Question Are there any universal PCIe cables I can buy off Amazon (need them quick) or cables for Corsair HW1000 PSU ?

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pattamus

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Hi,

I really have 2 questions, but 1 in particular because I THINK I have this issue pegged down to my rather old pci-e cables. I don't think it could be the PSU itself because its working fine, as far as I can tell. 2 reasons I think it is the cables is because my PC kept just turning off during certain things (trying to watch netflix or youtube, any gaming or just certain other programs that aren't graphic intense at all.)

I could boot it up with no problem, and I ran like 4 4k movies at once, didnt have any trouble, just random shutoffs. At first, before I even opened my case and tightened the cables and even switched cables to different ports on the GPU, I could just BARELY touch the one of the cables (I had the sides of my case off) and then restart the case and it would boot up, everything was fine until I did one of those random things or it just randomly shut off or rebooted.)

So I finally reconfigured the cables and did a clean reinstall of my gpu drivers, and it's working, I can game, play netflix, youtube, all those problems are gone, but it just randomly shuts off or reboots itself. I reset the UEFI completely, no overclock, No problem with anything else that I can tell. It seems stable and has been all day today but last night it randomly shut off even after I made sure the cables were reconnected.

Of course that is the reason I think it is the cable(s), but it seemed to be only one cable that would malfunction, since I could barely touch it and it would reboot right away.

Sorry for the long post, but my first question is in the header, about if I can buy generic pci-e cables and if so, what kind, just to make sure? Also, I am having trouble finding cables JUST for the corsair HW1000 that I have. My second question is, do you guys agree that my problem is the pci-e cables after what I just wrote? I am pretty convinced it is, because like I said, just barely touching one before would let it boot up, but until I did some rewiring it works fine, and will for hours, but last night it just randomly cut off, so I'd rather just buy new cables than take it to a computer shop and pay 400$ just for them to find the same issue. I've built several pcs for my friends and they all did fine, and i've been building my own gaming pc's for years now. Just need a little help from you more experienced and smart people out there :) Thank you so much for anyone who can help, I apologize again for the long post, this issue has been driving me crazy!
 
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Short answer. No. There are no "universal" cables for ANY power supply. At all. Ever.

While some systems DO share the same pinouts at the PSU end of the cable, many do not, therefore there is NO such thing as a "universal" power supply modular cable. And people who've disagreed with my assessment of that in the past have usually come back to complain about how they went forward with whatever they wanted to do, and ended up letting a lot of the "magic smoke" out of the cable or device.

You MUST buy cables that are 100% intended for your specific PSU model. Cablemod sells them via their website and on Amazon for specific models including yours. There are other sites that sell custom cable sets as well, both in the custom sleeved and plain Jane varieties. I would recommend not going with the cheapest knockoff cables you can find because they tend to use smaller gauge wire and are prone to problems like melting the insulation. Buy something from a reputable source OR the OEM for the PSU.

Full Cable Kits – CableMod

cablemod.com cablemod.com

Home

Best selection of PC cable sleeving supplies at the lowest price. All of our PC Cable Sleeving materials have been thoroughly tested to provide the best possible quality and satisfaction. The best custom PC cables are also found here.
mainframecustom.com mainframecustom.com
 
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Darkbreeze said:
Short answer. No. There are no "universal" cables for ANY power supply. At all. Ever.

While some systems DO share the same pinouts at the PSU end of the cable, many do not, therefore there is NO such thing as a "universal" power supply modular cable. And people who've disagreed with my assessment of that in the past have usually come back to complain about how they went forward with whatever they wanted to do, and ended up letting a lot of the "magic smoke" out of the cable or device.

You MUST buy cables that are 100% intended for your specific PSU model. Cablemod sells them via their website and on Amazon for specific models including yours. There are other sites that sell custom cable sets as well, both in the custom sleeved and plain Jane varieties. I would recommend not going with the cheapest knockoff cables you can find because they tend to use smaller gauge wire and are prone to problems like melting the insulation. Buy something from a reputable source OR the OEM for the PSU.

