1500$ Gaming Rig...few Questions PLz

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RobbyT123

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May 28, 2003
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Ya ya, i know there have been alot of threads like this, but i have been reading these forums for a while, and have done some research, and have come up with a setup for my new computer...and could really use your guys input. Heres what ive got so far.... all from newegg by the way

Case- ANTEC LIFE STYLE SERIES SONATA PIANO BLACK Model# Sonata w/ ANTEC TRUE380 380W Power Supply

CD-RW Drive- Lite On 52x32x52x Black Color CDRW Drive LTR-52327S - OEM

DVD ROM Drive- LITE-ON XJ-HD166/XJ-HD 165H 16X DVD ROM Drive BLACK- OEM

Floppy Drive- SAMSUNG 1.44MB BLACK FLOPPY DRIVE Model# SFD321B/LBL - OEM, DRIVE ONLY

Hard Drive- Western Digital 120GB SATA WD1200JD 7,200 RPM 8MB Hard Drive OEM

Keyboard and Mouse- Logitech Cordless MX Duo - RETAIL

RAM- KINGSTON HyperX Series 184-pin 512MB DDR434 (PC3500) DDR RAM modules, Model# KHX3500/512- 2 PIECES

Motherboard- ABIT IC7, Intel 875P chipset for Socket 478 P4 Canterwood ATX motherboard RETAIL

Processor- Intel Pentium 4 / 2.8CGHz 512k socket 478 Hyper Threading Technology 800 MHz FSB - RETAIL

Sound Card- CREATIVE LABS SOUND BLASTER AUDIGY WITH 1394 - OEM

Speakers- Logitech Z640 5.1 Speaker - RETAIL

Video Card- ATI OEM SAPPHIRE RADEON 9800 128MB Non Pro DVI/TV 8X AGP BULK


So What do you guys think of that setup?? Ive got a few questions/concerns that if you guys could answer, i would appreciate it.


1. With that case, will i be good to overclock my proc some?? i plan on running my processor 1:1 with some good 3500 or 3700 ram.

2. I heard the logitech cordless mx duo was really good, but i also saw some posts saying it lagged....now for 85$ for a keyboard and mouse, i want it to be something i can use for a loooong time...if the mx duo isnt that good, is there some other keyboard/mouse i should get?

3. About my RAM...i plan to run 1:1 with the ram and overclock a little...is this ram good? or is there some better 3500/3700 ram i should get?? Also, how much performance is really lost with loose timings?? cuz i was looking at some PC3700 buffalo ram, is that good?

4. Just point out anything you would change, or anything that is not compatible with eachother.



Sorry, this is sorta a really long post with lotsa questions...but you guys on these boards are really smart, so thanks to anyone who answers
 
- Get a 430W TruePower, trust me, you'll need that amount of power if you want to overclock.
- Kingston HyperX PC3500 is very good. From the PC3500 roundup I've read, Mushkin comes in first place where Corsair and Kingston share the second, and Kingston favours Corsair in low latency overclocking.
- You are not using ECC RAM, and according to your setup, you don't seem to badly need the extra features on Canterwood chipset, why not try the Springdale chipset? MSI Neo2 is a good one. My friend is going to build an Intel system based on this mobo.
- If you want Creative sound card, you should get Audigy2 for much better sound quality. If not, there are many other better sound card option, try to search the sound card forum for more info.
- If you are looking at cordless keyboard/mouse combo, I really can't think of anything else can be better than Logitech and it's 5-year warranty. But remember that, input devices are the component you use most on your system, you have to actually feel them to see if you like them or not. So go to some retail shop and have a test on them before you buy them :) The same applies to speaker.
- My $0.02


If I agree with you... will you shut up?
<A HREF="http://www.anandtech.com/mysystemrig.html?id=22996" target="_new">My System Rig</A>
 
One heck of a puter your buying. I agree with TKH said you should change. I bought HyperX PC 3500 at Best BUY. They had it on sale last week for $120 I bought two 512. Do you have a montior? Also what OS are you using?
 
