[SOLVED] a brand new id cooling auraflow 240 pump stopped working for no reason

[jaimd]

i have this aio first time and brand new that for some odd reason the pump stopped working and even in 2 minutes of usages got my temps over 100 degree celsious until my pc shut it self down, when i opened the case my dad touched the tubes slightly and my pump went from N/A to 900 rpm why was my pump not working? was that an air bubble? does that mean taht it could happen again? how i could prevent that? or it was because other unknown reason? any advice?

 

[jaimd]

i need help, today it happened again, my pump didnt worked until i moved a few times the pipes please need help

 

[Phaaze88]

Sounds like a clog, and moving the pipes loosened it up.
Can you take a pic of the inside of the chassis, to where we can see the inside - AIO and other case fans?

Use imgur.com or something similar.

 

[Paperdoc]

I doubt you are dealing with a clog. On several occasions the pump did not start by itself, but a small mechanical movement of tubing caused it to start and keep running. That may be a faulty pump, or you may have made an error in its power connections.

Let's try checking the power idea first. From what I can see on-line this system comes with a PUMP that has two cables - one ending in a 3-pin standard fan connector, and another ending in a wider 4-pin plain RGB connector. Similarly the rad fans come with two cables each, one for fan motor and one for plain RGB lights. It also comes with a fan Splitter to let you connect both fans to a single mobo header, and with a RGB Splitter, I believe, to connect all the lighting cables to your mobo's 4-pin plain RGB header. From the cooling perspective, the design is that the pump should always have a full 12 VDC power supply so it always runs full speed, and the rad FANS are the items whose speeds are adjusted automatically by their mobo header.

You have not told us what mobo you have, and that would help us give more precise advice. What is the maker and exact model number of your mobo? Also tell us exactly which mobo fan headers you have plugged in the PUMP unit and the rad FANS with Splitter.

The motor cable from the PUMP is a 3-pin one, I believe - it has 3 holes in it. Right? It needs to be connected to the CPU_FAN header ideally so that its speed signal can be monitored for failure. If you do that, then the CPU_FAN header needs to be configured to use the new PWM Mode, and not the older Voltage Control Mode or DC Mode. This trick uses a quirk of the fan type mis-match - when you plug an older 3-pin fan (or pump) into a header using PWM Mode, that fan (or pump) will always run full speed, which is exactly what you need.

That leaves us to figure out where to plug in the rad fans, which ideally also should be plugged into that same CPU_FAN header, since that header uses the temperature sensor inside the CPU chip to guide its control system. There is a way to do that, but some mobos also have an additional header called something like CPU_OPT which does use that same sensor and can be used for these rad fans. So what your mobo details are affects exactly how to do this. Another important factor we need to know is the FAN motor connector on the two rad fans - does it end in a connector with 3 holes or 4?

Post back with answers to those questions and we can complete the advice for how it should be connected. After than we'll know whether that solves it, or whether you may have a faulty pump.

 

[jaimd]

Sounds like a clog, and moving the pipes loosened it up.
Can you take a pic of the inside of the chassis, to where we can see the inside - AIO and other case fans?

Use imgur.com or something similar.

yeah hang on a second i will take a picture, my apartment is very small so i will try to take the screenshot the best i can, i tried to ,ake the best possible cable management so i dont know if by any chance i didnt got the pump cable well put but i dont know

 

[jaimd]

here is a picture of my case, excluding the fact i put my leds in one of the radiator backwards it doesnt bother me to have inverted colours

imgur.com/a/04Zu0EY

 

[jaimd]

I doubt you are dealing with a clog. On several occasions the pump did not start by itself, but a small mechanical movement of tubing caused it to start and keep running. That may be a faulty pump, or you may have made an error in its power connections.

Let's try checking the power idea first. From what I can see on-line this system comes with a PUMP that has two cables - one ending in a 3-pin standard fan connector, and another ending in a wider 4-pin plain RGB connector. Similarly the rad fans come with two cables each, one for fan motor and one for plain RGB lights. It also comes with a fan Splitter to let you connect both fans to a single mobo header, and with a RGB Splitter, I believe, to connect all the lighting cables to your mobo's 4-pin plain RGB header. From the cooling perspective, the design is that the pump should always have a full 12 VDC power supply so it always runs full speed, and the rad FANS are the items whose speeds are adjusted automatically by their mobo header.

You have not told us what mobo you have, and that would help us give more precise advice. What is the maker and exact model number of your mobo? Also tell us exactly which mobo fan headers you have plugged in the PUMP unit and the rad FANS with Splitter.

