Will my PSU be enough for the Asus Strix OC 1080 ti?

[TheOneAndOnlyEcon]

Hey guys, i really need to know whether i gotta get a new power supply before upgrading

Current specs:

500 Watt Gold PSU
Gigabyte Gtx 970
I7-4770@3.6Ghz
Some 8 Gigs of DDR3
Asus H87
250 Evo ssd
1TB HDD
Corsair K70 Full RGB Keyboard
Microphone(just listing theese for power consumption)
Headset
External Dac(Audioengine A1)
Some Logitec Controller
USB Hub

Now, i want to upgrade to the Asus Strix OC Edition(1080ti) as soon as it comes out. Can i do this with my current PSU/Setup? I am also looking to up the power of the GPU to its max(120%) and overclock it as much as i can get out of it with basic air cooling and without pusing it to its absolute limits.

Edit: Pc Partpicker says it needs 432 watts with the asus strix turbo (i will get the Gaming one tough, and try to OC a bit)

 

[raisonjohn]

What is your exact PSU brand/model?

 

[TheOneAndOnlyEcon]

What is your exact PSU brand/model?

i can't tell you right now, i am not at home and i can't find my account from the site where i bought it... will tell you asap

 

[raisonjohn]

All right, no prob. For initial info:

The Asus Strix GTX 1080 Ti OC requires one 6-pin PCIE power connector and one 8-pin PCIE power connector from your PSU: https://www.asus.com/us/Graphics-Cards/ROG-STRIX-GTX1080-O8G-GAMING/specifications/. So, with these connections, theoretically, the GPU can draw as much as 300W at +12VDC (75W from PCIe x16 slot + 75W from 6-pin + 150W from 8-pin). That particular GPU can draw as much as 293W during peak gaming loads, as tested here: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/GTX_1080_Ti_Strix_OC/27.html.

Your i7-4770 has a TDP of 84W according to Intel: https://ark.intel.com/products/75122/Intel-Core-i7-4770-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz. This roughly translates to 84W of power draw +12VDC.

So, CPU + GPU power draw would be around ~293W + ~84W = ~377W. Add a bit more headroom for other components (RAM, HDD, etc.), we can estimate not more than around ~400W at max. power consumption on a given time.

Check your PSU if it has enough continuous wattage, esp. at the +12V rail/s. If the 500W PSU has, say, 38A ~ 40A at +12V (equal to ~456W to ~480W), then you'd be safe as far as amount of power provided by the PSU is concerned. If it's below 38A, you might be pushing the power to the limits.

Note that the best efficiency in PSU consumption curves is achieved at around 50% usage of the power provided. So, say you are consuming 250W, a PSU providing 500W continuous power would have the highest efficiency than a 400W or 750W PSU.

The PSU model and build-quality/reliability/warranty is another concern. Not all PSU's that provide ample wattage/amperage are good quality units.

 

[TheOneAndOnlyEcon]

All right, no prob. For initial info:

The Asus Strix GTX 1080 Ti OC requires one 6-pin PCIE power connector and one 8-pin PCIE power connector from your PSU: https://www.asus.com/us/Graphics-Cards/ROG-STRIX-GTX1080-O8G-GAMING/specifications/. So, with these connections, theoretically, the GPU can draw as much as 300W at +12VDC (75W from PCIe x16 slot + 75W from 6-pin + 150W from 8-pin). That particular GPU can draw as much as 293W during peak gaming loads, as tested here: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/GTX_1080_Ti_Strix_OC/27.html.

Your i7-4770 has a TDP of 84W according to Intel: https://ark.intel.com/products/75122/Intel-Core-i7-4770-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz. This roughly translates to 84W of power draw +12VDC.

So, CPU + GPU power draw would be around ~293W + ~84W = ~377W. Add a bit more headroom for other components (RAM, HDD, etc.), we can estimate not more than around ~400W at max. power consumption on a given time.

Check your PSU if it has enough continuous wattage, esp. at the +12V rail/s. If the 500W PSU has, say, 38A ~ 40A at +12V (equal to ~456W to ~480W), then you'd be safe as far as amount of power provided by the PSU is concerned. If it's below 38A, you might be pushing the power to the limits.

Note that the best efficiency in PSU consumption curves is achieved at around 50% usage of the power provided. So, say you are consuming 250W, a PSU providing 500W continuous power would have the highest efficiency than a 400W or 750W PSU.