Full Cable Kits – CableMod

cablemod.com cablemod.com

Home

Best selection of PC cable sleeving supplies at the lowest price. All of our PC Cable Sleeving materials have been thoroughly tested to provide the best possible quality and satisfaction. The best custom PC cables are also found here.
mainframecustom.com mainframecustom.com
Click to expand...
Thank you so much! I appreciate the links, but I am pretty desperate at the moment, I hate to ask anymore from you since you gave me such a straightforward answer, but could you find an amazon link for me? I have looked and looked and just cannot find one that is compatible. As you said there are some on amazon, if you could link me I would be forever grateful. I would not ask this of you , I just got an amazon prime membership and I could get them in 2 days from there, I found some on ebay, but it said an almost 2 week wait, and I am trying to keep up with my clan in d4 season 1, If you can find me one real quick it would seriously help, I came up with zero from there. Thanks once more -Pat
 
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--SID-- said:
There is no Corsair HW1000! You mean HX1000W?

What are the full system specs of your PC?
Click to expand...
I meant HX not HW, sorry about the error. If I must I will give you the complete specs, no problem. Thanks for helping.

Intel Core i9 11900K CPU
MSI MPG Z490 Gaming Edge Wifi MB
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti (8 GB)
Corsair HX1000 PSU
Corsair 16GB DDR4 RAM
Corsair Case (don't have the info right on hand, but it's all glass and new)
SSD Disk Drive MKNSSDRE1TB (931 GB)
SSD Disk Drive PNY CS900 2TB SSD (1863 GB)
External Disk Drive Seagate Expansion SCSI Disk Device (1863 GB)
External Disk Drive Seagate Portable SCSI Disk Device (4657 GB)
75" Smart OLED 4k HDTV Monitor
Wireless Logitech Keyboard (model name not relevant)
Wireless Logitech Mouse (model name not relevant)
Windows 10 Home Edition

If I am missing anything of significance, please let me know.

Sorry for mixing up HX and HW, I knew it was HX, I have no idea why I typed HW on here, I sincerely apologize. Thank you for your patience and help.
 
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Hi,

I have been monitoring the heat using AIDA64 and I have MSI afterburner but I deleted it because I was using it to overclock. I also set my bios to default, so it's not overheating, I am positive of that. Thank you for the suggestion.

A pic of the side of my PC wont show clear because I have it on a computer case that moves, and it has protective guards on each side of my PC, which have holes in them. I could give it shot, but I don't think you will see much.

As far as CPU coolers, I have an air cooler, I can't remember the model and AIDA is not telling me (I don't think it ever told the CPU coolers name and specs), but it is definitely placed well and doesn't move a bit when touched. I even pushed it back down just to make sure but its rock solid in place. The hottest my GPU has gotten in MSI afterburner is about 85 degrees F, that's while playing one of my more intense games, and in my BIOS/UEFI, I set it to warn status if it gets too hot (for me that is 95 degrees). I have since turned that off and it is working just as well. It is currently only allowed to get to 4800mhz, when the default is 5.1. So I have kept AIDA in the background as well as MSI before I deleted it because I was scared because I did overclock it using that , and it would shut off just the game, not the whole pc when it would overheat. But this is a totally different issue, I mean before i tightened all the plugs on the GPU and PSU, and reset my drivers to default after re-downloading them, it is working, but I still get the very random cutoff. I have ran it this morning till I guess this morning (it's 5:04am here now, I slept all day because I have insomnia and got none last night).

