XSPC RayStorm with D5 pump any good?

[animositygamers]

I'm trying to get into custom water cooling loops. I'll most likely be doing PETG hard tubing for my first time (i'm a commercial electrician and bend pipe basically as a living so I'm not too intimidated with the bending process) but trying to find a kit or decent price on parts in CANADA is crazy...Basically I know I want a:
- D5 pump because its less noise and heat than a DDC pump
- Either a pump/res combo or separate but I want it too look aesthetically pleasing
- I just want to cool my cpu to start
- I want a 360 rad that will fit the top of my Fractal Design Define S case
- I don't care if the kit comes with fans or not I can always purchase later and I got spare around to tide me over
- I'd like a big tube res like 200-280mm if at all possible to show off in the case
- trying to stay in budget of $500 cad

Only kit I can find for a half decent price would be the XSPC RayStorm D5 Photon AX360 and i've seen really mixed reviews on this product but I don't really need a kit to do this either. My problem is when I start mixing parts then my price drives up to like $800 cad easy. Any suggestions here for parts or a kit that will stay in my budget and keep close to my guide lines? Also consider I am in Canada and ordering from most us sites is like $120 cad for me which is just freaking awesome >.>

 

[Lutfij]

The issue yo're bringing froward when talking of hard lining your tubes and asking for a kit is that the tubing and fittings bundled with a kit will go unused as the fittings for the hard tubing will be specifically designed to grip the tube fro the outside of the tube via the inside of the fitting as opposed to the reverse happening with barbs/compression fittings.

I see you pick up a single 360 rad from XSPC, the Raystorm Pro(yes it's the upgraded version of the Raystorm) the Photon D5 combo and add 12 or so fittings + tubing length's and you may come a little over 500CAD. You're Canadian so you should be familiar with Dazmode. Do you really need that long of a res? It may be moot in a case that requires other component allocation area though I don't know what you're populating it with...so erm okay.

 

[4Ryan6]

I'm trying to get into custom water cooling loops. I'll most likely be doing PETG hard tubing for my first time (i'm a commercial electrician and bend pipe basically as a living so I'm not too intimidated with the bending process) but trying to find a kit or decent price on parts in CANADA is crazy...Basically I know I want a:
- D5 pump because its less noise and heat than a DDC pump
- Either a pump/res combo or separate but I want it too look aesthetically pleasing
- I just want to cool my cpu to start
- I want a 360 rad that will fit the top of my Fractal Design Define S case
- I don't care if the kit comes with fans or not I can always purchase later and I got spare around to tide me over
- I'd like a big tube res like 200-280mm if at all possible to show off in the case
- trying to stay in budget of $500 cad

Only kit I can find for a half decent price would be the XSPC RayStorm D5 Photon AX360 and i've seen really mixed reviews on this product but I don't really need a kit to do this either. My problem is when I start mixing parts then my price drives up to like $800 cad easy. Any suggestions here for parts or a kit that will stay in my budget and keep close to my guide lines? Also consider I am in Canada and ordering from most us sites is like $120 cad for me which is just freaking awesome >.>

I see you are about to make the same mistake many new to water cooling do, and that is start out investing in a kit.

Kits are cheaper for a reason and there is always a weak link in going with a kit that usually ends up on the shelf after you've had to replace it later down the road.

Not doing it right the first time will cost you much more later on, so before writing a half page or more to help you.

Humor me please and answer this question, Why do you want to custom water cool?

 

[animositygamers]

I'm trying to get into custom water cooling loops. I'll most likely be doing PETG hard tubing for my first time (i'm a commercial electrician and bend pipe basically as a living so I'm not too intimidated with the bending process) but trying to find a kit or decent price on parts in CANADA is crazy...Basically I know I want a:
- D5 pump because its less noise and heat than a DDC pump
- Either a pump/res combo or separate but I want it too look aesthetically pleasing
- I just want to cool my cpu to start
- I want a 360 rad that will fit the top of my Fractal Design Define S case
- I don't care if the kit comes with fans or not I can always purchase later and I got spare around to tide me over
- I'd like a big tube res like 200-280mm if at all possible to show off in the case
- trying to stay in budget of $500 cad

Only kit I can find for a half decent price would be the XSPC RayStorm D5 Photon AX360 and i've seen really mixed reviews on this product but I don't really need a kit to do this either. My problem is when I start mixing parts then my price drives up to like $800 cad easy. Any suggestions here for parts or a kit that will stay in my budget and keep close to my guide lines? Also consider I am in Canada and ordering from most us sites is like $120 cad for me which is just freaking awesome >.>

I see you are about to make the same mistake many new to water cooling do, and that is start out investing in a kit.

