100% Disk Usage--problem with OS or failing hard drive?

[Aelle]

So, like many other people, I'm having issues with Windows 10 hogging up my hard drive. I didn't have these issues until I upgraded to Windows 10, however, my computer is close to ten years old (the driver date for my hard drive is 2006) and some of the issues I've had could also point to imminent hard drive failure. For example, I've gotten error messages that random programs can't be started or froze--including Windows 10 itself.

On the other hand, these are issues that I've only encountered while running my computer normally. My hard drive appears to be working just fine in safe mode, whereas it takes a good fifteen minutes just to open msconfig or task manager while I'm in normal mode. I've been working on this problem for a while, so I've already tried a few things. I have:

1. Disabled Superfetch, which didn't work, and later re-enabled it because I'm using an HDD and not an SSD.

2. Disabled Windows Defender and downloaded a different antivirus. Note: the process that I most often see hogging up my I/O read/write bytes is MsMpEng.exe, but even when it's not at the top of the list, my hard drive stays at 100%.

3. Changed the page file to a custom value. This made absolutely no difference at all.

4. Ran an sfc scan. It always says it found corrupt files but can't fix them. DISM gives me similar results.

5. Ran check disk. Several times. I've noted that running check disk seems to clear the problem up briefly, but by the next day my computer is unbearably slow again. This is one of the issues that makes me believe my hard drive might be about to bite the dust.

6. I have attempted to run an antivirus scan on several occasions, both in safe mode and normal mode. It always gets stuck, without exception, and can't complete the scan. I did have to go without an antivirus other than Windows Defender for a brief period when I upgraded to Windows 10 because my previous antivirus (Avast) was not compatible. I'm currently using AVG and Malwarebytes, and Windows Defender still squawks at me to turn it back on.

7. Disabled Windows Update P2P. No real difference here, either.

I'm at the point where I'm out of ideas...I've tried just about everything short of a clean install of Windows 10. I'm not even able to use the back up tool to save my data, so I'm hesitant to run out and just get a new hard drive--I am prepared to do it if my hard drive is indeed the culprit, but it's definitely a last resort.

If possible, could you guys recommend some things that I haven't already tried? Preferably something that I can do in safe mode, because my computer is almost unusable in normal mode. It gets locked up doing some of the most simple tasks and I'm forced to power it off manually.

 

[Darkbreeze]

First, make sure to back up all important data to a cloud storage or external drive, or even optical disks like DVD or Blu ray if necessary.

Then, run Seatools for windows. Run the short DST (Drive self test) and the long generic. If it fails either test, try unplugging and reconnecting the SATA cable and test again. No change, try swapping out the cable, and test again. Still no change, try a different SATA header on the motherboard. If it fails either of the tests after doing each and all of those things, then the drive is faulty. If it results in a high number of bad sectors, then the drive is faulty.


Seatools for Windows: http://www.seagate.com/support/downloads/item/seatools-win-master/


And Seatools is not manufacturer specific. It works on all brands and drive types.

 

[Aelle]

Alright, I ran the short DST and it failed after 10%. I'm running the long generic now just to be thorough, but I'll try switching out the SATA cable next. As for backup, I'm a little stuck...I can't use the Windows 10 back up tool (it fails due to time outs) and honestly, I'm okay with losing most of my data--I've backed up most of what I would hate to lose--but I really don't want to have to go out and buy a new copy of Windows 10 if my hard drive dies. Any way I could possibly get my activation key and reuse it if it comes to that?

 

[Darkbreeze]

If you have already had an activated installation running on your machine, whether it was a new full version copy, a clean install or even just an upgrade, then the BIOS hardware ID string is already attached to windows 10 and you can perform a clean install without fear of losing activation or needing to purchase new installation media. It is essential that you know that it was in fact activated though. Go to control panel, system, and look on the main window to see that it indicates the system is activated, unless you already know it is.

This is the clean install method and how to create your installation media.

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-2784691/ditch-problematic-win10-upgrade-replace-clean-install.html

 

[Aelle]

It shows me a product ID, but under activation it just says "restart Windows in normal mode to activate".

 

[Darkbreeze]

Are you running in safe mode?

What is your motherboard model number?

 

[Aelle]

I am in safe mode for the moment. It's the only way I can run these tests. I will be restarting it in normal mode later though, as soon as I can confirm whether or not the hard drive is a lost cause, so I can check again at that point.

