Vineet Rughwani :
Hey all..
First time in here and I hope i don't mess it up .
Well below are the few parts I have my mind set on. Im building this pc for gaming and simple office works used at home tho.
mobo : asus maximus VI hero
CPU : intel i7 4770k
GPU : GTX 560 ti ( already have this )
RAM :
CASING :
Well I'm looking for a good casing not too pricy which has good airflow and spacious if ever I wanna upgrade or add parts in the future. Please advise if I should get a watercool ready case?
I would really appreciate some inputs on some builds or if my mobo is too less or cpu too high for gaming ? Need ideas for other parts which I haven't input yet.
The games I'm going to play COD ghosts Diablo titanfall etc.
regarding storage. Ive been reading and mostly users are recommending a SSD storage .. im just confused whether this is used for the OS and games or just the games. As I was looking for a 1TB hdd.. please advise as a 120gb storage just wont suffice.
I apologize for my poor english and if anything isnt clear.. hehe please help. Going to shop day after
Your english is pretty good, but I believe grammar nazi's should be shot unless I'm being GRADED or something...LOL It's good enough for me IF I can fully understand your points and I do so don't apologize. Nazi's go away
I would not listen to anyone telling you to buy an AMD cpu if you already have a budget that can afford a $200 board and $340 cpu (you're clearly not broke or wouldn't consider the 2 parts you chose). I'm assuming you are planning to overclock with a 4770K and that board choice. So check out this for COD Ghosts to see how badly AMD hurts in the OP's comment on FX6300.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/call-of-duty-ghosts-pc-performance,3683-10.html
Do you want an AMD 28% perf hit for $220 off cpu (far worse in some games)? 4770k at even 3.9ghz will beat this old 2500k model even at 4.2ghz they OC'ed it to so it's worse than shown here vs. AMD. This gets worse later every time you upgrade your GPU too as the cpu then is able to run all out and Intel dominates more and you won't get much more than an fx8350 as an upgrade on AMD's side so you're never going to get much faster. But you would be able to pop in a Broadwell K 14nm on S1150. Neither side has much of an upgrade path, but if I was going to chop anything off the cpu I'd drop to i5-4670. Save that money ($120?) for a maxwell 20nm later this year and ride your GTX 560TI until then sell it for $50-100 ($160 on google shopping right now new) and you got more towards a 20nm card. GTX 560 TI is fine probably for Titanfall (source engine not too demanding I'd think) and Diablo 3 is seen here as fine with anything above GTX 460 for even 2560x1600.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/diablo-iii-performance-benchmark,3195-5.html
Lowest price on a GTX 660 is $189 at newegg. So saving $220 on a cpu will not dominate your 560TI. You'll have to add more to that, and you'd be far better off waiting for 20nm which should be a HUGE increase in performance over 28nm.
But people forget you have to live with that cpu decision for ages if you go AMD and a ton of games are FAR slower on AMD, while buying Intel is far faster and OC'ed to 4.5+ etc is a nice boost one day when you say it's slow (sure AMD OC's too, but clock for clock Intel is faster already so both OC'ed to the same will get more on INTEL). You probably won't need a new cpu before your board dies or you want a cpu in a different socket at say 10nm) if you buy 4770k.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/neverwinter-performance-benchmark,3495-9.html
FX8350 even vs. old ivy i5-3550 here blown away, so haswell 4770K would eat this for breakfast. I can show game after game with 25%+ deficits.
"Only Intel's Core i5-3550 demonstrates a significantly better result, and we have to assume that higher-end Core processors are really what it takes to let AMD's single-GPU flagship achieve its best showing."
