Windows 10 Lags upon first boot, and is fine after restart.

Submersed24

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When I boot up windows 10, the entire os lags at around 3 fps. This problem only happened since I transfered my os from windows 7 to windows 10. On windows 7, the problem did not occur. I am assuming this is a driver problem, since I even tried clean installing windows onto my computer. The lag is there only if I boot up from the power being off or asleep, and then I must restart the computer to resolve the lag. I know that my drivers are up to date, except my ssd. The ssd however, has not had complaints from people about this happening and people say it works fine.
My specs are:
SSD/Secondary Drive - Samsung 850 EVO 1 TB
Main Memory: 8 gb DDR3 Ripjaws
GPU: GTX 670 EVGA edition
CPU: i7 2700k
PSU: Kingston(A sucky brand Iv heard but I doubt the problem relates to it.)

Any help would be great, thanks.
 
Solution
G
HOORAY I think I have resolved my issue which hopefully will resolve others.

I was racking my brains and realised that I shutdown my PC via 'Power' and 'Shutdown' which actually is the hybrid hibernation shutdown mode that Windows/Microsoft seems to now like. I then realised that this could be why the restart and the boot from cold are creating different results.

Due to this I turned off the 'fast boot' option and 'touch wood' it appears to have resolved the issue.

I would suggest trying this and it has worked for me, good luck.
First of all, don't ever doubt that ANY "sucky" power supply isn't the problem, because nine times out of ten, it is. Is yours, maybe, maybe not, but don't assume. A low quality or faulty power supply can cause ANY known issue on ANY system, since EVERYTHING relies on the power supply.

Likely though, if it displayed no issues with Win7, the problem is a driver issue as you suspect or could be related to hybrid sleep which should be disabled. I would recommend manually going to the motherboard product page, since you don't indicate what the motherboard model is, and install every listed driver for Windows 10 on that driver page.

Then I'd do a clean install of the GPU card drivers as follows.

http://www.howtogeek.com/197647/how-to-dual-boot-windows-10-with-windows-7-or-8/
 

Submersed24

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Sorry, I forgot to mention the motherboard. It is an Asrock Z75 Pro3 and the drivers recently came out for them. I installed all of them, but no success.
 

Submersed24

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I just tried this and I can confirm that the graphics card is not the issue.
 
That would not tell you that the GPU card isn't to blame, only that it's not a driver issue. GPU card could still be the problem, especially since it's several generations old. I'm betting on the power supply, or the GPU card. It COULD be a motherboard issue, but that's far less likely. I'd replace the power supply with a higher quality tier 1 or tier 2 model as listed here:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html


If you have another GPU card you can use or borrow, that would help to eliminate the card as the culprit.
 

Submersed24

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I cant honestly see it being anything other than the motherboard or possibly the ssd, because I had no problems at all on Windows 7. I even went back and forth between 7 and 10. How would a PSU problem occur?
 
Power supply failures are the #1 issue on ALL computer systems. 90% of power supplies are crap. The other 10% fail before the warranty expires about 30% of the time. Age, quality of the unit and using a unit that does not TRULY meet the capacity requirements, thus stressing the unit beyond what it was designed to handle, are the main reasons. Factor in the fact that all mass produced electronics suffer from some percentage of simply having a manufacturing defect, and the additional possibility of surges, brown outs or poor electrical grids as well as the use of incompatible UPS unit waveform outputs and cheap power strips, and that's a LOT of different ways the power supply can be at fault.

GPU cards are also known to spike out of specifications at times, which further creates potential for damage to the power supply.

The question should never be "how would a PSU problem occur", but instead should be "how do I eliminate the PSU as possibly being the problem". In most cases, "get a quality unit" is the correct answer. While motherboard failures do occur, especially on aging units, they are nowhere near as common as power supply failures except when also paired with a faulty power supply that has in fact been the cause of the failed motherboard. That is more common than it is uncommon.

Nobody ever had a problem with any device, until they did. "But it never gave any signs of failing". Sure it did. You're seeing it now. This does not necessarily mean your unit is at fault, but I would absolutely be looking FIRST at the power supply since it's a low quality unit. I'd also try changing out the SSD SATA cable and if that doesn't help, try connecting it to a different SATA header. You can also run Seatools for Windows on the drive to check drive health. Seatools works for all drives and offers specific tests not found in the Magician toolbox. Run the short DST and the Long generic.

