Recent content by morgancomputers

There is a fairly simple and easy to use app literally called 'Touchscreen Test' LINK The description might be due to a loose/faulty connection or the screens digitiser might be faulty, it is replaceable. The part is not overly expensive but the labour costs to do it well can be.. do check 3rd...

I cant really comment on that brand... But I have been using PowerExtra in both my 5Dmk 3 and 4 for ages now and they are reliable and safe...

The only improvements you are likely to see are from ensuring the boot order is set to the HDD 1st, the Memory parity checks are off, Fast-boot is enabled (if its even in your BIOS). Other than that if you really want to improve your boot time get an SSD and install the OS on that!

I suspect the power adaptor/charger uses a non-grounded 2 pin plug, or the socket you are plugging it into is not grounded/earthed. You get the tingling/shock as the laptop on charge is not grounded and the difference in electrical charge between it and you is using your body as a route to...

All depends, you can pick up a Refurbished Windows 7 i5 14" 1280x800 laptop for sub £140

How tight and what OS are you looking to run on it? Depending on where you are I may have a few suggestions.

Hey.. Can you get some details on the BIOS settings and version? Often slow boot times can be a result of things like Boot order, Drive checks and RAM parity testing. Also is the Bios version the most current version 4011? https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-B350-PLUS/HelpDesk_BIOS/

Double check the enclosure some 'USB 3.0' caddy's are in fact only SATA II not SATA III so that will bottleneck the HDD. Secondly check the actual HDD if its an older 5200rpm SATA II Drive then you will not get great perfprmance even in a fully rated SATA III USB 3.0 enclosure. I hope that...

If you want 7.1 Audio on a budget then I highly recommend the Razer Electra V2-7.1 Surround Sound Digital they are sub $50 on Amazon.com! (Make sure you get the 3.5mm version not the USB version!) Personally I now use the Turtle Bead - Ear Force XO One Amplified headset they are 'only stereo'...

If you are running all HDMI (Dual from PC) + Single from Xbox Run the Audio from the screen that has both inputs connected to it and you will get the audio from what ever channel is actively being displayed. The other option is to run audio from both into a small audio selector switch outputting...

Looking at the spec you are working with I would be suprised if you achieved over 100fps on more demanding games in 1080p so having a monitor that has a 244Hz rate is not really going to benefit you, you would be better putting the extra cash back into your other upgrades.

For the price of the parts you may as well pick up a new replacement lcd panel of Amazon/eBay for £30 and watch a few good youtube vids on how to replace the existing one. You could use the same vids to strip the existing one out and re-fit it to see if it is a physical connection issue.