Ark Survival Evolved crashed my Desktop

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Aug 7, 2016
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I have been running Ark Survival evolved @4.3 ghz on a lga 1151 6600k for the past couple weeks with no problems then last night the whole system started shutting down while playing Ark in the game when you go to harvest trees , rocks , and attack dinos started freezing so thinking that it was something to do with thermals coming from the CPU i took the desktop and put it on my workstation in the kitchen and took off the old TIM and applied a fresh coat of IC Diamond to the CPU and started everything back up.

After application of the TIM and running the game i ran Core Temp while game was running and thermals on CPU never got past 60 c and if i remember correctly that is not bad themermals during gaming. Confused about what the issue could be i opened the case and touched the top of my R9 390 and it was warm to the touch.

Not sure if that is normal or not for R9 390 i got CPUID HWMonitor and it reported the GPU around 74 c. Also i would like anyone's input on what else it can possibly be. I have mods installed on Ark and have verified the local files many times.

I also forgot to mention that i have a ARCTIC COOLING Freezer i32 CO 120mm Dual Ball Bearing CPU Cooler with 120 mm PWM PST, Dual Ball Bearing for Continuous Operation in push pull cooling the CPU. Should i upgrade my CPU cooler solution? PSU is CoolerMaster V850 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0ZX2C38564&cm_re=cooler_master_v850-_-17-171-079-_-Product and i have a samsung 850 500gb ssd as system drive and a western digital 2tb 128 mb cahce 7200 rpm hdd and a Seagate 8 tb 256 mb 7200 rpm hdd plus many other USB external devices always hooked up to the system. I had my memory G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000 (PC4 24000) Intel Z170 Platform Desktop Memory Model F4-3000C15Q-32GVRB oc'd to 3333 mhz. If you know of any programs that i can use to test and see where the problem is i would be extremely grateful.
 
Solution
To get the gaming stat 100% or above, you don't need faster RAM but instead better GPU, e.g GTX 1070 Ti. Here's one random run where he has gaming stat 110% with GTX 1070 Ti,
link: http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/9382529

Gaming
3D Gaming and graphics.

This formula is weighted towards GPU performance:
25%*GCPU Bench + 50%*GPU Bench + 15%*SSD Bench + 10%*HDD Bench
(GCPU Bench† = 30% Single core, 60% Quad core, 10% Multi core)
†For games that can't use multiple cores the desktop CPU Bench is a better indicator of performance.

source: http://www.userbenchmark.com/Faq/What-are-the-UBM-performance-classifications/93

Only RAM DIMMS have XMP. To OC CPU, you need to do it either manually from BIOS or use 3rd party program (your...
To see which of your hardware is underperforming, run the UserBenchmark tool,
link: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Software

Post the results link here for further validation.

You say that: "whole system started shutting down". Care to explain it better? E.g did you get BSoD? black screen? game slowed down until it froze? etc.
Also, did this happen only in that game or in all games? Did it happen once or multiple times? Can you recreate the "crash" or is it random?

Got bunch of other questions as well but those above will do for now.

As far as your CPU cooler goes, it's one of the best mid-sized CPU cooler and there's no need to replace it.
In my Skylake build, full specs with pics in my sig, my i5-6600K is also cooled by Freezer i32. Though, i have the standard i32 and not the CO as you have. Diff between the two is that i32 has fluid-dynamic bearing fan while i32 CO has double ball bearing fan. Performance wise, both are very solid CPU coolers.
As far as temps go, max what my CPU went with stock semi-passive fluid-dynamic bearing fan was 55°C. I've replaced the stock semi-passive fluid-dynamic bearing fan with 2x Corsair ML120 Pro LED mag-lev bearing fans to get better performance with a lot more eyecandy in push-pull and most what my CPU has gone is 44°C while at idle, it's at 26°C.
 
I reinstalled everything and now I have to go into BIOS and select my SSD drive to load into Windows 10 and my gskill memory is having problems running at advertised speeds. Can only get too 2100 MHz on ram. USB ports are not being recognized. Shutdowns was random and there was no BOSD or blue screen.
 
According to the latest symptoms, it looks like your MoBo is damaged. Though, to rule out software issues, mainly Win 10 as a whole, boot into GNU/Linux and look if you get the same issues, e.g no USB ports working. Easiest way to do it is to create live bootable GNU/Linux USB drive. Here's link to the tool to create it,
link: http://www.pendrivelinux.com/universal-usb-installer-easy-as-1-2-3/

It isn't hard to set it up. Though, you'd need at least 4GB USB flash drive. Oh, you can use almost any GNU/Linux distro you like. I too have live bootable GNU/Linux on a USB drive just in case my Win decides to crap out and i can't access my storage drives.

