I’m working on my wife's Acer Aspire 3000 – specifically a 3004WLCi.
Initially, the problem seemed to be that the screen backlight was failing – either the backlight or the inverter. Symptoms were no always solid, behavior was not always predictable. After putzing with it, on and off, for a couple of weeks, I’ve concluded that the light and the inverter are fine. The real culprit seems to be the lid switch.
It appears that the lid switch often does not open when the lid is opened. This keeps the screen off. With increasing frequency, it also seems to cause the machine to hibernate unbidden.
I was hoping that the switch would be on an umbilicus, and that I could just disconnect it. No such luck. It appears to be soldered directly to the motherboard (surface mount).
I seriously considered chopping the switch out with a small pair of dikes, but it is not very accessible, and it would not be easy to do a good job of that.
My current plan is to remove the bezel and cut off the switch actuator, as close to the body of the switch as I can. Then, after affirming that the backlight comes on, I intend to put a droplet of CA on the actuator, in hopes of minimizing the chances of the switch actuating unintentionally.
Anybody have a better idea of how to deactivate the lid switch on this machine?
Thanks in advance,
Paul in East Troy WI
Initially, the problem seemed to be that the screen backlight was failing – either the backlight or the inverter. Symptoms were no always solid, behavior was not always predictable. After putzing with it, on and off, for a couple of weeks, I’ve concluded that the light and the inverter are fine. The real culprit seems to be the lid switch.
It appears that the lid switch often does not open when the lid is opened. This keeps the screen off. With increasing frequency, it also seems to cause the machine to hibernate unbidden.
I was hoping that the switch would be on an umbilicus, and that I could just disconnect it. No such luck. It appears to be soldered directly to the motherboard (surface mount).
I seriously considered chopping the switch out with a small pair of dikes, but it is not very accessible, and it would not be easy to do a good job of that.
My current plan is to remove the bezel and cut off the switch actuator, as close to the body of the switch as I can. Then, after affirming that the backlight comes on, I intend to put a droplet of CA on the actuator, in hopes of minimizing the chances of the switch actuating unintentionally.
Anybody have a better idea of how to deactivate the lid switch on this machine?
Thanks in advance,
Paul in East Troy WI