The PSU model and build-quality/reliability/warranty is another concern. Not all PSU's that provide ample wattage/amperage are good quality units.

wow, i did not expect such a detailed answer! Really appreciate your effort, thanks.
So i will check my psu as soon as i get home, but i didn't really get the math part of:
Check your PSU if it has enough continuous wattage, esp. at the +12V rail/s. If the 500W PSU has, say, 38A ~ 40A at +12V (equal to ~456W to ~480W), then you'd be safe as far as amount of power provided by the PSU is concerned. If it's below 38A, you might be pushing the power to the limits."
What's a 12V rail? Am i correct assuming that a 12V rail is a cable plug at the PSU?

And how do you see it with overclocking? Should i leave my hands off getting some boost into it, or can i go on with it if i have enough power, pushing it to close 500W?

Or let's say, during gaming sessions i get a stable 350W, i would be better of with a 750W PSU because of that 50%?
I got one of thoose lying around from my parents, will check it out and give you all the specs in about 10 Hrs(sadly, when i get home)

 

[raisonjohn]

wow, i did not expect such a detailed answer! Really appreciate your effort, thanks.
So i will check my psu as soon as i get home, but i didn't really get the math part of:
Check your PSU if it has enough continuous wattage, esp. at the +12V rail/s. If the 500W PSU has, say, 38A ~ 40A at +12V (equal to ~456W to ~480W), then you'd be safe as far as amount of power provided by the PSU is concerned. If it's below 38A, you might be pushing the power to the limits."
What's a 12V rail? Am i correct assuming that a 12V rail is a cable plug at the PSU?

And how do you see it with overclocking? Should i leave my hands off getting some boost into it, or can i go on with it if i have enough power, pushing it to close 500W?

Or let's say, during gaming sessions i get a stable 350W, i would be better of with a 750W PSU because of that 50%?
I got one of thoose lying around from my parents, will check it out and give you all the specs in about 10 Hrs(sadly, when i get home)

Your PSU should have a sticker on the side (or info on the box) that looks like this:

Pay particular attention to the red box (that is the +12V rail).

A +12V rail is the rail that powers most of the PC components (CPU, GPU, RAM, motherboard sockets/headers, fans, sometimes, HDDs and SSDs but not always). The other rails, such as the +3.3V (most often used almost exclusively by the HDD, SSD and ODD) and the +5V (USBs) are not as critical as the +12V.

Some PSUs market their units as "500W" but really provides less wattage than that at the critical +12V rail. As the example above, the 500W PSU offers a maximum 480W power at 12VDC.

All of the cables that come with your PSU has a wire for a 12V DC power. So, the +12V rail of your PSU supplies all of the components that would need 12V DC power.

How much power is being consumed with overclocking is a case-to-case basis and can vary depending on the test equipment used, methodology, games or programs being tested and components installed. Check out test/benchmarks with similar setup as yours (you'll find different values). The initial info on the GPU OC'd I provided you is more or less close to what you'll be experiencing (as the GPU can only draw a max. of 300W based on the number of power connectors it has).

On your theoretical example (350W stable session), yes, the 750W PSU would be most efficient due to just using 50% of power.

However, it's difficult to get a stable power draw (unless on idle). Each game or program or setting would differ in power consumption one way or another as time progresses (it should be an erratic graph rather than a smooth curve or flat line).

In my example (and other usual tests/benchmarks), the power consumption values are usually PEAK loads (not average consumption). Meaning, if 350W is a peak power draw and you'd probably be hovering around way less than that.

 

[TheOneAndOnlyEcon]

wow, i did not expect such a detailed answer! Really appreciate your effort, thanks.
So i will check my psu as soon as i get home, but i didn't really get the math part of:
Check your PSU if it has enough continuous wattage, esp. at the +12V rail/s. If the 500W PSU has, say, 38A ~ 40A at +12V (equal to ~456W to ~480W), then you'd be safe as far as amount of power provided by the PSU is concerned. If it's below 38A, you might be pushing the power to the limits."
What's a 12V rail? Am i correct assuming that a 12V rail is a cable plug at the PSU?

And how do you see it with overclocking? Should i leave my hands off getting some boost into it, or can i go on with it if i have enough power, pushing it to close 500W?

Or let's say, during gaming sessions i get a stable 350W, i would be better of with a 750W PSU because of that 50%?
I got one of thoose lying around from my parents, will check it out and give you all the specs in about 10 Hrs(sadly, when i get home)

Your PSU should have a sticker on the side (or info on the box) that looks like this:

Pay particular attention to the red box (that is the +12V rail).

