Question after playing 30 min my ups starts beeping.

[dhanhunter]

i have an issue regarding my gaming pc. when i play games like apex legend, pubg and other high end games after playing 30 min my UPS starts beeping for 3-5min and turned off. I have an elnova 1000kva Ups, 650w psu, i5 9600k, rtx 2060. So, please help me with my prblm.

 

[InvalidError]

I don't know about Elnova but with APC and other brands, beeping while AC power is available either means the battery is dying or the UPS is overloaded. An overload seems highly unlikely with an RTX2060 unless you have tons of extra stuff connected to the UPS, so I'm going to guess the UPS ended up using battery power for some reason (weak power grid?) and shut down when the battery ran out.

 

[dhanhunter]

I don't know about Elnova but with APC and other brands, beeping while AC power is available either means the battery is dying or the UPS is overloaded. An overload seems highly unlikely with an RTX2060 unless you have tons of extra stuff connected to the UPS, so I'm going to guess the UPS ended up using battery power for some reason (weak power grid?) and shut down when the battery ran out.

i dont

I don't know about Elnova but with APC and other brands, beeping while AC power is available either means the battery is dying or the UPS is overloaded. An overload seems highly unlikely with an RTX2060 unless you have tons of extra stuff connected to the UPS, so I'm going to guess the UPS ended up using battery power for some reason (weak power grid?) and shut down when the battery ran out.

is my ups ok with the 650w psu, gpu and cpu?........ BTW in my house voltage fluctuations can be seen.

 

[InvalidError]

A 1kVA UPS should be able to output 600-700W. An RTX2060 draws around 150W under full load, the rest of the system should be another 100W or so, add PSU losses and monitor, the total should be under 350W which would be well within the UPS' claimed rating.

If your local AC voltage is unstable, the UPS will be frequently switching on/off (can usually tell by relays clicking to re-route power between AC and inverter), the battery will deplete over time and run out eventually. In this case, you will either need to put an automatic voltage regulator between the AC outlet and the UPS in an attempt to narrow down the input range (ideally use a ferroresonant voltage regulator instead of a multi-tap auto-transformer) or upgrade to an online UPS which takes whatever AC input is available, converts it to battery voltage and then back to fixed AC for the output.

 

[dhanhunter]

thanks for your suggestions

 

[dhanhunter]

what type of stabilizer should i buy?

 

[InvalidError]

Most of what you will find under $100 or so is simple tap-changing auto-transformers, a tell-tale sign of which being the discrete voltage regulation steps such as -10%/+9%/+16%. Around $150, you may be able to find 1-4kVA electronic voltage regulators identifiable by their much narrower fixed voltage regulation range such as 120V +/- 3%. For ferroresonant or online-UPS, you'd have to pay significantly more and put up with lower efficiency.

 

[dhanhunter]

ok thanks...

 

[geofelt]

Do you have other devices attached to the UPS?
Monitors, printers, modems, …?
Those loads need to be added.
Likely, though, they are not sufficient to overload your UPS.

What I find curious is why it takes 30 minutes for the problem to occur.
Such a delay smells like a thermal problem that takes 30 minutes to develop.

 

[dhanhunter]

no

Do you have other devices attached to the UPS?
Monitors, printers, modems, …?
Those loads need to be added.
Likely, though, they are not sufficient to overload your UPS.

What I find curious is why it takes 30 minutes for the problem to occur.
Such a delay smells like a thermal problem that takes 30 minutes to develop.

no, only monitor and cpu is attached. NOT exactly 30 min sometimes less or more. but before beeping its power on

 

[dhanhunter]

this problem arises when i play heavy games.

 

[geofelt]

Heavy gaming will increase the power demand of both the CPU and the graphics card.

What is the make/model of your PSU?
If it is a cheap unit, I might suspect that first.

 

[dhanhunter]

Heavy gaming will increase the power demand of both the CPU and the graphics card.

What is the make/model of your PSU?
If it is a cheap unit, I might suspect that first.

Corsair 650w 80+ bronze certified

 

[Deleted member 14196]

here are some good power conditioners
https://www.tripplite.com/products/power-conditioners~23

 

[fry178]

on the long run, running on battery power will kill the psu.
almost anything (9 out 10 units) below 100-150$ are using a fake sine wave out.
a decent u it from apc or cyberpower will not only have a true/real/pure sine wave out but also have the avr feature build in, and usually can be adjusted.
i set mine as sensitive as possible, and will hear the ups switch, even when there is now visible/audible signs coming from lights/fan etc.
i would rather spend the money on that, use the existing unit for stuff like modem/router/dvr..

