Question Bad stuttering in games with high consistent fps, no temps above 60c under load, no power issues (from what i can tell) and average cpu,gpu, ram usage

[mojaRx]

Like the title says, spent days now trying everything software related to help, computer is completely clean and been put back together twice. Have tried a clean reinstall of graphics drivers and windows itself, both from recovery settings and from a usb drive. Ive changed just about any setting that can be found and dozens of combinations of them. FPS is locked at 120 to match refresh rate and settings are at the bare minimum. The only part im able to swap out is the ram but doesnt seem like much of a hardware problem to me. The problem happens in pretty much every game ive tried except for lost ark and apex legends which only has a small one every 10-15 sec. Im at a loss, ive searched every issue i can come up with or find from digging in other forums but nothing really seems to fix it. However in some games like rust and the division 2, its not so bad if you just dont look around with your mouse, which i have also explored by trying a different mouse, different usb port, reinstalling drivers and letting windows install its own.

Would just like to get some direct input rather than trying to figure it out on my own before i start dumping money i dont have into new parts.

Games ive tried: The division 2, Rust, elden ring, lost ark, world war z, sea of thieves, apex legends (I can install others to try if need be.)

Sorry for confusion, heres a list of everything ive tried, will keep adding to it as i go along.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1DGg0u7JpFkQDSFX4Iih6hTpbU68iRfCeycZJOnPST_o/edit?usp=sharing

Specs:
rog b550-f, not the wifi version
EVGA 3080ti xc3
r9 5900x
Corsair vengeance lpx 32gb 3600mhz ram
wd black 500gb nvme ssd for windows, the games are on a seperate wd green and crucial mx500 sata ssds
thermaltake 850w power supply
coolermaster ML240L AIO
case is a corsair 4000d if it matters

 

[Darkbreeze]

Sorry forgot to add the list of stuff ive already done to the main post, bios version is the latest, 3404 (unless theyve updated again in the last few weeks). Same goes for chipset drivers and the ones for audio/network.
Have done the drivers for my keyboard but razer didnt want to make it easy for my mouse, Ive got the non-wifi version of my motherboard so no bluetooth, the driver installer wont let you continue without bluetooth 4.0 enabled.

Also meant to add that replacing the thermal paste on the cpu again, which was done only about 3 or 4 months ago, and remounting the cooler a couple times to get the pressure right made a huge difference, runs pretty good for about 20-30mins and it goes back to feeling sluggish with micro-stutters every 10-15 seconds or so. Thats why I was going on about this probably mediocre AIO starting to give out. Jumps up to 70c+ wayyyy faster than it should in a loading screen (Division 2 and rust in most of this context) as well.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1DGg0u7JpFkQDSFX4Iih6hTpbU68iRfCeycZJOnPST_o/edit?usp=sharing

What is the exact model of your memory kit?

Which DIMM slots, exactly, are they installed in?

Can you post a screenshot of both the memory and SPD tabs in CPU-Z, making sure to post two screenshots of the SPD tab so we can see the population of each DIMMs specs by selecting each populated slot in the drop down menu on that tab.

How to PROPERLY post images on the Tom's hardware forum​

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[mojaRx]

What is the exact model of your memory kit?

Which DIMM slots, exactly, are they installed in?

Can you post a screenshot of both the memory and SPD tabs in CPU-Z, making sure to post two screenshots of the SPD tab so we can see the population of each DIMMs specs by selecting each populated slot in the drop down menu on that tab.

Corsair vengeance lpx 3600 cl18, 2x16 and theyre in slot 2 and 4.
Let me also add that tabbing out of the game makes it run flawlessly.

https://imgur.com/a/ftLX3qC

 

[Darkbreeze]

Well, one thing I can notice right away that deviates from your memory profile is the tRC timing. If you look at the actual configuration that it's running at on the Memory tab, you'll see that your Bank Cycle Time (tRC) is configured for 84 clocks. If you look at the XMP 3600 (3596) profile configuration it is SUPPOSED to be 64 clocks. That may or may not be a problem but I'd probably recommend going into your advanced memory timings section and changing that timing manually to 64, then save settings and see if it will POST and if it will, whether it makes any difference in the problem you are seeing.