Here's full list of supported distros,
link: http://www.pendrivelinux.com/universal-usb-installer-easy-as-1-2-3/#Supported-Distros

If you don't know which GNU/Linux distro to use then you can go for Lubuntu Desktop (uses very little system resources and i also have it on my laptop) or Linux Mint (i have it installed on my USB flash drive and i prefer it over other GNU/Linux distros i've tried).
Lubuntu Desktop distro download: https://lubuntu.net/downloads/
Linux Mint distro download: https://www.linuxmint.com/download.php

Just download GNU/Linux distro, plug in your USB flash drive, start the Universal USB Installer and follow on-screen instructions. Once the installation is complete, reboot your system and after POST, select you USB drive as bootable drive. So that your PC boots into GNU/Linux.
 


here is the link to the bench that i ran , please give it a look over and advise what i should do. Thank You and God bless http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/9348313
 
Gave those 2 runs a look and your CPU usage is a bit high in 1st run while in 2nd run it's at 47%. For optimal results, try having your CPU usage 10% or lower.
But other than high CPU usage, it's clear that your RAM is running at stock speeds of 2133 Mhz and not their rated 3000 Mhz, hence the underperformance on RAM part. Also, your Seagate drive failed the 1st run. Is it a hybrid drive (SSHD) or do you have RAMdisk in use?
Other components: GPU, Samsung drive and WD drive, seem to be working without issues.

Are you still experiencing boot up issues (e.g need to manually select SSD each time from BIOS) and USB issues (USB devices not working) besides the RAM speed issue?

As far as RAM goes, run memtest86 and look if you get any errors. 3 passes should be enough,
link: https://www.memtest86.com/download.htm

And here's info how to set it up (read under "Creating a MemTest86 boot disk in Windows" -> "Create a bootable USB Flash drive:"),
link: https://www.memtest86.com/technical.htm
 

Only time i am experiencing boot issues is when i try to get my ram to hit it's clock speed
 


Only passed one test with a frozen black screen on the second. Does not run at advertised settings with 15 16 16 35 @1.35v timings.
 
I'm afraid that you damaged your RAM with your 3333 Mhz OC on top of already OC'd 3000 Mhz. It's a miracle that your RAM still works at 2133 Mhz.

Any RAM speed that is faster than JEDEC standard of 2133 Mhz is considered as RAM OC. Since RAM dimms are quite stable and can be OCd, manufacturers include XMP (eXtreme Memory Profile) so that users don't have to manually try out different speeds, timings and voltage to find the stable settings at highest speed.

Since you manually OC'd your RAM over the 3000 Mhz what was achieved by manufacturer, warranty is voided on your RAM and you can't RMA it in hopes of getting a replacement. Actually, same is with CPUs and GPUs as well. While you can OC them but if they happen to die due to your OC, warranty won't cover it.

If you need faster RAM than 3000 Mhz then buy the RAM kit that's either rated for 3200 Mhz or 3600 Mhz. Depending on your MoBo and if all you care is fastest possible RAM speed, you can go for 4266 Mhz or even 4700 Mhz RAM. But don't OC your already OCd RAM. For one, it's not worth it since extra OC shortens the RAM lifespan considerably and for two, gain from extra 300 Mhz is so small that you can't tell a difference.

At this point, i suggest that you start testing your RAM since it's clear that your 4x DIMMs together doesn't want to work at 3000 Mhz anymore. It is possible that one of your 4 DIMMs is bad and it holds everyone else back. But to know which one is bad or if all of them are bad, you'll need to test each RAM DIMM individually and also alternate the slots for complete picture.
E.g like so:
DIMM 1 in 1st slot, all other slots empty - memtest86 test - yes/no for errors,
DIMM 1 in 2nd slot, all other slots empty - memtest86 test - yes/no for errors,
DIMM 1 in 3rd slot, all other slots empty - memtest86 test - yes/no for errors,
DIMM 1 in 4th slot, all other slots empty - memtest86 test - yes/no for errors,

Once the one DIMM is tested, the same procedure begins again with 2nd DIMM. You need to test all 4 of your RAM DIMM like so. Not to confuse RAM DIMMs, it's easier when you label them (e.g with sticky notes). While this testing is very tedious and time consuming, it's only way to confirm RAM issues with MoBo. Same test is used to determinate if a RAM slot on MoBo is bad.

Oh, here's the in-depth tutorial of memtest86 with pics (forgot to give you this earlier),
link: https://www.techsupportforum.com/21777-how-to-perform-a-memtest86-test-2/

Of course, easy way out would be buying a new RAM kit but with this, you'll never know if all your current 4x RAM DIMMs are bad or not. Then again, there's no telling for how long your damaged RAM would last.
 

What is the fastest ram that a 6600k can run without any issues? For a stable system where parts are not holding the other back. If that makes any sense to you.
 