So 4770k will really up the ante as they assume correctly even here for 7970. So maxwell will even benefit more vs. 8350/6300 which are pretty similar. No point in buying AMD unless you're broke, which your cpu/board picks & WATER mention say you aren't AMD style broke
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/crysis-3-performance-benchmark-gaming,3451-8.html
ivy i5-3550 again stomping AMD's FX8350 which again is slower than 4770K obviously so in Crysis 3 expect AMD be blown away even more than IVY here at 31fps vs AMD 21fps. OUCH, not playable at 1080p on AMD with mins like 21fps.
http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/2013-vga-gpgpu/06-Crysis-2-DirectX-9-B-Performance,2947.html
You can check other charts but as you see here you are pretty comparable to a GTX 660 regular which score almost identical in manyy cases. So you should be above 30fps in 1080p even in COD Ghosts as the toms link testing COD Ghosts shows (couple links up) where GTX 660 got 41fps min. Playable. You can easily limp to Maxwell etc (20nm is the important thing, pick either AMD or NV) on your GTX 560TI.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314
I wouldn't buy memory that is over 1.5v and 9-9-9-24 1600 (they have two heatsinks styles on GBRL or GBXL). I own these and Corsair also have Adata which ran great for year, and have sold many brands previously in business. If you know how to set manual timings you can get nearly anything to work barring compatibility issues that is - pick a brand you like. There is no need for anything faster and all you get buying those is overvolted or overclocked memory that is basically the same stuff as this just with a higher price. The point of the 1.5v (or even 1.35, but 1.5v is norm) WITH lower timings is that you can overclock it yourself then to much higher with looser timings anyway, which just ends with you back where DDR 2400 etc is anyway after overvolting it to 1.65 etc. No point in paying a memory maker to slap a faster label on it with reduced timings screwing you out of cash. You can find a great article below showing not much difference between tight 1333 and really loose DDR3 3000! At least when considering price $100 vs. $800 for 8GB, 8x more expensive for 10% or less? Only 2% in games or less with discrete on all their game tests. I would want faster ratings maybe with an APU but you're not going there and I still think you can OC/OVolt to get there for the most part usually without the cost:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7364/memory-scaling-on-haswell/7
Scaling article from 1333 to 3000.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226184
Another memory choice but 1.35v, so you can run here or 1.5v at 8-8-8-21 or maybe lower at 1600.
IF you don't have money for an SSD+HD you might think about just getting a hybrid Seagate or something 2TB is like $119 and will at least load games faster, level changes etc. You only install it once (WRITE which full SSD are good at), but you load it (READ-hybrid works good here) many times over playing each game. 1TB at newegg (hybrid) is only $20 cheaper at $99, so why not go 2TB? $20 for twice the size I go 2TB.
LG Bluray burner is nice (I love mine, works great with imgburn etc), and works great with cheap discs like Optical Quantum OQBDR04LT-50 on amazon for $25 (nice price great quality burns with LG), and I've used hundreds of them, only one error with spot checking a ton of them and I had pars on that disc anyway...LOL. Playing a movie wouldn't be affected as they just play through usually (artifact on screen maybe but that's about it).
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136250
$68 or $8 more for 16x but pointless, you'd rather save cash with 4x unless you burn all day but even 6x were ok for me and only a few bucks more.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VS8VA8/ref=gno_cart_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1LUEAWPR8WQ6
If you have money for a 2nd drive I don't use my bluray burner for much more than burning, rarely reading and games are installed then cracked to avoid discs if needed (gamecopyworld etc). Don't want to wear out your $70 burner when you can buy $20 dvd player that covers most game discs. Liteon, LG, Samsung, Asus etc all pretty good.
Other than that...Not many suggestions unless you tell more about what you need (do you need a monitor or not etc) and what you have that you can salvage from the old box. Casing is too much preference based for many (looks are important to some not to others and tastes vary greatly). I usually find a look I like then see if it fits my needs for cooling, drives etc in reviews.