I don't know if that's just CPU-Z reporting it incorrectly or what, but you might want to verify by looking at that setting in the BIOS. Bank cycle time (tRC) is SUPPOSED to be tRAS + tRP, which both show as they are supposed to be per the XMP profile. tRAS is set to 42 clocks while tRP is set to 22 clocks. That means together they are 64 clocks which is what the tRC is SUPPOSED to be at per the profile specifications, not 84. This MIGHT be important because tRC set too high improves stability but it negatively affects performance, which could certainly result in issues with some types of stuttering.

I know you mentioned "micro stuttering" but it would be helpful to know exactly WHAT the behavior is that you are seeing because generally speaking, micro stuttering and stuttering are not the same thing and can have similar or different causes and effects. Often it is a matter of an imperfect sync between frame delivery and refresh rate, but that can also be tearing which again is something entirely different and I'm sure not what you are experiencing. Unfortunately there are moderately different opinions on what micro stuttering and stuttering consist of but the bottom line is that whatever you call a thing, it is best resolved by knowing what the actual behavior you are seeing is, and I don't think that's actually been decisively clarified in this thread yet unless I missed it.

Also, your memory kit isn't model "Vengeance LPX 3600 cl18", but it IS CMK32GX4M2D3600C18. That is the actual model of your kit. And it does show as compatible for your motherboard on the Corsair memory finder utility, so that is a good thing but it also increases the concern over why the tRC timing isn't right. It might be that the board itself is changing it as it's having a problem with the correct timing, but that's hugely weird because it's almost always going to be identical to tRAS + rRP so again, it might be getting misreported in CPU-Z but I've not seen that happen before.

Aside from that I don't see any memory related reasons that stick out why it would be having problems. The correct memory capacity is being recognized. The correct speed. The voltage and the rest of the timings appear to be correct.

Run HWinfo (Sensors only) and take a screenshot of the memory section. Post that here. And check your BIOS to see if tRC is actually set to 84.

 

[mojaRx]

Well, one thing I can notice right away that deviates from your memory profile is the tRC timing. If you look at the actual configuration that it's running at on the Memory tab, you'll see that your Bank Cycle Time (tRC) is configured for 84 clocks. If you look at the XMP 3600 (3596) profile configuration it is SUPPOSED to be 64 clocks. That may or may not be a problem but I'd probably recommend going into your advanced memory timings section and changing that timing manually to 64, then save settings and see if it will POST and if it will, whether it makes any difference in the problem you are seeing.

I don't know if that's just CPU-Z reporting it incorrectly or what, but you might want to verify by looking at that setting in the BIOS. Bank cycle time (tRC) is SUPPOSED to be tRAS + tRP, which both show as they are supposed to be per the XMP profile. tRAS is set to 42 clocks while tRP is set to 22 clocks. That means together they are 64 clocks which is what the tRC is SUPPOSED to be at per the profile specifications, not 84. This MIGHT be important because tRC set too high improves stability but it negatively affects performance, which could certainly result in issues with some types of stuttering.

I know you mentioned "micro stuttering" but it would be helpful to know exactly WHAT the behavior is that you are seeing because generally speaking, micro stuttering and stuttering are not the same thing and can have similar or different causes and effects. Often it is a matter of an imperfect sync between frame delivery and refresh rate, but that can also be tearing which again is something entirely different and I'm sure not what you are experiencing. Unfortunately there are moderately different opinions on what micro stuttering and stuttering consist of but the bottom line is that whatever you call a thing, it is best resolved by knowing what the actual behavior you are seeing is, and I don't think that's actually been decisively clarified in this thread yet unless I missed it.

Also, your memory kit isn't model "Vengeance LPX 3600 cl18", but it IS CMK32GX4M2D3600C18. That is the actual model of your kit. And it does show as compatible for your motherboard on the Corsair memory finder utility, so that is a good thing but it also increases the concern over why the tRC timing isn't right. It might be that the board itself is changing it as it's having a problem with the correct timing, but that's hugely weird because it's almost always going to be identical to tRAS + rRP so again, it might be getting misreported in CPU-Z but I've not seen that happen before.

Aside from that I don't see any memory related reasons that stick out why it would be having problems. The correct memory capacity is being recognized. The correct speed. The voltage and the rest of the timings appear to be correct.

Run HWinfo (Sensors only) and take a screenshot of the memory section. Post that here. And check your BIOS to see if tRC is actually set to 84.