Kits are cheaper for a reason and there is always a weak link in going with a kit that usually ends up on the shelf after you've had to replace it later down the road.

Not doing it right the first time will cost you much more later on, so before writing a half page or more to help you.

Humor me please and answer this question, Why do you want to custom water cool?

I've already come to terms with not buying a kit. They all come with 1 or 2 aspects that I don't like so i'm going to end up biting the bullet and buying my own stuff from scratch. To answer your question, I want to water cool for 4 main reasons...
-Noise reduction over my hypermaster evo
-Looks (I consider myself a hobbyist and want it to look nice)
-Performance (I OC my cpu, gpu and ram. I would overclock more but air cooling is keeping me from it)
-The challenge. I've never done it before, I feel air is keeping my oc's back, I want to learn water cooling.

 

[4Ryan6]

I've already come to terms with not buying a kit. They all come with 1 or 2 aspects that I don't like so i'm going to end up biting the bullet and buying my own stuff from scratch. To answer your question, I want to water cool for 4 main reasons...
-Noise reduction over my hypermaster evo
-Looks (I consider myself a hobbyist and want it to look nice)
-Performance (I OC my cpu, gpu and ram. I would overclock more but air cooling is keeping me from it)
-The challenge. I've never done it before, I feel air is keeping my oc's back, I want to learn water cooling.

I am an overclocker as well and air is holding you back so you do not want to buy water cooling components that will hold you back as well, not all water cooling components are the same as covering a general statement there can be as much as a 10c difference between the older generation water blocks and the blocks available today.

It's been a while since I've seen any new updated CPU water block tests to discount what I'm sharing with you here, the best of the best is the EK Supremacy EVO CPU water block.

I run that block myself so I know how well it performs I was literally shocked to discover under the exact same cooling test with the only changes being swapping out the block, it's cooling performance bested my XSPC Raystorm by a full 5c, now 5c matters when it comes to overclocking.

Your D5 pump choice is excellent I run those as well but you will need a G1/4 threaded version so you can use the hard compression fittings to match the hard tubing you want to run, don't get mixed up there are two types of compression fittings, one type for soft vinyl, the other type for hard tubing, but they are all G1/4 threaded to fit, water blocks, radiators, reservoirs etc.

IMO Bits Power makes the best quality cylinder reservoirs and going independent pump reservoir may be the only way you can get exactly the size cylinder you're after, most of the pump/cylinder reservoirs are either cylinder size limited or completely out of stock.

Note: The water block suggestions are Intel versions if you are running AMD you need to search for the same water block with AMD mounting.

Secondly I suggest going with an all copper loop, that way you can use 100%pure steam distilled water and copper sulfate, 1 drop per liter, to control critters.

I'm sure you have questions, I hope I've helped you some.

 

[animositygamers]

I've already come to terms with not buying a kit. They all come with 1 or 2 aspects that I don't like so i'm going to end up biting the bullet and buying my own stuff from scratch. To answer your question, I want to water cool for 4 main reasons...
-Noise reduction over my hypermaster evo
-Looks (I consider myself a hobbyist and want it to look nice)
-Performance (I OC my cpu, gpu and ram. I would overclock more but air cooling is keeping me from it)
-The challenge. I've never done it before, I feel air is keeping my oc's back, I want to learn water cooling.

I am an overclocker as well and air is holding you back so you do not want to buy water cooling components that will hold you back as well, not all water cooling components are the same as covering a general statement there can be as much as a 10c difference between the older generation water blocks and the blocks available today.

It's been a while since I've seen any new updated CPU water block tests to discount what I'm sharing with you here, the best of the best is the EK Supremacy EVO CPU water block.

I run that block myself so I know how well it performs I was literally shocked to discover under the exact same cooling test with the only changes being swapping out the block, it's cooling performance bested my XSPC Raystorm by a full 5c, now 5c matters when it comes to overclocking.

