[SOLVED] Windows 10 won't boot on new build

[lairlair]

Hi all!
Windows won't boot on a new build. I migrated my previous SSD with windows 10 64bits installed and once the build was completed it booted and ran smoothly for 10 minutes and then crashed with a blue screen. Since then it can't boot anything, regardless of whether I use a usb stick or what.
Here are my components (the blue ones are new)

AMD Ryzen 9 5900x
MSI b550 gaming edge WiFi
Crucial ballistix 32GB 3600Mhz cl16
Noctua NH-D15
BitFenix whisper M 650w 80+ gold
Fractal design define 7
PNY GTX 1660 Super

Storage:
WD BLACK SN850 NVMe M.2 PCIe 4.0
2.5" SSD Crucial MX 500 (with windows installed on it)
3.5" HDD Seagate Barracuda with my data on it

Error codes: 0xc0000001
0xc0000098
IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
randomly showing up...

What I've done so far: flashed the BIOS with the newest version, checked the diagnosis LEDs (mobo posts correctly), removed each ram stick to test if it's more stable, remove the m.2 drive, tried a live Linux usb and a windows recovery key... Nothing boots reliably although every component shows up in bios and every fan spins.

Any more ideas what to do? Any help would be very appreciated! Thanksss

 

[rgd1101]

if the m.2 is new. take the crucial and hdd out and try a fresh os install
xmp memory profile on?
other then the gpu anything else?

 

[lairlair]

Okay, I'll try that.
Xmp profile 2 is on, set to 3200Mhz memory clock, which is the automatic setting. I first tried to push profile one with 3600Mhz memory clock and 1800Mhz infinite factory clock but I thought this might be the issue so I switched to profile 2 with everything left to default.
No, components plugged into the mobo are just GPU, CPU, CPU cooler, system fans, the 2 ram sticks and the drives mentioned above.
Thank you for the help!

 

[TerryLaze]

if the m.2 is new. take the crucial and hdd out and try a fresh os install
xmp memory profile on?
other then the gpu anything else?

If the M2 isn't the default first boot device he will have the same problem, as soon as he reconnects the other drives the system will again not know where to boot from.

Okay, I'll try that.
Xmp profile 2 is on, set to 3200Mhz memory clock, which is the automatic setting. I first tried to push profile one with 3600Mhz memory clock and 1800Mhz infinite factory clock but I thought this might be the issue so I switched to profile 2 with everything left to default.
No, components plugged into the mobo are just GPU, CPU, CPU cooler, system fans, the 2 ram sticks and the drives mentioned above.
Thank you for the help!

You have 32Gb, I'm not updated on how well ryzen handles that much mem but the more ram you have the harder it is to run it at high speed and in the past at least there where issues, I would try running them lower than the 3200 default because it's so much ram.

 

[TerryLaze]

Error codes: 0xc0000001
0xc0000098
IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
randomly showing up...

These are corrupted system files/boot files errors ,so the BSOD could be connected to your ram failing and causing bad data to be written to the drive.

 

[lairlair]

Interesting! The 5900x is rated for 3200Mhz memory, and my ram kit for 3600Mhz... so I would never had thought this would be an issue. I'll downclock way lower and see if that helps. Thanks!

 

[lairlair]

Right, I tried to downclock the ram as low as possible (1600Mhz) and it didn't change anything. I tried to unplug my old drives to install a fresh windows on my m.2 drive and that didn't help either as the system wouldn't boot the install usb drive. Any other ideas?

 

[Teknoman2]

are the installation files on the usb drive new or old? newer systems can't run older installers of win10, you need a very recent installer version to get it to run

 

[lairlair]

Thank you for the reply. I downloaded this installer 2-3 months ago and installed Windows on another system then. Do you reckon it needs to be even newer?

 

[Teknoman2]

It's recent enough and should be fine but it won't hurt to try and get the installer again just in case
In the end it could be literally anything that causes it. Someone had a PC that didn't turn on and the problem was the mouse. The mouse worked fine with any other PC, his PC worked fine with any other mouse, but if that one mouse was connected to that one PC, the PC didn't turn on. The reason for a problem when it comes to PC hardware is sometimes so random that you just can't even imagine it possible that it was THAT

 

[lairlair]

It's recent enough and should be fine but it won't hurt to try and get the installer again just in case
In the end it could be literally anything that causes it. Someone had a PC that didn't turn on and the problem was the mouse. The mouse worked fine with any other PC, his PC worked fine with any other mouse, but if that one mouse was connected to that one PC, the PC didn't turn on. The reason for a problem when it comes to PC hardware is sometimes so random that you just can't even imagine it possible that it was THAT

Haha it's half funny half infuriating. But at this point I've tried to remove every component, swapped them around, checked every cable, ran memtest86 with no errors, and I can't pinpoint where the problem is coming from. My only guess is either the CPU is faulty, or the motherboard is and I don't know how to make sure

 

[Teknoman2]

Between the 2 i'd say the CPU is the more probable cause in this case. Since its new, you should take advantage of the warranty and have both replaced just in case

 

[lairlair]

Yeah I'm thinking of sending the CPU back, partly because rebuilding the motherboard is such a pain... I've ordered a buzzer to help troubleshooting. Let's see if it does help

 

[mamasan2000]

Unless your new build is identical to your old build, install Windows from scratch.