Fastest RAM your Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 6 MoBo can run is 3466 Mhz,
MoBo specs: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-Z170X-Gaming-6-rev-10#sp

E.g Corsair CMD16GX4M4B3400C16,
specs: https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/Categories/Products/Memory/DOMINATOR%C2%AE-PLATINUM-16GB-%284-x-4GB%29-DDR4-DRAM-3400MHz-C16-Memory-Kit-%E2%80%94-Limited-Edition-Orange/p/CMD16GX4M4B3400C16
which is just one example taken from your MoBo memory QVL list,
QVL: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-Z170X-Gaming-6-rev-10#support-doc

Though, it isn't much point to go with faster than 3000 Mhz or 3200 Mhz RAM. Reason why,
youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk

With my i5-6600K, i'm using 4x 4GB Kingston HyperX Savage 3000 Mhz (HX430C15SB2K2/8) RAM DIMMs and my Skylake build works without issues. Here's my UserBenchmark run too if you're interested in it,
link: http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/8749818
 


Nice setup but wonder what memory it would take to get gaming to 100% or above
 


Can not use XMP OC for CPU does not post , possible reason. From BIOS will not post but I can get a 4.1 GHz from Gigabyte app in windows.
 


I stuck in the original Memory that i installed on this build. Corsair and all is fine , now onto my next question. Where can i find a compatible set of 32 GB 3200 MHz memory that will run stable on my Gigabyte 170x Gaming 6 motherboard? My preferred company of memory from here on out is corsair.
 
To get the gaming stat 100% or above, you don't need faster RAM but instead better GPU, e.g GTX 1070 Ti. Here's one random run where he has gaming stat 110% with GTX 1070 Ti,
link: http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/9382529

Gaming
3D Gaming and graphics.

This formula is weighted towards GPU performance:
25%*GCPU Bench + 50%*GPU Bench + 15%*SSD Bench + 10%*HDD Bench
(GCPU Bench† = 30% Single core, 60% Quad core, 10% Multi core)
†For games that can't use multiple cores the desktop CPU Bench is a better indicator of performance.

source: http://www.userbenchmark.com/Faq/What-are-the-UBM-performance-classifications/93

Only RAM DIMMS have XMP. To OC CPU, you need to do it either manually from BIOS or use 3rd party program (your Gigabyte app). Though, i'd avoid all 3rd party programs and do all OC directly from BIOS. Mainly because 3rd party apps can create conflicts between CPU OC and RAM XMP because those will override all changes you made within BIOS. For example, i uninstalled MSI Command Center because when i tried to OC my CPU, my RAM was stuck at 2133 Mhz and no matter what i did from MSI Command Center, i couldn't get my RAM running at 3000 Mhz. With MSI Command Center gone, i was able to set my RAM to 3000 Mhz without issues and also OC my CPU to 4.1 Ghz, all within BIOS.

As far as finding the correct RAM goes, here you have 2 choices:
1. Look from memory QVL list to know which RAM DIMMs are confirmed to work with your MoBo and in all 4 slots.
2. Disregard memory QVL list and go with any Corsair 32GB 3200 Mhz RAM kit with higher chance of all of it not working in your MoBo.

For 1st option, Corsair Vengeance LPX, 2x 8GB (CMK16GX4M2B3000C15) times two, will get you 32GB but with speeds of 3000 Mhz,
specs: https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE%C2%AE-LPX-16GB-%282x8GB%29-DDR4-DRAM-3000MHz-C15-Memory-Kit---Black/p/CMK16GX4M2B3000C15
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/MYH48d,2skwrH,Ntp323,6ntWGX/
 
Solution
 

For temp monitor, i use 2 programs, so i can confirm temps between them:
Speccy (nice GUI and easy to use + has sys tray temp monitor feature),
link: https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download
HWinfo64 (a lot more detailed + has logging feature),
link: https://www.hwinfo.com/download.php

As far as CPU OC goes and as i already said, there is no XMP to OC CPU. Only XMP there is, is to OC RAM.
I went over your MoBo manual and there isn't any word in it to say that you need to enable XMP to OC CPU. Also, your BIOS doesn't have automatic CPU OC feature like my MSI MoBo has (called Game Boost). Though, what do you have in your Gigabyte App Center is EasyTune. EasyTune is the automatic CPU OC feature that OC's your CPU with one click.
Out of the three CPU OC methods: one click OC, OC from 3rd party app, OC from BIOS; that one click OC is the worst since each CPU has different OC tolerance and it can give you unstable CPU OC.

Best way (and in my opinion, only way to be used) to OC your CPU is by doing it manually within BIOS. Set the target multiplier while keeping BCLK frequency at 100 (usual value), adjust CPU Vcore voltage to sustain CPU OC and run Prime95 to confirm that you have stable OC.
Further reading: https://www.techradar.com/how-to/computing/how-to-overclock-your-cpu-1306573