A +12V rail is the rail that powers most of the PC components (CPU, GPU, RAM, motherboard sockets/headers, fans, sometimes, HDDs and SSDs but not always). The other rails, such as the +3.3V (most often used almost exclusively by the HDD, SSD and ODD) and the +5V (USBs) are not as critical as the +12V.

Some PSUs market their units as "500W" but really provides less wattage than that at the critical +12V rail. As the example above, the 500W PSU offers a maximum 480W power at 12VDC.

All of the cables that come with your PSU has a wire for a 12V DC power. So, the +12V rail of your PSU supplies all of the components that would need 12V DC power.

How much power is being consumed with overclocking is a case-to-case basis and can vary depending on the test equipment used, methodology, games or programs being tested and components installed. Check out test/benchmarks with similar setup as yours (you'll find different values). The initial info on the GPU OC'd I provided you is more or less close to what you'll be experiencing (as the GPU can only draw a max. of 300W based on the number of power connectors it has).

On your theoretical example (350W stable session), yes, the 750W PSU would be most efficient due to just using 50% of power.

However, it's difficult to get a stable power draw (unless on idle). Each game or program or setting would differ in power consumption one way or another as time progresses (it should be an erratic graph rather than a smooth curve or flat line).

In my example (and other usual tests/benchmarks), the power consumption values are usually PEAK loads (not average consumption). Meaning, if 350W is a peak power draw and you'd probably be hovering around way less than that.

So i just got home and checked the PSU's. Neither of them got a 12V Rail, but a whole bunch of 12V rails with some small number under it. In total the ones on the bigger reach 48V but on the smaller one they do not. Can i use the bigger one? I figured so much as that the smaller one won't do the job. I also realised that its not a 500W and a 750one but a 550 one and a 700 one

 

[rcald2000]

TheOneAndOnlyEcon The thought of either of those power supplies matched up with a 1080 Ti, scares me. The FSP Hexa series, has two 12V rails dividing only 408 watts. The 1080 Ti has spec TDP of 250 watts. In addition it states "peak" wattage, which is almost always a sign of poor quality. The ASM power supply is suspect to me as well, not to mention that I've never heard of the brand. If you had to use it, the V3 or V4 rails (28A) would be the only acceptable choices, but I personally wouldn't entrust my $700 GPU to it. I strongly recommend that you upgrade. The example below is one of my personal favorites. You could step down to the gold efficiency equivalent (EVGA G2 650) and save $10. There are many other quality power supplies out there, but they are going to cost within $20 of this model.

EVGA P2 650
$109.99 ($5.99 Shipping)
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438055

 

[raisonjohn]

So i just got home and checked the PSU's. Neither of them got a 12V Rail, but a whole bunch of 12V rails with some small number under it. In total the ones on the bigger reach 48V but on the smaller one they do not. Can i use the bigger one? I figured so much as that the smaller one won't do the job. I also realised that its not a 500W and a 750one but a 550 one and a 700 one

The first photo you posted is the NesteQ ASM XZero XZ-700 700W PSU, made by Enhance Electronics. It has 6x +12V rails (at 20A to 28A each) with a total combined power output of 660W (i.e., 55A). That semi-modular PSU includes 4x PCIE 6/8-pin cables which is an indication that it was meant for multi-GPU (or high-powered GPU) use. Warranty is only 3 years though. Though this PSU can supply enough juice to power your i7-4770 + GTX 1080 Ti, it certainly is not the best in quality, built, and efficiency. http://www.techradar.com/reviews/pc-mac/pc-components/cases-cooling/power-supplies/nesteq-xzero-700w-716970/review

The second photo you posted is the FSP HEXA HE-500 500W PSU, made by FSP themselves. It has 2x +12V rails (at 18A each) with a total combined power output only 408W (i.e., 34A). That non-modular PSU only includes 1x PCIE 6-pin and 1x PCIE 8-pin cable (but specs may differ against your actual unit). Warranty is worse at only 2 years. As we have estimated in my previous posts, the 34A provided at the +12V rail of this PSU won't cut it for the i7-4770 + GTX 1080 Ti. Apart from this unit not being able to power your rig, it also is certainly intended for budget builds. http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=341 (review of HE-400, which is similar to the HE-500).