Your D5 pump choice is excellent I run those as well but you will need a G1/4 threaded version so you can use the hard compression fittings to match the hard tubing you want to run, don't get mixed up there are two types of compression fittings, one type for soft vinyl, the other type for hard tubing, but they are all G1/4 threaded to fit, water blocks, radiators, reservoirs etc.

IMO Bits Power makes the best quality cylinder reservoirs and going independent pump reservoir may be the only way you can get exactly the size cylinder you're after, most of the pump/cylinder reservoirs are either cylinder size limited or completely out of stock.

Note: The water block suggestions are Intel versions if you are running AMD you need to search for the same water block with AMD mounting.

Secondly I suggest going with an all copper loop, that way you can use 100%pure steam distilled water and copper sulfate, 1 drop per liter, to control critters.

I'm sure you have questions, I hope I've helped you some.

Thanks for the info. At this point i'm waiting on GPU pascal announcements before buying anything because it's so close. Im glad to hear about the EK water block as so far my favorite brand has been EK because of reviews mostly but I hate how their reservoirs are so small so I may have to take your idea and opt for a separated reservoir/D5 pump and hard tube between them.

Basically this is what i'm thinking about...
Radiator
Pump
Reservoir
Pump Head (might get later, unsure. The plain jane pump adapter that comes with the pump isnt very aesthetically pleasing)
EK Fittings, like these (just an example) mostly because it's cheaper combo price with the CPU block
CPU Block
Some type of PETG tubing but idk what brand yet. I want clear, any idea's?
Distilled water with some treatment to it. Silver coil? idk what I should be adding to the water yet. I just know with water touching metals i need something in there or it will re-ionize itself.

That list look decent? It's probably going to be more than I wanted to pay for all this when I add in the fittings and figure out how to make a draining soft tube attachment but I believe having a strong foundation to build upon is paramount in anything in life. Aka, Anything worth doing, is worth doing right.

Edit: Fixed a link

 

[4Ryan6]

Some type of PETG tubing but idk what brand yet. I want clear, any idea's?
Distilled water with some treatment to it. Silver coil? idk what I should be adding to the water yet. I just know with water touching metals i need something in there or it will re-ionize itself.

That list look decent? It's probably going to be more than I wanted to pay for all this when I add in the fittings and figure out how to make a draining soft tube attachment but I believe having a strong foundation to build upon is paramount in anything in life. Aka, Anything worth doing, is worth doing right.

You'll need to research the PETG tubing as some of what was originally released was bad about developing hairline cracks, they've improved the quality now but some of the old stuff may still be around, and you do not want to go to all that trouble and end up with leaks from hairline cracks, so research into that, I am not running hard tubing myself so my knowledge is limited there.

Regarding the Colloidal Silver Coil, if you run a copper loop you only need 100% pure steam distilled water and PT-Nuke (Copper Sulfate), you do not need a Kill Coil.

When it comes to coolant the best thermal conduction is steam distilled water, the more additives you are forced to add to the coolant to cover things like running mixed metals in the loop or running Nickel Plated water blocks requiring special coolants the less the thermal conduction is.

Of course you have to take into consideration aesthetics and why you are desiring to run clear hard tubing are you also planning on running a colored coolant in the system, and if that is your plans it seriously changes things and will affect the end result of thermal conduction, in most cases IMO in that situation it is better to run colored tubing so you can run the steam distilled water and biocide.

Biocide is very concentrated and powerful and only takes a small amount to do the job literally having zero affect on thermal conductivity of the water, that's why I run it myself, as you do not have to add anything else at all, I water cool for overclock performance and I do not intend compromising that capability on my coolant, when I have specifically bought the best of the best in water cooling hardware.

Your list looks pretty good to me as long as that Nickel plating on the fitting is outside and not making inside contact with the coolant, because if you have nickel contact with the coolant you'll be forced to run a multi-metal protective coolant.

It is not recommended to run PT-Nuke with any nickel in the loop.

You have some decisions to make so I'm just trying to advise you in whatever direction you decide to go in, it's more of a learned the hard way in some instances, like coolant end performance, and matter of opinion on other issues, when it comes to looks and aesthetics.