The motor cable from the PUMP is a 3-pin one, I believe - it has 3 holes in it. Right? It needs to be connected to the CPU_FAN header ideally so that its speed signal can be monitored for failure. If you do that, then the CPU_FAN header needs to be configured to use the new PWM Mode, and not the older Voltage Control Mode or DC Mode. This trick uses a quirk of the fan type mis-match - when you plug an older 3-pin fan (or pump) into a header using PWM Mode, that fan (or pump) will always run full speed, which is exactly what you need.

That leaves us to figure out where to plug in the rad fans, which ideally also should be plugged into that same CPU_FAN header, since that header uses the temperature sensor inside the CPU chip to guide its control system. There is a way to do that, but some mobos also have an additional header called something like CPU_OPT which does use that same sensor and can be used for these rad fans. So what your mobo details are affects exactly how to do this. Another important factor we need to know is the FAN motor connector on the two rad fans - does it end in a connector with 3 holes or 4?

Post back with answers to those questions and we can complete the advice for how it should be connected. After than we'll know whether that solves it, or whether you may have a faulty pump.

yeah my bad i have a b450 aorus motherboard i have connected my pump into the sys_fan2 that was the one i had to connect it to? and i connected my radiator to my cpu fan so my radiator have a variable speed

 

[jaimd]

should i take a front shot of my case? it is a cooler master mx 520 rgb or something like that, the 3 front fans i have it connected to my psu and the back fan to my sys_fan1

 

[Phaaze88]

It's mounted as top exhaust... the tubing has some slack - I don't see any kinks or pinch-points...
There's only 3 headers: 2x system and 1 cpu.

The pump is plugged into the cpu header? Does swapping to one of the system headers help?
The plugs aren't coming loose during operation, by any chance?

After checking reviews of this device, you may have come across a lemon.
I'd wait and see what @Paperdoc or someone else has to say first.

 

[jaimd]

i have my pump connected to the sys_fan2 header of my mobo and the radiator fans into cpu_fan

 

[jaimd]

It's mounted as top exhaust... the tubing has some slack - I don't see any kinks or pinch-points...
There's only 3 headers: 2x system and 1 cpu.

The pump is plugged into the cpu header? Does swapping to one of the system headers help?
The plugs aren't coming loose during operation, by any chance?

After checking reviews of this device, you may have come across a lemon.
I'd wait and see what @Paperdoc or someone else has to say first.

what does means having some slacks? im from latin america and i dont know all english words, and could be a problem that my tubes go further than my case? i mean sticking out my case when i open the left panel?

 

[Phaaze88]

what does means having some slacks? im from latin america and i dont know all english words, and could be a problem that my tubes go further than my case?

Sorry!
By slack, I meant like, the part of a rope, line, or cable which is not held tight.
The tubing isn't pinched or crammed into a corner of the chassis that would otherwise cripple the flow rate of the liquid in the AIO.

i have my pump connected to the sys_fan2 header of my mobo and the radiator fans into cpu_fan

Does swapping them change anything, or does the pump still suddenly cut off?

 

[Paperdoc]

If you do not need that SYS_FAN2 header for a case fan, it can do the job, although you will NOT have the close monitoring of that pump for failure. BUT you MUST check a setting for that header in BIOS Setup because I expect it needs to be changed. See your mobo manual at the top of p. 21 where it tells you how to enter BIOS Setup. That gets you to the Main Menu (p. 22) where you click on M.I.T. (top left) and see p. 23. Click on Smart Fan 5 Settings, and see details on p. 25 and 26. You must choose the SYS_FAN2 header to examine. For that one, look at the item for Fan Control Mode. I expect it is set to Auto. In that setting, it tests the item plugged into it (your pump) and finds that it will respond to speed control signals in the older Voltage Control Mode, and is using that to control the speed of your pump, thinking it is really a FAN that is cooling the CASE, which is cool on start-up. So it is trying to make that "fan" run slowly, and that low voltage is not enough to start the pump running. Change that setting to PWM Mode, then use Esc to back out to the Main Menu, then the F10 key to get to the Save and Exit Menu (p.37). Click on the first choice, Save and Exit Setup. This will save your new setting and reboot your machine. When it comes up, the pump should be running at full speed right away, and stay that way always.

IF you want to make use of the CPU_FAN header's ability to check the pump for failure (right now it is checking the rad fans for failure), post back here for a different way to connect those items.