It was in fact set to 84 in bios, set it manually to 64 and it booted no issues. Usually takes about 15-30mins for the stuttering to start.

Sorry about not being clear on that, at first its micro stuttering a bit worse than it should be normally, then after that 15-30mins it turns into full blown stutters every 5-10 seconds to where i cant play competitive games at all. All while feeling like its just barely over 60fps when its running a consistent 120. It's not really a consistent cause as far as I can tell, it'll run well enough to play and dip randomly. Have also noticed that my cpu temp randomly jumps up to 75c or more only when tabbed out, then within a few seconds is back down to 60-64 when tabbing back into a game.

edit: Well the good news is changing tRC from 84 to 64 has stopped the bigger stutters from happening, but it still starts to feel sluggish after a while, seems to me like it happens as soon as the cpu hits 60c. Tabbing out and letting it drop then tabbing back in fixes it until it goes back up. Unsure if thats coincidence or not. The best way i can describe it is, feels like 65-70fps but its at a consistent 120.

shows up as 64 in both cpu-z and hwinfo now.

https://imgur.com/a/h4XxYQ4

 

[Darkbreeze]

Well, some progress is better than none for sure.

I have a few additional ideas, but first I think it would be a good idea to open HWinfo and leave it running. Then play your game, whatever game on whichever drive you see the most of the problem using. After you start seeing the problem, let it happen and just keep playing normally for another five or ten minutes. Then close out your game and take screenshots of ALL the HWinfo sensors. You will probably need to scroll down a few times between screenshots to capture all the sensors, and then post them here.

Also, if you use the "direct link" option in Imgur after uploading an image you can then click on the picture icon above which is this one:

Then you can actually utilize those images directly on this page without having to click away and visit the imgur gallery. It's fine either way, but that's the correct way to do it rather than inserting it as a gallery or media content. But if it's easier for you that way then it's fine too.

 

[mojaRx]

Well, some progress is better than none for sure.

I have a few additional ideas, but first I think it would be a good idea to open HWinfo and leave it running. Then play your game, whatever game on whichever drive you see the most of the problem using. After you start seeing the problem, let it happen and just keep playing normally for another five or ten minutes. Then close out your game and take screenshots of ALL the HWinfo sensors. You will probably need to scroll down a few times between screenshots to capture all the sensors, and then post them here.

Did exactly as you said, opened the division 2, played for 25mins until it started and then played through it for another 15, closed it and took screenshots. Ambient temp was good in my room to start with today so it took a bit longer than usual. Off topic though, I didnt have an exhaust fan for a good while when i first got my computer (long story), you think that couldve been long enough to damage something on my motherboard since there isnt an air cooler for the cpu to move air away from it?

opened hwinfo when i opened the game as well so it doesnt include idle readings

 

[Darkbreeze]

No, see, that's where you messed up. You can't "close it" and expect to get relevant screenshots. It has to remain open. Do it again but this time time the screenshots while it is still running and hopefully, still having problems. That way we get relevant information. The minute you close it, everything changes.

 

[mojaRx]

No, see, that's where you messed up. You can't "close it" and expect to get relevant screenshots. It has to remain open. Do it again but this time time the screenshots while it is still running and hopefully, still having problems. That way we get relevant information. The minute you close it, everything changes.

Then close out your game and take screenshots of ALL the HWinfo sensors.

Sorry, will have to give me a bit then gotta finish this last bit of work and i can do it again

 

[Darkbreeze]

At your leisure bro. I'll have a little time to look at things over the next few days so whenever you have time and I see an update, I'll take a look. Just got done with a very LONG process of creating a new Windows 11 clean install tutorial, which was a MAJOR PITA to do, so I'm in no hurry to be in any hurry. LOL.

In case it's helpful.

How To - Windows 11 clean install tutorial

Windows 11 Clean install tutorial This tutorial is intended to help you, step by step, to perform a clean install of Windows 11, version 23H2 or newer but can be equally applied to earlier versions which may have some basic differences in the screens you see but will largely remain similar in...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Aeacus]

HWinfo64 sensors mode also has logging feature that is useful,
small guide: https://leo-holanda.github.io/logcharts.io/guide.html

I haven't personally tested it nor looked what kind of data it records and afterwards outputs, when one puts the recorded log file (*.CSV) into LogCharts, to generate line graphs.