So I am 95% sure it has to be the pci-e cable(s), because It was turning off ALOT until id just walk up and barely touch the cable on the left side and it would boot back up with no issue. Now i'd say it's fixed, if it didn't cut off on me last night playing a game. I will take the pic , but you won't be able to tell much. Thanks for helping! Best pic I could get, it's not as dusty as it looks, I had it on flash: https://www.imagebam.com/view/MEN4MP6 Idk why it came out upside down but you can still see it. The wires are criss crossed because I wanted to see if it would make a difference, the one now on the right was the one I could just barely reach in and touch and it would boot right up. It seems to be a lot better off, as its been on about 24 hours now , and I forgot to say I did the 100% heat stress test with AIDA 64 , I could only do it for about 8 hours but it didn't get above 89 degrees F. So I'm pretty sure it's not the heat. The cords look raggly don't they? at least they did before I bought the PSU back in like 2010. But the PSU has been holding steady or else I wouldn't have passed any stress test that long and my cooler wouldn't either. I know you are supposed to do it for 24 hours, but I just don't have that kind of time, if it were getting hot at all during the 8 hour test or testing while gaming, I would give that a try, but I think it a bit much since I see no evidence of that. Thanks again for your patience!
 
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I got it in about 2008-10 ( I really can't remember TBH. 15 years is a long time, but it may be the 80 plus. Is there any way I can check on the PSU itself (It doesn't say as far as I could see), how old is the HX1000 platinum? I would guess its the 80 Plus. I don't remember anything about platinum when I bought it. There are some cables on ebay that look exactly the same but It doesn't say 80 plus or platinum. I can imagine im gonna have a harder time finding the 80 plus and going to have to pay more... This just gets more complicated , but at this moment im about ready to just pay whatever to end this problem. Is there any software that can tell me? AIDA 64 does a pretty good job but it doesn't list every little thing. If there is a way to tell, I'm down for doing it. The actual name HX1000 is on the other side of the PC, which also has the glass off it, I could take a pic of it, it anyone could identify...it's got a lot of my SSD wires in front of it, but I can TRY to snap a pic if that would identify it. I'll try that now. Thank you.
https://imgur.com/a/HvkBrKa
View: https://imgur.com/a/HvkBrKa
 
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pattamus said:
I got it in about 2008-10 ( I really can't remember TBH. 15 years is a long time, but it may be the 80 plus. Is there any way I can check on the PSU itself (It doesn't say as far as I could see), how old is the HX1000 platinum? I would guess its the 80 Plus. I don't remember anything about platinum when I bought it. There are some cables on ebay that look exactly the same but It doesn't say 80 plus or platinum. I can imagine im gonna have a harder time finding the 80 plus and going to have to pay more... This just gets more complicated , but at this moment im about ready to just pay whatever to end this problem. Is there any software that can tell me? AIDA 64 does a pretty good job but it doesn't list every little thing. If there is a way to tell, I'm down for doing it. The actual name HX1000 is on the other side of the PC, which also has the glass off it, I could take a pic of it, it anyone could identify...it's got a lot of my SSD wires in front of it, but I can TRY to snap a pic if that would identify it. I'll try that now. Thank you.
https://imgur.com/a/HvkBrKa
View: https://imgur.com/a/HvkBrKa
Click to expand...
I'm guessing its the 15 year old one, thats about right on the timeline and I see nothing saying platinum as you can see in the pic... 🙁 Am I totally screwed now, or is there still cables out for this model? It's been a tough PSU with no problems thru the years, these problems only started when I got my new GPU and had to plug the PCI-E cables in. I think my PSU is still running just fine, but now im worried where ill find replacements especially on amazon. I could get those off ebay but they don't specify which PSU it is for, but it doesn't say platinum. I wish there were somewhere else I could get replacements quick without waiting 2 weeks. I guess that's my new problem. Man this is frustrating! I thank you for all him/hers help, at least I know what i'm dealing with now. Do these look legit? : https://www.ebay.com/itm/3947010560...ZGRzegKV9SYzTBWwSI2XPm-the9o4DahoCFDgQAvD_BwE
 
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pattamus said:
I could get those off ebay but they don't specify which PSU it is for, but it doesn't say platinum. I wish there were somewhere else I could get replacements quick without waiting 2 weeks. I guess that's my new problem. Man this is frustrating! I thank you for all him/hers help, at least I know what i'm dealing with now. Do these look legit?
Click to expand...
Cables do not deteriorate. They can melt. But if they haven't, then they're most likely fine.
PSU itself in 15 years of service time can deteriorate.

