A safe build?

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popes2

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Apr 13, 2012
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Hello everyone! I just had a quick question before I complete my purchase at this time for a new pc I am building. Currently the specs I am planning are below:

ASRock X79 EXTREME7 LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL

Intel Core i7-3820

GIGABYTE GV-N570OC-13I Rev2.0 GeForce GTX 570

OCZ Agility 3 AGT3-25SAT3-120G 2.5" 120GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO

LG DVD Burner 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model GH24NS90 - OEM

ZALMAN Z9 Plus Black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W Modular High Performance Power Supply

an additional standard hard drive (looking into options)

My question is if the psu can handle all of these components, including at peak loads. I already purchased the psu so I am currently stuck with the option right now, though I heard it's a pretty good one for its type. I don't plan on using sli, adding any other graphics cards, and I will avoid overclocking if it will make a difference (if a psu of higher wattage is needed I can purchase one later), just everything listed above will be in the build. I just want to make sure the money I spend on this wont go to waste if a problem comes up. Thanks in advance for any help given!
 
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popes2

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Apr 13, 2012
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10,510
I am making this build as a future engineering station with some side video editing as a hobby. Some gaming will be done too, but that wont be the focus overall. Also I was thinking about the 1155 socket with IB or something around 2600k at first but I was informed that the 2011 will continue with upgrades later with the newer processors released and 1155 would stop supporting beyond IB. I don't know if it's true or not, but I want one that will manage future upgrades. I don't have a monitor yet (have purchased laptops up to this point), though I don't mind something simple for the time.
 
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obsama1

obsama1

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Feb 3, 2012
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For engineering/video editing, LGA 2011 isn't a bad choice. However, Intel will eventually disregard LGA 2011. AMD is better in that regard. They only have 4 sockets in the past decade, ans still support Am3. But, I digress. The 3820 is pretty good
 
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mortonww

mortonww

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May 27, 2009
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He's using it primarily as an engineering workstation and for video editing.

I guess I don't really know what your specific applications can use, but video editing can always use more, faster cores, so I think LGA 2011 is a good choice especially if you can upgrade to a 6 core ivy bridge E down the line. If your applications can use insane memory bandwidth, that's available too.

The PSU is okay, but you've got a 130 Watt chip and a 225 Watt graphics card, so it's cutting it really close. Let's just say 60 Watts for everything else (fans, drives), you're looking at 415 Watts. Not a lot of headroom, but will probably be okay. I would feel good about a Corsair TX 650 in that system. But you should be fine.
 
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popes2

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Apr 13, 2012
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I suppose if I have to I can look into trying to return the psu back to newegg (hasn't arrived yet) and look into something with more wattage, though i'm trying to cut costs as much as possible. The psu at $39.99 seemed like an awesome deal. Is there any reliable psu type I can look into that is budget price and would be considered safe over the 600w?

I saw a psu from azza on newegg that was $59.99, but after seeing the word "explode" in a review I thought it would be best to steer clear. The next best deal is a rosewill psu that seems to have some popularity priced at 84.99 after the coupon, are those any good? If there are any better deals I should go for please let me know and thanks for the help!
 
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popes2

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Apr 13, 2012
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So you feel that 750w would be plenty to cause no concern? If so then i'll go ahead and give this a go, thanks for the suggestion. By the way, how is newegg with returns? It's kind of my first time purchasing from them so i'm just curious as to what I would be dealing with returning the ocz psu.

Also I was looking into possible ways to cut costs and was wondering if this ram would be any good compared to the g skills I linked above:

Patriot G2 Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
 
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popes2

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Apr 13, 2012
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I mainly picked the graphics card I have since I was trying to stay within a budget of $1200 for the build. If the work that I do is more than what it is designed for then i'll look into another option later on. The build for now is temporarily going to be an entertainment/video editing type, but I am building it in prep for engineering design software down the road (a year at most)
 
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popes2

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Apr 13, 2012
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So a 750w corsair will be fine for my build? Also are the Patriot G2 ram worth getting for $20 cheaper than the g skill I listed above? There were a few sales on them that brought the price to a reasonable amount, roughly $70 compared to $89.99 for the g skill. I know G Skill is the favorite from what i've seen, but if patriot is decent and the price is worth it I don't mind getting them. Opinions?
 
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mortonww

mortonww

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750 is plenty. Stick with the g.skill RAM just for lower voltage. According to Intel, 1.5 Volts is the max for sandy bridge RAM. Is the short answer. Here's info on why the RAM voltage is important, though: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpus/2011/01/07/how-to-overclock-the-intel-core-i5-2500k/2

Memory Voltage: As with LGA1366 and LGA1156 CPUs, keep this value to within 0.5V of the VCCIO voltage to prevent long term damage to the CPU. By default, this is 1.1V, which means the 1.65V used by previous Intel DDR3 memory is still acceptable. However, more recent memory will be rated at 1.5V (or even 1.35V if you choose a low-voltage kit). Increasing the VCCIO voltage obviously gives you more overhead on your memory voltage (remember, add +0.5V at most or risk damaging your CPU).

Your call.
 
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popes2

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Apr 13, 2012
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Thanks for the info, I guess i'll just have to bite the bullet on the g skill then, for a build like this I should be focusing on better components anyways. Alright, now i'm on my last step, a good hard drive that will work as a secondary to the ssd I purchased. I can live with a minimum of 500gb just for storage, but it seems the 1tb drives get more attention with the sales. Are there any good recommendations for a hard drive? I'm hoping to keep the price below $100 if possible so I don't go too over budget. I know seagates tend to be cheap, but i've seen a good few fail with people I know, but it seems to be a risk with any drive. I've also seen "green" drives that state they consume less power, but are they worth getting? Thanks again for everything!
 
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popes2

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Apr 13, 2012
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That one looks like a good choice, i'm just hoping that maybe a hard drive sale will happen soon that can bring it down just a little more. I'll just keep an eye out for the time and see what happens for now. Thanks again for the help mortonww and everyone else for your input, this really helps relieve the shopping stress.
 
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popes2

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Apr 13, 2012
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Yeah I know where you are getting at with the OCZ ssd drives. It looked like the reviews of multiple sites came out good, but after buying the drive and doing a background check of the company it kind of makes me feel unsure of the product at this point. I might have to return that part too I suppose :-/.

I know of one more item I need to complete my build and it is wireless connectivity. Unfortunately the computer I am building is upstairs in the house so I can't really run a wire directly to it. Are there any good pci or pci-e cards that I could get for less than $30? I've known D-link, Linksys, and Netgear for a while, but not sure if there are any other brands that may be well known and good quality. These are two I found that seemed to have good reviews:

ASUS PCE-N15 Wireless Adapter IEEE 802.11b/g/n PCI Express 300/300Mbps Transfer/Receive Rate 64-bit WEP, 128-bit WEP, WPA2-PSK, WPA-PSK, WPS support

The next one seems to run through usb similar to a dongle from what i can tell so far, I assume it would be better going pci though right?

Rosewill RNX-N180UBE Wireless Adapter IEEE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 1T2R / 5 dBi External Antenna / Up to 300Mbps Wireless Download Data Rates 64/128-bit WEP (Hex & ASCII), WPA/WPA2, WPA(TKIP with IEEE 802.1x)/WPA2(AES with IEEE 802.1x)

Any opinions on these brands or suggested items in a comparable price range?
 
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