 

[mojaRx]

At your leisure bro. I'll have a little time to look at things over the next few days so whenever you have time and I see an update, I'll take a look. Just got done with a very LONG process of creating a new Windows 11 clean install tutorial, which was a MAJOR PITA to do, so I'm in no hurry to be in any hurry. LOL.

In case it's helpful.

How To - Windows 11 clean install tutorial

Windows 11 Clean install tutorial This tutorial is intended to help you, step by step, to perform a clean install of Windows 11, version 23H2 or newer but can be equally applied to earlier versions which may have some basic differences in the screens you see but will largely remain similar in...

forums.tomshardware.com

Heres the updated pics, same process except I explicitly did not close the game this time when taking the screenshots. Temps are a bit better since ive got my window open while its ~38F outside. Noticed it is actually starting to dip down to 110-113fps every few seconds as well, and it starts to happen at almost exactly 30-35mins of the game being opened.

I can try a clean clean install of windows 11 tomorrow though, everything i have is still on my other ssds except for the 2 games im using as tests so its not a big deal at all.
That guide is looking great though, cant see someone messing it up too bad with that good of instructions lmfao

This is in the division 2 again

 

[Darkbreeze]

Man, I'm just not seeing anything there that looks out of place at all. Even the controller on your NVME drive is within spec.

 

[mojaRx]

Man, I'm just not seeing anything there that looks out of place at all. Even the controller on your NVME drive is within spec.

Thats what brought me here to begin with, im lost on whats wrong, my best guess still is something on the motherboard not getting enough cooling.

If i play the division 2 for that 30-35mins for it to start lagging, then switch to rust right after, which normally runs pretty well now, it starts to run just as bad. Wait an hour and come back and rust runs fine again. Im likely just going to take the risk and replace the motherboard, can find one of these b550f's on sale for as low as 125. Go ahead and get better fans as well, these stock corsair ones i really dont think are cutting it, had to sacrifice one of the front intake ones to put in the back for exhaust too, gotta love that corsair gives one short lol.

One more off topic question as well, would you recommend the arctic LF 240 or should i go for something else? Planning to switch to something a little cleaner (mainly no lights) as soon as i can. Also should i stick with a b550f or would a x570 be viable too?

 

[Darkbreeze]

I wouldn't go with a 240mm AIO with that CPU. Sure, it will "work" but it's probably not the greatest choice for that configuration especially if you want to keep noise levels reasonable. It will saturate much more quickly and will sustain a higher temp than the 280 would. I'd prefer to see something like the Liquid freezer II 280mm or 320mm in there. Or one of the high end air coolers.

As far as the board goes, there's nothing wrong with the B550 boards, but the X570 and X570s boards are generally a bit more robust and typically have somewhat better VRM configurations especially if you go with something mid range or higher. Not so much necessarily on the entry level X boards. This might be a good option if you really want to replace the board and being honest, I've actually come across a number of people who've had issues with that B550-F board and they were all issues that couldn't be figured out but that were resolved by replacement. There might be something to that, but I think I'd probably do the cooler first although I'm not against the idea that if you're going to have to go through the trouble, then maybe just do it all at once.


The Taichi would be far better, but it's also about 100 dollars more. Getting hard to even FIND any boards right now, especially those that aren't among the current generation of X670/670e, Z790, etc.

PCPartPicker Part List

Motherboard: ASRock X570 Steel Legend ATX AM4 Motherboard ($134.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $134.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-23 14:07 EST-0500


But if you want to stick with B550 yet go with something different, I might give this a try as it's a very decent board. I might have to overlook MSI's sketchy moral compass somewhat in order to benefit from a board of this level at this price.

PCPartPicker Part List

Motherboard: MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $159.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-23 14:09 EST-0500

 

[mojaRx]

I wouldn't go with a 240mm AIO with that CPU. Sure, it will "work" but it's probably not the greatest choice for that configuration especially if you want to keep noise levels reasonable. It will saturate much more quickly and will sustain a higher temp than the 280 would. I'd prefer to see something like the Liquid freezer II 280mm or 320mm in there. Or one of the high end air coolers.