I'm using an Asus P8P67 -M pro.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Unfortunately, Intel nor ASUS lists any Windows 10 drivers for your motherboard or processor chipset yet. While I know many of these systems are running windows 10 just fine, it's very possible that this is the problem. Intel doesn't even yet list any windows 10 .inf installer packages or chipset software for anything, which is just ridiculous considering they are the biggest player in the game.

Most the Windows 10 chipset drivers are available on the motherboard manufacturer websites, likely developed by those manufacturers using the base chipset drivers from Intel, but your board does not show any yet.

 

[Aelle]

Wow, that really is shocking, especially considering how long Windows 10 has been available to the public. If it turns out that my hard drive is fine, I'll just keep my eyes peeled for any news about new drivers for my motherboard. It probably wouldn't hurt to update my HDD's firmware either.

I'm still waiting on the long generic, but honestly it wouldn't surprise me one bit if maybe the SATA cable is loose somewhere. I recently had to install a new case fan which was in an awkward position, so it's not impossible that I jostled something. It was around that time that I started having issues with the hard drive.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yeah, I'd get in there and verify that for sure. Aside from that, I'm going to check through a few channels to see if perhaps there are any beta windows 10 Intel chipset drivers yet that have not been released to the general public on the Intel website. Doubtful, but it does happen sometimes. Usually the OEM has drivers by now but this iteration of windows has shown almost all the OEMs to have been lazy, and assuming that their Windows 8 drivers would work fine. After going through this same debacle to some degree during the transition from 7 to 8, you'd think they'd have learned that when a new OS also brings a new driver framework, the older drivers are likely to have problems. But they mainly only care about their newest hardware support rather than older products that aren't likely to make them any money despite the development time and cost investment.

 

[Aelle]

Yeah, it really is ridiculous, and not very good for their sales--at least not from my perspective. If I've been running a computer for almost a decade and the manufacturers just forget that my hardware even exists, I'm not likely to buy from them again no matter how good the part was. Considering that a lot more people are building their own PCs which tend to last significantly longer than the 4-5 years you can expect out of pre-builts, they have to expect that there's someone out there still using a ten year old product.

 

[Darkbreeze]

They know there is, they just don't care. If your product is still running beyond the warranty period, it's given you more than your money's worth after ten years as far as they're concerned. Things like this are what drive people to buy new hardware, and they know that too. This is EVERY manufacturer, not just ASUS and not just Intel. AMD, ASRock, Gigabyte, MSI and all the rest are having the exact same issues regarding a lack of available drivers for older hardware as the ASUS board is. Honestly, if the hardware is ten years old, it probably IS time to retire it, but I also understand that sometimes finances don't always allow us to do what we know we should, so we do what we have to.

 

[Aelle]

I've honestly been shocked at how well my PC has done considering how old it is. Up until now, I haven't had much issue with it, and--recent hard drive issues aside--it STILL outperforms some of my friends' newer PCs. Ten years of gaming and it's only just now getting to a point where I can't run some new games on max settings. Even if I have to retire it, it's been good to me. I can't complain.

Money isn't really an issue for me at the moment, it's more the inconvenience...although as I sit here wondering what route to take if my hard drive is choking on its last breath, I'm trying to figure out if I want to fork out the money to upgrade to an SSD. Probably an SSD/HDD combo, because a 1TB SSD would probably bankrupt me.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I'd never go with a 1TB SSD until the prices drop astronomically. Going with a 250 or 256GB SSD for the OS and programs, and a 1TB WD or Seagate HDD for files, folders and backup is the standard way to go and is the least expensive option. Something like this, if you have to go this route which I'm not yet entirely convinced will correct your issues, but might, is what I'd probably do:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.00 @ B&H)
Total: $157.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-07 01:48 EDT-0400

 

[Aelle]

That's not a bad price at all. I'll hang on to those links if it turns out I'll need to retire the HDD, thanks!

The long generic just failed, so it's not looking too good for the HDD at the moment. I'll go check the SATA cable now.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Usually if it's a cable problem, it will fail right off the bat. The quick failure with the drive self test had me thinking SATA cable, but the long generic taking a while to fail leads me to the drive. Unless it failed pretty quickly too. Does it specify what the failure was? Bad sectors or something? Did the drive make any strange noises at all? Clunking or clicking?

 

[Aelle]

It didn't really give me any answer to why it failed, I just got the standard "failed test" message that I got with the DST. No strange noises either...I was thinking about trying the fix option in the program to see if it could reallocate any bad sectors. It's definitely not the cable, I tried everything short of putting a completely new cable in (only because I don't have one handy) and the tests still fail.