Between the two PSUs you currently have, it is obvious that the NesteQ 700W is the only option to use to provide enough power to your setup. However, you can do better in terms of quality, reliability, and efficiency with other brand/models.

I would personally recommend, if you have the budget, to upgrade your current PSU to a better one. Other alternatives to consider are:

Seasonic G-550 550W (~$70 to ~$80)
Semi/Hybrid-Modular | 80+ Gold | 540W (45A) at +12V rail | 2x 6/8-pin | 5-Year Warranty

Seasonic G-650 650W (~$80 to ~$100)
Semi/Hybrid-Modular | 80+ Gold | 648W (54A) at +12V rail | 4x 6/8-pin | 5-Year Warranty

Corsair RM550x 550W (~$80 to ~$110)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 550W (45.8A) at +12V rail | 2x 6/8-pin | 10-Year Warranty

Corsair RM650x 650W (~$110 to ~$130)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 648W (54A) at +12V rail | 4x 6/8-pin | 10-Year Warranty

Corsair RM650i 650W (~$120 to ~$135)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 648W (54A) at +12V rail | 4x 6/8-pin | 10-Year Warranty

EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W (~$80 to ~$95)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 549.6W (45.8A) at +12V rail | 2x 6/8-pin + 1x 6-pin | 7-Year Warranty

EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W (~$90 to ~$105)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 649.2W (54.1A) at +12V rail | 2x 6/8-pin + 2x 6-pin | 7-Year Warranty

EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550W (~$85 to ~$105)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 549.6W (45.8A) at +12V rail | 3x 6/8-pin | 7-Year Warranty

EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650W (~$100 to ~$115)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 649.2W (54.1A) at +12V rail | 3x 6/8-pin | 7-Year Warranty

 

[TheOneAndOnlyEcon]

The first photo you posted is the NesteQ ASM XZero XZ-700 700W PSU, made by Enhance Electronics. It has 6x +12V rails (at 20A to 28A each) with a total combined power output of 660W (i.e., 55A). That semi-modular PSU includes 4x PCIE 6/8-pin cables which is an indication that it was meant for multi-GPU (or high-powered GPU) use. Warranty is only 3 years though. Though this PSU can supply enough juice to power your i7-4770 + GTX 1080 Ti, it certainly is not the best in quality, built, and efficiency. http://www.techradar.com/reviews/pc-mac/pc-components/cases-cooling/power-supplies/nesteq-xzero-700w-716970/review

The second photo you posted is the FSP HEXA HE-500 500W PSU, made by FSP themselves. It has 2x +12V rails (at 18A each) with a total combined power output only 408W (i.e., 34A). That non-modular PSU only includes 1x PCIE 6-pin and 1x PCIE 8-pin cable (but specs may differ against your actual unit). Warranty is worse at only 2 years. As we have estimated in my previous posts, the 34A provided at the +12V rail of this PSU won't cut it for the i7-4770 + GTX 1080 Ti. Apart from this unit not being able to power your rig, it also is certainly intended for budget builds. http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=341 (review of HE-400, which is similar to the HE-500).

Between the two PSUs you currently have, it is obvious that the NesteQ 700W is the only option to use to provide enough power to your setup. However, you can do better in terms of quality, reliability, and efficiency with other brand/models.

I would personally recommend, if you have the budget, to upgrade your current PSU to a better one. Other alternatives to consider are:

Seasonic G-550 550W (~$70 to ~$80)
Semi/Hybrid-Modular | 80+ Gold | 540W (45A) at +12V rail | 2x 6/8-pin | 5-Year Warranty

Seasonic G-650 650W (~$80 to ~$100)
Semi/Hybrid-Modular | 80+ Gold | 648W (54A) at +12V rail | 4x 6/8-pin | 5-Year Warranty

Corsair RM550x 550W (~$80 to ~$110)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 550W (45.8A) at +12V rail | 2x 6/8-pin | 10-Year Warranty

Corsair RM650x 650W (~$110 to ~$130)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 648W (54A) at +12V rail | 4x 6/8-pin | 10-Year Warranty

Corsair RM650i 650W (~$120 to ~$135)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 648W (54A) at +12V rail | 4x 6/8-pin | 10-Year Warranty

EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W (~$80 to ~$95)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 549.6W (45.8A) at +12V rail | 2x 6/8-pin + 1x 6-pin | 7-Year Warranty

EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W (~$90 to ~$105)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 649.2W (54.1A) at +12V rail | 2x 6/8-pin + 2x 6-pin | 7-Year Warranty

EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550W (~$85 to ~$105)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 549.6W (45.8A) at +12V rail | 3x 6/8-pin | 7-Year Warranty

EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650W (~$100 to ~$115)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 649.2W (54.1A) at +12V rail | 3x 6/8-pin | 7-Year Warranty

so, this will sound super sad. Just yesterday i managed to destroy my mother board... Now i had to order a whole new set of cpu, ram and motherboard. I ordered a i7-7700k, the asus strix z270e and 16 gigs of corsair dominator ddr 4.
Now, this kinda hurts my budget, cause its 800 bucks down the drain. Well, i guess my stupidity will pay the price. Now i still have enough money left to get the gtx1080ti, but if i have to get a power supply, well, its shit but i can manage it. Now my question is, how important is it. Is it just"the other one is probably not that good and upgrading won't hurt" or is it, "this current psu will probably damage some of your components because its cheap?"

and if i were to not upgrade, i could just use the pci expresses and connect a 6 pin and a 8 pin right? because the guy above said to use something with 3v or 4v, didn't really understand that


again, i really appreciate your help, and thanks for looking at some psu's for me!


https://www.digitec.ch/en/s1/product/corsair-rm650i-650w-power-supply-computer-5604833
Sorry for the weird
this is the one i am thinking about right now
site, its a swiss site where i basically order all my stuff from. They don't offer the 650 one, and this one isn't to expensive either but is a g3 one, it will do a more than sufficient job, right?(and after all, is still affordeable)

edit 2: I just realised that i have to buy some extra cables if i swap to another power brick, the 700w(wich is in the system right now) is only semi modular, the 2 cables for the motherboard are not modular

 

[Mike_144]

Get a new PSU... You risk the new components going into the drain if you dont give them some love.

The PSU is the most importent part of your PC.

 

[raisonjohn]

so, this will sound super sad. Just yesterday i managed to destroy my mother board... Now i had to order a whole new set of cpu, ram and motherboard. I ordered a i7-7700k, the asus strix z270e and 16 gigs of corsair dominator ddr 4.
Now, this kinda hurts my budget, cause its 800 bucks down the drain. Well, i guess my stupidity will pay the price. Now i still have enough money left to get the gtx1080ti, but if i have to get a power supply, well, its shit but i can manage it. Now my question is, how important is it. Is it just"the other one is probably not that good and upgrading won't hurt" or is it, "this current psu will probably damage some of your components because its cheap?"

and if i were to not upgrade, i could just use the pci expresses and connect a 6 pin and a 8 pin right? because the guy above said to use something with 3v or 4v, didn't really understand that

again, i really appreciate your help, and thanks for looking at some psu's for me!

Ooh.. tough luck... Your new i7-7700K + Asus Z270E + 16GB DDR4 is a nice replacement though.

I'd suggest you get a good quality but affordable CPU Cooler (Air Cooler) for that unlocked i7 (such as the Cryorig H7 or Cryorig H5, depending on the height clearance of your current chassis).

Know that your previous i7-4770 and your new i7-7700K would have a considerable difference in power consumption now. As we estimated before, the i7-4770 would only roughly consume 84W (it's TDP). But with the i7-7700K, it's based TDP is 91W, and that's non-OC'd. If you choose to OC the CPU, then it'll hover around ~20-30W above TDP (or roughly ~110-120W) depending on how much you OC.

In this case, if you want to use your current PSU, I'd probably (just me) not push OC to its limits, just to be safe (more because of the quality/reliability of the PSU than the amperage/wattage it can provide).

The PSU is, arguably (to some), THE most important component in your rig. You never want to skimp on a buying a good-quality PSU for just ~$100 or so, to handle all your components worth ~$1500+.

Not also sure about what the "using V3 or V4 rails" means. As far as I know, you don't have control over which rails in a multi-rail +12V PSU will use what. All these multi-rail amperages doesn't matter, what matters is the combined total of all these rails. In your case, the NesteQ ASM XZero XZ-700 outputs 660W (which is equal to 55A) and should be more than enough power even for an i7-7700K + GTX 1080Ti rig.

Also, note that Kaby Lake CPU's (such as your new i7-7700K) would require Windows 10 (it won't be supported on previous Windows versions), so you might keep that in mind too (http://www.pcgamer.com/microsoft-turns-off-windows-781-updates-for-ryzen-and-kaby-lake/).