 

[InvalidError]

a decent u it from apc or cyberpower will not only have a true/real/pure sine wave out but also have the avr feature build in

The "fake" sine wave is perfectly fine for 99.9% of electronics that uses switching PSUs and a large percentage of stuff that uses plain AC transformers. Unless you own a device with known issues with UPS, I wouldn't bother making PSW a requirement and use a cheaper stepped approximation UPS for more efficient battery operation and 30-40% lower cost for comparable output rating and battery size.

 

[fry178]

and replacing the psu (if its active PFC) regularly.
i had more than one unit dying halfway in (out of the full warranty), and after switching everyone (incl myself),
the same rigs are now running for 5-7y without problems on the same psu that was put in to replace the broken one.
then again, i also never install anything but bronze rated and up.

when i see that the fake sine is 120$ (900VA), the true sine out (850VA) is 135$,
i dont see where cost is an issue.
stop drinking starbucks for a week, dont wash the car, and its made up for...

 

[InvalidError]

and replacing the psu (if its active PFC) regularly.

I have been using stepped UPSes for 20+ years, about 10 years of which in combination with APFC PSUs, and have yet to have any UPS-related issues. I've had five PSU failures over that time and they were dead caps on the 5VSB circuitry and main outputs, absolutely nothing to do with AC input since these are all on output rails, just the usual OEM bottom-speccing caps to limit the PSU's lifespan and shave pennies per unit. I repaired these PSUs and they are all still in working order today.

The only PSU I've had that really died on me so far died from the power company messing up a power meter swap. UPSes need 4+ms for the relays to switch over and I'm guessing my PSU did not like the crap it received during some of the four tries the tech needed before successfully slamming the new meter in, blew up the primary side FETs. At that time, the PSU (250W or 350W Fortron, circa 1999) was about 10 years old and running on an equally old APC RS1000, so I shrugged that off as long overdue for a replacement.

 

[AllanGH]

...I'm guessing my PSU did not like the crap it received during some of the four tries the tech needed before successfully slamming the new meter in...

A jaw-droppingly incompetent tech who should be fired, I might add. Nobody, with even half a grain of intelligence, pulls and re-seats a power mains meter without opening the main disconnect on the load side of the meter.

SMH

 

[InvalidError]

A jaw-droppingly incompetent tech who should be fired, I might add. Nobody, with even half a grain of intelligence, pulls and re-seats a power mains meter without opening the main disconnect on the load side of the meter.

Meters are outdoors, breaker boxes are indoors, so the tech would have needed to call for access or request action. I had a notice of pending meter replacement that will cause a momentary service interruption without other instructions.

Agreed on swapping meters under load being a bad idea, can mess up T4 sockets and turn them into a fire hazard. There is no shortage of meter boxes burning down from when power companies started deploying smart-meters.

 

[AllanGH]

Meters are outdoors, breaker boxes are indoors...

Are you saying that you have no service disconnect at the meter socket?

In my part of the country, there is at least a load disconnect above or below the meter socket, in the same Square-D enclosure; with a main disconnect at the breaker panel. Still, absent that, the tech should have called for access (and refused to do the meter pull if access wasn't granted) if you have no load disconnect at the meter socket....and you might want to rectify that shortcoming--if for no other reason than the safety of you and your family.

 

[fry178]

oh, not saying there couldn't be other reasons, but after switching to pure sine,
so far all psus lasted way longer than expected/covered, and since it wasnt just one..

but damn, not into the electrical stuff past what i learned during apprenticeship
(telecom but had to train on stuff like wiring up to 500V), but even i wouldnt have done that.
glad you didnt end up with a pile of ash..

 

[InvalidError]

if you have no load disconnect at the meter socket....and you might want to rectify that shortcoming--if for no other reason than the safety of you and your family.

In my corner of Canada, there are no accessible outdoors switches even in new constructions, the tamper-evident meter socket is the only external disconnect. Buildings with indoors meters on the other hand usually do have switches after the meter. May have something to do with preventing people from casually flipping houses off during winter, causing plumbing to freeze over if occupants are away beyond the usual nine-to-five while outdoors temperature is below -30C.

 

[AllanGH]

Ah....Canada. I did not realize. Apologies, as I presumed you to be in the lower 48.

 

[Karadjgne]

As a commercial electrician in the lower 48,ill say this. There are no load side disconnects on residential single family homes of 200A service or below that I've ever seen. The only service entrance disconnect will be the 200A mains at the breaker panel. If that box is outside (like for duplex or townhomes) then that breaker is accessible, but if the mains is inside, it's not, not without homeowner accessibility. Commercial or industrial will sometimes have outside, load side disconnects as they'll run 400A or larger. It all depends on the power company requirements. But any multi-bank meter base will have a service disconnect ahead of it.

My house happens to have 2 panels, one inside is a 200A mains, the one outside is a 200A main lug, no breaker. Only has 2x 90A breakers for the heat pumps.