And do not use modular PSU cables, you're not 100% sure are compatible with your PSU.
You will kill your expensive components with incompatible cables.

Replace PSU together with all the PSU cables.
 
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SkyNetRising said:
Cables do not deteriorate. They can melt. But if they haven't, then they're most likely fine.
PSU itself in 15 years of service time can deteriorate.

And do not use modular PSU cables, you're not 100% sure are compatible with your PSU.
You will kill your expensive components with incompatible cables.

Replace PSU together with all the PSU cables.
Click to expand...
So if I replace the PSU, I just looked on amazon and all of them are modular, is that fine as long as it is new? Also, could I go lower on power like an 850w ? I will buy another corsair. They usually come with all the right cables correct? Thank you, I will do this as long as the new modular cables are good.
 
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pattamus said:
So if I replace the PSU, I just looked on amazon and all of them are modular, is that fine as long as it is new? Also, could I go lower on power like an 850w ? I will buy another corsair. They usually come with all the right cables correct?
Click to expand...
RTX 3070 Ti minimum recommended PSU is 750W. I wouldn't suggest going any lower than that.
If you use any kind of overclocking, then you have to account for that too.
850W would be fine.
 
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SkyNetRising said:
RTX 3070 Ti minimum recommended PSU is 750W. I wouldn't suggest going any lower than that.
If you use any kind of overclocking, then you have to account for that too.
850W would be fine.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much! You probably saved my RTX 3070. I will just get another corsair 850w that has all the right features. I found one for 129$. That is pretty affordable considering I could screw my whole new build up. I was told long ago that PSUs can last almost forever, but it's been almost forever as it's been 15 years.. I got the 1000w because I thought SLI was the cool new thing and it needed that much power, and of course over the years people realized SLI sucked and hardly anyone does it anymore. Me and my PC thank you, It would suck to lose new parts over that bigass box of a PSU, lol. Have a great day!
 
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--SID-- said:
What exact model? If I was in the race for a new PSU right now I would get an ATX3.0 certified unit. Corsair has the RMe 2023 and RMx Shift.
Click to expand...

Is this one not good enough or anything wrong with it? If so i'd be happy to know because I haven't hit buy yet. If you can find me a more solid one, it would save me time and money and i'd be mighty grateful. Actually im not familiar with the terms you are using, lol. I haven't been in the building game for about 8 years as you can probably tell. Since my own was running good , people who don't game are all using laptops and I haven't had any practice. If you could link me to a solid one for a decent price that would be awesome! I don't want to waste money on something that isn't up to par, yet I don't want to spend 300$ either, kind of in a financial bind, like a lot of us right now. That would help me out alot.
 
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pattamus said:

Is this one not good enough or anything wrong with it? If so i'd be happy to know because I haven't hit buy yet. If you can find me a more solid one, it would save me time and money and i'd be mighty grateful. Actually im not familiar with the terms you are using, lol. I haven't been in the building game for about 8 years as you can probably tell. Since my own was running good , people who don't game are all using laptops and I haven't had any practice. If you could link me to a solid one for a decent price that would be awesome! I don't want to waste money on something that isn't up to par, yet I don't want to spend 300$ either, kind of in a financial bind, like a lot of us right now. That would help me out alot.
Click to expand...

