[SOLVED] AMD Ryzen 5900x running hot

SinSilsa

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Feb 7, 2022
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Hello,

Before I get underway I will post my specs.

OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Version 21H2 (OS Build 19044.1526)
cpu: AMD Ryzen 9 5900x (Chipset drivers up to date)
gpu: GTX 1080 TI GIgabyte Aorus (Nvidia drivers up to date)
mobo: MSI Mag B550 Tomahawk (BIOS up to date)
ram: 32GB DDR4 3600MHZ Team Group Edition (XMP Profile enabled)
cooler: Alpenfohn Brocken 3 140mm Dual Fan (Enabled, confirmed via BIOS + HW Monitor)
case: Lancool II Mesh Performance Midi-Tower (stock with 3 PWM fans - 2 intake at the front and 1 exhaust on the back)

I bought the Lancool II mesh because I was informed by the internet that it was such a good airflow case. I made the choice to go the air cooled route but the cooler was also recommended by some users on the internet. I just wanted to get that out of the way.

I bought this system a while ago now (1080ti and a few other things carried over) but it was only recently I began installing a few games but my cpu temp in-game is climbing upwards of 86c. It sometimes caps out at 70, sometimes 75, sometimes 80 but on the most recent installation Cyberpunk 2077 it's at 85c (80-81 after ramping up the case fans). The reason I find this concerning is because I limit my framerates to 60fps, PBO isn't even enabled, core boost is though, but that's enabled by default, I'm only at 1440p and I have a fan curve setup for the 1080ti that brings the temperature down to about 60-63 at the highest. So I dread to think what my temps would be like with uncapped framerates on games where it's still feasible to be pushing 100+ frames and is still relatively new. Bioshock Infinite was fine but it's a really old game. Metro Exodus I capped at 60fps ultra at 1440p and the cpu temp was about 75c in that game. Days Gone and God of War were similar 75-80c with 1440p 60fps.

I can manage the case fans with a switch on the front of the case. If I crank that up a notch the temps reduce by about 4c, but that's the best I can do. Do I need more case fans? The computer was setup by the Stepdad who as a ton of experience. Thermal paste was added before-hand. Cooler and all that other stuff should be fitted properly.

My idle temps for each component is 30c. cpu being the exception as it typically settles around 35-40c. The HWINFO min, averages, max seem to be similar across the board for the cpu temps. I have read a bit about undervolting but because it's different on each system I don't really want to be messing about with it. Everything is pretty much up to date at stock settings besides XMP profile being enabled and the fan curve for the 1080ti.
 
Solution
Which cooler would you recommend for the 5900x in the Lancool II Mesh Performance Midi-Tower? I wasn't even skimping out on the cooler. I paid £53.99 for it, if I knew it sucked I would have gladly paid that £20-£40 difference for a much better one. If I go watercooled I think I have a 240mm limit on the top of my case if I remember rightly. I suck at this sort of thing with the measurements and selecting the right components for the job...

If I was to invest in a few more fans so I can keep it on the slow / standard profile and hopefully bring the temps down a bit further which ones would you recommend? I think my mobo / case supports a maximum of 6 PWM fans? There is a 120mm slot available at the front which I guess would be...

larsv8

Distinguished
I doubt capping your frames will help contain temperatures.

The 5900x in general is a hot chip, but the TJ Max is listed at 90 degree Celsius.

Computers are designed to throttle once they reach unsafe temperatures, so this isn't something I would be too concerned about.

You can reapply thermal paste and make sure the cooler is on evenly and at the appropriate pressure, but I am not seeing anything too crazy here.

If you want, you can buy a beefier cooler, but case and three fans is sufficient.

If you want to re-evaluate your cooler, here is a good place to start:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vex9_84VpYs&ab_channel=GamersNexus
 

SinSilsa

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Feb 7, 2022
12
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510
Which cooler would you recommend for the 5900x in the Lancool II Mesh Performance Midi-Tower? I wasn't even skimping out on the cooler. I paid £53.99 for it, if I knew it sucked I would have gladly paid that £20-£40 difference for a much better one. If I go watercooled I think I have a 240mm limit on the top of my case if I remember rightly. I suck at this sort of thing with the measurements and selecting the right components for the job...

If I was to invest in a few more fans so I can keep it on the slow / standard profile and hopefully bring the temps down a bit further which ones would you recommend? I think my mobo / case supports a maximum of 6 PWM fans? There is a 120mm slot available at the front which I guess would be intake? Should I get a few fans for exhaust as well to get the hot air out of the case?

