[SOLVED] aio pump sounds like chainsaw! (super loud)

Page 2 - Seeking answers? Join the Tom's Hardware community: where nearly two million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
Nov 25, 2020
52
0
30
i bought a 240 aio from coolermaster 1 and a half months ago and it was working fine until recently its been making a super loud grinding/ticking sound that kinda sounds like something is failing
(i tested with all case fans off for a quick boot and the noise was still there)
and the sound is coming from the waterblock itself i have tried to reinstall it and did steps to hopefully remove water bubbles but none have worked at all.
any help is great
 
Last edited:
Solution
My understanding is that the ok mount for a radiator is to have where the tubes exit the radiator be below the pump so that any air in the system(and there will be at least some) is not near the exit.
Actually, Steve specifically states that the two undesirable AIO mounting configurations are front mounted with the radiator oriented so that the hoses are at the top of the radiator, and ANY configuration where the radiator is mounted flat and below the level of the pump. This is because air then gravitates to the highest point, which is going to be the pump, which is exactly where you DON'T want any air to be because that is exactly what cavitation is.

If the radiator is mounted anywhere that is higher than the pump, or is...
That was my first thought, but then when I saw the way he has the cooler installed, which is one of two possible correct configurations, I knew it was installed correctly and while it COULD be cavitation, it wouldn't be from it being incorrectly installed like Steve talks about in that video.

How old is this AIO?
The aio is a month old
 
My understanding is that the ok mount for a radiator is to have where the tubes exit the radiator be below the pump so that any air in the system(and there will be at least some) is not near the exit.
Turning the ps on the side was a good idea.
What happens if the pc is turned completely upside down so that the orientation is correct.
@op:
Cavitation noise is a minor issue.
What is bothersome is the reduction in performance, even though temperatures look OK.
In windows power management is the max cpu % set to 100%?
Are you using any kind of overclocking app or bios option?
I only overclocked my gpu rn I turned off my cpu overclock in fear of the cooler breaking
cpu is set to 100 in power managment temps are gradualy getting higher everyday (yesterday i maxxed out at 66 now 70 while stress testing pc upside down is same issue
 
Last edited:
My understanding is that the ok mount for a radiator is to have where the tubes exit the radiator be below the pump so that any air in the system(and there will be at least some) is not near the exit.
Actually, Steve specifically states that the two undesirable AIO mounting configurations are front mounted with the radiator oriented so that the hoses are at the top of the radiator, and ANY configuration where the radiator is mounted flat and below the level of the pump. This is because air then gravitates to the highest point, which is going to be the pump, which is exactly where you DON'T want any air to be because that is exactly what cavitation is.

If the radiator is mounted anywhere that is higher than the pump, or is front mounted with the hoses at the bottom, then air is not going to tend to find it's way easily to the pump until there is a very significant amount of air present in the loop.

If you go to the 13 minute point in that video, that begins the section titled top mounted tubes down is good, that explains that that configuration, exactly like what the OP here has, is a desirable and acceptable configuration. Front mount tubes at bottom is preferred, but top mount tubes down is acceptable and is not likely to be the cause of problem causing cavitation.
 
Solution
And THAT, is a big part of why I don't normally recommend practically anything sold by Cooler Master.
do you think i can get a refund on this? as a 16 year old who lost their job and cant afford another cooler(intel dont have stock cooler anymore) its going to be a bummer for it not to get replaced even after a month of use
 
If it's a month old, I would certainly try for either a refund from the place I bought it, or continue trying to make contact with Cooler master. Keep in mind, MOST companies have all of their support personnel working from home or only working in skeleton crews at their facilities, and in many cases only a few days per week, because of Covid. You have to keep that in mind as well.

In fact, this is right there on the Cooler master website, so it would seem to be accurate for them as well.

Announcement

Due to the ongoing concerns with COVID-19, Cooler Master employees will be working from home to help flatten the curve of the virus. Please send your inquiries to our ticketing system via Fanzone. Unfortunately, we do expect queue times for our ticketing system to increase because of this. Please bear with us and we thank you for your patience.

As customer satisfaction is a core value of Cooler Master, we would like to notify our customers that our current CRM system is having issues with the ticketing system at this point in time. Once the CRM vendor has verified that the issue has been resolved, we will respond to each and every ticket ASAP. We thank you for your continued patience at this time, and apologize for any inconvenience this issue may cause.

But, it's probably worth trying to make contact with somebody by sending another request and maybe also trying to contact somebody who can put you in touch with a support person from their own forums. I've had good success in the past getting to the right people by contacting moderators for ASUS, Corsair, Canon (Cameras), ASRock, etc. in this way when normal channels fell short.

In this case it doesn't seem like Cooler Master HAS it's own forum, which is kind of baffling, but they do have an official sub-Reddit and I'm sure they probably have a Facebook page, and both of them might be good sources for getting in touch with somebody who can help you to get this resolved. The rest, is up to you. I can make suggestions but you have to do the work in this regard.


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...oolermaster/&usg=AOvVaw3zuP8yjjMEyajBPJuzXcsk

But I would FIRST try the retailer who sold you the product, and I'd try it NOW, because if you wait, they will want to know why you didn't get with them from the start. Tell them you had to make sure it was actually the product itself and that you've been given assistance in determining it is from professional users online, even link them to this page if necessary. If it is still under replacement options from the retailer, you shouldn't have any problems. If not, you'll need to contact CM.