[SOLVED] Windows 10 attempted to write to readonly memory Blue Screen

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antiglobal

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I am having random crashes in games (World of Tanks, GTA V), meaning that games crash to desktop. But I also get Blue Screens (once a Red and once an Orange screen too), mostly while gaming, but also when Windows is doing basically nothing (just "sitting" on the desktop).

This "attempted to write to read only memory" error I get every day.

I have uploaded a DMP file of the last time this happened (today): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NYptLFf8wtk28Yg2PFHcX0EJN7m4cUNv/view?usp=sharing

Can someone please take a look at it and tell what specifically is causing the problem?

My specs are:

AMD A10-7850K (turbo boost set to 4.2 GHz in BIOS, stock was 4.0 GHz)
16 GB (4x4 GB) DDR3 @2133 MHz (2 GB allocated to the integrated GPU) - 2 pairs of Kinston HyperX Beast 2400 MHz 4GB and 2 pairs of Kinston HyperX Beast 2133 MHz
Gigabyte F2A88XM-D3H Rev. 3.0 (BIOS version F8)
LC-Power LC-420H-12 (PSU)
Raijintek Aidos (CPU cooler)
Dell 1080p 23'' monitor
Windows 10 Proffesional 64-bit
Radeon 19.8.1 drivers (19.8.2 now)
 
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antiglobal

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This is the relatively new install of Windows 10. I had Windows 7 before that, and it worked fine. Less than a year ago, Windows 7 failed beyond repair so I did a fresh install of Windows 10. I think that problems started with that.

But to do a clean install again, install all the drivers and programs and games again. Adjust all the settings again. To make everything be as it is now, from scratch. I would rather through a computer in a river. I would not do it even if someone paid me too. I only do it when OS completely dies.
Beside, reinstalling a complete OS, without even trying to pinpoint the problem would be like swaping a whole engine in a car because it hickups form time to time, without even reading the error codes on an ECU.

The sole reason for this topic is for someone to read the DUMP file, and point out the problem. Because I don't know how to do that.
 

Colif

Win 11 Master
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I won't be around for a few hours as its late here, others may jump in and help as well.

Beside, reinstalling a complete OS, without even trying to pinpoint the problem would be like swaping a whole engine in a car because it hickups form time to time, without even reading the error codes on an ECU.

Clean install is sort of last step after we try everything else. It feels like giving up, but sometimes it is necessary. Probably not on a new PC though.

"attempted to write to read only memory"

appears to be the error of the month
 
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gardenman

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Hi, I ran the dump file through the debugger and got the following information: https://pste.eu/p/d6Bg.html

File information:090119-8968-01.dmp (Sep 1 2019 - 03:53:08)
Bugcheck:ATTEMPTED_WRITE_TO_READONLY_MEMORY (BE)
Probably caused by:memory_corruption (Process: System)
Uptime:6 Day(s), 22 Hour(s), 34 Min(s), and 06 Sec(s)

Comment: 2 or more types of RAM are installed.

Any recent system changes?

How long have you had the 2 different types of RAM installed?

There's multiple revisions of your motherboard so it's difficult for me to guess which version of the F2A88XM-D3H that you have. There could be BIOS updates but I don't want to point you to the wrong page. You have BIOS version F8 (04/09/2015) installed.

This information can be used by others to help you. I can't help you with this. Someone else will post with more information. Please wait for additional answers. Good luck.
 
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antiglobal

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Ah, right. Motherboard is REV 3.0, and yes BIOS version is F8. The newer BIOS versions only support new CPUs and similar, so I didn't think it is worth a risk. I have already updated the BIOS a few times. I even got the BIOS chips failed, but it was fixed under warranty (that was about 5+ years ago).

Yes, I have two different types of RAM. 2 sticks are Kinston HyperX Beast 2400 MHz 4 GB and 2 are Kingston HyperX Beast 2133 MHz 4 GB, but all 4 are running at 2133 MHz. They do have different timings, though. I had the 2400 MHz type originaly, but editing some videos takes a lot of RAM and I could not finish the edit because of that, so I decided to buy 8 GB more. I wanted to buy the same ones, but I could not find them (not at a normal price anyway), so I bought 2133 variants for 100$ used. And I barely managed to find that. That was in March this year.

But I though I have ruled out the RAM as a culprit, because I have run Windows and a third party RAM tests, and there where no problems reported. I have aslo try setting the same timings in BIOS (to match the worse ones set, meaning that if one pair of sticks had one of the timings set at 24 and other at 27, I would set both pairs to 27, and so on). But that way, the system would barely boot, and would crash a few seconds after. So I though that XMP profiles know what they are doing and setting the timings differently, so I just left it as it is, because that way, the system worked.