I need to know the push / pull configuration for the case and where I would be placing either the air cooler or the watercooler.
 
Which cooler would you recommend for the 5900x in the Lancool II Mesh Performance Midi-Tower? I wasn't even skimping out on the cooler. I paid £53.99 for it, if I knew it sucked I would have gladly paid that £20-£40 difference for a much better one. If I go watercooled I think I have a 240mm limit on the top of my case if I remember rightly. I suck at this sort of thing with the measurements and selecting the right components for the job...

If I was to invest in a few more fans so I can keep it on the slow / standard profile and hopefully bring the temps down a bit further which ones would you recommend? I think my mobo / case supports a maximum of 6 PWM fans? There is a 120mm slot available at the front which I guess would be intake? Should I get a few fans for exhaust as well to get the hot air out of the case?

I need to know the push / pull configuration for the case and where I would be placing either the air cooler or the watercooler.
Whatever cooler you settle on you have to keep in mind the way most modern CPU's work and Ryzen in particular and shape your expectations accordingly.

Modern CPU's don't run flat-out all the time but idle as much as they can for energy saving, Ryzen does too but it does so very aggressively. It idles at very low clocks...even shutting off cores entirely (C6 deep sleep) as often as it can. And when it boosts it boost directly to it's maximum clock possible (based on temperature and power margins) and that will spike temp in the core that's boosting. Ryzen also uses 'hot spot' temp sensors, several dozen probably on a dual die CPU like a 5900X and it directly reports that hottest sensor.

There's almost always a core boosting (there are 12 of them, after all) to execute the many background tasks Windows runs and with each boost somewhere a sensor reports the spiked temperature. That's what you're seeing. It's not really thermally significant all alone and impossible to "cool" with any cooler. You have to look at an average temp, which is more similar to the edge sensors of old, to see the true thermal state of the CPU. HWInfo64 has an averaged reading. So does RyzenMaster but it's not recommended to install that just for temperature monitoring.

And lastly: as most modern CPU's Ryzen 5000 can run up to 90C (5800/5900/5950) by design. It's even expected as it seems the algorithm is using that as a target for limiting it's boosting:

 
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Solution
First of all, your temperatures are not overly concerning.
It is normal for a graphics card like a GTX1080ti to run hot.
They are built to tolerate heat and are designed to operate around 80c.
It is the job of the fan controller to ramp up cooling so that the card can deliver maximum performance at 80c.

On the 5900x, the processor monitors it's own temperature and it will slow down or even shut off if it detects a dangerous temperature. I think that point for ryzen is in the 90-95c. range.

Your case is a good one for air cooling.
You need do nothing on that score.
Consider that the cooling fans on the gpu will be less than the area if one of your front 140mm intakes, and the fan on the cpu cooler will be about the same as the other 140mm intake.
A nice and convenient balance.
At the expense of more noise, one can buy very high rpm 140mm replace ent fans,but I would not do that.

Your cooler is a decent one, but not the best air cooler around.
Look at the Noctua NH-D15S. It comes in black also if you care.
.

The NH-D15 would be marginally better, but would not work because there would be a ram clearance issue since your ram is 43.5mm high.
 

SinSilsa

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Feb 7, 2022
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510
First of all, your temperatures are not overly concerning.
It is normal for a graphics card like a GTX1080ti to run hot.
They are built to tolerate heat and are designed to operate around 80c.
It is the job of the fan controller to ramp up cooling so that the card can deliver maximum performance at 80c.

On the 5900x, the processor monitors it's own temperature and it will slow down or even shut off if it detects a dangerous temperature. I think that point for ryzen is in the 90-95c. range.

Your case is a good one for air cooling.
You need do nothing on that score.
Consider that the cooling fans on the gpu will be less than the area if one of your front 140mm intakes, and the fan on the cpu cooler will be about the same as the other 140mm intake.
A nice and convenient balance.
At the expense of more noise, one can buy very high rpm 140mm replace ent fans,but I would not do that.

Your cooler is a decent one, but not the best air cooler around.
Look at the Noctua NH-D15S. It comes in black also if you care.
.

The NH-D15 would be marginally better, but would not work because there would be a ram clearance issue since your ram is 43.5mm high.

