomshardware review, but it should be decent, right?

 

[DSzymborski]

By the way, how would he go about testing his components to see if they've been damaged? I also had recommended for his father's build an EVGA 750 BQ for his 5600X and 1660 Super when they built it, the PSU is nothing special according to the Tomshardware review, but it should be decent, right?

There really isn't a practical way and even in the parts where it's practical, it would require a lot of dissection.

The BQ is OK for a 1660 Super. I probably wouldn't choose this one, but this one is way better than the N1. Certainly not for a 3070 though!

 

[TheUltraMarine]

There really isn't a practical way and even in the parts where it's practical, it would require a lot of dissection.

The BQ is OK for a 1660 Super. I probably wouldn't choose this one, but this one is way better than the N1. Certainly not for a 3070 though!

So just clear signs of malfunction would ultimately be the red flag that something is damaged, correct? If so, any examples of big malfunctions that could arise?

 

[DSzymborski]

So just clear signs of malfunction would ultimately be the red flag that something is damaged, correct? If so, any examples of big malfunctions that could arise?

Generally speaking, early failures such as black screens or artifacting or possibly bulging capacitors. It's no use worrying about it because any damage is already done and there's usually not much that can be done to remedy the situation.

 

[TheUltraMarine]

Generally speaking, early failures such as black screens or artifacting or possibly bulging capacitors. It's no use worrying about it because any damage is already done and there's usually not much that can be done to remedy the situation.

To him, getting a remedy for the damage is not the solution, it would just be buying new components, thus why I asked, so in the event such a malfunction was to occur he'd be able to promptly replace the component. Although, thanks for all your help!