Would this be one that you are talking about? only 10$ more... if so, awesome! Looks like it has to be, the rmx shift. Buying in the US. Oh sorry I didn't know you weren't getting the links. This is one i found for 10$ more : Corsair-RM850x-Shift-Modular-Supply/dp/B0BP8BJ7X4/ref=sr_1_1? Not a link just the name. If that's the one you'd get or one of the ones you'd get its a go!
https://imgur.com/a/xfHKQ4R
View: https://imgur.com/a/xfHKQ4R

Here's a bigger pic so you can see better. : https://www.imagebam.com/view/MEN4SSE
 
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Yeah, that's gotta be the RMX Shift you were talking about, says 3.0 and everything. Thank you as well sid, and everyone who helped me figure this out, you are awesome! I hope to get back in the game and start learning modern tech so I can help people as well, and tech is only moving forward faster, so I need to get with the times! I was close though, just didn't think my whale of a PSU would be out of date, but I was given wrong info, or maybe when he said "forever" he didn't mean longer than 15 years in the building world. That IS forever these days. Again, thank you to everyone who helped, this issue has been bothering me and could have destroyed my new build. I will try to pay it forward when I learn more. I should take A+ classes online ( I did it years ago in like 2006). I will be ordering that model posted above unless anyone else has any input. Well done gentlemen/ladies!
 
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Generally speaking, when an issue in one of my PCs *could* be the PSU or I'm making a specific upgrade to that PC, I will swap out any PSU that's at least 10 years old (and 10 years only because I use quality PSUs every time). The PSU is simply too important to the health of the PC to take any chances, and since I work from home, time is money.
 
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10 year old HX, yes, replace the whole thing not the cables, which you probably can't find anymore anyhow and would have to get custom made cables for something that old unless you could find some new old stock on Ebay. Which would be pointless since it's ten years old, at least.

And if you're going to buy the Shift PSU, make sure that your case has pass through holes on the side where the cables connect to the PSU since the Shift does not have it's modular sockets on the back of the unit like most power supplies do, but on the side, so that the cable connections will be hidden. Not all cases are going to accommodate that well as some of them lack pass through holes in that area of the motherboard tray. In fact, probably MOST cases won't accommodate that PSU design. You are probably much better off going with a standard layout design.

What case do you actually have?
 
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Man, wish I'd known that before just ordering. But I couldn't tell you the model, it's a fully glass corsair case , all I can tell you is it has 3 120mm intake fans in the front, one 220mm on top outtake (optional) and a 120mm in the back outtake. It's about 4 years old I would say. I hope I don't have to return this.. sigh.

Which model would you suggest I go with? The Rme 2023? Other than those 2 models, I'm not 100% sure what would even be compatible. Sorry for my noobishness, it's been 15 years since my last PSU install. Connecting to an RTX 3080 Ti, I do overclock, and have a lot of peripherals, so i'm def. going for an 850w ATX 3.0 (what I was told I should get earlier in the thread).

Just cancelled order before it shipped, so now shopping for a new PSU. Here are some pics of the bottom of the case I took for DarkBreeze before I cancelled my order due to his sage advice (Thanks a ton my man, you saved me a LOT of hassle!) https://www.imagebam.com/view/MEN50PN https://www.imagebam.com/view/MEN50PR https://www.imagebam.com/view/MEN50PU

EDIT: yes I know its dusty, the flash makes it look alot worse plus ive got the sides off and working on it. The side with the steel corsair label is on the same side where the gpu is. other side psu wide open but alot of other cables in the way. Thanks again guys/gals!
 
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Should I just be safe and cancel it ? I can do it before it ships. Is the Rme 2023 3.0 what I need? I kinda need to know asap , if not i'll just cancel soon. Man what a hassle this has been. I thank you for telling me that DarkBreeze. I don't think the other poster was trying to put me out intentionally but you may have just saved me unless those pics look ok.

EDIT: Ok it's cancelled. Can anyone confirm one that will work with my case. It's just a regular case, I'm looking for a corsair PSU that will be compatible with a regular case, it's a corsair all glass case about 4 years old, I do not know the exact model but I uploaded some pics above if anyone would like to see the wire configuration. corsair preferred, they have done me very well in the past, but if you have something else in mind I'm not married to them. I'm looking for something ATX 3.0 with the cables on the back side. Thanks to anyone who can help.
 
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