Question Zotac 3060ti Twin Edge OC, issues with temps, clocks and OC Scanner

Grijander

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Jan 25, 2016
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I bought recently a Zotac 3060ti. Overall I'm satisfied with gaming performance, but... the card is pretty noisy, it gets really hot and it keeps downclocking itself to 1890-1905mhz while gaming.

I have tried undervolting it but apparently I got a bad chip. As soon as I try a "bold" undervolt, like 1920MHz at 900mv, I get crash to desktop as soon as the game loads (currently I'm testing with Cyberpunk 2077). I have to raise the power to 950mv in order to avoid crashes. 1920Mhz at 950mv sounds like a pretty bad undervolt to me. I can lower the mv to 900, but then I have to set the clock speed to 1835-1850 in order to avoid crashes. Again, pretty bad undervolt, since probably I could lose 4-5 fps if I set the clock to 1835mhz. At default settings, without touching anything in MSI Afterburner, theoretically the card should reach a maximum of 1995mhz. My gpu reaches that, but that clock speed slows down to 1950 shortly after the game loads and the temp raises, and as soon as the temp reaches 75-80 degrees, the clock speed decreases and hovers between 1850 and 1920.

I tried to do a OC Scanner. 4-5 minutes after clicking "test", I got this message: "test completed, confidence level is 0". I did the test at default settings. As soon as I received this message, I knew something was wrong, since I shouldn't get that message at stock settings, I should have received like a 80-90% confidence level. The problem is I'm not pretty sure what I should target. My PSU is an Enermax RevoBron 600W 80 Plus Bronze. Yeah, I know, it's not the best PSU, but it should be enough. My CPU is an i5 8600k slightly oced to 4.4Ghz, and I have 16GB of RAM at 3000MHz. I use Enermax Liqmax II 120S as CPU cooling with the radiator + fan mounted on the back, exhausting. I have 2 120mm fans on the front part, as intake (top fan is a Noctua). Soon I will get another Noctua to mount it at the top-back part of the case to exhaust, to create a balanced airflow.

I'm tinkering with Afterburner but I'm running short of ideas, honestly. I don't know if this is a PSU issue, a temperature issue, or simply I got a bad chip. The thing I got me worried was that 0% confidence level when I did the OC Scanner. It's not normal. Any idea or suggestion would be much appreciated.
 

AJNameS

Prominent
Apr 5, 2020
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Maybe it's not just rumors, maybe this brand is a bit of trashy. Or maybe not.
1890-1905mhz
What? The biggest factory Zotac Boost Clock is 1725 MHz, and if you are manually overclocking, just stop it and keep it with the factory defaults, can't you? My OC'ing knowledge is pretty limited, but despite of this I am starting to wonder wth is going on there. What is this Zotac version? PGF OC, Twin Edge or?
 
Dec 18, 2020
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I bought recently a Zotac 3060ti. Overall I'm satisfied with gaming performance, but... the card is pretty noisy, it gets really hot and it keeps downclocking itself to 1890-1905mhz while gaming.

I have tried undervolting it but apparently I got a bad chip. As soon as I try a "bold" undervolt, like 1920MHz at 900mv, I get crash to desktop as soon as the game loads (currently I'm testing with Cyberpunk 2077). I have to raise the power to 950mv in order to avoid crashes. 1920Mhz at 950mv sounds like a pretty bad undervolt to me. I can lower the mv to 900, but then I have to set the clock speed to 1835-1850 in order to avoid crashes. Again, pretty bad undervolt, since probably I could lose 4-5 fps if I set the clock to 1835mhz. At default settings, without touching anything in MSI Afterburner, theoretically the card should reach a maximum of 1995mhz. My gpu reaches that, but that clock speed slows down to 1950 shortly after the game loads and the temp raises, and as soon as the temp reaches 75-80 degrees, the clock speed decreases and hovers between 1850 and 1920.

I tried to do a OC Scanner. 4-5 minutes after clicking "test", I got this message: "test completed, confidence level is 0". I did the test at default settings. As soon as I received this message, I knew something was wrong, since I shouldn't get that message at stock settings, I should have received like a 80-90% confidence level. The problem is I'm not pretty sure what I should target. My PSU is an Enermax RevoBron 600W 80 Plus Bronze. Yeah, I know, it's not the best PSU, but it should be enough. My CPU is an i5 8600k slightly oced to 4.4Ghz, and I have 16GB of RAM at 3000MHz. I use Enermax Liqmax II 120S as CPU cooling with the radiator + fan mounted on the back, exhausting. I have 2 120mm fans on the front part, as intake (top fan is a Noctua). Soon I will get another Noctua to mount it at the top-back part of the case to exhaust, to create a balanced airflow.

I'm tinkering with Afterburner but I'm running short of ideas, honestly. I don't know if this is a PSU issue, a temperature issue, or simply I got a bad chip. The thing I got me worried was that 0% confidence level when I did the OC Scanner. It's not normal. Any idea or suggestion would be much appreciated.
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A Ti card is huge amount if CUDA cores that balance out a certain n amount of VRAM that they can use to throttle or cool. The basic idea is the absence of a second, powered component to actively make frequencies and energies rise to the point of afterwards having to be removed. Only the core needed power. Excesses are used for cooling and VRAM is used by the CUDA cores to operate a higher frequencies and generate heat.

OC is a term for the opposite. That for raising the clocks,of the cores, a second power component was added, and once int'erachting with the core, calculated in the PCB an organised into calcuation, heat and condensation.

The lack of a maximal power component, on which an amount of generated heat would mix with rotating fans and so get rid of all the energy they put in.

The hilarious thing now being that adding power quite the easy way is to create fast and cheap GPUs hehe.
 

Grijander

Reputable
Jan 25, 2016
20
0
4,520
1
Maybe it's not just rumors, maybe this brand is a bit of trashy. Or maybe not.

What? The biggest factory Zotac Boost Clock is 1725 MHz, and if you are manually overclocking, just stop it and keep it with the factory defaults, can't you? My OC'ing knowledge is pretty limited, but despite of this I am starting to wonder wth is going on there. What is this Zotac version? PGF OC, Twin Edge or?
As far as I know, Zotac is a reliable brand. But maybe they have screwed it up a bit with the RTX 30XX series, I don't know.

1725MHz isn't the "real" Zotac boost. When you install the GPU and open Afterburner you can see the card boosts at 1995MHz. That 1750MHz boost clock is the "conservative" boost provided by the manufacturer, that is, the minimum guaranteed boost you will get. Every single 3060ti you can find in the market (if you are lucky enough to find one) will boost way higher than 1750MHz. And it's the Twin Edge OC version.
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A Ti card is huge amount if CUDA cores that balance out a certain n amount of VRAM that they can use to throttle or cool. The basic idea is the absence of a second, powered component to actively make frequencies and energies rise to the point of afterwards having to be removed. Only the core needed power. Excesses are used for cooling and VRAM is used by the CUDA cores to operate a higher frequencies and generate heat.

OC is a term for the opposite. That for raising the clocks,of the cores, a second power component was added, and once int'erachting with the core, calculated in the PCB an organised into calcuation, heat and condensation.

The lack of a maximal power component, on which an amount of generated heat would mix with rotating fans and so get rid of all the energy they put in.

The hilarious thing now being that adding power quite the easy way is to create fast and cheap GPUs hehe.
I appreciate the time you spend posting here, but I think I don't understand you very well.
 
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