The Antec Sonata is a great case! :) It has two minor flaws though: 1) The power supply isn't so stunning if you're building a power-hungry PC. 2) For at least some of them the front-panel audio cable labels don't match the instructions. There is a correction to the instructions for the audio cable in a FAQ on Antec's website though, and you can always buy a bigger power supply should the system be unstable with just the True380.

That aside, the Sonata is a great case. I absolutely love mine. I just hope that some day Antec makes a slightly larger SOHO file-server version of the Sonata with a True480 (or better) power supply.

Anywho, here are my suggestions:
1) Unless you have a serious reason for the Audigy, save a little money and ditch the Audigy all together. Just get a mobo with onboard 5.1 sound. (Most 865s and 875s do.) If you just want the firewire port, get a mobo with onboard firewire. There are plenty out there. My Asus P4P800 Deluxe has great 5.1 sound and firewire. :)

2) Get a motherboard with a large fanlesss northbridge. (Such as the Asus P4P800 boards.) The air flow in the Sonata is <b>so</b> good that a large fanless northbridge will run cooler than a low-profile fanned northbridge, and it'll be quieter.

3) Since you're OCing <i>definately</i> get an extra 120mm case fan to put on the 'front'. (And I use that term loosely because in the Sonata the 'front' fan is actually located between the hard drive bay and the motherboard, so it's more like a middle fan.) A nice Antec 120mm Smartfan will do. (It's what I'm using.) Or if you want control of the RPMs instead of an automated by temperature system, go with something like an Enermax 120mm fan with speed control.

4) If you plan on doing some <i>serious</i> OCing and don't care about noise then also get a good 120mm fan to replace the Sonata's stock 120mm exhaust fan. The 120mm fan that comes with the Sonata is low RPM. It's very quiet, but you can definately find 120mm fans that will move more air if quiet isn't your thing.

5) If you're really into trying something fun, try moving the 'front' fan up by using only the top two mounts on the case and the bottom two holes in the fan. (I'd highly suggest doing this with a nut and bolt instead of Antec's rubber thingies or even standard case fan screws if you try it.) This puts the airflow from it a heck of a lot closer to the CPU and RAM. I haven't tried it yet myself because I don't have a reason to, but it could make a difference when OCing. (Especially if you take one of the floppy bay covers off and leave the front panel open for a nice big front intake vent.)

"<i>Yeah, if you treat them like equals, it'll only encourage them to think they <b>ARE</b> your equals.</i>" - Thief from <A HREF="http://www.nuklearpower.com/daily.php?date=030603" target="_new">8-Bit Theater</A>
 
Ive heard the intel stock heatsink is good...and im not doing major overclocking..just like 1:1 with pc3500 ram...thats like 2.8-3.0 not much..
 
pc3700 is not worth the money...pc3500 will do pc3700 speeds at $hitty timmings....

If you are only overclocking to 3.0...cooling is not a very big concern...

Slvr...what do you have against antec 380 watt ps's i think that should be fine for this system...more than 450 is overkill IMO...considering they run modern dual cpu systems off of 500watters

So easy to fry yet tastes so good...
Silicon: The other, other, other white meat :evil:
 
Slvr...what do you have against antec 380 watt ps's i think that should be fine for this system.
Click to expand...
I don't have anything against Antec's True380. I love mine. I especially like the fan-only power connectors that get lower voltages when the temps are down so that the PC runs even quieter. It's great. :)

That aside, the Sonata's True380 only has one fan instead of two. Sure it has larger heat sinks to try and make up for it, but I don't know if you can trust it to press to the edge as well as a standard True380. **shrug** Only testing will tell. And as I said, the power supply can be updated <i>if</i> the stock True380 leaves things unstable. I never said that it <i>would</i> leave it unstable or that it was even likely to do so.

more than 450 is overkill IMO...considering they run modern dual cpu systems off of 500watters
Click to expand...
I can't completely agree. Recent graphics cards are real power hungry beasts, as are recent top-end processors. Combine that with people's penchance to have RAID arrays, extra fans, internal lights, and use up power in so many new ways that many times a large power supply is just good sense.

That aside, I've still seen a P4 2.8GHz on an i845PE mobo with 512MB RAM, a CD ROM, a DVD burner, and a hard drive all running on a 200W power supply and it's extremely stable. If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes, I'd never have believed it.

