Question 1050 Ti damaged or not properly connected ?

Jun 1, 2025
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Hi, I got a used GTX 1050 Ti and it is not working well, green flickering screen from the start even during POST.

I guess it could have a damaged edge-connector or maybe my case is not letting the bottom part of the connector go down far enough in the PCIe slot (last image) ?

Thanks in advance.

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Solution
To have the correct firmware, means flash the card? I don't know about that.
And no money back, I got it on fb marketplace, but thanks.
Yes, flashing required and going buy the linked thread that also has some VBIOS files it sounds like nvflash isn't an option and SPI programmer is necessary. That means additional cost if you don't have one, last one I bought was about $6 and came with 1.8V adapter and clip although the clip is a bit fiddly IMO. Handy to have if doing changes not just for graphics cards but also mainboards and having that backup made with it on a good BIOS means you can get back to square one unless the chip or board is destroyed in the process.
Probably heat damaged.
You should show a pic of what the screen looks like.
Make sure the fans on the card spin.
Both fans of the card do spin, this image is not mine, but is similar to what I saw, I may get more green and gray lines but similar. When moving the mouse you can read some things where the mouse is hovering or selecting, but the rest of the screen is hard or impossible to see, sometimes some big square areas can be seen better. I even managed to install nvidia drivers with this problem (or I think I did lol)

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Agreed. That SLI port is a big give away since the 1050ti doesn't support SLI. Likely a GTX 440 with a frankensteined bios. Bet it even has a VGA port on the back.
It has vga port in the back, also dvi and hdmi (I used hdmi). Don't know wich is the sli port, but the card seems pretty similar to the one I own (a r7 260x). Maybe could be something fake, but it has signs of being used and some dust in the fans, so I think it should work at least.

My concern about it not being well connected is because I feel and see that the small part of the pcie is not well connected, as is my current r7 260x. Maybe If I take the motherboard out of the case I can push it down, because the back metal pannel where the screw of the card goes crashes with my case and dont let it go more down.

Here are more images of the card:

mR43vyV.jpeg


B8M7Ajc.jpeg


prX89WG.jpeg
 
Here's a pic of a fake GTX1050Ti
svnKeSa.jpeg

From https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/flashing-fake-gtx-1050-ti-bios.300419/

It uses Hynix memory, yours Samsung maybe K4G10325 which are 1Gb chips so VRAM with 8 chips = 1GiB, 4 chips = 512MiB. You can try running GPUZ to check if GF116. The shorter fingers at the ends of the PCIe connector are presence detect and should insure all other fingers are making contact (providing not damaged or dirty) before the card is powered so probably no need to worry if inserted far enough.
 
Here's a pic of a fake GTX1050Ti
svnKeSa.jpeg

From https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/flashing-fake-gtx-1050-ti-bios.300419/

It uses Hynix memory, yours Samsung maybe K4G10325 which are 1Gb chips so VRAM with 8 chips = 1GiB, 4 chips = 512MiB. You can try running GPUZ to check if GF116. The shorter fingers at the ends of the PCIe connector are presence detect and should insure all other fingers are making contact (providing not damaged or dirty) before the card is powered so probably no need to worry if inserted far enough.
Ok, I'm going to open it to take pictures and clean it also. The problem is I cannot run GPUZ or anything with that card because I barely can read the screen, my CPU has no integrated graphics it's an FX-6300.

Also what I meant whit the short section of the pcie is the right part of the pice slot (square number 1), the square number 2 seems well inserted but 1 seems loose, because the problem I see is in square 3, my pc case wont let that part of the graphics card go deeper.

MILzhLd.jpeg
 
It has vga port in the back, also dvi and hdmi (I used hdmi). Don't know wich is the sli port, but the card seems pretty similar to the one I own (a r7 260x). Maybe could be something fake, but it has signs of being used and some dust in the fans, so I think it should work at least.

My concern about it not being well connected is because I feel and see that the small part of the pcie is not well connected, as is my current r7 260x. Maybe If I take the motherboard out of the case I can push it down, because the back metal pannel where the screw of the card goes crashes with my case and dont let it go more down.

Here are more images of the card:

mR43vyV.jpeg


B8M7Ajc.jpeg


prX89WG.jpeg

100 percent fake and that looks like artifacting
 
Well this are the images I took from inside. Being fake doesn't mean it shouldn't work right? I could test again in some days when my am5 parts for a new pc get home. Thanks.

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Ok, I'm going to open it to take pictures and clean it also. The problem is I cannot run GPUZ or anything with that card because I barely can read the screen
Okay, seemed there was some room at the bottom of the screen to drag GPUZ to to see the info of interest.
Also what I meant whit the short section of the pcie is the right part of the pice slot (square number 1), the square number 2 seems well inserted but 1 seems loose, because the problem I see is in square 3, my pc case wont let that part of the graphics card go deeper.
It's in far enough otherwise the card would not be detected.


Being fake doesn't mean it shouldn't work right?
The driver is probably being told there is 4GB of VRAM when there's a lot less so not addressable. Possibly memory error but best to get the right firmware working first. Or maybe you can try to get your money back?

If you look carefully at your GPU pic you can just make out 'GF' and '16', lazy faker didn't do a 100% job of erasing it.
16.jpg
 
Okay, seemed there was some room at the bottom of the screen to drag GPUZ to to see the info of interest.

It's in far enough otherwise the card would not be detected.



The driver is probably being told there is 4GB of VRAM when there's a lot less so not addressable. Possibly memory error but best to get the right firmware working first. Or maybe you can try to get your money back?

If you look carefully at your GPU pic you can just make out 'GF' and '16', lazy faker didn't do a 100% job of erasing it.
The screenshot of the problem was an example, the lines are moving constantly so its very hard to read or even click correct buttons.
So problem whouldnt be bad connected card.
To have the correct firmware, means flash the card? I don't know about that.
And no money back, I got it on fb marketplace, but thanks.
Fake cards sometimes work, they sometimes don't. The sellers of junk used products are not particularly concerned with anything but taking your money. Hopefully you bought it through a site that has buyer protections.
Thanks, I got it cheap on fb marketplace.
 
To have the correct firmware, means flash the card? I don't know about that.
And no money back, I got it on fb marketplace, but thanks.
Yes, flashing required and going buy the linked thread that also has some VBIOS files it sounds like nvflash isn't an option and SPI programmer is necessary. That means additional cost if you don't have one, last one I bought was about $6 and came with 1.8V adapter and clip although the clip is a bit fiddly IMO. Handy to have if doing changes not just for graphics cards but also mainboards and having that backup made with it on a good BIOS means you can get back to square one unless the chip or board is destroyed in the process.
 
Solution