Well, I agree, but there IS still Aris, who does reviews for both Tom's hardware and TechpowerUP. Then there is Taz, doing reviews for the JonnyGuru site since Oklahoma Wolf has now retired. Beyond that there are three people including Ryan Smith doing in depth PSU reviews at Anandtech. Paul Johnson who was the PSU editor at HardOCP for 12 years, is now over at The FPS review which has a lot of the old HardOCP cast and crew.
Allan Campbell over at Kitguru does a passable in depth review, although I wouldn't put the reviews on that site at the level of Aris, they are certainly far more than unboxing and software readings reviews.
Tweaktown's doesn't have an acceptable reviewer. Techspot either. Bit-tech also does a passable review, although that seems to be more of a team effort than any individual's. That's just the ones that I personally appreciate. There are certainly others, some of which are halfway decent but are in other languages, so I usually don't bother with them because I prefer to not read Google translates version that often comes out more like "This ham sandwich definitely has gold teeth on the backside, but we feel like the performance can smell like sand." They are out there though, and some of them are VERY adept, as evidenced by any conversation on the JohnnyGuru forum where you see JonnyGuru (Founder), The Mask, Orion, Philipus II and others there.
I'm certainly not one of them, but I absolutely pay attention and lurk a great deal when it comes to this particular component.