But still, the less W that a power supply uses out of its maximum rating the cooler it runs. So overkill is useful when OCing, building a 'silent' PC, and/or building a PC for warm climates.

"<i>Yeah, if you treat them like equals, it'll only encourage them to think they <b>ARE</b> your equals.</i>" - Thief from <A HREF="http://www.nuklearpower.com/daily.php?date=030603" target="_new">8-Bit Theater</A>
 
the top of the line dells come with less than 250...they are stable...

I still stand by the 380...as long as we are sticking to this build...sure other scenarios might require 450...but this one is 350-400 IMO...

So easy to fry yet tastes so good...
Silicon: The other, other, other white meat :evil:
 
I still stand by the 380...as long as we are sticking to this build...sure other scenarios might require 450...but this one is 350-400 IMO...
Click to expand...
I agree. In fact I never once said that it wasn't. For <i>this</i> build the True 380 will probably be fine, but <i>if</i> not then the power supply can always be upgraded afterwords. That's all that I ever said.

"<i>Yeah, if you treat them like equals, it'll only encourage them to think they <b>ARE</b> your equals.</i>" - Thief from <A HREF="http://www.nuklearpower.com/daily.php?date=030603" target="_new">8-Bit Theater</A>
 
That system is almost identical to the one I'm building! Tell me how it goes.

I know Antec cases look really cool, but I got an amazing case from Maxtop that is an overlocker's dream.
-2 Rear 80mm Fans both @ 40cfm
-1 120mm fan on the side blowing on the CPU
-1 Blowhole fan that is 1/2 inch away from my PSU,also 120mm
-1 80mm intake fan, YS-Tech brand pumping 49cfm,blows on HD
-Easy to use also, removable m-board tray, front USB

Cost only about $50 U.S. @ newegg.com! It also looks decent too. Threw in a 400watt Powmax PSU and I'm set! (figured I could get away w/ a cheaper brand b/c i'm only using 1 HD and one CDROM).

Although I might have to dig into the piggy-bank and replace the PSU with a better brand PSU, my current Case and PSU setup only cost about $75!

<font color=red>Crack Addict=Baaaaad </font color=red>
<font color=green>THG Addict=Goooooood </font color=green>
<A HREF="http://www.tylersite.8k.com/photo.html " target="_new">http://www.tylersite.8k.com/photo.html </A>
 
NO...that was not the point...i am saying that if dells can run stably with a 250 watter 380 should take care of this just fine...


So easy to fry yet tastes so good...
Silicon: The other, other, other white meat :evil:
 
I got the logitech navigator duo. I ended up buying the MX 700 mouse later. It is a BIG improvement to the one that came with the duo. I would reccomend buying the keyboard and mouse seperatly. It will cost more but will be less than buying a better mouse later.
 
Thanks for the input guys...and yea i tyhink ill stick with the 380 psu for now...i think it will work fine.

Also, im gonna check out that maxtop case...it sounds nice...but is it noisy??
 
The case can be noisy... or not.
It all depends on what YOU put in it.
Stick to low speed casefans and low to medium speed CPU fans nd you should be allright.


<b><i>"Why don't you try practicing random acts of intelligence and senseless acts of self-control?"</b></i> 😱
 
could some1 give me a link to that cas.e...maybe im just stupid but icant seem to find that same case...the maxtop one by the way
 
i been thinking about the sonata and the psu and stuff, so i was looking around newegg and how would this do

this kingwin case:

Kingwin (BLACK) All Aluminum 10-Bay Mid tower case, with a Large Side Window. KT-424-BK-WM Specifications:
2.00mm aluminum thickness.
Anti-shock absorber system for hard.drives.
Dimensions: 20"(D) x 8.6"(W) x 17.7"(H).
Drive Bays 4 x 5.25" - 2x 3.5" - 4 x 3.5" (Hidden)
Material: Aluminum Alloy
3 x 80mm Case Fans.
2 USB + 1 Firewire Ports at front.
NO POWER SUPPLY. Retail. Model#: KT-424-BK-WM

and an Allied 450W PSU

The PSU seems kinda cheep for a 450W PSU, anybody tried or heard anything about it? Is it quiet? anything pretty much
 
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