Sheikh Tashdeed Ahmed

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Hello, I use the headphone EKSA E900 PRO.

I hear static sound whenever anything is playing. Even if it is a windows operating system prompt sound, with that, I hear a static sound with it.

If I unplug the usb C cable on the headphone and re-plug it in, then, for a few minutes, the static sound is gone. Then after a few minutes, it comes back.

This issue exists apparently in both 2.0 and 7.1 surround sound modes.

For the first 2 months of the headphone usage on the same system and other parts, there was no issue. All, everything same. It has been happening more frequently in the last 2 weeks :( Been only using this for 2.5 months :(

Could someone advice why this is the case?
 
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Sheikh Tashdeed Ahmed

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Does this happen when the headphone is connected to any other device?

Also, does different headphones do this when attached to your system?

At first glance, this sounds like a possible grounding issue.
Hi, I have only noticed this when the headphone is connected to my PC. I have heard from some other users on other forum posts on other websites that when they switched to the 3.5mm jack for sound, on their other brands' headphones, the issue was gone. I can do that too but I need the 7.1 surround sound effect through my USB 2.0 cable-connector and 3.5mm jack does not help with that.

I don't have any other functional headphone to try it with. However, I'll add one more detail that I forgot to mention earlier. And I will edit this in the post as well. For the first 2 months of the headphone usage on the same system and other parts, there was no issue. All, everything same. It has been happening more frequently in the last 2 weeks :( Been only using this for 2.5 months :(

My main socket where the PC is connected via a UPS, there is grounding and if I touch my PSU grill, there is no shock. There are a few ports on my UPS and I have noticed that on one of the 3 pin ports on my UPS (output), there is probably no grounding, so if I turn my PC through that, then the PSU grill gives shock, so does my Keyboard USB-C connector when I touch it. But the other 2 UPS ports have grounding. So I used one of them and there is no shock. I really think the grounding is fine. This is what is puzzling me...
 

Sheikh Tashdeed Ahmed

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Hi, I have only noticed this when the headphone is connected to my PC. I have heard from some other users on other forum posts on other websites that when they switched to the 3.5mm jack for sound, on their other brands' headphones, the issue was gone. I can do that too but I need the 7.1 surround sound effect through my USB 2.0 cable-connector and 3.5mm jack does not help with that.

I don't have any other functional headphone to try it with. However, I'll add one more detail that I forgot to mention earlier. And I will edit this in the post as well. For the first 2 months of the headphone usage on the same system and other parts, there was no issue. All, everything same. It has been happening more frequently in the last 2 weeks :( Been only using this for 2.5 months :(

My main socket where the PC is connected via a UPS, there is grounding and if I touch my PSU grill, there is no shock. There are a few ports on my UPS and I have noticed that on one of the 3 pin ports on my UPS (output), there is probably no grounding, so if I turn my PC through that, then the PSU grill gives shock, so does my Keyboard USB-C connector when I touch it. But the other 2 UPS ports have grounding. So I used one of them and there is no shock. I really think the grounding is fine. This is what is puzzling me...
to make things worse, the shop I bought it from are main distributors of this brand EKSA but they deny to take responsibility and keep saying that there must be something wrong with my system. They say that there has been plenty of similar issues with their other customers and when they check in their shop, they find no issues... :| It's like they will deny taking responsibility no matter what... Contacting EKSA is no help, their customer service is almost non existent. I have used A4Tech BLoody G437 for over 3.5 years in the past and there have never been such an issue of sound is playing but with static noise with the sound.
 

Sheikh Tashdeed Ahmed

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Seems we need to isolate the issue. When you connect your headphones, are you using a front panel or rear panel port?

The grounding issue may be with the port itself. When connecting, is the USB cable tightly attached, or can it wiggle about some?
Not using any 3.5mm audio port. USBs is at the rear panel. Tightly attached. The same issue showed when I put it on a little loose USB port, also on a single tight usb port in the past. Right now, on the tighter usb port, no wiggle.

The motherboard is MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC (if relevant).
 

Sheikh Tashdeed Ahmed

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The question about the mic was to attempt to isolate the issue.
I understand now, but from the very beginning, it was isolated. I'd have tried a different USB-C cable to connect the PC USB port to the headphone USB-C port, but alas, no other USB C cable that I have available fits into the USB C port on the headphone. I always thought all USB C are physically made equal aside the transfer rate and charging ability. This was strange. Buying this headphone ultimately felt like a trap and gave me anxiety.
 

COLGeek

Cybernaut
Moderator
When you can, visually inspect your rear panel ports. Make sure nothing is sticking into them, especially any of the little grounding fingers used with I/O panels.