As far as the board goes, there's nothing wrong with the B550 boards, but the X570 and X570s boards are generally a bit more robust and typically have somewhat better VRM configurations especially if you go with something mid range or higher. Not so much necessarily on the entry level X boards. This might be a good option if you really want to replace the board and being honest, I've actually come across a number of people who've had issues with that B550-F board and they were all issues that couldn't be figured out but that were resolved by replacement. There might be something to that, but I think I'd probably do the cooler first although I'm not against the idea that if you're going to have to go through the trouble, then maybe just do it all at once.


The Taichi would be far better, but it's also about 100 dollars more. Getting hard to even FIND any boards right now, especially those that aren't among the current generation of X670/670e, Z790, etc.

PCPartPicker Part List

Motherboard: ASRock X570 Steel Legend ATX AM4 Motherboard ($134.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $134.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-23 14:07 EST-0500


But if you want to stick with B550 yet go with something different, I might give this a try as it's a very decent board. I might have to overlook MSI's sketchy moral compass somewhat in order to benefit from a board of this level at this price.

PCPartPicker Part List

Motherboard: MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $159.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-23 14:09 EST-0500

Fitting a 280 up top in the 4000d airflow is a bit rough without low profile ram, while which i dont mind replacing but i just got the other 2x16 to have 64gb total lol. I would have to get some measurements first to see if it'll fit, especially since an x570 is most definitely going to be even bigger than this current b550f. I've had no issues with a 240 and the 5900x so far. I can do up to a 360 in the front but I personally much prefer doing it up top and keep the 3 intake fans up front. If i can find a good deal on a bigger case at the micro center thats an hour or two away then im for sure just getting a beefy 360mm radiator. Definitely just going to switch to an x570 if it comes down to it though, the original b550f i got for this build i had to RMA because it came bricked so its not making me too confident in it not being the motherboard.

I wonder though, its rare but still possible for the fins on the copper plate to get gunked up with bacteria when the anti bacterial agent wasn't enough. Ive heard of it happening a few times with cooler master AIOs. I have no clue if the problem had been slowly happening, I dont pay attention to temps or do any benchmarks really. Would explain why the pump seems to still be running fine as well.

At this point absolutely anything wouldn't surprise me, this problem is just so bizarre.

Seriously though, thank you so much for helping out even though this issue took so much time to pinpoint, at least got rid of the stutters so ive been able to play some games so i cant complain at all. You'll always have a favor from me anytime.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I wonder though, its rare but still possible for the fins on the copper plate to get gunked up with bacteria when the anti bacterial agent wasn't enough. Ive heard of it happening a few times with cooler master AIOs. I have no clue if the problem had been slowly happening, I dont pay attention to temps or do any benchmarks really. Would explain why the pump seems to still be running fine as well.

It's not rare. It literally happens to EVER AIO ever made, at some point, so long as it lasts long enough for it to happen. Generally, about 3-5 years, give or take. There is nothing they can put in the loop that won't have a negative effect on cooling that can stop bacterial growth forever. Granted, a lot of AIO coolers never make it long enough for that to happen because they experience cavitation or pump failure before then, or more rarely these days, leaks, but in general if it lasts a few years it's going to turn into a terrarium.

Just my opinion, however, it's generally much preferred by most people and favored in most comparative reviews, at least for CPU temps, to put the AIO in front so that it is able to take advantage of the cooler outside ambient air rather than the already heated internal air, so long as you are able to install it with the hoses at the bottom rather than the top. Hoses at top of radiator is sure early death.

Also, I've seen dozens and dozens of builds using the 4000d airflow, and have worked in it myself, twice, where a 280 or 320mm AIO was up top and even with the Corsair Maglev fans that seem to be chunkier than other fans despite Corsair saying they are only 25mm thick, I've not seen any interference issues with many different types of memory. And your Corsair Vengeance LPX sticks are literally shorter than basically ANY other aftermarket memory equipped with heatsinks at only 34mm tall. By comparison, I did a Liquid freezer II 280 in the top of the 4000D airflow using Ripjaws IV sticks that were 40mm tall and I've seen other builds with 360mm AIO in them using Trident Z that are 45mm. Not trying to convince you to do anything, at all, just saying that if it is something you are interested in you might want to take another look at that and maybe some measurements.