 

[animositygamers]

Some type of PETG tubing but idk what brand yet. I want clear, any idea's?
Distilled water with some treatment to it. Silver coil? idk what I should be adding to the water yet. I just know with water touching metals i need something in there or it will re-ionize itself.

That list look decent? It's probably going to be more than I wanted to pay for all this when I add in the fittings and figure out how to make a draining soft tube attachment but I believe having a strong foundation to build upon is paramount in anything in life. Aka, Anything worth doing, is worth doing right.

You'll need to research the PETG tubing as some of what was originally released was bad about developing hairline cracks, they've improved the quality now but some of the old stuff may still be around, and you do not want to go to all that trouble and end up with leaks from hairline cracks, so research into that, I am not running hard tubing myself so my knowledge is limited there.

Regarding the Colloidal Silver Coil, if you run a copper loop you only need 100% pure steam distilled water and PT-Nuke (Copper Sulfate), you do not need a Kill Coil.

When it comes to coolant the best thermal conduction is steam distilled water, the more additives you are forced to add to the coolant to cover things like running mixed metals in the loop or running Nickel Plated water blocks requiring special coolants the less the thermal conduction is.

Of course you have to take into consideration aesthetics and why you are desiring to run clear hard tubing are you also planning on running a colored coolant in the system, and if that is your plans it seriously changes things and will affect the end result of thermal conduction, in most cases IMO in that situation it is better to run colored tubing so you can run the steam distilled water and biocide.

Biocide is very concentrated and powerful and only takes a small amount to do the job literally having zero affect on thermal conductivity of the water, that's why I run it myself, as you do not have to add anything else at all, I water cool for overclock performance and I do not intend compromising that capability on my coolant, when I have specifically bought the best of the best in water cooling hardware.

Your list looks pretty good to me as long as that Nickel plating on the fitting is outside and not making inside contact with the coolant, because if you have nickel contact with the coolant you'll be forced to run a multi-metal protective coolant.

It is not recommended to run PT-Nuke with any nickel in the loop.

You have some decisions to make so I'm just trying to advise you in whatever direction you decide to go in, it's more of a learned the hard way in some instances, like coolant end performance, and matter of opinion on other issues, when it comes to looks and aesthetics.

Great answer. Ill research the PETG tubing to make sure i get quality stuff and for coolant i'll take your advice and run the steam distilled water. Starting off I don't like I want to run colored coolant at all but if I do end up wanting something colored I will probably buy mayhem color dye than you add to distilled water and do a very light coloring (think close to Gatorade G2 coloring, colored but still clear), so maybe 1-2 drops tops with a LED strip behind my reservoir. I'll also add the biocide and make sure I have no nickel on the inside of my connectors. I'm a bit of a minimalist so I won't be running some pastel fluid in my system for looks when it downgrades my performance.

I'd also like the thank you for all the help. I've wrote down alot of your suggestions and when I go shopping for the pieces this will make the experience alot more smooth. One other question though, I'd like a draining port, would I just add a T fitting with a valve barb fitting attached with soft tubing to drain from? also would this be detachable in any way (because it's going to look horrible) or will I have to try to hide it in some way?

 

[4Ryan6]

One other question though, I'd like a draining port, would I just add a T fitting with a valve barb fitting attached with soft tubing to drain from? also would this be detachable in any way (because it's going to look horrible) or will I have to try to hide it in some way?

This is just my opinion as I have always run soft vinyl tubing and never ever used a drain port, I have just always used a razor blade and cut the tubing at a convenient low point of the loop and used a capture basin to collect the coolant.

If I was going to do what you are and run hard tubing you will absolutely have to have some way to safely drain the coolant, but if I went to all the trouble to run the hard tubing I would not compromise the aesthetics with some ugly dangling drain port.

Below is for idea example only:

What I would do is install a T in the line the same color as the fittings I chose, each point of the T accepts G1/4 male threaded fittings, then out the bottom of the T run a Rotary 90 that also accepts the same fittings, then run the same hard tubing to a bulkhead quick disconnect.

Note: Rotary 90s are an excellent way to adjust a tubing run so you can line the run up to a perfect case exit point, sometimes even a combination of them can give you exactly what you need, to make your tubing line up.

That way you keep the ugly outside of the case, run a simple barb fitting and vinyl tubing to the outside disconnect, and leave it disconnected until you need to use it.