BUT, if I remember correctly, now (after you mentioned RAM). I think that I was actually still running Windows 7 then. And the system would not boot a a few days after installing new RAM. I immediately thought that the RAM is faulty, but it would not start even with only my RAM installed, or even just one stick, so I ruled that out. And then installed Windows10.

Well, now we know the problem is in fact RAM after all. :/

Now I need to find the solution for it.
Thank you for help!
 

gardenman

Splendid
Moderator
Maybe it's the RAM, maybe not. Wait for more replies from others who will know more about it than myself. You could test the system with just a matching pair of RAM modules.

I also recommend holding off on that BIOS update. I should have mentioned to wait on that.

Wait for more replies later today.
 
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antiglobal

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Yeah, I will try with just 2 sticks of the same type RAM tomorrow, when I get back from work.

BTW, I also suspected tht the game crashes are due to integrated graphics and the fact that the iGPU can only use 2 GB of (for GPU) slow RAM. I though that maybe graphics RAM gets full and the game crashes,because that was suggested on Steam GTA V forum. Plus I wanted to pay with better graphics, so I have ordered a used Biostar RX560 4 GB GDDR5 mining edition graphics card for 64$, and when it arrives I will try the system with it too. But that would be in couple of weeks.
 

Colif

Win 11 Master
Moderator
Attempted write to read only memory is a driver problem, can also be caused by an old bios.. or ram. So running with 2 might answer it How long had you been using all 4 together anyway?

scary every search i find that leads to toms has me and Gardenman in it

now the fun part is all the drivers on motherboard website are older than what you have installed. So figuring out which one is to blame is fun thing
Given most of them are Kaspersky that reduces the number a little.
Oldest driver is for your sound from Realtek
Did VPN come with kaspersky?
 

antiglobal

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All 4 stick I have been using since March this year, before I have installed Windows 10 (because Windows 7 would no longer boot at all).

BTW, when I am editing some long 1080p videos (for my dash cam youtube channel), sometimes it takes a few hours with all 4 cores at almost 100% load. And RAM gets filled up as it goes. During that, I never get crashes and blue screens. But sometimes, when WIndows has just booted, I get a blue screen, or does not even boot and get a blue screen. Or Windows just "sitting" on the desktop, and I get blue screen. But I ran a RAM test that fills the RAM up to 100% for hour or so, and no blue screens. During gaming, sometimes blue screen. Or much more often, game crashes.

Regarding BIOS, mine is F8. And F9 only has "Update APU AGESA code for Carrizo support", while my APU is Kaveri, so I did not think it would matter. F10 is beta, so I was not even considering it.

I hade some problems with World of Tanks crashing, which where solved by installing new Realtek sound drivers (from a Realtek website, a few months ago). But less then a month later, crashes started again.

I actually had no idea that Kasperski was updating some of my drivers? o_O That could be a possible issue.

I don't know about VPN, I do not have it or use it. Probably Kaspersky is using it for some of its features (safe money, or whatever).

I am at work at the moment, but when I get home I will first try to find and update the proper drivers for everything, and if it does not help, I will try removing RAM stick and see if it works with just 2 of the same type.
 

Colif

Win 11 Master
Moderator
I actually had no idea that Kasperski was updating some of my drivers?

I didn't say it was, all i meant was 80% of the drivers on install are from Kaspersky so it made it easier to see the others.

One test you might try is a clean boot as it will stop kaspersky (maybe) from loading and reduce number of drivers reported in crashes.
Make sure to read instructions and make sure NOT to disable any microsoft services or windows won't load right - https://support.microsoft.com/en-au/help/929135/how-to-perform-a-clean-boot-in-windows
 

antiglobal

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I have tried it with 1 and 2 sticks of same type RAM, and well I have found out what I already had found out when I had bought the additional RAM, but forgot. 4 sticks would only work if the frequency is set to 1866 MHz.

So, probably when it was set to 1866 MHz it worked fine, but at some point I have reset the BIOS settings and then only adjusted those settings that I had remembered to do. Of course, I forgot the RAM frequency thing, and just set it to 2133 MHz (XMP profile).

The fact that I would use integrated GPU, made me to choose fast RAM (6 years ago).
So, I bought a 2400 MHz RAM (2x4 GB matched). But it would never run at 2400 MHz, no matter what I would do. But it would run fine on 2133 MHz.
Then this year I bought a used 2133 MHz RAM, only to find out that it would not work at 2133 MHz (at least not together with my existing RAM), and would only work together at 1866 MHz.

I don't know if it is the memory controller in my APU, or the North Bridge on my motherboard, or simply RAM itself (meaning, it is a marketing scam), but I know that is sucks, especially for someone who uses only integrated GPU. But a discrete card is on its way, so it does not matter any more.

I did not have much time to test it, but I have set it to 1866 MHz (all 4 stick installed) and it seemed to work fine. I will test it in the next few days, and see if that is it.
 
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