PSU, I like alone (not part of the case) and fully believe in a HIGH quality part (this is NO place to skimp if OCing). I prefer PC Power & Cooling and my whole family has for years. ZERO dead and in 8yrs of selling them I had ONE go bad, but I'll not I never sold below a 350w which back then were the line between crap and REAL quality which they built their name on. I own a 750w silencer RED to match my vid card 5850 AMD, memory red also...LOL. I still have a 350 running in the family that was from over 10yrs ago...ROFL. Kept clean they seem to last forever (seasonic who makes them mostly, also great of course). My dad has an Seasonic X series 750 but would have probably went PCP&C except it was great price on seasonic at the time. I would rather have bought a better model with 1% regulation but they didn't have a red one when I bought (now seems turbocool are 1.5% but that's tight too, were 1% years ago, but most are 3%). These babies are ROCK solid with voltage that you won't even see budge in the bios etc even stressed and loaded out with drives etc while heavily OC'ed everywhere. They are nearly all marked far lower than their actual watts and are marked very conservative vs. real Peak. IE the 860 Turbocool hits 930w peak and still wouldn't crack. They are built for serious stress. My current one (750CF red) has been running since 2007 basically 24/7. Runs totally cool. I expect it to get me through my next PC probably if it's workable for broadwell and some board (crosses fingers...LOL). IF not I'll just plop it into my server or keep it as a backup. It was $90 on a great sale so I got my money out of it already. With these, if you have any issues you can almost guarantee you look at your PSU last. They are that good. People don't realize how much this boring part is worth in a STABLE build. I never had PC's come back over PSU's but I always pushed customers to high end models explaining WHY they are worth it and at worst went Enermax/Antec. I would not sell you a PC with a junk PSU. I was small and not capable of fixing tons of junk. I wanted to not see you again until your next build
That quality starts right here with the PSU. If they were too cheap for a great one, I'd pitch cheapening the case itself or something to get a better PSU in. Sometimes the difference between crap and Ok is just $20. My 2cents on PSU's (ok, a whole buck?
).
No need for watercooling usually, as a high end air cooler is tough to beat already. Again with your cpu/mb selection and talking water on top, I don't understand the other guy suggesting a cheapo AMD 6300 (or even FX 8350, both the same junk basically for games and for the poor only these days) to buy a slightly better gpu. i5-4670 and saving for Maxwell maybe OK, but AMD for cpu? Not with you already apparently being able to afford $540 for MB/CPU and knowing performance getting KILLED by Intel forever in these sockets. There is no such thing as cpu overkill BTW if you have the cash for whatever you want buy top end
Semi strapped for cash, drop to 4670 to allow future broadwell which AMD has no chance of catching without excavator (and maybe not then) and that won't be in the same socket as 8350/6300. You'd be buying a dead end, and AMD may not even make a performance desktop core next time, might go all APU only. Intel at least has a path to 14nm and who knows maybe 10nm.
One more point (or a few...LOL), if you don't plan to seriously overclock, you can go a little cheaper on the board and still hit 4.5ghz+ easily. IF you don't plan on buying dual gpus (never worth it to me, I'll wait for shrinks to get that power or better gpus), you can knock pretty much $100 off your board (still with ALL SOLID CAPS) which coupled with 4670 that's $220 saved for Maxwell etc 20nm gpus. Or if you'll have money later for a gpu anyway by xmas etc, you can get a lot of extra stuff for the $220 now (mem can come from this, burner too). OR you spend it on an SSD for the boot 240GB/256GB, and a HD for main storage so best of both worlds. I could go on and on...LOL. Happy hunting. I can't go back to HD as my boot drive now that I've experienced SSD (and I don't even have near the fastest - Crucial M4 128GB). I have a hybrid also for laptop and it really is quick (momentus 300gb) compared to a faster spinning 7200rpm (WD scorpion 120 if memory serves) with lower platter density. So a hybrid can make things seem quick overall in a pinch if you can't afford SSD/HD combo. I was impressed and the laptop got a major speed boost. Very easy to see it. Windows loads quick, games load quick. Only installs are kind of normal as regular HD would be.
Hope that helps, good luck.
Wish I had more time to answer these kinds of posts
🙁 Sorry if it's TLDR but hopefully it will benefit others too in similar buying situations. Hope this is all clear to you.