I am still baffled by your UPS behavior previously mentioned. Try removing the UPS from the equation altogether and see if that makes any difference.

The other thing to try is to replace the USB cable you are using with your headset.
 

COLGeek

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I understand now, but from the very beginning, it was isolated. I'd have tried a different USB-C cable to connect the PC USB port to the headphone USB-C port, but alas, no other USB C cable that I have available fits into the USB C port on the headphone. I always thought all USB C are physically made equal aside the transfer rate and charging ability. This was strange. Buying this headphone ultimately felt like a trap and gave me anxiety.
You have mentioned USB-C, but also USB 2.0. Which are you actually using?

LB0292-02-Copy.png
 

Sheikh Tashdeed Ahmed

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You have mentioned USB-C, but also USB 2.0. Which are you actually using?

LB0292-02-Copy.png
The headphone cable that connects to the PC is a USB (type-A) 2.0 male to USB (type) C male. The USB 2.0 male connects to one of the USB ports on the PC. The USB C male connects to the headphone's USB C female port. I tried to use another USB cable but none of them even fit into the USB C female of the headphone :| It won't go in...
 

Sheikh Tashdeed Ahmed

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Do you have a link for the exact model of your headset?

This notion of adapter cables is likely impacting your performance.

The headsets I saw (based on the make/model you said you had) all had USB A connectors.
Yes, here it is.
Type A to Type C cable. I can't use another cable. It won't fit :| I tried a few mobile phone data type-C charger cables, but it does not go into the headphone female type-c port.

https://www.eksa.net/products/eksa-...d-sound-gaming-headset?variant=37345507934372
 

Sheikh Tashdeed Ahmed

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I see what you are saying now. That appears to be a proprietary cable.

That cable and the port it is using could be the issue.

Trying contacting them and ask for a replacement cable.
I've heard from other users too that the cable quality is bad. Now it seems I am part of that opinion too. I'd replace the cable in a heartbeat with sth better but nothing else fits. A replacement cable may just go bad in another 2 months :|
 
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Sheikh Tashdeed Ahmed

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Do you have the option to exchange the entire headset?
I typed a comment but it was deleted, so many words were in that comment. I feel sad right now that I have to re-type a summary of it.

Here goes:

Unfortunately, no. I can't exchange the entire headset. The shop from where I bought it mentioned to me that they have many similar complaints which are not found to be true when the headsets are used in their shop. Maybe this is their way of avoiding responsibility after selling poor quality headphones for their higher gains and then dumping the problem on the customers saying that, "the problem is not the headset, it's your PC or maybe your grounding"?

Sure, not all the samples will be bad but for those who get the bad units, "well, we won't care about them". The warranty is not even a replacement warranty. It's a repair warranty. Only if they find an issue or in other words, if you can on-spot prove the fault to them. The worrying trend is that this retail brand (not talking about EKSA; rather, the retailers) has had a bad rap for a long time and been very controversial. That should've given me a clue 🤦‍♂️ Should've maybe picked up the Fantech ALTO for a little more or a Dareu 7.1 ss version at that budget range but the Fantech ALTO seems even more flimsy XD

Perhaps the cable IS bad. Who knows? But the shop can't replace the cable because they surely don't have spares. These cables only come with the products. And EKSA won't (surely) ship me a separate cable. Because they don't serve customers online unless you buy from their website for the obscene over priced-tag. Even if they do ship me an extra, it'll be one of those very poor quality ones which might again perish in 2 months' time like before.

In my country, including me, there are thousands and more headset users who never faced this sort of problem with earthing/grounding when using other usb headphones on the SAME PC set up. And all of a sudden with the introduction of these few embarrassing brands, the problem arises 🤦‍♂️ Easy to say, I'll never trust this local retail brand, nor EKSA.

On alibaba, the E900 PRO sells for as less as $18 last I checked. and here it retailed for around $30. so, over all, the cost cum quality, is way lower than $18 build. Not sturdy, very flimsy too. The USB C cable and connector repeatedly contact my chest and in the long term the connection is likely to get loose. Spoke with an EKSA E900 PRO user before buying it and he reported about loose connection at the headphone after about a year. Kinda reflects on how bad it is in build quality. They cheaped out on everything top to bottom. Even the box BARELY fits the headphone with no foam padding protection.

