Question 100% alcohol ?

May 5, 2024
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I've heard about 70% alcohol but what about 100%? Currently replacing my PSU right now, wiping the psu place with 100% alcohol on a fiber cloth(the one usually used to clean ur glasses), is this a good idea? 100% alcohol shouldn't have any water.
 
I've heard about 70% alcohol but what about 100%? Currently replacing my PSU right now, wiping the psu place with 100% alcohol on a fiber cloth(the one usually used to clean ur glasses), is this a good idea? 100% alcohol shouldn't have any water.
Should be OK. It is not common to find isopropyl alcohol greater than 91%. Generally only laboratory supply have greater.
It may be very drying on your hands. I would recommend Nitrile gloves.
 
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right now, wiping the psu place with 100% alcohol on a fiber cloth(the one usually used to clean ur glasses), is this a good idea?
Why exactly? Is your "psu place" so extremely dirty that for cleaning - use of solvents is required?
Unless your previous psu caught fire or exploded,
there shouldn't be anything more than a thin layer of dust.
Wipe it off with a cloth or a paper towel.
 
Why exactly? Is your "psu place" so extremely dirty that for cleaning - use of solvents is required?
Unless your previous psu caught fire or exploded,
there shouldn't be anything more than a thin layer of dust.
Wipe it off with a cloth or a paper towel.
Well first im a clean freak and 4 years of dust...
 
Should be OK. It is not common to find isopropyl alcohol greater than 91%. Generally only laboratory supply have greater.
It may be very drying on your hands. I would recommend Nitrile gloves.
Thanks for confirming this, and thanks for the tips don't worry my hands won't mind a bit of alcohol contact ROTFL
Oh and also this alcohol is says industrial grade iirc when i bought it so more or less lab use i guess
 
Well first im a clean freak and 4 years of dust...
Just remember that alcohol is a water and oil compatible solvent. Any paint exposed to 100% alcohol will be more likely to be damaged in some way.
if you have 100% alcohol, then you probably have access to distilled or deionized water. Maybe dilute your alcohol before use.
 
Just remember that alcohol is a water and oil compatible solvent. Any paint exposed to 100% alcohol will be more likely to be damaged in some way.
Funny thing is i wiped the plastic part of my case with it a month ago, well my case has a battle scar now 😂, i totally forgot how alc reacts to plastic
 
"Industrial Grade" means the OPPOSITE or "chemically pure". This is a grade which accepts significant impurities.It is VERY likely that it contains some water, and that is NOT specified for such a grade. All alcohols (especially the small simple ones) have a huge affinity for water and it is extremely difficult to get some with NO water. In fact, even if you do, the super-"dry" alcohol will suck water vapour out of the air any time it is left exposed.

There are MANY alcohols, and even several of the simpler types that are sold commonly for cleaning use. Methanol ("wood alcohol"), Ethanol (the only one people can drink), n-Propanol, iso-Propanol, even n-Butanol and 2-Butanol. Ethanol, because it can be consumed, is tightly regulated and expensive. You probably have basic Methanol, but might have one of the Propanols. Each is available most commonly at about 90% alcohol and 10% water. Some are sold as 70% alcohol at a cheaper price.

All of these, irrespective of the water content, are good cleaning solvents. OP's concern is what about the WATER left behind when the liquid film evaporates after cleaning electronic gear. It IS true that the 70% stuff will leave slightly more water that you get with the 90% stuff. Emphasis on the "slightly". What is left in BOTH cases will evaporate off quite quickly, leaving an uncontaminated dry surface.
 
"Industrial Grade" means the OPPOSITE or "chemically pure". This is a grade which accepts significant impurities.It is VERY likely that it contains some water, and that is NOT specified for such a grade. All alcohols (especially the small simple ones) have a huge affinity for water and it is extremely difficult to get some with NO water. In fact, even if you do, the super-"dry" alcohol will suck water vapour out of the air any time it is left exposed.

There are MANY alcohols, and even several of the simpler types that are sold commonly for cleaning use. Methanol ("wood alcohol"), Ethanol (the only one people can drink), n-Propanol, iso-Propanol, even n-Butanol and 2-Butanol. Ethanol, because it can be consumed, is tightly regulated and expensive. You probably have basic Methanol, but might have one of the Propanols. Each is available most commonly at about 90% alcohol and 10% water. Some are sold as 70% alcohol at a cheaper price.

All of these, irrespective of the water content, are good cleaning solvents. OP's concern is what about the WATER left behind when the liquid film evaporates after cleaning electronic gear. It IS true that the 70% stuff will leave slightly more water that you get with the 90% stuff. Emphasis on the "slightly". What is left in BOTH cases will evaporate off quite quickly, leaving an uncontaminated dry surface.
Just to add that light alcohols are hygroscopic so absorb water even from air. to have it 100% would mean keeping it in vacuum but as soon as you use it it absorbs water, Typically, they are between 97.1 - 97.5 %. rest is water and other impurities.
Ethyl alcohol sold for usage other than human consumption is usually "de-naturalized" by adding foul smelling substances like Pyrimidine and so skirt eventual extra taxes or other restrictions to sales.
 
Just to add that light alcohols are hygroscopic so absorb water even from air. to have it 100% would mean keeping it in vacuum but as soon as you use it it absorbs water, Typically, they are between 97.1 - 97.5 %. rest is water and other impurities.
Ethyl alcohol sold for usage other than human consumption is usually "de-naturalized" by adding foul smelling substances like Pyrimidine and so skirt eventual extra taxes or other restrictions to sales.
Hmmm that might be true, the listing did say 100% but probably rounded up for the sake of catching someone's interest, but it does make sense if its 90%ish cuz it smells way more alcoholly than the one i use to treat wounds
 
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@Mihari

You are not cleaning wounds. Germs are not a factor.

And using a higher % than the standard 70% is unlikely to make much of a difference with respect to cleaning. Do two cleanings if deemed necessary. Or a single cleaning with a bit more gentle elbow grease. Pre-dust to remove loose dust and debris.

Simple and avoids the cited problems.

Just my thoughts on the matter.
 
@Mihari

You are not cleaning wounds. Germs are not a factor.

And using a higher % than the standard 70% is unlikely to make much of a difference with respect to cleaning. Do two cleanings if deemed necessary. Or a single cleaning with a bit more gentle elbow grease. Pre-dust to remove loose dust and debris.

Simple and avoids the cited problems.

Just my thoughts on the matter.
I see thanks