Recent content by artoodeeto2

Thanks, that’s kind of what I thought. I don’t have a problem buying a copy of 10, I just wanted to put if off a month or so but have a functional system in the meantime. I’ve already bought one copy for a different system in the house (we’ve got 5 computers...) and will have to do so again...

I’m putting together an HTPC, and while I do plan on getting Windows 10 for it at some point, I was hoping to avoid the expense for now. I’m currently running the free upgrade windows 10 on my desktop pc, upgraded from my (now ancient) copy of Vista which was in turn upgraded to Win7 and then...

ok thanks. I mainly wanted to make sure that the power switch, when pressed, wouldn't create a momentary connection between the audio device and the motherboard (since the button would be wired to both) that could potentially fry one or the other if the voltages were different on each device.

I’m putting together a custom TARDIS case (worklog over here if anyone’s interested). I wanted the TARDIS sound to play as the system starts up. That means needing a dedicated device to play the audio during bootup, so I bought one of these. I have two questions: 1. If I splice the button...

I forgot about this thread - I ended up buying a new motherboard and that solved the problem. Computer is totally fine now. :D

Yep, I pulled the PSU from my wife’s system and hooked it up to mine, with the same results. It’s gotta be the motherboard that’s the problem, it’s the only thing I haven’t replaced or unplugged yet. In a way I’m kind of glad it was the motherboard. It’s always had this weird USB issue - when...

Already did :) My computer and my wife’s have identical gtx 1060s. I put mine in hers and hers in mine. My system still didn’t boot up, and hers is running perfectly fine with my gpu in it.

Yeah, that was one of the first things I looked for - I use a dark purple UV sensitive coolant that’s pretty easy to see if it’s leaked. Everything’s clean. (I did have a leak once, years ago, on a different motherboard. Fried two RAM chips since it happened while the system was on, and the...

I’ve now tried switching the cpu and 2 sticks ram with the ones from my wife’s computer. Same results - fans, lights on, no signal to monitors. Must be the motherboard as it’s literally the only thing I haven’t unplugged or swapped out, so I’ll be ordering a new one.

I’ve now tried: Different PSU Running on 2 sticks of RAM (dual channel and I have 4 total) Running on 2 sticks of RAM in the other 2 slots Running on 1 stick of RAM Different video card Video card in secondary slot instead of primary Removing sound card I have two hard drives - tried running...

Thanks for the suggestion. I did as you said, and the pump is spinning when hooked up to the case fan header. The case fan IS spinning when hooked up to the CPU fan header. But...still no signal to the monitors. It just sits there with the lights in and the fans running. So I can’t get into...

Forgot to mention - I did read through the no POST sticky, but that’s mainly geared towards a new build, whereas mine hasn’t had hardware changes in a long while and it’s been working fine.

Specs: Gigabyte GA970ud3 mb AMD FX8350 (liquid cooled w/Laing ddc 3.25 pump) Kingston hyperx blu ram, 16gb (I think) Nvidia gtx 1060(not liquid cooled), just updated to driver 399.24 Samsung 850 ssd and 2.5” hd Sound blaster z Dual 24” lcds, 1920x1080 each. One hooked up via hdmi, the other...

Yeah that was my take too - I ran memtest and all 16GB of RAM checked out just fine. The only thing I can think of is whatever Windows tried to do when it started scanning the C drive on that first bootup, is what did this. I've built my own computer systems for 22 years now, and I've never...

I've had 8GB of PC-1333 Kingston HyperX Blu RAM in my system for years. I bought 2 identical sticks the other day, got them today, and added them in. Prior to putting them in, I flipped the main power switch on my power supply to fully shut off power to the system. I put the new sticks in...