I've used the A4tech bIoody G437 model for 3.5 years. Wish I could rebuy it, but it's discontinued. What a great $25 champ it was... This is the headset that made me fall in love for 7.1 Surround sound gaming effects. Which brings me to the next point. I may need to make a permanent switch to 2.0 for gaming. I love surround sound effects but oh well. 🤷‍♂️

So, in your opinion, how is the BOLM Z300 IEM earphone for sound clarity in this budget?
And, can you also recommend me a software with which I can tune the sounds? Like, a software which also has an EQ tuning mode.

This was a rant, yes. Please don't delete this. In any case, give a feedback if it needs deletion, I'll abide by the feedback and re-comment. I want the community to know about this headphone's abysmally bad quality.
 

Sheikh Tashdeed Ahmed

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Might be an issue with the USB connection or the headphone's internal components. Try updating your audio drivers and checking for any physical damage to the USB cable.
interesting you mention that. I updated by realtek hd audio manager and reinstalled the eksa software. None of that helped.
Final guess is either of the 2 you have mentioned. Internal components = worst case scenario and also, hard to detect. Prone to damage in poor grounding systems maybe? 🤷‍♂️ Or maybe not. This is pure speculation after all. Or maybe bad usb connection. I don't want to change motherboard for it. And if it is the headphone, just bad luck. Maybe it is the cable connection, but I could not find another usb c cable that fits the headset's usb C female port. Bad design? Well, no prizes for guessing that. If I ever buy a headphone next, will make sure to get one where the wire on the headset is fixed like how it is headsets in the lower budget categgory like Fantech HG11 Captain 7.1 or the BOSS in low budget A4Tech Bioody G437.
 

Sheikh Tashdeed Ahmed

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Thanks to the both of you for trying to help but this is a hit I have to take. Idk what lesson there is to learn, unfortunately. Easy to spew advices such as (and many people do this thinking they're high and wise lol), "don't cheap out on stuff". But they never can mention the minimum which exceeds the "cheap out" range for any parts or those in question 🤔

I've bought low budget components for years and they've mostly worked (even 90% is most). Low budget parts aren't the problem. Problem is when brands cheat us by selling us badly built flimsy products and that can happen even on $100 peripherals of different kind. Anyways, idk how to close a thread. So, won't mind keeping it open. Thanks and peace. ✌
 

Paperdoc

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Ambassador
This may be part of your issue or not, but it does appear to me to indicate a problem. I refer to the last paragraph of your second post, on "Sunday at 11:19 am". In that you say you are confident you have good grounding IF you avoid using one questionable output from the UPS.

What struck me is the statement, "on one of the 3 pin ports on my UPS (output), there is probably no grounding, so if I turn my PC through that, then the PSU grill gives shock, so does my Keyboard USB-C connector when I touch it." Under normal circumstances, even if your system does NOT have a proper connection of its case to Ground, you will NOT get any shock from it. So that post says things are NOT as expected.

Now, the fact that you get no shocks when you use the other UPS outlets confirms that they do have a functioning Ground, although maybe not perfect. But recognize that, in such a system, a good Ground does TWO things for you. The first is that, IF there is some odd electrical path to allow power line Voltage to reach the exterior of the devices so you can touch it and get a shock, a good Ground will divert that power to Ground and you will NOT feel a shock because the residual Voltage is VERY low. The second is that this Ground connection ALSO means that all shields in the signal CABLES can do their job of preventing noise pick-up from outside signals. THIS can impact any noise appearing in things like sound cables and earphones.

There is a related third factor. With modern electrical cables, plugs and wiring systems, the use of a 3-prong plug on a power cable means that the connections from wall outlet to user device are correct. In such a power cable, the three wires are: Hot line, Neutral line, and Ground. Power flows from the Hot line through the device components to Neutral, and normally no current flows in the Ground line. The Ground line WILL carry small noise signals to Ground because the cable shields in the device are connected to the chassis and thus to that Ground line. IF there is some problem in the power circuits that allows current to leak out to the chassis, then those currents also WILL be carried safely to Ground. When your power cable connection to an external true Ground is NOT present, there is no way to "remove" the small noise signals, BUT if there is NO malfunction of the electrical power circuits in the device that can allow current to "leak out", you will NOT receive a shock when touching the chassis! If you really DO feel a shock - real shock, not a small "tingle" that might be imagined - then there IS a problem in your system somewhere.

In many parts of the world the electrical supply system to your house connects ALL the Neutral lines to true Ground both at the supply transformer on the power lines outside, and at the breaker panel in your home. The Neutral lines are NOT Ground lines because they are carrying significant currents back through the panel to the transformer and thus HAVE a non-zero Voltage on them although that should be small. Related item: normally there should never be any current being carried by the Ground lead in a power cable so that IF it needs to carry a current to Ground safely when a problem occurs there is nothing to impede doing that job.