 

[lairlair]

Unless your new build is identical to your old build, install Windows from scratch.

As I said:

I tried to unplug my old drives to install a fresh windows on my m.2 drive and that didn't help either as the system wouldn't boot the install usb drive.

 

[mamasan2000]

As I said:

Are you trying to boot Compatibility mode or UEFI? Pick UEFI. 2nd, pick to boot the USB straight from the BIOS. If that doesn't work, maybe change USB port. The ones in the back of case (back of your your motherboard essentially) tend to work better than front USB.
If that fails, burn the ISO to USB again. With Windows media creation tool, Ventoy, whatever.

Does BIOS find the USB drive? Does PC not boot from USB even tho it is detected?
If you can't see the USB drive, stop right there. Fix that stuff first. Look around in BIOS.

 

[lairlair]

Thank you all for the replies, much appreciated!

Are you trying to boot Compatibility mode or UEFI?

I've mainly tried with UEFI but I enabled CMS once to see, and it didn't help.

Does BIOS find the USB drive?

Does PC not boot from USB even tho it is detected?

Yes that's the strange part. Every component I connect to my motherboard is correctly detected in bios. If I leave the bios and restart it attempts to boot, I even see the windows logo for a moment and then it gets stuck or gives me a blue screen.

 

[mamasan2000]

Thank you all for the replies, much appreciated!



I've mainly tried with UEFI but I enabled CMS once to see, and it didn't help.





Yes that's the strange part. Every component I connect to my motherboard is correctly detected in bios. If I leave the bios and restart it attempts to boot, I even see the windows logo for a moment and then it gets stuck or gives me a blue screen.

What does the bluescreen say? Does it list something like ntoskrnl? Memory-management? Irqnotlessorequal?

 

[lairlair]

Irqnotlessorequal?

Yeah I get this message a lot, but many others too KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED or 0xc000001 or 0xc0000098. And sometimes it's just stuck and there's no blue screen. I don't think it's a ram problem (at least not from the ram kit side of things) because I ran memtest86 for 5 hours without any errors and I also tried with a stick I know works and the problem was still there. So I'm guessing if my ram is ok, my PSU is okay, that I access the bios and everything shows up well (that would mean my mobo is okay?), It can only mean there's a fault on the CPU ...??

 

[mamasan2000]

Yeah I get this message a lot, but many others too KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED or 0xc000001 or 0xc0000098. And sometimes it's just stuck and there's no blue screen. I don't think it's a ram problem (at least not from the ram kit side of things) because I ran memtest86 for 5 hours without any errors and I also tried with a stick I know works and the problem was still there. So I'm guessing if my ram is ok, my PSU is okay, that I access the bios and everything shows up well (that would mean my mobo is okay?), It can only mean there's a fault on the CPU ...??

https://www.lifewire.com/fix-error-code-0xc0000001-4706504
Seems pretty serious. Have you tried another USB stick?

https://www.partitionwizard.com/disk-recovery/0xc0000098.html
Are you trying to boot from Crucial SSD? The Win install on it?

You shouldn't get xxxx98 error on USB stick. If you do, it's corrupt, broken or USB port is bad.

 

[mamasan2000]

Interesting! The 5900x is rated for 3200Mhz memory, and my ram kit for 3600Mhz... so I would never had thought this would be an issue. I'll downclock way lower and see if that helps. Thanks!

What it's rated at and what works are 2 different things. They are conservative, AMD.
Look at this: https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-7-3700x
Rated for 3200 Mhz RAM. But everyone knows that CPU runs best on 3600 Mhz RAM. And that is what most people run. As long as you run 2 sticks.
With 4 sticks, you put extra pressure on IMC etc. Might have to drop 200 Mhz on RAM to get it stable and/or increase voltage.

 

[lairlair]

You shouldn't get xxxx98 error on USB stick. If you do, it's corrupt, broken or USB port is bad.

I feel like a get the xxxxx1 with my crucial SSD (which I now installed in my old system again and it works fine). For the 98 one, I'm not sure. I think it showed up once only. IRQL is the one I get the most.

 

[mamasan2000]

I feel like a get the xxxxx1 with my crucial SSD (which I now installed in my old system again and it works fine). For the 98 one, I'm not sure. I think it showed up once only. IRQL is the one I get the most.

IRQ L or E usually points to memory errors. Just for eliminations sake. Take RAM out and push em back in all the way. You should hear a click or two. Slots 2 and 4. Could be A2 & B2, I don't remember exactly.

 

[lairlair]

IRQ L or E usually points to memory errors. Just for eliminations sake. Take RAM out and push em back in all the way. You should hear a click or two. Slots 2 and 4. Could be A2 & B2, I don't remember exactly.

I have tried that a few times, shuffling the sticks around but the problem persists. I even tried with a stick I know works and it didn't do much. So probably the memory controller is at fault