And yeah, the long generic made it almost to 80% before it failed.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Fixing sectors on an old drive is a bad idea. Half the time it instantly tanks the drive, the other half, well, why bother. IF there are enough bad sectors to have to bother with fixing, the drive is unreliable for use and cannot be trusted with your files, folders or data.

 

[Aelle]

Yeah, I'm already looking into replacement parts. I might even go ahead and set up an entirely new rig. Right now I'm just transferring some things to an external drive...as it stands, I can't use the built in back up tool for Windows because the drive is so slow, but maybe I can salvage a few files. Unfortunately, without a backup tool and if I decide to put together an entirely new rig, I probably will have to shell out some cash for Windows 10. Ah well.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Even with the backup tool you would need to. Changing motherboards qualifies as a "new" computer, and while it can be done by reinstalling the original OS if you had Windows 8 or 8.1, which is unlikely on a machine that old, with Windows 7 you couldn't reinstall that on a new machine either as Windows 7 is tied to the motherboard bios id string.

You might be able to install Windows 10 on a new machine and convince whomever you talk to on the Microsoft activation support side of things that you just had to replace the motherboard, which is close enough to true to count in my book, and have them reset the activation for your product key, but I've seen that go both ways. Most often they tell you to reinstall your original product and then contact the activation hotline for help, then upgrade to 10 again. Honestly, it's almost worth the 85 bucks to just not have to deal with it every again on that machine.


If you have a valid windows 8 or 8.1 key, it's much simpler, but still a few hoops to jump through.

 

[Aelle]

Hah, if they asked me to reinstall the original product then I'd be screwed. My Windows 7 was genuine but not installed by me; several years back I had to take it in to a repair shop to get the power supply checked, and while they were looking at it they called me out for having a "multi-user" version of Windows 7 and made me pay for a new copy. So I paid for it, they installed it, and I never got a disk or a product key or anything. I know, it was my own fault for trying to be cheap, but boy has it come back to bite me in the butt! So I really have no physical copy of Windows whatsoever. I do have the product key from the system info though, so if I'm lucky, maybe calling them wouldn't be such a bad idea.

I am honestly considering an entirely new rig at this point, so technically I AM replacing the motherboard, after all.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I'd be happy to help you outline the best machine for the least amount of money, so if you decide to go that route, let me know, and tell me what kind of overall budget you might have to work with.

If you plan on reusing any hardware, it would be best to list the model numbers so I can confirm or deny compatibility with the rest of the parts, or even just chime in on whether it's a good idea or not. If you have an older power supply for example, it's probably best to not reuse it. Anyhow, let me know and if you wish I'd be glad to help.

 

[Aelle]

The only thing I can think of that I'd be fairly comfortable reusing are my memory cards, but even then, they're DDR2 and pretty outdated at this point. I'm putting together a list of parts now, and so far I'm at $704 but that's excluding storage, GPU and optical drives. Not to mention I'm only glancing at a few of the reviews, so further research would be needed...I'd really appreciate your help! You've been a great help to me by the way, so I also wanted to say thanks for that.

I'm alright with going up to $1500 but I'm more comfortable at $1000. I've already mentioned that I game, so high specs are a must. My real limitation is that everything has to be available on Newegg...this puppy's gotta go on credit. Yay preferred account?

Here's a sample list of some of the parts that I've looked at so far:

EVGA 220-G2-0750-XR 80 PLUS GOLD 750 W 10 yr Warranty ECO Mode Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI Ready and Crossfire Support Continuous Power Supply
$124.99

Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case with Upgraded USB 3.0
$99.99

HyperX FURY 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Memory Model HX316C10FB/8
$44.99


MSI Z97 GAMING 5 LGA 1150 Intel Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
$149.99

Intel Core i5-4690K Devil's Canyon Quad-Core 3.5 GHz LGA 1150 BX80646I54690K Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4600
$239.99

 

[Darkbreeze]

What is your main usage of this machine? Secondary usage as well. And yes, the DDR2 memory is a no go. The Antec 900 is a very old case design. You can get a much better case with more modern features for around that price or a bit less. Are you wanting a full tower or a mid tower case?

 

[Aelle]

Gaming would be the main thing, but also general multimedia; music, movies, the occasional photo or video edit. It's also the PC I'll be using for college/work, but that's just Office. If it helps, it'll also be the main computer in my house that uses a wired internet connection.