Question 1720 Smart drive imminent failure

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Aug 2, 2017
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Got a family member with an HP desktop with windows 10 that is about 3 years old. He has started to have issues with it. It will boot up to windows, although a little slow and will run for about 10 minutes or so then get a blue screen, then goes to black screen with message saying 1720-smart drive detects imminent failure, failing drive SATA0(dark blue), failing attribute: 00. There is option to press f1 to boot and it will continue to windows and will load up but keeps repeating same process over.

The hard drive is a 2.5 ssd 512gb Hajaan brand. Did a chkdsk on it, when it first started several things came up saying corrupt. But it crashed before it was able to finish. Checked the temps and was normal. When I first checked t ask manager, disk usage was showing 100% but crashed before I was able to see what was causing that. After it restarted, went down to around 50%. Guessing that 1720 message means the drive is bad or can that mean something else? Have not attempted to reinstall windows thinking it will not be able to come close to finishing. Not concerned about the files on there as they have already been backed up previously.
 
Can you show us the SMART report with a tool such as CrystalDiskInfo or GSmartControl?

I removed the drive from the computer and currently have it hooked up to one of my computers but not booting from it. Do I need to show the smart report with it running as the boot drive? I downloaded crystaldisk and it shows good health for the drive. Currently running a error scan using the windows tool and it shows 30 minutes left, not sure typically how long the scan should take. Now its showing 1 hour and 15 minutes.
 
If the drive were to die right now...are you 100% prepared?
Full reinstall, or recovery from a full drive backup.

Yes, already have the data backed up. So not a problem doing a full reinstall. But thinking if the hard drive is the issue, it would not be able to complete the reinstall of windows. But if have to buy a new drive, not entirely sure about transferring windows license from current install to new install.
 
Yes, already have the data backed up. So not a problem doing a full reinstall. But thinking if the hard drive is the issue, it would not be able to complete the reinstall of windows. But if have to buy a new drive, not entirely sure about transferring windows license from current install to new install.
I meant on a new drive.

A reinstall on a new drive, in this same system, incurs no OS license issue.
It will activate itself after the install is complete and it goes online.

No different than a reinstall on this same drive.
 
I meant on a new drive.

A reinstall on a new drive, in this same system, incurs no OS license issue.
It will activate itself after the install is complete and it goes online.

No different than a reinstall on this same drive.

I always get confused on the licensing part, keep forgetting that its usually tied to hardware. If it comes to it, will get a new drive and install windows from a thumb drive. After thinking, correct me if I am thinking wrong, can install the drive back in his system, try to reinstall windows and see what happens. He really doesn't have any programs to worry about, whatever he does have can be downloaded from internet.
 
I always get confused on the licensing part, keep forgetting that its usually tied to hardware. If it comes to it, will get a new drive and install windows from a thumb drive. After thinking, correct me if I am thinking wrong, can install the drive back in his system, try to reinstall windows and see what happens. He really don't have any programs to worry about, whatever he does have can be downloaded from internet.
The key thing here is...is that original drive failing?
A fresh OS install won't fix a physically failing drive.
 
The key thing here is...is that original drive failing?
A fresh OS install won't fix a physically failing drive.

That is what I am trying to find out. Does that message absolute certain mean the drive is failing? If it does and have to buy a new drive, what could it hurt to try a reinstall of windows on the current drive or well that mess up the license somehow? Well besides time.
 
There are problems in 05, A0, B2, C4, C5, C6. The drive is encountering read errors and is replacing bad blocks with spares.

This is with it hooked up in a different computer as a secondary drive, just guessing but would those numbers be worse if it was running as boot drive? Don't guess it matters as it seems the drive needs to be replaced either way.
 
One number that caught my attention is the power on hours, 21k, This is just for my curiosity and maybe a false reading but this computer was bought about 3 years ago, it was renewed when it was bought. So not sure how old it is. But that power on hours seems awfully high. The current owner does not use it that much at all, doesn't use it everyday by any means. I have an i7-920 system that I built new can't recall how long ago and it only shows around 9k power on hours. I know this really doesn't matter, just got me curious
Guess the computer is older than I realized, the cpu it has was released in 2012.
 
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Is there a manufacture date on the label?

Is the drive still within warranty? If not, open it up and upload detailed photos of the PCB. I should be able to infer the age of the drive from the date codes on the ICs.

FWIW, here is a Kingston SA400S37 240GB SSD with the same firmware version (911XKR):

https://smarthdd.com/database/KINGSTON-SA400S37-240G/911XKR/

I found no other reference to this firmware, not even for other examples of the same Kingston model.
 
Have the drive back in original computer. In the bios, there is an option to run DPS self test which I did that and it passed.

I hooked up a different sata cable just to rule that out and still crashed. One thing I noticed is if I let windows load up and don't do anything, open any programs or anything, it will not crash. I let it just sit there and 30 minutes later, still no crash. As soon as I tried to open a program, it crashed.

@fzabkar, I have not looked for a date on the label yet but will. Highly doubt it is still in warranty. Don't think I will open it up at least until I get a new drive, can still load windows if needed. After doing a DPS self test, some info popped up about the drive. It has the same firmware as you listed.
View: https://imgur.com/Bk54waP
 
The serial number looks like a date -- 2019 / 11 / 22 / 0101.

I thought the same thing but I highly doubt that is the manufacture date. That means when he bought the computer, the drive was brand new. I can say for sure he did not put 21k hours on that drive in 3 years.

I tried to do a reinstall of windows and after it restarted the first time from when I started the reinstall process from windows, it crashed but was still able to boot back into windows. I got a new drive on the way.
 
Got the the ssd installed and windows 10 installed as well. So far have not noticed any issues, no crashes at least. I ran crystaldisk on the new drive and seen a few things that seem kind of odd. First, the temp is exactly the same as the old one. Second is the smart data it shows. All the current worst and threshold numbers are the same as the old drive. The raw values are different as in lower on the new drive. Should the current, worst and threshold values be different?
 
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