Also, not sure where you got the idea that X570 would be any different in size than the B550, but they are both the exact same dimensions of 30.5cm x 24.4cm which is the standard dimensions of any ATX motherboard. Now, micro ATX and mini ITX would of course be smaller and E-ATX, which doesn't technically HAVE an industry standard size and can be somewhat different between models, are all different sizes than ATX but if it's ATX it basically MUST be a specific size or very close to it. The X570 Steel legend, X570 Crosshair VIII Hero, B550-F and B550 Tomahawk are ALL the exact same size, as should be all modern ATX motherboards.

 

[mojaRx]

It's not rare. It literally happens to EVER AIO ever made, at some point, so long as it lasts long enough for it to happen. Generally, about 3-5 years, give or take. There is nothing they can put in the loop that won't have a negative effect on cooling that can stop bacterial growth forever. Granted, a lot of AIO coolers never make it long enough for that to happen because they experience cavitation or pump failure before then, or more rarely these days, leaks, but in general if it lasts a few years it's going to turn into a terrarium.

Just my opinion, however, it's generally much preferred by most people and favored in most comparative reviews, at least for CPU temps, to put the AIO in front so that it is able to take advantage of the cooler outside ambient air rather than the already heated internal air, so long as you are able to install it with the hoses at the bottom rather than the top. Hoses at top of radiator is sure early death.

Also, I've seen dozens and dozens of builds using the 4000d airflow, and have worked in it myself, twice, where a 280 or 320mm AIO was up top and even with the Corsair Maglev fans that seem to be chunkier than other fans despite Corsair saying they are only 25mm thick, I've not seen any interference issues with many different types of memory. And your Corsair Vengeance LPX sticks are literally shorter than basically ANY other aftermarket memory equipped with heatsinks at only 34mm tall. By comparison, I did a Liquid freezer II 280 in the top of the 4000D airflow using Ripjaws IV sticks that were 40mm tall and I've seen other builds with 360mm AIO in them using Trident Z that are 45mm. Not trying to convince you to do anything, at all, just saying that if it is something you are interested in you might want to take another look at that and maybe some measurements.

Also, not sure where you got the idea that X570 would be any different in size than the B550, but they are both the exact same dimensions of 30.5cm x 24.4cm which is the standard dimensions of any ATX motherboard. Now, micro ATX and mini ITX would of course be smaller and E-ATX, which doesn't technically HAVE an industry standard size and can be somewhat different between models, are all different sizes than ATX but if it's ATX it basically MUST be a specific size or very close to it. The X570 Steel legend, X570 Crosshair VIII Hero, B550-F and B550 Tomahawk are ALL the exact same size, as should be all modern ATX motherboards.

Was *mildly* intoxicated that night i wrote all of that haha. Better, not bigger sorry. Will have 2 gen 4 m2 slots instead of one g3 and one g4 like on the b550f i have now.

Genuinely did not notice that the ram i have now is in fact low profile until i went to put in the other 2x16 kit today though, can easily fit a 320 up top which is what im going to end up doing. My cpu temps up until recently were perfect so Im just going to keep the radiator up top as an intake and the 3 fans in the front also intake for the gpu.

It's not rare. It literally happens to EVER AIO ever made, at some point, so long as it lasts long enough for it to happen. Generally, about 3-5 years, give or take.

Also meant in hardly a year, as mine is just over a year old if not just under so it’s a bit on the odd side. This pump is starting to slowly go down in rpm even though it’s set to 100% all the time.

Merry christmas though man, hope you had a great day and stay safe.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Was *mildly* intoxicated that night i wrote all of that haha. Better, not bigger sorry. Will have 2 gen 4 m2 slots instead of one g3 and one g4 like on the b550f i have now.

Genuinely did not notice that the ram i have now is in fact low profile until i went to put in the other 2x16 kit today though, can easily fit a 320 up top which is what im going to end up doing. My cpu temps up until recently were perfect so Im just going to keep the radiator up top as an intake and the 3 fans in the front also intake for the gpu.


Also meant in hardly a year, as mine is just over a year old if not just under so it’s a bit on the odd side. This pump is starting to slowly go down in rpm even though it’s set to 100% all the time.

Merry christmas though man, hope you had a great day and stay safe.