The 1080ti temps have been fine with a fan curve set. It sits around 56c on Cyberpunk 2077 with a capped 60fps. Idle it's 30-34c with the fans off. It's the cpu temps that I was worried about being 80+. I'll get that NH-D15S ordered hopefully it improves the situation. Is the one fan sufficient?

I know everybody as said not to bother with replacement case fans but I may still go ahead and get a set to replace the existing ones. Instead of 2x140mm PWM 4 pin fans for intake at the front of the case I'm thinking 3x120mm PWM 4 pin fans so I can place the third in the shroud to cool my extra storage drives. The case only supports 2x140mm or 3x120mm. It's a really tight squeeze trying to fit a 120mm in that lower empty slot alongside the 140mm's. Then a replacement 120mm PWM rear exhaust 4 pin fan. Since turning the profiles up from low, to standard / high they are making a right racket, need some quieter ones that supply cooling just as well if not better. Which ones come well recommended?

Something I don't quite understand about case fans is why do some have 7+ fans? 3 front, 2 above PSU Shroud, 1 rear, 2 top if it's counter-productive or with fractional differences?
 
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Two 140mm intake fans are about the equivalent of 3 120mm fans.
Think about it, the fan surface area is almost exactly the same.
As a plus, the 140mm fans turn at a quieter rpm to move a lot of air.
I would not change them out unless you thought you needed more airflow.
And, even then, only if you can tolerate higher noise.
You can get good 140's up to barn burner 3000 rpm.
Noctua makes some good ones.
At what rpm are your current fans running?
HWmonitor should tell you the current, minimum, and max rpm of the fans.
700 rpm is largely inaudible.
Under 1000RPM should be relatively quiet.
1200 is noticeable, and 1500 is loud.
It makes a difference how far away the case is from your ear.

You can add another 120mm fan to the NH-D15s, but tests show minimal(2c.) difference.
I would not bother.

Storage drives do not need active cooling. They just need to have a little bit of airflow.

I see the purpose of the rear exhaust is to direct the airflow past the motherboard and cooler.
Having a high rpm version will only add noise, and will not add much to cooling effectiveness.

Whatever cooling air that comes in the front will exit SOMEWHERE without any assistance, taking component heat with it.

Some will think that because there are many fan install spots that they should be filled.
They do not consider the extra expense and noise from doing so, or if the increased airflow brings any measurable benefit.
 
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SinSilsa

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Feb 7, 2022
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Two 140mm intake fans are about the equivalent of 3 120mm fans.
Think about it, the fan surface area is almost exactly the same.
As a plus, the 140mm fans turn at a quieter rpm to move a lot of air.
I would not change them out unless you thought you needed more airflow.
And, even then, only if you can tolerate higher noise.
You can get good 140's up to barn burner 3000 rpm.
Noctua makes some good ones.
At what rpm are your current fans running?
HWmonitor should tell you the current, minimum, and max rpm of the fans.
700 rpm is largely inaudible.
Under 1000RPM should be relatively quiet.
1200 is noticeable, and 1500 is loud.
It makes a difference how far away the case is from your ear.

You can add another 120mm fan to the NH-D15s, but tests show minimal(2c.) difference.
I would not bother.

Storage drives do not need active cooling. They just need to have a little bit of airflow.

I see the purpose of the rear exhaust is to direct the airflow past the motherboard and cooler.
Having a high rpm version will only add noise, and will not add much to cooling effectiveness.

Whatever cooling air that comes in the front will exit SOMEWHERE without any assistance, taking component heat with it.

Some will think that because there are many fan install spots that they should be filled.
They do not consider the extra expense and noise from doing so, or if the increased airflow brings any measurable benefit.

Thanks a lot for this :). The case fans are set to default so slow = 45%, medium = 75% and high = 100% and the rpm range for the 140mm is 600-1200 and the 120mm rear quotes 600-1500rpm. For some odd reason my MSI BIOS doesn't keep track of the case fan speeds. Maybe the HUB is setup incorrectly... The switch on the case works when adjusting from low, medium to high speed but the BIOS or Windows software isn't tracking my system fans for some reason, but does track the PWM for the cpu fans and pump.

I guess I'll just keep the current fans, I can keep the fans set to low when general browsing anyway, that's the only time they are quiet, and I wear a headset anyway. I'll keep those Noctua fans in mind just in case I ever do end up replacing them at some point.

As for the cooler fingers crossed it makes some sort of positive difference when I get it.