So where the power lines enter a user device the Hot line goes only to where the power is to be consumed, the Neutral line goes only to where the current is returned to the source, and the Ground line goes only to the chassis that you might be able to touch. In some odd situations IF the wiring in the wall socket OR in the plug on the end of the cable has been done improperly, this might not be correct. But that kind of problem is NOT part of OP's situation. HOWEVER, there IS a way things can get "wrong" when you have equipment with an older TWO-prong plug on a device's power cable. Now, the most recent design of 2-prong plugs attempts to prevent a problem here by having the prongs of DIFFERENT widths so that they only can plug into the wall one way. But even that can be defeated by misuse, and there ARE devices with plugs NOT designed with these different prongs. Now, add to that this factor: some consumer devices are made so that the interior circuits allow real power currents to flow to the chassis inside and keep you from touching that chassis. BUT then the NEUTRAL line is connected to that chassis AND any cable shields also are connected there! Such a device works just fine all by itself, and even OK when connected to some other device IF the power plug is connected correctly so that the wall's HOT line does actually go to the power input points, and the NEUTRAL line goes to the chassis. BUT if the plug on the power input cable for this device is put into the wall socket upside down, then Hot and Neutral are REVERSED! The chassis can be at high Voltage but YOU are not aware because you cannot touch it. However, any SHIELDS on attached cables then can have Hot line Voltage on them! THAT may expose the user to electrical shocks at a different spot in the whole system of devices where a cable shield or a chassis part can be touched! Plus, it can introduce noise signals and hum in the connecting cables.

So, it you suspect this, how can you find and fix? There is a simple way that just takes a bit of time. Basically you disconnect the many interconnected devices in a system and start with the minimum, looking for symptoms of the shock. Then you re-connect the devices one at a time until you find one that causes the problem. Then you try to turn over the plug on that device if you can and see if the problem disappears.

OP, in your case, connect your system to the UPS in the way that DOES cause you to experience shocks at the case and cable conectors. Now, disconnect all the signal cables of your peripheral devices like printers, scanners, modems, etc. AND for each device unplug it from its power source socket. That should leave only your computer connected - for now, even the monitor should be disconnected so you can't see anything there. Now check for shocks on the computer case and there should NOT be any. Assuming no shock, re-connect the Monitor signal cable AND its power plug. Check again for shocks. IF you get a shock, try to unplug the power cable for that unit and then plug it back in after turning it upside down. (Obviously, if the plug is the 3-prong type you cannot do that!) If this eliminates the shocks you know you found and fixed one cause. IF this cannot be done becasue of plug configuration but you DO have shocks with this device plugged in, then that device itself has an internal problem.

Once you have one peripheral plugged in and still NO shocks, go on to the next device to add to the system. Continue to add one at a time, checking for shocks and trying to eliminate. Eventually you should get ALL devices re-connected and still NO shocks. OR you may find that one device casues a problem no matter how it is connected, and that is a different issue with THAT device only.

When you have all your system operating with no shocks, you should move the connection to the UPS output to one that you know DOES have a good Ground connection. Now you have a system which has no hazardous electrical leakage causing shocks. MOREOVER, you should have a system with noise-free signal cables thoughout so the noises in your earphones should be gone.
 
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Sheikh Tashdeed Ahmed

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This may be part of your issue or not, but it does appear to me to indicate a problem. I refer to the last paragraph of your second post, on "Sunday at 11:19 am". In that you say you are confident you have good grounding IF you avoid using one questionable output from the UPS.

What struck me is the statement, "on one of the 3 pin ports on my UPS (output), there is probably no grounding, so if I turn my PC through that, then the PSU grill gives shock, so does my Keyboard USB-C connector when I touch it." Under normal circumstances, even if your system does NOT have a proper connection of its case to Ground, you will NOT get any shock from it. So that post says things are NOT as expected.

Now, the fact that you get no shocks when you use the other UPS outlets confirms that they do have a functioning Ground, although maybe not perfect. But recognize that, in such a system, a good Ground does TWO things for you. The first is that, IF there is some odd electrical path to allow power line Voltage to reach the exterior of the devices so you can touch it and get a shock, a good Ground will divert that power to Ground and you will NOT feel a shock because the residual Voltage is VERY low. The second is that this Ground connection ALSO means that all shields in the signal CABLES can do their job of preventing noise pick-up from outside signals. THIS can impact any noise appearing in things like sound cables and earphones.