Take a look at your motherboard with a flashlight for any bulging or leaking capacitors. But it's very hard to positively diagnose a motherboard as being faulty until you've pretty much eliminated everything else unless there is visual damage or one of the I/O circuits doesn't work. Failures to POST are also pretty good indicators, although there are many possibilities with no POST symptoms.

This may give us some information:

*How to post images in Tom's hardware forums



Run HWinfo and look at system voltages and other sensor readings.

Monitoring temperatures, core speeds, voltages, clock ratios and other reported sensor data can often help to pick out an issue right off the bat. HWinfo is a good way to get that data and in my experience tends to be more accurate than some of the other utilities available. CPU-Z, GPU-Z and Core Temp all have their uses but HWinfo tends to have it all laid out in a more convenient fashion so you can usually see what one sensor is reporting while looking at another instead of having to flip through various tabs that have specific groupings.

After installation, run the utility and when asked, choose "sensors only". The other window options have some use but in most cases everything you need will be located in the sensors window. If you're taking screenshots to post for troubleshooting, it will most likely require taking three screenshots and scrolling down the sensors window between screenshots in order to capture them all.

*Download HWinfo
 

Submersed24

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My bad, wrong format.
Specs:

2806y4l.jpg

1smp9i.jpg


After restart (working normally)
1zgstvl.png


Before restart (fresh boot, laggy)
1sfx2e.png

 
Post three more of the HWinfo screenshots with the system under a full CPU load by running small FFT on Prime 95 version 26.6. Let it run for 3-5 minutes before taking the screenshot and take the screenshot WHILE it is running. Same goes for Furmark below.


Prime95 v26.6: http://windows-downloads-center.blogspot.com/2011/04/prime95-266.html


And another set running Furmark: http://www.ozone3d.net/benchmarks/fur/


Your PSU voltage at idle looks fine, but under load may be a different story. Even if the voltage LOOKS ok when idle, if it does not maintain under load it could be experiencing issues the rest of the time as well that do not necessarily show up via sensors.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi submersed24 I just wanted to let you know that I have EXACTLY the same issue and haven't been able to find any solution either. Weirdly my PC ran W10 perfectly with no issues whatsoever until I tried to do a clean install of W10 via the 'reset' function and it failed and wiped my OS off my PC and I had to reinstall W7 then upgrade back to W10. It also was at the same time that W10 1511 was released.

Ever since then EVERY cold boot lags like hell and EVERY restart works perfectly. I have clean installed the OS numerous times, ran sfc /scannow, DISM sscans, checked logs, clean installs of GPU drivers, tried many different GPU drivers, and all to no avail.

I have now gone back to the conclusion that I will have to boot my PC and immediately restart it every time just to get it to work properly. I have been in contact with Microsoft and my Mobo manufacturer and neither can resolve the problem.

I really don't think it is a component issue or a PSU issue as the timing of the 'coincidence' is too coincidental and I would expect issues to be occurring on cold boot and restarts evenly but no issues are EVER present on a restart at all.

I'll post here if I ever find a solution and if you could do the same, my PC is old (Core 2 Duo 3.16Ghz, 4 GB RAM, 9600GT) but it ran W10 perfectly before these issues and runs it perfectly every time after a restart so there is definitely something amiss somewhere.

 
G

Guest

Guest
HOORAY I think I have resolved my issue which hopefully will resolve others.

I was racking my brains and realised that I shutdown my PC via 'Power' and 'Shutdown' which actually is the hybrid hibernation shutdown mode that Windows/Microsoft seems to now like. I then realised that this could be why the restart and the boot from cold are creating different results.

Due to this I turned off the 'fast boot' option and 'touch wood' it appears to have resolved the issue.

I would suggest trying this and it has worked for me, good luck.
 
Solution
G

Guest

Guest


Yeah I've re-read your post but I think (for me anyway) that advice got lost in the other advice given and 'hybrid sleep' for me (due to my basic knowledge) doesn't relate to 'shutdown' so I wasn't actually sure what that advice related to or meant.

Thanks for replying, hopefully it will help others now as since the 1511 update on W10 quite a lot changed for my system and not for the better.
 

Submersed24

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Thank you!! I gave up on this problem since I could not fix it and did not check this forum.. I am going to do this right now!!
 

Submersed24

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Yes!!!! I have had this problem since I got windows 10!! I never would have guessed that fast startup was the problem, and I am assuming it has to do with the fact I have an ssd. By the way, for anyone else with this problem, follow this tutorial - http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/4189-fast-startup-turn-off-windows-10-a.html
And then turn off the fast boot option.