 

[TheOneAndOnlyEcon]

so, this will sound super sad. Just yesterday i managed to destroy my mother board... Now i had to order a whole new set of cpu, ram and motherboard. I ordered a i7-7700k, the asus strix z270e and 16 gigs of corsair dominator ddr 4.
Now, this kinda hurts my budget, cause its 800 bucks down the drain. Well, i guess my stupidity will pay the price. Now i still have enough money left to get the gtx1080ti, but if i have to get a power supply, well, its shit but i can manage it. Now my question is, how important is it. Is it just"the other one is probably not that good and upgrading won't hurt" or is it, "this current psu will probably damage some of your components because its cheap?"

and if i were to not upgrade, i could just use the pci expresses and connect a 6 pin and a 8 pin right? because the guy above said to use something with 3v or 4v, didn't really understand that

again, i really appreciate your help, and thanks for looking at some psu's for me!

Ooh.. tough luck... Your new i7-7700K + Asus Z270E + 16GB DDR4 is a nice replacement though.

I'd suggest you get a good quality but affordable CPU Cooler (Air Cooler) for that unlocked i7 (such as the Cryorig H7 or Cryorig H5, depending on the height clearance of your current chassis).

Know that your previous i7-4770 and your new i7-7700K would have a considerable difference in power consumption now. As we estimated before, the i7-4770 would only roughly consume 84W (it's TDP). But with the i7-7700K, it's based TDP is 91W, and that's non-OC'd. If you choose to OC the CPU, then it'll hover around ~20-30W above TDP (or roughly ~110-120W) depending on how much you OC.

In this case, if you want to use your current PSU, I'd probably (just me) not push OC to its limits, just to be safe (more because of the quality/reliability of the PSU than the amperage/wattage it can provide).

The PSU is, arguably (to some), THE most important component in your rig. You never want to skimp on a buying a good-quality PSU for just ~$100 or so, to handle all your components worth ~$1500+.

Not also sure about what the "using V3 or V4 rails" means. As far as I know, you don't have control over which rails in a multi-rail +12V PSU will use what. All these multi-rail amperages doesn't matter, what matters is the combined total of all these rails. In your case, the NesteQ ASM XZero XZ-700 outputs 660W (which is equal to 55A) and should be more than enough power even for an i7-7700K + GTX 1080Ti rig.

Also, note that Kaby Lake CPU's (such as your new i7-7700K) would require Windows 10 (it won't be supported on previous Windows versions), so you might keep that in mind too (http://www.pcgamer.com/microsoft-turns-off-windows-781-updates-for-ryzen-and-kaby-lake/).

I think i will stick with the psu then, for the moment. I am not planning on overclocking the cpu, but the Gpu i'd like to Overclock a bit. I won't push it to the limits tough, i am not a hearty overclocker. Just give it some extra MHZ but i don't wanna push it too bad. I assume the psu will be fine then.
I did think of buying a decent CPU Cooler and decided to go for the Be Quiet! Pure Rock 15.5 Cm one since it was in sale and had really good reviews.(its also gonna fit into my case 😉 )

i luckily have windows 10, and as long i won't mess up my installation, thanks to you, i will have a decent computer set up for the next few years.

 

[TheOneAndOnlyEcon]

so, this will sound super sad. Just yesterday i managed to destroy my mother board... Now i had to order a whole new set of cpu, ram and motherboard. I ordered a i7-7700k, the asus strix z270e and 16 gigs of corsair dominator ddr 4.
Now, this kinda hurts my budget, cause its 800 bucks down the drain. Well, i guess my stupidity will pay the price. Now i still have enough money left to get the gtx1080ti, but if i have to get a power supply, well, its shit but i can manage it. Now my question is, how important is it. Is it just"the other one is probably not that good and upgrading won't hurt" or is it, "this current psu will probably damage some of your components because its cheap?"

and if i were to not upgrade, i could just use the pci expresses and connect a 6 pin and a 8 pin right? because the guy above said to use something with 3v or 4v, didn't really understand that

again, i really appreciate your help, and thanks for looking at some psu's for me!

Ooh.. tough luck... Your new i7-7700K + Asus Z270E + 16GB DDR4 is a nice replacement though.

I'd suggest you get a good quality but affordable CPU Cooler (Air Cooler) for that unlocked i7 (such as the Cryorig H7 or Cryorig H5, depending on the height clearance of your current chassis).

