Recent content by Namdhda

I have the ultimate, non-riing. My problem is that even setting a curve to "0%" under x degrees has the fans at 1000 rpm; that seems to be their minimum. So the next step is unplugging them it seems.

I have thermaltake's 360mm AIO water cooler. As it is a 360mm radiator, there are 3 120mm pwm fans associated with it. Can i either a) unplug two of the pwm fans from the 3-to-1 cable it comes with, or b) route two of them through a switch to turn them on/off and back to the 3-to-1, so as to...

Can't post a picture right now, but the three 120s that came with the AIO are mounted in push underneath the radiator, which is mounted to the top of the chassis. The 230 is then mounted externally, providing some small amount of pull on the radiator.

Take it off and scrape and reapply the thermal grease. Check the pins of the headers you are using. Check your fan curve. If the pump is at 100% but the fans aren't, that means you're cycling water back through the heatsink before it can be fully cooled, which means your temp will rise.

I wouldn't go with Quadro or Firepro cards. They are overpriced because big companies often ignore price tags, and performance is far inferior to gaming graphics card such as the gtx 900 series.

970 in SLI is amazing, but general rule of thumb is go with the better single card. It's cheaper to buy another 970 than to sell your current one and get a 980 ti of course, but I would go with the 980 ti and eventually SLI -that-

http://www.tested.com/tech/457440-theoretical-vs-actual-bandwidth-pci-express-and-thunderbolt/ Older article but the point still stands. You won't notice the difference. Go with the newer equipment for its ither advantages.

Let's approach it this way. The rule of thumb (per the idea that hot air rises) is intake on the bottom and front, and exhaust on top and in the back. So either mount it on the top or the rear. You like the idea of a top mounted radiator, and I'll tell you what: I like your thinking. I myself...

I have a HAF 932. Recently i got tt's water 3.0 ultimate, installation went fine etc, but the top 230 had to come out (duh). I mounted it with cotter pins on top of the tower, so technically it is acting as pull for the rad. Does this hinder the rad's cooling? Maybe some negative effect of the...

If you can fit 3 120s or 2 140s on the top, I've got a real nice idea for you. Get yourself an aio water cooler! Corsair makes a 280mm radiator (2 140s next to each other), and thermaltake's water 3.0 ultimate is a 360mm radiator (3 120s next to each other). Either of these will obviously cool...

I just upgraded to the Tt water 3.0 Ultimate (and loving it), and i put my 212 evo sideways on a blue led 120 in front of my psu. Useless and more than likely hinders performance but i dont care because it looks like a nuclear reactor LOL

Another option you have, pretty hillbilly if you do this, but you could screw a 120-to-140mm adapter onto the extra brackets to have a 140 pulling air through instead of a 120 pulling air through. You'd get points for originality, that's for sure. You could even use your tower's 140, if it came...

I have a PSU that came with a blue LED fan in it that provides a neat underglow on my tower, I liked it so I added a blue 120MM in front of it. Looks pretty sick.

I have this case. The colored wires for the front header are positive. The white wires are negative. It is this way in every case I've seen.

I'm slightly on the side of positive pressure. My tower has a 230mm intake in front, a 230mm side intake, a 120mm intake on the bottom, a 140mm exhaust in back, a 230mm exhaust on top, and a 120mm exhaust on top, plus a 120mm behind the hard drive cage pointed toward the back to promote airflow...