There is a related third factor. With modern electrical cables, plugs and wiring systems, the use of a 3-prong plug on a power cable means that the connections from wall outlet to user device are correct. In such a power cable, the three wires are: Hot line, Neutral line, and Ground. Power flows from the Hot line through the device components to Neutral, and normally no current flows in the Ground line. The Ground line WILL carry small noise signals to Ground because the cable shields in the device are connected to the chassis and thus to that Ground line. IF there is some problem in the power circuits that allows current to leak out to the chassis, then those currents also WILL be carried safely to Ground. When your power cable connection to an external true Ground is NOT present, there is no way to "remove" the small noise signals, BUT if there is NO malfunction of the electrical power circuits in the device that can allow current to "leak out", you will NOT receive a shock when touching the chassis! If you really DO feel a shock - real shock, not a small "tingle" that might be imagined - then there IS a problem in your system somewhere.

In many parts of the world the electrical supply system to your house connects ALL the Neutral lines to true Ground both at the supply transformer on the power lines outside, and at the breaker panel in your home. The Neutral lines are NOT Ground lines because they are carrying significant currents back through the panel to the transformer and thus HAVE a non-zero Voltage on them although that should be small. Related item: normally there should never be any current being carried by the Ground lead in a power cable so that IF it needs to carry a current to Ground safely when a problem occurs there is nothing to impede doing that job.

So where the power lines enter a user device the Hot line goes only to where the power is to be consumed, the Neutral line goes only to where the current is returned to the source, and the Ground line goes only to the chassis that you might be able to touch. In some odd situations IF the wiring in the wall socket OR in the plug on the end of the cable has been done improperly, this might not be correct. But that kind of problem is NOT part of OP's situation. HOWEVER, there IS a way things can get "wrong" when you have equipment with an older TWO-prong plug on a device's power cable. Now, the most recent design of 2-prong plugs attempts to prevent a problem here by having the prongs of DIFFERENT widths so that they only can plug into the wall one way. But even that can be defeated by misuse, and there ARE devices with plugs NOT designed with these different prongs. Now, add to that this factor: some consumer devices are made so that the interior circuits allow real power currents to flow to the chassis inside and keep you from touching that chassis. BUT then the NEUTRAL line is connected to that chassis AND any cable shields also are connected there! Such a device works just fine all by itself, and even OK when connected to some other device IF the power plug is connected correctly so that the wall's HOT line does actually go to the power input points, and the NEUTRAL line goes to the chassis. BUT if the plug on the power input cable for this device is put into the wall socket upside down, then Hot and Neutral are REVERSED! The chassis can be at high Voltage but YOU are not aware because you cannot touch it. However, any SHIELDS on attached cables then can have Hot line Voltage on them! THAT may expose the user to electrical shocks at a different spot in the whole system of devices where a cable shield or a chassis part can be touched! Plus, it can introduce noise signals and hum in the connecting cables.

So, it you suspect this, how can you find and fix? There is a simple way that just takes a bit of time. Basically you disconnect the many interconnected devices in a system and start with the minimum, looking for symptoms of the shock. Then you re-connect the devices one at a time until you find one that causes the problem. Then you try to turn over the plug on that device if you can and see if the problem disappears.

OP, in your case, connect your system to the UPS in the way that DOES cause you to experience shocks at the case and cable conectors. Now, disconnect all the signal cables of your peripheral devices like printers, scanners, modems, etc. AND for each device unplug it from its power source socket. That should leave only your computer connected - for now, even the monitor should be disconnected so you can't see anything there. Now check for shocks on the computer case and there should NOT be any. Assuming no shock, re-connect the Monitor signal cable AND its power plug. Check again for shocks. IF you get a shock, try to unplug the power cable for that unit and then plug it back in after turning it upside down. (Obviously, if the plug is the 3-prong type you cannot do that!) If this eliminates the shocks you know you found and fixed one cause. IF this cannot be done becasue of plug configuration but you DO have shocks with this device plugged in, then that device itself has an internal problem.

Once you have one peripheral plugged in and still NO shocks, go on to the next device to add to the system. Continue to add one at a time, checking for shocks and trying to eliminate. Eventually you should get ALL devices re-connected and still NO shocks. OR you may find that one device casues a problem no matter how it is connected, and that is a different issue with THAT device only.

When you have all your system operating with no shocks, you should move the connection to the UPS output to one that you know DOES have a good Ground connection. Now you have a system which has no hazardous electrical leakage causing shocks. MOREOVER, you should have a system with noise-free signal cables thoughout so the noises in your earphones should be gone.
Hi Paperdoc, thank you for this very detailed reply. I understood most of it, but kept a mental note of the troubleshooting steps mentioned. I'll try to apply the elimination method of trouble shooting when I get time.