Know that your previous i7-4770 and your new i7-7700K would have a considerable difference in power consumption now. As we estimated before, the i7-4770 would only roughly consume 84W (it's TDP). But with the i7-7700K, it's based TDP is 91W, and that's non-OC'd. If you choose to OC the CPU, then it'll hover around ~20-30W above TDP (or roughly ~110-120W) depending on how much you OC.

In this case, if you want to use your current PSU, I'd probably (just me) not push OC to its limits, just to be safe (more because of the quality/reliability of the PSU than the amperage/wattage it can provide).

The PSU is, arguably (to some), THE most important component in your rig. You never want to skimp on a buying a good-quality PSU for just ~$100 or so, to handle all your components worth ~$1500+.

Not also sure about what the "using V3 or V4 rails" means. As far as I know, you don't have control over which rails in a multi-rail +12V PSU will use what. All these multi-rail amperages doesn't matter, what matters is the combined total of all these rails. In your case, the NesteQ ASM XZero XZ-700 outputs 660W (which is equal to 55A) and should be more than enough power even for an i7-7700K + GTX 1080Ti rig.

Also, note that Kaby Lake CPU's (such as your new i7-7700K) would require Windows 10 (it won't be supported on previous Windows versions), so you might keep that in mind too (http://www.pcgamer.com/microsoft-turns-off-windows-781-updates-for-ryzen-and-kaby-lake/).

I think i will stick with the psu then, for the moment. I am not planning on overclocking the cpu, but the Gpu i'd like to Overclock a bit. I won't push it to the limits tough, i am not a hearty overclocker. Just give it some extra MHZ but i don't wanna push it too bad. I assume the psu will be fine then.
I did think of buying a decent CPU Cooler and decided to go for the Be Quiet! Pure Rock 15.5 Cm one since it was in sale and had really good reviews.(its also gonna fit into my case 😉 )

i luckily have windows 10, and as long i won't mess up my installation, thanks to you, i will have a decent computer set up for the next few years.

 

[godspeedshredder]

I would personally recommend, if you have the budget, to upgrade your current PSU to a better one. Other alternatives to consider are:

Seasonic G-550 550W (~$70 to ~$80)
Semi/Hybrid-Modular | 80+ Gold | 540W (45A) at +12V rail | 2x 6/8-pin | 5-Year Warranty

Seasonic G-650 650W (~$80 to ~$100)
Semi/Hybrid-Modular | 80+ Gold | 648W (54A) at +12V rail | 4x 6/8-pin | 5-Year Warranty

Corsair RM550x 550W (~$80 to ~$110)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 550W (45.8A) at +12V rail | 2x 6/8-pin | 10-Year Warranty

Corsair RM650x 650W (~$110 to ~$130)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 648W (54A) at +12V rail | 4x 6/8-pin | 10-Year Warranty

Corsair RM650i 650W (~$120 to ~$135)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 648W (54A) at +12V rail | 4x 6/8-pin | 10-Year Warranty

EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W (~$80 to ~$95)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 549.6W (45.8A) at +12V rail | 2x 6/8-pin + 1x 6-pin | 7-Year Warranty

EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W (~$90 to ~$105)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 649.2W (54.1A) at +12V rail | 2x 6/8-pin + 2x 6-pin | 7-Year Warranty

EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550W (~$85 to ~$105)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 549.6W (45.8A) at +12V rail | 3x 6/8-pin | 7-Year Warranty

EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650W (~$100 to ~$115)
Fully-Modular | 80+ Gold | 649.2W (54.1A) at +12V rail | 3x 6/8-pin | 7-Year Warranty
[/quotemsg]

Hello!! I just joined the site, searching for info on this topic. And i would also like to have your help in this matter, cause i want to buy an Asus Strix 1080ti but don't know if my current PSU will be able to handle it. My PSU is an EVGA 600B, i don't know much about overclocking stuff but i am soooo sure i will try it when i get my Strix, so will i be ok with my current PSU? As for my PC setup, it goes like this:

Motherboard: Asus B150 Gaming Pro Aura
CPU: Intel I7 6700 (nonK)
Ram: Kingston Fury DDR4 32gb
PSU: EVGA 600B
4 chasis fans (corsair AF120 with led)
Cooler: Lepa120
HDD: Western Digital 2tb (x2)
DVDRW unit

I thank you so much in advance, and hope the info i get from you is also useful to others 😀 see you!! and thanks!!