Um, no. Not sure where you're looking for instructions or recommendations on how to configure cooling systems, but let me make it very clear for you. Radiators of ANY kind, whether it's an AIO or a custom open loop, that are installed in the TOP of a case, need always to be EXHAUST, not intake. And plainly, for all but a very small handful of niche configurations such as some oddball miniITX configurations, regardless of whether it is an air cooled system or a liquid cooled system, ANY fan that is installed in the front, side or bottom of a case should be in an intake orientation.

Any fan, whether it's a case fan or it's on a radiator, that is installed in the top of a case or in the rear of a case, should ALWAYS be configured as an exhaust fan. That does not ever change, again, except MAYBE with a couple of very space challenged ITX type cases. There's not even a valid reasoning for putting anything that is installed in the top of a case as an intake on any tower style case. For one thing, you're creating a situation where you've got front intake blowing in, top blowing in and no damn place for anything to go and no, it cannot get out the back where you have a single exhaust fan in most cases nor out any holes or gaps in the case itself, so you end up just basically doing nothing.

Secondly, and probably the more important consideration, ALL of the heat inside ANY and ALL cases tends to naturally gravitate to the top due to the stack effect. So when you try to run a top mounted fan as an intake, the ONLY thing you are going to succeed in doing besides putting unnecessary stress on those fans and the front intake fans by creating an ungodly amount of static pressure inside the case, is blowing all that heat back down directly on your components. If you have your front fans, whether they are just case fans or are on a radiator, and your top fans, whether they are just case fans or on a radiator, ALL configured as intake, it is zero wonder you have cooling problems.

This, is how every microATX, mid tower ATX and full tower ATX air path should be configured, not including cases like the Lian Li 011 dynamic that has it's intake fans on the side instead, and like I said, a couple of very niche space constricted miniITX cases.

Even IF you had the top as an intake, and the front as an exhaust, it would still be back asswards.

Please take a picture of the inside of your case currently and post it here, showing exactly how your front, top and rear fan locations are populated and oriented. Especially important is the current configuration of your AIO. Is it in front or on top? If it is in front, is the radiator installed so that the hoses are running to the top or bottom of the radiator. Because radiators installed to where the hoses are running to the top of the radiator can absolutely cause premature failure.

 

[boju]

Old houses had high ceilings, ya know why? Heat rises. Put your hand anywhere near bottom of your case and it'll be colder. You drag that air in first.

 

[Raikiri]

It was in fact set to 84 in bios, set it manually to 64 and it booted no issues. Usually takes about 15-30mins for the stuttering to start.

Sorry about not being clear on that, at first its micro stuttering a bit worse than it should be normally, then after that 15-30mins it turns into full blown stutters every 5-10 seconds to where i cant play competitive games at all. All while feeling like its just barely over 60fps when its running a consistent 120. It's not really a consistent cause as far as I can tell, it'll run well enough to play and dip randomly. Have also noticed that my cpu temp randomly jumps up to 75c or more only when tabbed out, then within a few seconds is back down to 60-64 when tabbing back into a game.

edit: Well the good news is changing tRC from 84 to 64 has stopped the bigger stutters from happening, but it still starts to feel sluggish after a while, seems to me like it happens as soon as the cpu hits 60c. Tabbing out and letting it drop then tabbing back in fixes it until it goes back up. Unsure if thats coincidence or not. The best way i can describe it is, feels like 65-70fps but its at a consistent 120.

shows up as 64 in both cpu-z and hwinfo now.

https://imgur.com/a/h4XxYQ4

Hey, I have pretty much the same problem thanks to you I changed tRC and it improved a lot. My pc is:

Asus X570 Croshair Hero Non-Wifi
Asus Strix OC 3090
Ryzen 5900x
32GB Trident z neo ram with 2 pairs of F4-3600C16D-16GTZNC
Corsair 4000x Case with H100x 240 cooler

I play Apex capped at 220 with 280hz monitor and it feels like 40 fps even tho it's pretty much locked at 220. It even gets worse over time when shooting and looting again the fps is at 220.

Have you find anything else to fix this problem? I'm certain audio is related to this problem because lowering it helps a little I think and it cuts off some sounds when other sounds are present.

I also had 5600x with Gigabyte B550 Aorus Elite and some other ram and the problem was completely non-existent at first but would become even worse after a few matches.

I must add my dogshit MSI laptop that overheats all thetime with Intel processor played better than any of AMD trash.