 

[jaimd]

If you do not need that SYS_FAN2 header for a case fan, it can do the job, although you will NOT have the close monitoring of that pump for failure. BUT you MUST check a setting for that header in BIOS Setup because I expect it needs to be changed. See your mobo manual at the top of p. 21 where it tells you how to enter BIOS Setup. That gets you to the Main Menu (p. 22) where you click on M.I.T. (top left) and see p. 23. Click on Smart Fan 5 Settings, and see details on p. 25 and 26. You must choose the SYS_FAN2 header to examine. For that one, look at the item for Fan Control Mode. I expect it is set to Auto. In that setting, it tests the item plugged into it (your pump) and finds that it will respond to speed control signals in the older Voltage Control Mode, and is using that to control the speed of your pump, thinking it is really a FAN that is cooling the CASE, which is cool on start-up. So it is trying to make that "fan" run slowly, and that low voltage is not enough to start the pump running. Change that setting to PWM Mode, then use Esc to back out to the Main Menu, then the F10 key to get to the Save and Exit Menu (p.37). Click on the first choice, Save and Exit Setup. This will save your new setting and reboot your machine. When it comes up, the pump should be running at full speed right away, and stay that way always.

IF you want to make use of the CPU_FAN header's ability to check the pump for failure (right now it is checking the rad fans for failure), post back here for a different way to connect those items.

So if that menu you are saying and change that value to the sys_fan2 to PWM doesnt fix my issue i should swap them to cpu_fan and vice versa? And how could i control the radiator fans then? Could that mean that the pump and the radiators wil be working at full speeds? Since sys_fan2 doesnt have the 4 pin for speed control. Or at least whst my poor sight told me. Tomorrow i will check those settings and report bsck here. Thanks for the help! But it is weird that i have been using this cooler for over a month and i didnt had this issues at all thats why im wondering what is happening

 

[Paperdoc]

If that does not work there are a couple of other ways to try, so don't go swapping things around yet. Let's see what happens when you make that one change I suggested, and report back here. I believe the SYS_FAN2 header DOES have 4 pins, but if you verify it does NOT, let us know.

Why is it a new problem? What I suspected as soon as I saw your story is that the pump is not getting enough voltage to start up reliably, but does start when it is bumped. And that is because the fan header it is powered from is sending it reduced voltage for reduce cooling, and that should never be done with a pump. I think it is new just because the recent temperatures are a little cooler, and this has pushed the voltage down slightly more so it crossed the line from barely enough to start, down to will not start.

 

[jaimd]

hi!

If you do not need that SYS_FAN2 header for a case fan, it can do the job, although you will NOT have the close monitoring of that pump for failure. BUT you MUST check a setting for that header in BIOS Setup because I expect it needs to be changed. See your mobo manual at the top of p. 21 where it tells you how to enter BIOS Setup. That gets you to the Main Menu (p. 22) where you click on M.I.T. (top left) and see p. 23. Click on Smart Fan 5 Settings, and see details on p. 25 and 26. You must choose the SYS_FAN2 header to examine. For that one, look at the item for Fan Control Mode. I expect it is set to Auto. In that setting, it tests the item plugged into it (your pump) and finds that it will respond to speed control signals in the older Voltage Control Mode, and is using that to control the speed of your pump, thinking it is really a FAN that is cooling the CASE, which is cool on start-up. So it is trying to make that "fan" run slowly, and that low voltage is not enough to start the pump running. Change that setting to PWM Mode, then use Esc to back out to the Main Menu, then the F10 key to get to the Save and Exit Menu (p.37). Click on the first choice, Save and Exit Setup. This will save your new setting and reboot your machine. When it comes up, the pump should be running at full speed right away, and stay that way always.

IF you want to make use of the CPU_FAN header's ability to check the pump for failure (right now it is checking the rad fans for failure), post back here for a different way to connect those items.

THANKS!!! IT WORKED! thank you! i didnt knew that! not it went from 1000 rpm the pump or from N/A to rocking 2000 rpm thanks! now it works like it should! i was blessed to not destroy my cpu in a full month of use! how the <Mod Edit> i didnt destroyed my cpu or anything else i have no idea now the next time i assemble a new system i will know this! thanks dude!

 

[lucas beaumont]

i have my pump plugged into the cha_fan1 and have gone into bios and changed the rpm to 2000 and it is still not working. I have tried plugging it into the cpu_fan and aio_pump too and it still wont turn on, could I have got a defective aio?

 

[Paperdoc]

That depends on the AIO sytem you have. Some get pump power from the CPU_FAN or a PUMP header, but some require a connection to a PSU output. Tell us exactly what maker and model number of AIO system you have. Also tell us maker and model of your mobo.